TTR
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Posts posted by TTR
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Not that there’s anything wrong with any of them, but I’ve often wondered how many people realize Model A’s, Tri-Five Chevy’s, Mustang’s, et al* were the Camry’s, Civic’s, Sentra’s, etc of their time, nothing more, nothing less.
*including my PB 😉
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13 minutes ago, 36humpback said:
Thanks for everyone's help. This is what I wound up with. Bob
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👍
Looks pretty good, but don't forget to check it after first few drives and then, periodically.
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I’ve done them with “European Straight Lacing” (and tucking the knot + ends under the laces) or coiling tightly with bailing/lock wire.
Both have worked just fine.It’s not like it’s meant to be air tight or hold spaceship in orbit.
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1 hour ago, 60FlatTop said:
Develop a sequence of basic troubleshooting steps that you are comfortable with. Use it every time. Never deviate.
Which for most in today's world appears to mean running to a computer and posting on (presumably) relevant forum something like “I suspect there’s something wrong with my car/engine/whatever. What do you guys think the problem is and how do I fix it ?”
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"Why are so many changing to Edelbrock Carburetors?"
Hmmm, since I obviously don't know each and every individuals reason for doing it, here's some of my guesses:
- Marketing ! Just like with most other everyday decision making in consumerism, advertising/marketing (a.k.a. brainwashing) is very, very strong influencer on lot of it.
- Secondly (and as importantly as above), like Mr. "carbking" and others have noted, most people, including many so-called professional restorers, etc, let alone hobbyist, don't really know what a good carburetor rebuilding requires or what properly working one actually means. Most seem to think that dunking into or spraying it with some solvent and replacing a few caskets is a "rebuild", kind of like so many consider car having been freshly painted, upholstered and with a new set of white wall tires being "completely" or "fully" restored.
And like someone mentioned, replacing an old, perhaps previously badly mistreated, precision instrument with something new and shiny, which may appear working better or just enough can seem like an easy solution.
While I'm also a lifelong "(vintage) Hot Rod" guy, I find it quite funny (and very sad) whenever I see some of their ("Hot Rod") engines loaded with multiple carburetors and every chromed or polished bling trinket available at their favorite print or online catalog. Yet so many of these "show off" things rarely seem to work very well.
OTOH, if it makes their owners happy or proud and helps to keep their "mechanic" employed, who am I to question ?
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23 hours ago, Steve Braverman said:
I went to TSC to look at the Ingersoll Rand compressors. They have a huge decal on them the says, "Made in USA," and in smaller type, "from global components." The pump is made in India. My old compressor is a Saylor-Beall. I looked it up, and it's a $3-4k unit new. Now I'm undecided between buying a new tank and restoring my old compressor, or just buying the new one. In all fairness, the new IR will probably last me forever.
Thank you Mr. B., for taking time with the follow up on this topic, including discovery and revealing some sad realities related to manufacturing/marketing claims and the pause(?) they gave you.
Seems like you're on the path to informed/intelligent decision making. Good luck with whichever you reach. 👍
P.S. As a side note, my first compressor which I bought from an estate sale of a friends FIL over 30 years ago was a used, probably 40-50(?) y.o. (at the time) smaller 2-stage (originally 15-17 CFM ?) IR that looked like it had always been stored outdoors and if I recall correctly, in fact behind my friends FILs a small body shop.
I also bought a tool box full of old body work tool + other equipment, all for full, but reasonable asking price (IIRC, compressor was "valued" by the estate at around $300.-).
Anyway, I hauled the compressor (along with everything else) to my newly established (restoration) shop, cleaned + fully serviced it (& made a few small upgrades) and put it to work, which it did well for following 20+ years, until less than 10 years ago, I unexpectedly saw a year old (=like new), bigger/stronger, 2-stage IR (24 CFM) combo displayed for sale in front of some shop that was closing 1/2-mile down the street from me. They were asking $1400.-, I offered $1000.- (in cash) which they promptly accepted (later research and paperwork they gave me revealed a price of new one was around $4500.-).
After basic service of the new one and switching it to use, I rolled the old one to the curb with a "For Sale" sign (incl. $750.- price) on it and sold it couple of hours later to someone driving by. He offered and paid $650.- after we rolled it back to my shop and plugged it in for proof of its working condition.
I don't really expect having to buy another one for the shop for the rest of my life, but have been on the lookout for one to put in (or behind) the garage at home, especially now after my wife retired and I turned part of it into her arts/crafts/gardening shop (she just hosted a miniature mosaics/tiling craft party last Saturday and all her friends were allegedly envious of the work space I had recently created and equipped for her).
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Looks like a fairly reasonable package for home/hobbyist use (+ IR has some experience building compressors and at least claim this one being US made 👍).
Only other thing I would check (since there’s no mention of it) is the RPM it’s designed/intended to run at, i.e. +/-1750 or +/-3450.
For variety of reasons, slower RPM would be preferable.I’ve been thinking of getting one for our garage at home and might look into one of these.
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While I've ran into this peculiarity on more than one (LH drive) pre-war car and after confirming everything else being aligned, correct and/or undamaged, I've never researched/studied its root cause.
Can't recall if all were same, as in RH turn smaller than LH, or other way around.
Never seen it in post-war cars.
🤔
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10 hours ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:
I thought it is CFM.
Ben
You’re absolutely right Ben. 👍
Too much Tequila, Whiskey and Wine, not to mention a great Cigar …
… and couple of Wheat Beers tonight for this old cowboy ?
Fixed now.
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P.S. To determine whether an air compressor is adequate for expected performance, let's say using it for a media blasting or power tools, look for its output, i.e. CFM rating (not “GPM” rating, as I initially posted under significant influence of adult beverages).
Depending on type of equipment, materials and operating pressure (60-90+ psi ?), media blasting usually requires at least 15+ CFM compressor output, but to play it safe, I would recommend 17+ CFM, as most hobbyist will likely not need much more. Most air tools use about 12-15 CFM (@90 psi).
One can have the largest tank in the world, but if the air pump (= compressor) cannot keep up, maintain or surpass extended usage, the tank (= reservoir) pressure will eventually become low or even empty during use and then, depending on the air pumps output, it might take a long time refill it back to useful pressure again.
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15 hours ago, Andy J said:
"Don't think for a minute you'll remember how everything goes back together."
That is a lesson I learned the very hard way.I don't care how easy or simple something seems,take pictures,more pictures,then some more pictures before you tear into the thing.
+100%
After countless of cars (many of them same/similar to each other) I’ve restored or worked during past 40+ years, I still photo document all of it on daily bases with numerous before, during & after shots, yet I still periodically come across something that wasn’t adequately captured.
Photo documentation of my last “complete” restoration accumulated +/-15000 images.
Just a properly documented engine rebuild can easily produce hundreds of photos. I’m currently doing 3 along with 2 automatic and 1 manual transmission from 1950’s, a complete 1956 (American luxury car) chassis rebuild/restoration (decisions on body & interior still to be determined), metal and paint repairs + some suspension corrections on a 50 year old V12 Ferrari (3 more identical cars on the waiting list for various smaller repairs and services) and all are and/or will be thoroughly photo documented.
As for the “wisdom”(?), although it applies to just about everything in life, my first signature line is something I realized decades ago when initially cutting my teeth in vintage car repairs & restoration and it has been my mantra ever since.
Another ways to look at it could or should be like this:
”Do you know exactly what, why and how it does whatever it’s intended to do ? If not, might be best you don’t attempt to fix it” (Sorry about more than 20 words).
… or …
as “Inspector H. Callahan” so aptly observed ”Man’s got to know his limitations”.
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First, the size of the tank or HP rating are not important or intelligent considerations when looking to buy or upgrade an air compressor.
They’re merely marketing gimmicks to hoodwink consumers, just like with many other consumer products, including cars.How many new car buyers are enamored by and excitedly recite (higher ?) HP numbers of their vehicle, without even understanding what, if anything, it actually does or means for them in practice.
Second, OP indicates the “tank rotted trough”, but makes no mention of condition or size of the air compressor itself or the motor, which, especially the pump, are more important part of the entire equation than the tank.
If these “over 50 years old” components are in reasonably good condition and serviceable, depending on their brand and construction, their overall quality might be far better than anything new (Chinisium crap) one can buy for less than $3000-$4000, so another option is to service the pump + the motor and just replace the tank (& remember to drain it more frequently to prevent rotting).
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OK, I had hoped my original message/request was clear enough, but apparently not, so I apologize for that and try to make it more so.
- I don’t have a broken or malfunctioning steering gear and therefor no immediate need of someone to rebuild any.
- I’m not looking to find which different manufacturers at various eras (other than mid-to-late 1930s) used a Gemmer gears.
- I’m hoping/trying to find someone who is well acquainted and familiar with Gemmer gears used in "mid-to-late 1930s "and differences between them.
- I’m familiar with John C. I had him rebuild a steering gear for a clients L-29 several years ago. I didn’t think he would be able to advise/assist me on my current predicament, but maybe I’ll give him a call if this request doesn’t pan out. Thanks for the suggestion David C.
And yes, I understand a lot of people on various forums enjoy spending hours on end reading and responding to just about anything they see and realized part of my original comment was likely a turn off for some, but I deliberately chose it in attempt trying to avoid unnecessary banter or suggestions.
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8 hours ago, George Albright said:
Late 1920s Lincoln’s used Gemmer. Duesenberg used Ross
??? 😳
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None.
Just need advise from somebody who is knowledgeable about them, preferably all or most of them from about mid-to-late 1930s.Gemmer produced over half a dozen different models during that time frame for several different car manufacturers…
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Knock on wood, in 40+ years owning and extensively (several hundred thousand miles) driving antique/classic/vintage cars, I’ve personally never had a claim, but 10+ years ago, one of my clients had a road & weather condition related, single car driving accident in a high six figure car.
Repair estimate (by me, and I don’t normally deal with this type of stuff] was close to $200K.
Took us (mostly me, but also the owner was forced to get involved) around 6 months to “fight” and settle with his insurer, one of largest companies in the U.S. providing covered for just about everything, not just old cars.
After about 3-4 months, due to their inability to handle it properly and in timely manner, I even submitted an additional five figure invoice just for storage fees and wasting my time.
I’ve said it before, a true value or worthiness of a policy is not so much in the cost of premiums, but will be revealed if you ever have a considerable claim.Vast majority of people with antique/classic/vintage cars only focus on saving a buck or few with cheap premiums and act all shocked when their (alleged) favorite car(s) get totaled with pennies on the dollar they spent or think it’s worth.
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As the title says, I'd like to get a contact info of someone who knows them well.
This person doesn't have to be a "rebuilder" per se (although that's how most of us gain real world experience), but able to describe/identify/understand not only their technical details and differences, casting and part numbers along with compatibility and interchangeability of their components, etc.
I hope you all understand that I'm asking recommendations only from those who actually know such a person(s).
Please, do not bother googling and/or recommending some random individual or service provider you can't actually vouch for, because just like with all other "recommendations" in life, offering any is always a reflection of your own intellect and integrity or lack thereof.
Thank you.
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1 hour ago, 3macboys said:
Looks similar to 1937 Dodge - the horn button doesn't match but the wheel itself seems to
Agreed. Thanks.
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I've said it countless times and can say it again "People do strange things" (and many do it just to earn a buck or two).
My guess on this is that someone might've stamped the booklet in attempt/effort to fool somebody else and perhaps even to sell it as something rare and valuable.
Tons of cars or other items have been marketed/sold as originally (but not really) owned/used/slept in by -- insert your favorite historical individual -- and there's always those who fall for these scams.
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Thanks guys, for checking your parts catalogs etc.
I never expected it being from a truck or other commercial vehicles since those, as mentioned, aren’t known for featuring anything more than utilitarian (“spartan” ?) components.
Fortunately mine is in great, unrestored condition, but I wouldn’t mind having a spare, just in case…
So if anyone comes across one at a swap meet or yard sale, keep me in mind.
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@drwatson Thanks. My previously mentioned friend had suggested same and this is what I discovered in the underside of one of the inner attachment points for the spokes, so clearly a MoPar and likely from mid-to-late ‘30s.
Funny I hadn’t thought of looking for this during 30+ years of owning it, especially when most people consider me having severe OCD and I’m known for over-analyzing/- researching /-studying almost every detail in my life and work (i.e. old cars and their components). 🤔
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Perhaps you can look at it this way:
- Any vehicle, new or old, will deteriorate over time, regardless of where or how it’s stored or used, but with proper maintenance and services, catastrophic effects of that deterioration can be minimized and prolonged.
- Good news is that any vehicle can be restored, even multiple times, so using it as much as you can and/or want during your custodianship, will not only provide more originally intended pleasures for you directly, but also helps preserve the restoration hobby in general and businesses/industry supporting it long into the future.
I’m paraphrasing, but “No one on their deathbed has ever been heard wishing they’d driven/used their -(insert your favorite car here)- less”.
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1 hour ago, Peter Gariepy said:
joke: “ what’s the difference between a hoarder and a collector? Money“
With all due respect, but I don’t get this “joke”.
I know and have known a lot of wealthy individuals, some very wealthy, who are/were “hoarders” and some even think/thought of themselves “collectors” of various things they hoard(ed).
Some have even made efforts to call or establish their hoardings as museums (mostly for tax sheltering reasons, etc) -
Thanks for trying, but other than general appearance, the suggested Zephyr wheels aren't even close in their details.
They might've been originally manufactured by same vendor, but ...
... no cigar.
As mentioned by another member, and I've been fully aware of this, there were hundreds if not thousands of different banjo wheels made for and featured in numerous pre- and post war cars, but in 30+ years I just haven't seen one identical to one in my posted pictures, let alone been able to figure out which exact year, make and model it was originally fitted to, hence this inquiry.
A friend who had seen this post/topic (and who's father gave me the pictured wheel) told me earlier today he has a '36-'38(?) Dodge wheel that looks very similar, but has some detail differences.
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.jpg.fd5ade24d92618916b5c81d2857a1652.jpg)
Air Compressor Size
in Garages, Trailers, and Towing
Posted · Edited by TTR (see edit history)
Good point, since the overall quality of any equipment is the sum of the quality of its components/parts.
OTOH, I rarely read product reviews of anything due to knowing reviewers qualifications.
I prefer to use my own critical thinking coupled with common sense and logic instead.
To use air compressors for example: A good quality 2-stage air pump delivering sufficient amount of air commonly needed for automotive restoration related equipment, tools and work will probably costs $1000.- to $2000.-at minimum, a quality electric motor probably at least +/-$1000.- and a well built (& safe) tank at least $+/- $1000.-.
So, if using above (estimated) figures, how good can a less than $2000.- compressor combo really be, let alone one for less than $1000.- ?
YMMV.