TTR
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Posts posted by TTR
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3 hours ago, Fleetwood Meadow said:
I need to find a new brake drum. It’s 11”x2”, 5 lug at 4.25” diameter. I can’t find any.
You might want to double check the bolt pattern diameter, which if I'm not mistaken, should be 5 on 4.5" most MoPar passenger cars of that period.
The way you're measuring isn't quite correct.
It can be used as a reference, but you need to add about 1/4" to come up with a centerline for the diameter of a full circular pattern.
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4 hours ago, dictator27 said:
Check the right front brake flex hose. It may have collapsed internally.
Another good suggestion (i.e. how old are the hoses ?), although I've only experienced/seen internal collapse/failure of brake hoses on certain vintage Italian sports cars using German brakes, but in each occurrence hoses were 30+ years old and/or never previously replaced after the cars were assembled at the factory.
OTOH, whenever I perform a brake rebuild on any vintage car, I usually just rebuild or replace everything, including hoses AND all hard lines, etc.
I also usually recommend (my clients and friends) having a complete brake rebuild on their antique/classic/vintage cars done every +/-10 years, regardless of mileage/usage. Maintenance inspection and basic services at least every 3-5 years, more often if usage or less than ideal storage suggests otherwise.
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2 hours ago, George Smolinski said:
I think we ruffled a few feathers when we dared to say that comparing the two photos, it looks like they may be 2 different cars. Just for the record, the car in the photo I posted is the one I would want.
Well, some feathers just are like that. And since we're going "for the record", I wouldn't want it in either form.
OTOH, besides the one's I already do, there's a very limited number of cars I would actually want to own.
And if I did, more feathers would likely be ruffled, mainly because I would actually use them "as intended", instead of trailering and showing them at just concours events or organized tours.
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About a year ago I sold and sent an 1980's car (superbly nice, original condition, 18K mile, 2 SoCal owners, etc) to AUS and the buyer asked/paid me to evacuate the A/C refrigerant (R-12) and disconnect one of the system lines at the compressor, replace all brake pads/shoes (which all were still OEM and might've had asbestos in them), leave a copy of the invoice for these services in the glove compartment and place the empty boxes from new pads and shoes inside the car.
According to the buyer, his import agency said everything went smoothly.
There were couple of other "potential" concerns, but on recommendations from his import agency, the buyer opted to leave them "as is".
Removal of these "potentials" would've required substantial amount of work and significantly affected the pristine originality of the car.
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Couple of observations:
Were the (new/relined ?) shoes arched/fitted to their respective drums and not (accidentally ?) mix-matched during assembly ?
I've found some "modern" lining materials used in re-lined shoes too thick and not necessarily consistent in their thickness.
I've also found some service manuals, including OEM produced, aren't always very accurate with their descriptions or illustrations, so use of caution and common sense is pre-requisite
Are the drums new or were they turned and if yes, are they actually centered and round ?
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16 hours ago, lump said:
In this case, you have to remember that the guy who built it is the guy who "authenticated" it, repeatedly. And do keep in mind that, as I mentioned above, the car did sustain numerous scratches, dings, and etc by the time the movie was finished with it. And it remained Pete's car for quite a long time. Pete did not then put the car away, carefully documenting every facet of it and refusing to change anything. He used and drove the car a great deal. And like most rodders/customizers/builders, etc, I'm sure he was constantly upgrading the car. Pete was a real rod builder, who went on to build LOTS of hot rods, and to sell many tons of custom parts for other builders all over the world. It's easy to assume that he probably tried many different things on this '34. But he was the guy who secured it later and put it in the showroom at Pete n Jakes Rod Shop.
This ^^ reads like a convincing endorsement for its “authenticity”.
OTOH, whether this car is authentic or not makes no difference to me. I was just commenting my observations on two different appearances shown in the pictures and how they could lead someone to think “maybe different cars ?”
While I’ve always been into period-correct, early style hot rods (have had mine 33 years and counting), I never quite learned to appreciate Street Rods, which this car, at least in my mind, represents.
Most “Street Rods “, especially all those with the aftermarket modern and/or pre-fabricated bodies/chassis, creature comforts and running gears, not to mention latest bling and gadgets, just appear and feel like kit cars someone assembled by checking boxes from an online or print catalog
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1 hour ago, joe_padavano said:
Huh? The photo I posted is the original car, in the showroom at the current Pete & Jakes's location.
As I initially and then George S. noted, if you look at the first photo (B & W with M. Sheen) of this thread and compare it to one you posted (along with others found on the internet and in P & J website), it’s clear they have numerous detail and feature differences, including but not limited to exhaust, painted flames, rear bumper, stance, wheels/tires, etc, begging a question that if latter is supposed to represent former and there are that many discrepancies, are they REALLY even a same car ?
Does anyone have reasonably good documentation of the car's history and VIN from the movie to showroom ?
How many similar claims have been made of “Bullit” Charger or Mustang, the deuce or ‘55 Chevy from “American Graffiti” and countless other “famous/movie” cars ?
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With so many detail and feature differences between the car in the OP (and the movie) and what it supposedly is today, can make one wonder whether it’s even same car at all.
Kind of like how many John Milner’s “piss yellow chicken coupe’s” (from “American Graffiti”) there are today ? Hundreds ? More ?
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Research through all known auction results and compare each to your car.
That’s how all appraisers, insurance adjusters or value guides come up with their “numbers”.
Anything else, including “opinions” offered here or any other online forums are just those and you probably know what they say about “opinions”.
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1 hour ago, Leif in Calif said:
... I think there are quite a few cars on the road that are way over 10 years old with original lines.
I don't doubt that at all, just like "there are quite a few cars on the road" with less than ideal or safe brakes, steering/suspension, tires, etc. 😉
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Does anyone know the VIN of Gershwin’s Cord ?
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I see this as another “feel good” stories, which may not have much impact on the hobby of antique/classic/vintage cars.
First, I admittedly didn’t read the entire article, so don’t know if this “pledge” is directly dedicated to this school’s “Automotive Restoration” program or to their general funding for any and all departments, etc.
Also, while there might be some, but what percentage of graduates from this “Restoration” program have actually gone to that field (& stayed on it with a clear career approach)?
I know quite a few individuals with law degrees who have never practiced law or pursued any career benefitting of having one.
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20 hours ago, Leif in Calif said:
... length of rubber hose between the vacuum tank and the carb that had become hard as a rock. It was replaced during the last rebuild which was about 1998.
Glad you found the cause and got it fixed, but with all due respect, to expect any automotive-use rubber (or equivalent) hose or product, regardless of application, year/make/model of vehicle it's being used on or the location of said vehicle on this planet to provide practical service life beyond 10 or so years just defies logic and common sense, especially of products used for chemical delivery and/or safety related components
And using that common sense approach, any such product in use over 10 years should automatically be considered past it "replace by" date, but even more so if said component's actual DOM is unknown, since who knows how many years or even decades it might've sat on some warehouse shelf and possibly have it's practical/safe life expectancy already "expired" by the time of purchase and initial installation.
But yes, use of ethanol and other chemicals will also shorten the life expectancy of fuel related hoses, especially those manufactured prior to introduction of such to fuels produced today.
Quite simple, once understood.
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58 minutes ago, F&J said:
...ribbon fins will cool better ... than ...straight fin.
This is not necessarily accurate or true in all cases.
Straight fin cores are still commonly used in heavy equipment, industrial and truck applications and I believe, based on comments from several radiator shops I've used in the past, including "The Brass Works", which made a new custom radiator (w/straight fin core) for my PB Roadster with a 276" De Soto about 10 years and tens of thousands of miles ago.
To my understanding, the "ribbon fin" core is more commonly used in automotive applications mainly due to being cheaper to produce.
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On 10/31/2022 at 1:47 PM, leomara said:
While in the restoration of my 1928 Chrysler Model 72 roadster I've managed to acquire 2 radiators of the above type, neither worth a farthing. Both have leaks in the center core, one was able to be serviced with stop leak, the other I was told is clogged and if we could get by that roadblock it still has leaks in the center core. Now I'm well aware of the outrageous cost of re-coring these buggers so I cannot even consider that option. Does anyone have a radiator technician they could recommend to possibly work some magic or there also was a post about doing a re-core with a conventional type core and then using a faux honeycomb front to disguise the repair.
??? (see additional quotes below)
39 minutes ago, leomara said:... I got the impression they have the experience and willingness to try and repair my radiator rather than just saying it needs a re-core. Perhaps since I have 2 they can make a decent one out of both. We shall see what develops..
2 hours ago, leomara said:... no show, just go.
Rhetorical question (no answer required):
If this ^ actually is the objective, why even waste time and money patching up 94 year old radiator, which more than likely will fail sooner rather than later ?
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First, before proceeding further, make sure you have and study (enough to understand basics of) the electrical section and wiring diagrams of a factory service manual for your car.
Then, even with his initial minor voltage mixup, Mr. Padavano’s suggestion seems like a good place to start the diagnostics and process of elimination.
P.S. As suggested by several members, good/strong ground to engine, frame and every body panel housing any electrical components is the most vital thing in automotive wiring,
although many British cars/trucks, especially those with wood framed bodies, require ground to be separately brought to each individual component.
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23 hours ago, TerryB said:
It’s Rhode Island Wiring.
Duly noted.
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"1948 Oldsmobile 6 Volt Issues"
3 hours ago, joe_padavano said:Once you put the lights on, there is 12V on those lamps, not ground. That's why they don't work with the lights on.
???
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I’ve used numerous harnesses by YnZs Yesterdays Parts on cars I’ve restored in past 3+ decades, but I’ve also made several obsolete, obscure or not-being-reproduced 6 & 12 Volt harnesses myself from scratch for American, British & Italian cars + some antique wooden boats, including one from 1914 and couple from 1930s.
I’ve even advised/helped YnZ on several corrections for their patterns over the years/decades, but in general their products are top notch.
Others have been happy with Long Island Wiring (or something like that ?).
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28 minutes ago, Matt Harwood said:
If a car built to run on 6V struggles it's because of external circumstances, not because 6V is inadequate for the job.
Exactly.
I have owned (and driven/used extensively) numerous vintage Chrysler Corp. cars combining both (early) Hemi engines and 6V electrical systems.
Only times I've had problems with any has been when one or more of components in them had something wrong with it/them.
Whenever I've seen 6V to 12V conversions, in most cases it has been done due to either laziness or ineptness of the owner or his/her hack mechanic/rebuilder/restorer to sort out and/or understand functions of electrical components or systems adequately enough to begin with and therefor shouldn't even be working on any of it, regardless of voltage.
35 minutes ago, 1954royalhemi said:Sounds like I'm on the hunt for a new generator, 6v battery and some wire.
If I may suggest, assuming this car is a "keeper", do yourself a favor and start by purchasing a copy of an OEM service manual with complete/full wiring diagrams and all service/rebuild instructions to all electrical components and read it with intentions to learn as much of it as you possibly can.
Once you feel confident of understanding all or at least basic principles of everything you've read, consider replacing the entire wiring harness with a good, OEM* type reproduction harness, then test and service or replace any individual component in the entire system.
Anything less and you're bound to have myriad of ongoing problems long into the future or at least until you do all the above or you grow frustrated enough and sell the car with the problems unsolved.
* Do yourself and your car even a bigger favor by staying away from any and all "aftermarket/universal" (usually 12V) wiring harness kits, regardless of how easy or simple their marketing efforts claim them be.
Those, like most things "aftermarket/universal", are mainly for the aforementioned lazy/inept owners or their hired hacks and usually will just cause more problems than solve, not to mention likely to depreciate the value of your car should you wish to sell it.
OTOH, if you don't plan to keep and enjoy the car, just forget what I suggested.
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Thanks again gentlemen.
While I haven’t heard back from Mr. Obrien, I’ve managed to gather advise and information from elsewhere, including all available manuals (although haven’t received all yet) and so far it looks like these transmissions, their operating controls, etc are fairly straight forward.
The “patient” is scheduled to get delivered in about month or so. -
Thanks to all who replied so far.
While my tank isn’t really bad, I recently tried to remove its drain plug without success and ended up pumping the fuel out instead, so decided to look into a replacement.
Unless I can (easily) find really a nice OEM type NOS, reproduction or used one, looks like I may have to make one myself.
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On 10/25/2022 at 8:59 AM, Scott Bonesteel said:
Try Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts, they specialize in vintage gas tanks, have Plymouths back to 33 and make custom tanks as well.
On 10/25/2022 at 12:58 PM, jeff t said:I had Rockvalley make a tank for a 32 PB a few years ago. would recommend them fine work.
Contacted Rock Valley, but they seem to do tanks in Stainless only, so looking into alternative sources …
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Does anyone by chance have another email or phone number for Mr. Obrien they wouldn’t mind sharing via PM or let him know I’m trying to reach him.
Can’t Find Brake Drums Dodge Meadowbrook
in Technical
Posted
If you used this ^ "guide", how did you come up with 4.25" in your OP ?