tjenkins

Rita,<P>I can certainly sympathize with your plight. I too have spent many hours trying to ascertain the 'fault' in my vehicle.<P>For nearly three years, in hot Hawaii weather (for what that's worth , the temp guage would never ever get about 12 oclock.<P>One day at the car wash, the gauge slipped to 1, then 2PM. 4 months later, and the below check/replacements, no change. Although I have yet to tear-into the car, I still suspect that its either a weak water pump (not likely), or a small restriction in one of the coolant passages. Of course, to check that, would require a major tear-down of the engine.<P>My diagnosis? Turn up the radio. If you're really really worried about this, install a 180F Stant thermo. I did this, but returned to the 'factory' 195F for emissions and MPG's.<P>--Tom<P>(exerpt dated 17 June 2001)<P>Background:<P>1990 Buick Reatta, 3800 engine, bought in 1977 with 33K, presently 74K. Routinely flushed and changed the coolant with Prestone every year. Both puller and pusher fans operate all the time on AC (which is on all the time), and ECM/BCM combination is programmed to enable high- speed fans at 115C. Both fans are normally serially connected at 12V, then through the fan relay, are switched to parallel when temp exceeds 115C.<P>Over these last three years, my analog temperature gauge has quickly warmed up and has always pointed straight up at 12 oclock (9 bars, with 4 on the left, one straight up, and 4 on the right). The temp gauge has ALWAYS exhibited this straightup condition during times of cooler as well as hotter weather, either on the highway or in town.<P>I watch the instrument panel all the time.<P>Details:<P>Since 4 weeks ago, while at a stop light downtown after running for 45 minutes, the temp gauge climbed to 1, then, 2 oclock. Essentially a different temperature and I at first thought it was a temperature blockage inside the engine block.<P>I changed the existing thermostat (which I assumed was an OEM 90C/195F but cannot now confirm that) with an after market NAPA unit, but no change. Upon starting up in the morning to go to work, it quickly rises up to normal 12 oclock position, and stays there until 30 minutes later when I pull into the parking lot. However, in the afternoon, when the outside temperature is higher, upon arriving back home from both highway and city driving, the gauge reads 1 bar to the right at 1 oclock, then, 2 etc.<P>Entering in the on-board computer readout (ED04), the temp bounced from 88-93 or so during the first 30 minutes, then, in the afternoon going back home, the temp would rise to 95, 100, 105 and then, 109. Fans have not gone to high speed mode, since the temp didn't exceed 115.<P>This is/was a change in the normal operation for this particular car.<P>Brought into the dealer, and they:<P> R/R Radiator cap<BR> R/R coolant sensor<BR> R/R Thermostat (unsure brand)<BR> Checked/swapped the ECM and BCM computers<BR> Indicated to me that the Instrument Panel Cluster was bad (reading too high) <P>I bought a used IPC from PA and had them send it to me. I installed the IPC and it ready the exact same reading on the replacement.<P>Wanting to prove the coolant sensor/ECM/BCM/IPC combo were good, I went to Radio Shack and bought a 5K ohm potentiometer. Warming up the car, I removed the plug on the coolant sensor, and took several measurements, substituting the potentiometer for the coolant sensor. Readings confirmed factory settings and values:<P>DigitalTemp Ohms<BR> 85C 261<BR> 90C 233<BR> 95C 197<BR> 100C 168<BR> 105C 164<BR> 110C 126<P>Bar 'switch on analog gauge':<BR> 83C 12 oclock<BR> 99C 1 bar (1PM)<BR> 102C 2 bars (2PM)<BR> 105C 3 bars (3PM)<BR> 109C 4 bars (4PM) <P>It does appear that the coolant sensor to the IPC is good.<P>Thinking that the radiator was bad, or blocked, I then took it to a radiator shop for R/R (dealer wanted >$700, shop was $242. The original aluminum core radiator was not plugged, but it did have some cracks in the plastic tanks on the side. Good preventive maintenance I assume, but did not change the situation, so I looked at Stant's Premium non-linear thermostats. Armed with a premium 90C unit, the car quickly warms up to 95, then again, slowly climbed to 105 or so. Thinking that I still have a blockage problem, and desired to keep it near the 90C factory temp, I changed out the Stant 90C with a Stant 82C unit.<P>Now, the unit warms to 83-88 or so, and in the wam afternoon, rises to 109 in town without moving. Getting back on the highway, the temperature gradually lowers to ~88-93C.<P>The question remains - why is the temperature differential STILL 15C in warm weather?<P>If Buick designed the car this way (to rise slowly) why did my car exhibit solid temp readings?<P>Do all cars warm to 110C in warm weather?<P>--Tom

We have attempted to start the addition of a diagnostics section at <A HREF="http://www.reatta.net/diagnostics.html" TARGET=_blank>www.reatta.net/diagnostics.html</A>.<P>Initial entries include Diagnostic Entry and ALDL codes.<P>If you have any suggestions, comments, or wish to contribute in any way toward this effort, please email me at tjenkins@vdoefx.com <P>Although we certainly don't recommend a scan of the Service Manual for posting, diagnostic information contained therein would be most beneficial for the entire group. Perhaps someone could figure out how to convert the Flow-Chart to a simple text document?<P>Thanks!<P>--Tom<p>[ 07-14-2002: Message edited by: tjenkins ]

Excellent. Thanks!<P>--Tom

Hello Matthew...<P>Could you please pass on the VIN?<P>Thanks!<P>--Tom

Cisse...<P>Thanks very much for the catch. I'll ensure Barney updates for the distinction.<P>Also, appreciate the Belgium hit. Will modify the countif statement.<P>--Tom

Gomer...<P>Send your pix to me at:<P>tjenkins@vdoefx.com<P>And I'll post 'em on the <A HREF="http://www.reatta.net" TARGET=_blank>www.reatta.net</A> site for you.<P>--Tom

Gomer,<P>Which "user car" page(s) are you referring to?<P>--Tom

You may find some at:<BR> <A HREF="http://www.reatta.net/newspaper.html" TARGET=_blank>http://www.reatta.net/newspaper.html</A> <P>--Tom

NO2diver... the above numbers are ONLY from the existing DB he has collected. We've (yet) no way of obtaining DMV information to substantiate the counts.<P>At best, it's a guess at the sampling numbers, but again, the more VIN/data we collect, the more higher the quality.<P>--Tom

Concur. I'll post Reatta pix for anyone.<P>What I would prefer (or will convert upon receipt) is a 400 pixel wide graphic. I then post that, along with a smaller 100 pixel wide 'thumbnail' on the web site.<P>These images, while certainly not life size, are small enough for most of our users that are still on dial-up will be able to download rather quickly, as well as minimize my available HD space here <P>Again, send 'em to me at:<P> tjenkins@vdoefx.com<P>--Tom

Just in case someone asks... a quick (and more accurate) "countif" statement on a worksheet produces the following numbers (sorted high to low):<P>State Count<BR>MI 342<BR>FL 259<BR>CA 211<BR>OH 183<BR>TX 173<BR>IL 153<BR>PA 109<BR>AZ 104<BR>NY 103<BR>MA 77<BR>NJ 72<BR>MN 70<BR>MD 69<BR>VA 66<BR>WI 58<BR>IN 52<BR>NC 50<BR>MO 48<BR>TN 48<BR>GA 47<BR>WA 47<BR>CT 42<BR>CO 33<BR>IA 29<BR>SC 29<BR>KS 28<BR>OK 28<BR>KY 25<BR>OR 23<BR>AL 22<BR>LA 16<BR>DE 12<BR>NE 12<BR>MS 11<BR>AR 10<BR>HI 10<BR>NH 10<BR>NV 10<BR>ID 8<BR>WV 8<BR>NM 7<BR>DC 6<BR>SD 5<BR>RI 4<BR>UT 4<BR>ME 3<BR>MT 3<BR>ND 2<BR>AK 1<BR>AS 1<BR>VT 1<P>Unkn 510<P>CAN 19<BR>CN 5<BR>CP 1<BR>France 1<BR>Germany 1<BR>Holland 1<BR>Netherlands 2<BR>Ontario 7

Barney,<P>I've snagged the particulars of this vehicle and will provide in the next "Ebay VIN" update to you.<P>--Tom

While we do not yet have all the Reatta's listed on the data/faq page (www.reatta.net), it would be an easy exercise to obtain a small sampling of locational data from the existing database.<P>Go to the database area of the above web site, and either search on " FL " in the text version, or download and sort via Excel.<P>A quick survey provides some 259 out of 2801 state listed vehicles (30 May 02 database) from Florida. This equates to roughly 9.2%, although 343 (12.2%) appear to be from/in Michigan.<P>Interesting.<P>Of course it follows - more VIN's, more data, larger database, higher accuracy.<P>Have you sent it your VIN to Barney yet?<P>Please help us help you. If you see a Reatta on the road, perhaps you could garner the VIN, exterior/interior/moulding color, conv color, CD/Sunroof/16 way seats etc.<P>Just a thought.<P>--Tom

Just a reminder... if you need to view the audio wiring schematic for 90/91's, compliments Greg Fell...<BR> <A HREF="http://www.reatta.net/faq.html#CDPLAYERS" TARGET=_blank>http://www.reatta.net/faq.html#CDPLAYERS</A> <P>--Tom

I need to rehost the <A HREF="http://www.reatta.net" TARGET=_blank>www.reatta.net</A> domain on another server. If anyone has any problems accessing it, please let me know.<P>--Tom

Have you tried reseating the square connector in the back of the IPC?<P>Basically, you'd remove the IPC panel bezel, then remove and replace the IPC. In doing so, you'll refresh the connections on the back of the IPC panel.<P>This, of course, assumes that everything else is working electronically.<P>--Tom

I found that reading the appropriate section of the manual helps understand the function, and clearing of, the historical codes.<P>Do you have a manual? Mine is in storage, otherwise, I'd help.<P>I've always wanted to upload a set of 'codes' to the <A HREF="http://www.reatta.net" TARGET=_blank>www.reatta.net</A> website. If only someone were to send me a text email... <P>--Tom

Doug,<P>We all await the 'snagging' of the above VIN <P>--Tom

Amazing... simply amazing.<P>It's no wonder why we've been on this rock for >50K years, and really not learned anything <P>--Tom

Does anyone know the dealer book price on this item?<P>--Tom

EDBSO... did you want us to provide you inputs via email that incorporates all the changes, recommendations and updates etc?<P>Or, would you prefer to take all the above, and formulate an update?<P>--Tom

Barney,<P>Couldn't we, as a learned group, author a brake flush instruction? Really - some of the folks on here appear to be auto engineers, and others obviously have an extensive background in many related areas.<P>I know and understand the potential scenerio of the legal responsibility, as well as the propensity to go after someone when they might provide faulty 'advice'.<P>But, if we preface the article/instruction with the appropriate "Use at your own risk..." etc, or other like caption, wouldn't we benefit our ranks?<P>In my mind, generating a solid, easy to understand and use, document that outlines the brake flush operation, in step by step manner, that is done on a routine basis, may be the key to proper brake operation. Who knows, it might also be a potential life saver?<P>Don't want to step on toes here but just a thought....<P>--Tom

If splicing in the CD-Player, you may need to refer to the cable diagram at:<BR> <A HREF="http://www.reatta.net/faq.html#CDPLAYERS" TARGET=_blank>http://www.reatta.net/faq.html#CDPLAYERS</A> <P>--Tom

Short [first] recommendation - your accumulator. R/R with normal hand tools.<P>Btw, ENSURE you RELIEVE THE BRAKE PRESSURE FIRST as outlined in the manual!!!<P>Cost: ~$100 +/- 20%.<P>--Tom

Appreciate the offer on Earmuff's, but I've got another idea. How about purchasing the WIDE tape and inserting another Reatta hubcap insert? That way, it could/would complement the Reatta Tape Dispenser.<P>Whadya think?<P>--Tom