tjenkins

Honestly?<P>I'd stick with the factory numbers/types of gaskets/rubber o-rings. I don't know why you're getting rock solid readings now. Could the wx be a bit cooler?<P>As I understand it, in a closed loop system, the thermostat is closed - and allows no water bypass at this stage. Optimally, the temperature would need to hover at 195 for emissions etc. Manually 'holeing' it, or, in effect, installing a lower cooling t-stat would certainly effect a lower cooler temp, and no doubt would ***PROBABLY*** not affect the engine operation that much, I can't sit still and let this go. First order of business for me is to R/R the waterpump, then ask a local expert etc etc.<P>However, we'll have to await summer here for my results - I expect to 'tear' into it then, when it warms up a bit. Hard to get mine off the 12 oclock position when it's 35 outside <P>--Tom

Wally,<P>Great article - and we all look forward to future postings and updates.<P>A thought - Is the format what people want? Perhaps some feedback on site/page structure would be appreciated.<P>I know that we broke the brake article up into 5-6 areas - does this work for most folks?<P>Just thinking out loud - how could we make it better, more productive and conducive toward providing accurate and quality advice and recommendations?<P>--Tom

Actualy, we'd prefer you folks use the current web site at:<BR> <A HREF="http://www.reatta.net" TARGET=_blank>www.reatta.net</A> <P>And, thanks 'ronvb' for reminding me to ammend the old earthlink link!<P>--Tom

As an aside comment, if you decide to R/R the pump/pressure switch, please obtain the large 'crowfoot' tool. Barney had explained this in some detail on here a few posts back.<P>Also, PLEASE make sure you BLEED THE SYSTEM BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE accumulator. And, read the instructions in the service manual for this, as it explains it laymans terms etc.<P>My $.02 worth.<P>--Tom

That reminds me... In the 3 years that the Reatta FAQ site has been up, I've had maybe 3-4 queries regarding WebTV and it's limitations.<P>I've often thought about breaking up the FAQ into sections... However, honestly speaking, I was beginning to wonder if it was really that topical. After all, the discussions here on this board are more up to date, dynamic and interactive.<P>If you have an opinion, I'd really like to hear them. Please email me at:<P> tjenkins@vdoefx.com<P><BR> tjenkins@vdoefx.com <P>--Tom

tcams76.... Please pass on the Pep Boys part number!!!<P>--Tom

For wiring questions etc on the 90/91, be sure to check <A HREF="http://www.reatta.net/faq.html" TARGET=_blank>www.reatta.net/faq.html</A> and look under cd players. Thanks to Greg Fell, we have a good idea of pinouts, locations etc.<P>--Tom

Wait!!!!!!!!!!!<P>I just did my passenger side on my 90, and I can't believe that the other years are different.<P> 1 - Open hood<BR> 2 - Remove fender/cowling strut/bar<BR> 3 - Remove battery<BR> 4 - Insert hand through round hole in front cowling wall<BR> 5 - Twist the bulb connector 1/4-1/2 turn to remove<BR> 6 - Twist turn signal bulb body to remove<BR> 7 - Reverse to install new bulb<P>The drivers side doesn't look that hard either, since there is a hole there as well. You may need to remove the windshield washer container though...<P>Let us know how it turns out.<P>--Tom<p>[ 11-01-2001: Message edited by: tjenkins ]

I wish you the greatest of luck. I never did find out what was causing my '90 to creep as well. Fix was either tearing the engine apart looking for a blocked passage, or, moving to PA in October.<P>I opted for the latter - BRRRRRRRRRR!<P>--Tom

Thanks for the plug, "Drive it like I stole it", but the shorter URL is simply:<BR> <A HREF="http://www.reatta.net" TARGET=_blank>www.reatta.net</A> <P> <P>--Tom

!!!doh!!!<P>After a 'case of the dummies', I actually noticed that there is another fuse panel on the DRIVER's side, vice the passenger's side.<P>Thanks again Barney!<P>--Tom

As of 6PM EST today, the server IP number have changed, however, it may take a few hours (+/-) to propagate around the 'net.<P>Please let me know if you have any more problems.<P>--Tom<P>tjenkins@vdoefx.com

Could someone please confirm the location (and size) of the cigarette lighter fuse???<P>Thanks!<P>--Tom

No, no, no... We're currently moving the page(s) over to the new server.<P>Please be patient.<P>"The trouble with your set ..."<P>--Tom

This sparked a few brain cells.<P>Is there *ANY* way that we can change our oil filters WITHOUT spilling half the filter contents out over our hands???<P>--Tom

Yep - been there, done that, got the T-Shirt <P>I have spent numerous hours, funding and other resources, coupled with email between very knowledgeble folks, along with several learned professional mechanics on my "hotter than normal" 90 coupe (78K).<P>Bottom line? I've "turned up the radio".<P>As I'm sure you'll note in previous postings, I've tried just about everthing and have developed a theory of what this could be:<P>(remember - I've driven my car from 33K to 75K with the analog temp guage STRAIGHT UP all the time, and all of a sudden, it started moving toward the 1, 2 and 3PM positions) when warmed up.<P> 1) This is apparently normal for this type engine, temperature and internal cooling components, or,<P> 2) There is some internal blockage inside the water cooling orifices in the engine, or,<P> 3) There is another underlying cause that is not readily apparent.<P>I wish I had a cure-all here - but as Padgett points out in other posting(s), this particular engine/cooling combination apparently wasn't well matched. Witness the addition of two-speed serial/parallel fan circuit operation in 1990, that was an effort by Buick to increase the air flow that was not designed into the 1988 and 1989 cars.<P>Amazing. And, should you come across a fix, please let us all know!<P>--Tom

Extremely interesting and topical comments.<P>Several weeks ago, I immediately noticed a growling noise in the front end. Not really a grinding noise, but similar to what you would hear on the highway passing a 4x4 truck with snow tires.<P>My local shop (seems that shops that you can't eat off the floor are related to high quality of work indicated one of the wheel bearings. I asked him to change out both, just to be sure. Parts and labor were ~$400 or so, and for me, with "no crescent wrench hands", was worth it.<P>--Tom

Given copyright restrictions, or not, is there anyway that you folks could scan and post on the web some of the more interesting page(s)?<P>--Tom

Help!<P>I'm in need of the small "R" plastic hubcap insert. Please email me if you have one, or know where I could obtain one.<P>--Tom<P>tjenkins@vdoefx.com

Thanks for the plug Mike, but please note - this is an old site (which still works, but would prefer you all use this one <P> <A HREF="http://www.reatta.net" TARGET=_blank>www.reatta.net</A> <P>Please update your bookmarks accordingly. Thanks VERY much in advance!!!<P>--Tom

Please allow me to post a long (763K) TSB extract that might shed some light on this issue. Please note TSB 570501 at:<P><BR><A HREF="http://www.reatta.net/tsb/tsb_all" TARGET=_blank>http://www.reatta.net/tsb/tsb_all</A> <P>After it loads, search (CONTROL-F) on the keyword 570501.<P>--Tom<p>[ 08-31-2001: Message edited by: tjenkins ]

Padgett,<P>As you now know (with our many emails back and forth), I can read about Reatta cooling issues ALL DAY LONG and not get bored. I simply find it fascinating to learn more and more about these unique, yet demanding engineering marvels.<P>For me, yes - bring 'em on.<P>--Tom<P>(PS - anticipating moving from HI to PA, not sure if I want to again R/R Stant thermostat from 90C to 82C Winter is just around the corner, and will probaby need ALL the heat I can get.)

Outstanding.<P>I'll also need to draft up a letter to the above department, documenting my failed efforts to get the attention of my local dealer with regard to coolant issues.<P>Btw, I'd be most happy to post any document, anytime, regarding any Buick Reatta issue, bulletin, [full or portion thereof] any service manual extract on the <A HREF="http://www.reatta.net" TARGET=_blank>www.reatta.net</A> site (provided legally allowed to do so).<P>--Tom

Thanks, but already installed the factory nozzles at $30/pair (ttl $60).<P>I didn't realize that there were at least 3 each very tiny pinholes on each (4 total) nozzle!!! Mine had apparently plugged up some time ago.<P>Thanks!<P>--Tom

Brenda,<P>Was it evident that both motors had seized? Where they both not working AT ALL?<P>Just wonding - both of mine turn when the AC is on, albeit at slow factory speed (or appears to). Upon 109C, the fans go from low to high, and the temp drops accordingly.<P>--Tom