tjenkins

As a point of reference, my 'no-horn' issue, wasn't the relay, nor buttons, but the small spring-loaded contact inside the steering wheel column. Note from an earlier post: ""it is a system GM has been using for 50 years." Then, in my humble opinion, GM needs to refine it's engineering. Today, I installed two new (from GMPARTSDIRECT) horn buttons. They were of the third design, with four posts and no 'fishing line'. Quite stable really. No problems with the removal of the SIR, and/or replacement of both buttons, however, after reinstallation, the horns STILL DID NOT WORK. Going to the front, I removed the horn relay, and confirmed that +12V was at the connector, and enabled the horns. The issue then, became the loss of a ground from the steering wheel to the relay assy. Back in the car, I noticed that my "dual wire with spring" was out of it's hole. I read the above, and confirmed that there indeed was a small raised 'nub' on the black plastic housing surrounding the spring affair. Closer examination proved that the white plastic 'detent' (inside the steering wheel hole) had broken off, and no amount of inserting and turning 1/4 turn was going to secure it. Faced with a complete dissasembly of the steering column, one idea was to superglue the spring assy into the hole. This would permanently affix the parts, but would negate a future replacement. I then recalled that I had a few door stops with rubber ends/bushings. I snagged one, drilled it out 1/4", and used that to insert the black spring assy, then pressure fit the rubber stop into the hole. Seems to work fine - will advise if it doesn't. Bottom line - again for my money, this is also not a well-throught out idea, and compliments the poor workmanship on the button design! --Tom"

Go here: Diagnostics --Tom

Does anyone have experience with replacing the oil pan gasket and *not* the main seal? Is the gasket that hard to do? --Tom

90 Reatta, 3800. --Tom

Could someone comment on a potential $300-500 job to remove and replace the "main seal", plus a new oil pan gasket? I would not mind tackling the oil pan gasket, but is the seal that hard a job to do? Any special parts, jigs, tools etc? Also, is there a procedure in the FSM for this? --Tom

How on earth could a 'never-titled' vehicle have 13,000 miles on it????? --Tom

"it is a system GM has been using for 50 years." Then, in my humble opinion, GM needs to refine it's engineering. Today, I installed two new (from GMPARTSDIRECT) horn buttons. They were of the third design, with four posts and no 'fishing line'. Quite stable really. No problems with the removal of the SIR, and/or replacement of both buttons, however, after reinstallation, the horns STILL DID NOT WORK. Going to the front, I removed the horn relay, and confirmed that +12V was at the connector, and enabled the horns. The issue then, became the loss of a ground from the steering wheel to the relay assy. Back in the car, I noticed that my "dual wire with spring" was out of it's hole. I read the above, and confirmed that there indeed was a small raised 'nub' on the black plastic housing surrounding the spring affair. Closer examination proved that the white plastic 'detent' (inside the steering wheel hole) had broken off, and no amount of inserting and turning 1/4 turn was going to secure it. Faced with a complete dissasembly of the steering column, one idea was to superglue the spring assy into the hole. This would permanently affix the parts, but would negate a future replacement. I then recalled that I had a few door stops with rubber ends/bushings. I snagged one, drilled it out 1/4", and used that to insert the black spring assy, then pressure fit the rubber stop into the hole. Seems to work fine - will advise if it doesn't. Bottom line - again for my money, this is also not a well-throught out idea, and compliments the poor workmanship on the button design! --Tom

Checklist HERE --Tom

Thanks to D. Takas, Reatta icons are now posted at: Software Icons Enjoy! --Tom

The reatta.net database (that Barney Eaton updates) has been changed to offer the Excel version only. Text versions did not output correctly. Links to viewers (and alternatives to the Micosofot Office Suite) are also available on reatta.net. reatta.net database Also, when viewing this page, MAKE SURE YOU REFRESH YOUR BROWSER FOR THE LATEST VERSION! Please email thoughts, comments etc. --Tom

Title says it all. Fram SD1 I bought one, thinking that it would 'make my day'. Yeah, right. With very little (I thought) effort, I was able to 'wrench' half of the screw threads on the brass fitting. The original drain plug is now back in the engine. Does anyone have instructions for torque values for this after market device? --Tom

Yes, in fact I've already pulled the 'heat sink', and sprayed both simple green and lysol inside, followed by a lot of water. The core didn't look that dirty, but we'll see. Had to take the brace off to get to the back screw though. Have it drying out now... and will advise in a day or two. I wonder if I should remove the top air intake screens and do the same thing there (but without the water)? Thanks ALL! --Tom

I've noticed an ever increasing "old sock" smell to the AC. I understand that Lysol is a good, albeit temporary, deterent. Where are the intake vents for the AC to spray this into? --Tom

Ah, yes the "FAQ" In actually, this and the database that Barney has nurtured from the beginning, was what initially started 'reatta.net'. I've rec'd several emails over the past year or so that tend to indicate that there is some (renewed?) interest in updating the FAQ section. In fact, I had one email that outlined an expanded idea, based on particular sections and areas of the car. Great idea, we just never followed up on it. Why? The original thought was to keep, in some form of history, those areas that keep coming up. Peter ran (and runs) the board here, and while it does provide an effective means for 'discussion', it doesn't lend itself well toward a means to an end regarding the desired "symptom and abatement" program. For that matter, niether does the FAQ area on reatta.net. To group like-functionality into one page is simple enough, yet after a period of time, several serious issues arrise. Do you keep the latest postings and discard the earlier ones? Do you paraphrase the posting and potentially loose some vital information? Do you quote a particular issue/remedy, only to find that it doesn't work on other vehicles? Where do you draw the line at a particular area? This is certainly a challenge... Of note, you may notice that the 'interim' FAQ page is now gone, and clicking on the FAQ link directs you straight to the page(s). Btw, I would certainly post whatever the group desires, or wishes, concerning a certain direction taken on the structure. It's just a matter of putting collective heads together for a collaborative, tangible, yet effective and efficient end result. Thoughts? --Tom

Posted: Cupholder Picture Here

Ok, we need drawings, exact construction materials, MSDS's, environmental studies... On second thought - how about an additional close up or two? --Tom

No problem - email me what you want added... reatta@reatta.net --Tom

Thanks Greg. Ok: 1) Where exactly are they located, and how to 'find' them. 2) How to tell if any, or all, are deteriorated, or, non-functional. 3) How to replace 4) Where is the best source (cheapest) for quality parts. --Tom

Could someone point me in the right direction with regard to subject issue? I've looked in the manual, but can't find a 'writeup' on how to check/change etc. --Tom

An observation. My personal quest to achieve a smooth idle has apparently come to a successful conclusion. The bottom line is CHECK AND CLEAN (or replace) the IAC! Over the last six months, I've been stabbing at the problem. Have replaced spark plugs, plug wires, coil pack, air filter, along with several cans of 'fuel injector cleaner'. I even had a repair shop suggest that I need $600 worth of engine mounts. Taking advice from the board here, I finally ordered up a spare MAF assembly that contained a used IAC. Upon disassembly of the spare unit, I noticed that the pintle valve was extremely gummed up and coated with carbon buildup. I quickly returned with a can of spray carburetor cleaner and soaked and rubbed the valve clean. Today, I removed my original, and it too was extremely carboned up, yet was unable to properly clean the unit. In fact, after extensive cleaning, the original pintle end appeared to be pitted or uneven at the end of the unit. It was impossible to effectively achieve a symmetrical round tapered surface that was smooth to the touch. Ten minutes later with the replacement IAC valve, and a clean-out of the cavity, the idle is where it should be, does not 'clunk' in and out of gear, does not shake the car at stop-signs, and in general, appears to be a smoother rider even up from idle. So, the bottom line is this: IT IS WELL WORTH THE $5 IN CLEANER, and 10 MINUTES! --Tom (PS, don't forget that the two each mounting screws/bolts are small, and could get dropped. I used a rag underneath the entire assembly just in case)

Available at? --Tom

Wally... we already did: http://www.reatta.net/faq/checklist.html --Tom

Not only are the illustrations in the above linked article purposely omited, there already exists highly detailed ABS information specific to the Reatta in the Field Service Manual for all years. I would strongly suggest anyone wishing to delve into this area first aquire an FSM. --Tom

Yes, runs fine - anything above idle seems to be very smooth. Changed the plugs 6 months ago - Delco at factory setting. Btw, the idle is rough, and I can feel it (sometimes a small vibration, sometimes really noticable vibration) in the brake pedal when depressed at a stop sign etc. --Tom

Had them cleaned several months ago - same problem. The idle isn't non-steady - just rough. --Tom