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tjenkins

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Everything posted by tjenkins

  1. In tracking down a temperature rise (after 30 minutes) problem for my 90 coupe, the dealer:<P>o Flushed the system with new coolant<BR>o Replaced the thermostat<BR>o Replaced the pressure cap<BR>o Replaced the coolant sensor<BR>o Exchanged the ECM, BCM, no change in symptoms<BR>o Checked and confirmed proper operation of both fans<P>The indications are that the first 30-40 minutes of highway or city driving is of normal temp. That is, the analog gauge reads straight up at 12 oclock. BCM data for coolant temperature, BD21, reads 90C (right at 195F) for this first half-hour.<P>After that, the gauge starts to creep up to 1, 2 and then 3 oclock, seemingly what would be a 'HOT' indication on the coolant.<P>The dealer has confirmed a normal 200F reading, even though the IPC analog gauge registers 2-3PM. The BD21 rises to 105C, then, 110C or so, but apparently does not match the high analog reading.<P>The dealer has all be eliminated everything up to the IPC with "Further, traced problem to IPC cluster assembly, TEMP gauge is faulty causing wrong higher temp reading."<P>Two issues:<P>1) Has anyone experienced this type of scenerio, and if so (or not), does it 'sound' right?<P>2) How much are these IPC's for the 90?<P>I'm going to remove it this weekend, and clean the back connector just to make sure...<P>Any other ideas?<P>--Tom
  2. As I'm sure someone will verify this, you may have experienced speaker 'cone' failure. Due to the age of these vehicles, the paper cone (and to some extent, the rubber surrounding the cone) actually deteriorates.<P>Over time, then, the paper breaks down, and since it doesn't move the air in/out in a uniform fashion, the sound then 'cracks'.<P>The solution if this is the case, is to either replace the speaker (OEM replacements for the fronts are, as I recall, some $40/each?), or have them reconed at a speaker repair shop.<P>You can probably replace the speakers your self - see <A HREF="http://www.reatta.net" TARGET=_blank>www.reatta.net</A> (speaker under the FAQ) for details.<P>--Tom
  3. tjenkins

    mud guards?

    Actually - yes I purchased both the white and black 'Buick' standard OEM flaps. They were, I recall, about $8 for a single pair ($16 for all 4 wheels). They came in a standard 'fit-all' kit, which included 3 pairs of varying length self-tapping screws and inserts.<P>After much deliberation, I decided against the drilling of holes and/or other means of mounting. I supposed I could have gotten some "RTV" or silicone glue to mate the rather hardened rubber within the wheel well, but I never got that far. It probably would have fallen off at the most inoportune time.<P>My 90 White coupe would have probably laughed at me on the white ones, so if I did mount them, they'd be the black ones.<P>I've still got all 8 of them in the trunk still in the original packaging!<P>What I keep looking at is the later model Honda 'form-fitting' flaps/guards on the Accura and Preludes, and still wonder if I could have adapted them to the Reatta. I have yet to come across someone on the road offering them for free though...<P>--Tom<p>[ 05-13-2001: Message edited by: tjenkins ]
  4. I've updated the colors section in the database and have included the latest database 08 Apr 01.<P>If the graphs are small or hard to read, let me know and I'll resize or rechart.<P>See <A HREF="http://www.reatta.net/database.html" TARGET=_blank>www.reatta.net/database.html</A> for details.<P>--Tom<BR>
  5. I've seen, and added, at least one pre-90 white/blue car on Oahu.<P>--Tom<BR>
  6. Ah, but you can get here from there <P>From the <A HREF="http://www.reatta.net" TARGET=_blank>www.reatta.net</A> page, simply click the rotating Reatta emblem in the top, middle part of the home page!<P>--Tom<BR>
  7. Joe, we are *ALL* wondering - exactly what did they do for the repair???<P>--Tom<BR>
  8. Thanks Peter for the quick reply.<P>Now, onto the original question - is there a way to restructure individual topics, such that when viewing, the *newest* articles appear at the TOP of the topic, vice the BOTTOM? If at the TOP, we won't have to scroll down to the end.<P>Or, is this not a big deal and I need to get a life?<P> <P>--Tom<BR>
  9. Peter,<P>Thank you, thank you, thank you for your continued support and upkeep of this valuable board. I *know* how much effort this takes <P>I for one, like the new color scheme you have inserted here. The colors seem to blend a bit easier on the eyes.<P>A recommendation - or perhaps it already exists - is there a way to view the most recent postings ON TOP of each discussion? As it is now, I have to drop down to the bottom of the web page to view the latest.<P>Just a thought.<P>--Tom<BR>
  10. Gads, I don't know...I don't recall any specific reference to an SUV affair.<P>What I would *love* to see is an aftermarket kit that would be inserted 'inside' the 90/91 are underneath the CD player. Not sure how/if the 88/89's are configured.<P>--Tom<BR>
  11. Has anyone tried this for the Reatta?<P> <A HREF="http://www.drinkholders.com/auto/index.htm" TARGET=_blank>http://www.drinkholders.com/auto/index.htm</A> <P><BR>Even after all these years - still have not found a 'do-all' cupholder, and in fact, still looking for a 91 blue arm rest (Reatta/Riviera) with cupholder <P>--Tom<BR>
  12. Ok, so if we smell the outside polluted air, we simply enable "AUTO" and "AUTO" and press the temp button to 60 degress?<P>--Tom<BR>
  13. tjenkins

    CD Player

    <A HREF="http://www.reatta.net/faq.html#CDPLAYERS" TARGET=_blank>http://www.reatta.net/faq.html#CDPLAYERS</A>
  14. Howard,<P>Please pass on the brand/part number of the headlamp assy's. Also, did they fit like OEM?<P>--Tom<BR>
  15. Additional Press Releases etc are now available at <A HREF="http://www.reatta.net" TARGET=_blank>www.reatta.net</A> (News, Arts, PRs section).<P>--Tom<BR>
  16. Stan, thanks for your eagle eye. I'll repair it now.<P>--Tom<BR>
  17. <A HREF="http://www.reatta.net/faq.html#TOUCHSCREEN" TARGET=_blank>http://www.reatta.net/faq.html#TOUCHSCREEN</A> <P>--Tom<BR>
  18. tjenkins

    headlight help

    <A HREF="http://www.reatta.net/headlight_repair.html" TARGET=_blank>http://www.reatta.net/headlight_repair.html</A> <P>--Tom<BR>
  19. Thanks ... found the answer in the replacement of the $7 part <P>--Tom<P><BR>
  20. tjenkins

    reatta pic

    Ken,<P>What is and where is the "buy and sell" section?<P>--Tom<P>
  21. Yep - the thermostat was indeed the problem. Changed it out, and it's rock solid at 12 noon!<P>Thanks to all for the help.<P>Btw, I'll be darned if I can figure out why Buick only used one bolt to hold the thermostat housing!<P>--Tom<BR>
  22. It appears that I have answered 1/2 of my question. With the AC off, or HEAT/VENT, the fans DO NOT COME ON. This would indicate that indeed, the problem may be in the thermostat area?<P>I'll purchase one from Napa today and install it. (Thanks Jim!)<P>--Tom<BR>
  23. Thanks... even if I change the thermostat though, that won't stop the fans from coming on upon engine startup.<P>Do your fans come on right away? Both of them?<P>--Tom<BR>
  24. Thanks VERY much for the above comments. Now, background and status as of this morning.<P>Background - 90 coupe bought in 97 with 33K miles, now with 71K. Ever since bought, the temp gauge would rise fairly quickly (10 minutes?) on highway speeds and stay right on at 12 oclock, regardless of the outside temp or AC (which I run all the time).<P>Every fall (November), I change the antifreeze with Prestone. I bring the car up to normal temp, stop it, open up the cock, drain the antifreeze, open up the pressure relief valve and pour in the Prestone flush cleaner (1 quart), run for 10 minutes at operating temp, flush entire system with water, refill with water, run up to warm, reflush again, and finally pour all the gallon antifreeze into the radiator, and fill the other half with water. Last week will have been the third time I've done this. And, yes, all three times I've turned on the heater to 90 degrees to ensure flush of the heater core as well.<P>Since I bought the car, I have not really checked the fans, but I could have sworn that they did NOT come on after startup, yet would turn when the temp was really hot outside (90 and up), so I can't tell if this is a normal condition for my car or not.<P>As far as I know there is a thermostat in place - I have not removed it, but I would *assume* that there is one, since the temp would rise quickly to 'normal' and stay there.<P>Again, the temperature seems to rise very slowly to the 10 and 11 oclock position and stay there, even after 40 minutes of driving.<P>Status as of today:<P>I understand that there are three relays in the Relay Center that control the fans from the ECM. I swapped out all three with the Horn Relay (, but no change. The fans still came on when the engine started. I then pulled relay "G" (actuates the puller fan) and the fan did NOT come on. This would indicate to me that there is not a relay problem. I checked the service manual, and it would appear that both relays operate in either series (slow speed) or parallel (high speed) depending on the ground signal from the ECM (for both fans). Pulling relay G, directly between the 12V power, fan and ECM, stops the fan. Doesn't that seem to point to the ECM?<P>I don't think there is an air bubble in the cooling system, as the antifreeze is full-up on the radiator, and between the full/add marks when hot on the expansion tank.<P>Nearly all of the time I run with the AUTO/AUTO setting on the temp control panel and let the computer do the rest. In the morning, I usually set it to 72 or so, yet in the afternoon, have to raise it up to 78 or 80 to achive a comfortable setting in the car. I do NOT run just the defrost setting.<P>The heater does work - there is hot air when I turn the control to 90.<P>Some questions<P>1) When YOU start your car, do(es) your fan(s) come on immediately?<P>2) If I do decide the swap out the thermostat, I note that its under a series of engine parts with only ONE bolt. Is this a challenge? Can someone email me as to the procedure? I would prefer to further troubleshoot before I tear into this <P>3) Would unplugging the battery, and consequently resetting the ECM help? Armed with the schematic, it would seem that the ECM is sending both fans a ground signal to turn on immedately. Is there a way to troubleshoot the ECM with a resultant code?<P>4) Can someone confirm that 1-Gallon of antifreeze, with the remainder water, is correct for this engine?<P>5) Does the temperature sensor affect the ECM setting, and thereby the fan operation? If it failed, wouldn't the gauge react accordingly and not read correctly? Does the ECM interpret the sensor reading to turn on the fan(s)?<P>(PS - I will try to turn off the AC this afternoon when it cools and check the fan operation).<P>Thanks in advance for all your help!<P>--Tom<BR>
  25. 90 coupe - last two years, after warming up in the first 15 minutes or so, the temp gauge would read straight up (in the middle).<P>Yearly antifreeze flush now causes the temp gauge to very slowly move up and takes over an hour to read straight up.<P>Noticed my two cooling fans come on immediately after starting, yet I was almost positive that they didn't before last week.<P>Does anyone have any ideas as to if the fans are supposed to come on (push/pull fan), or, if there is some common component causing this?<P>--Tom<BR>
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