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BulldogDriver

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Everything posted by BulldogDriver

  1. Jim, Mine is an AC car. Yes there was foil faced fiberglass as stated. Was thin and I can’t imagine it did a lot. I’m sure the dynamat will be more effective in heat reduction. Don’t remember any extra jute but if it was factory, then it was there. Everything in my interior was original. My objective is to bring as much up to modern standards but keep the look as original as possible. As with most GM production, things changed during year. I’m working with Clarks now with seat covers that are different from the normal 63 production. They are a 63 pattern but appear to be assembled like 64/65 covers. The padding is sewn directly to the covers. Ray
  2. Contact RivCat and see if he still has the drivers seat assembly. He might be able to send you whole assembly minus the frame. Ray
  3. Also pulled all of the original seam sealant out and put new sealant down. Also sealed all of the oval cover plates. One tube was enough. Agree with Tom. Only Dynamat and what Clarks has on the sewn carpets. Ray
  4. Same here. I covered all of the floorboards after spraying new paint everywhere. No rust, SoCal car with factory undercoating. Photos attached.
  5. Not hard to do. Just went through mine and it cleared up the problem. 3000 miles cross country with my knees up against the dash was no fun. Ray
  6. If that is the case, then who is Car’s source for the mats? Ray
  7. I don't see that as a problem in my case. Everything else is so light that I thought the contrast would be good. Their lighter color “LS” was too bright for my taste. If you can hold off for a week, I should be able to give you an idea of what it will look like. Finishing up on Dynamatting the floorboards. I’ll throw the carpets and a seat that has just been recovered back in. All from Clarks. Ray
  8. Jim, Im in the process of replacing my Saddle carpet. Clarks doesn’t have a direct placement. Attached are the 3 closest colors they have available and a swatch of mine below their samples. My swatch was taken from i place not exposed to light. The middle one is lighter then the original carpet. I decided to go with the darker one. I have a Sandalwood deluxe interior. Ray
  9. I had concerns with the quality of mounts available for our cars today. I found this link in my search for mounts and that is what I used with a polyurethane transmission mount. The owner had to look for these mounts as he hadn’t had any interest in them in quite awhile. If I remember correctly he still had one more set. These should not fail, they are a locking design. https://polybushings.com/pages/2219.html Ray
  10. Don't forget to remove the transmission cooler lines. Ray
  11. If this was my car I’d check all the engine/trans mounts, make sure that the fan assembly is installed as per original, shroud is mounted properly before cutting the shroud. What good would that do if you later found out that the shroud was ok and some other part of the system was not right? Probably be buying the parts to fix the original problem and a new shroud. While installing a 4L60e transmission, I had to check all of this because the alignment of the trans mount was different then the original Dynaflow and it did have an effect on the shroud mount. I ended having to use shims between the shroud and radiator mounts. My 2 cents. Ray
  12. A good reference for Riviera wiring is on eBay by Classiccarwiring. They have laminated diagrams for all Gen 1 Rivieras and show where the wiring originated from. FYI, they do not show all options that could be installed on your car, nor do they show the wiring installed for options that are not in use. Between the laminated diagram and the one in the factory service manual, I was able to trace all of the circuits in my car and verify a sound wiring harness with good connections. Ray
  13. Agree with your observation. If the OP goes to VintageAir’s website under the ‘Builders’ area, you can download a copy of the Installation manual and it includes wiring diagrams. Should be 3 wires if a Magnum 4 series, 1 red to Positive and 2 white to Negative. There should not be any other wires that are not going to the evaporator or compressor. Ray
  14. James at BestOfferCounts should be able to take care of this. Ray
  15. Thanks James for filling a supply void that truly needed filling! My order is in for a full veneer set. Ray
  16. They were still doing the trays when I got everything “interior” from them in November. Get extra vinyl if you are going to match the side pieces going between the rear seats and side panels. I’m going to do the panel between both rear seats also. Shipping was pretty steep, enough that I made a 3 day trip, stopping at BestOfferCounts in PA for parts, Clarks in MA, and then up to Maine for a bunch of lobsters. Still cheaper than having all the parts shipped, other than the lobsters! Ray
  17. From my recent observations the only wood panel kits available are for 65 cars now. The other sources have gone away. If anyone knows of a current source for 63 and 64, please let us know. Ray
  18. I had Clarks do “everything” interior for my 63 back in November. They no longer have a source for wood panels, but I was able to get everything else from them. The one thing that I had to send to them was my sun visors, they were the longer ones that they don't have a replacement for and the originals had to be recovered. Another observation was that my carpet and rear window tray colors weren’t available either so they had to be substituted. Ray
  19. 3/4” both ends https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dac-80418 they also make one that steps down from 3/4” on short 90* end to 5/8” on the long end Ray
  20. http://www.oldbuickparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_405_407&products_id=7194 As the original ones. Count the number of holes. You will need more than one set.
  21. https://www.inlinetube.com/products/inl15253 1955-81 GM Transmission Cooler Line Rubber Clamp Insulators 2pc SKU:INL15253
  22. I bought these recently. Will get you their source shortly. Ray
  23. Oops your right! You said December and I was thinking December 1963. Mine has Cruise, Cornering lights, Wonderbar AM, Tilt wheel, wire hubcaps on 6” wide rims. Also is a factory undercoated car from California. Console is sitting on the side as I’m finishing up on upgrades being done. Radio was changed out because the Vintage Air AC took up too much space to fit back in. Its the only thing that keeps the interior from looking original. Ray
  24. Winston are you sure about the resistance wire stopping at the firewall? The wire coming from the ignition switch was the same color code and cover material looked to be the same. Just saying as in my case it doesn't matter now. My ignition system is aftermarket electronic now and doesn’t use resistance wire. What I need to do is make sure that the power is not interrupted when you start the engine. What I’m trying to verify is that Voltage is still applied to the gauge cluster when in the ‘Start’ position is what I’m looking for. I’ve added a multipurpose gauge and want to make sure it and the other electronics have constant voltage between ‘On’ and ‘Start’ so I can finish wiring. Ray
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