TTR
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Posts posted by TTR
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25 years and counting...
Initially promised to receive in 6-8 weeks after personally handing requested advance cash payment in full to the owner of a specialty business in PNW of US, catering to upholstery of antique/classic/vintage cars, but after 2+ years of waiting, countless calls, excuses, etc and not even a refund, I sort of gave up on the crooked SOB who's still in business and probably still defrauding individuals around the world on daily bases.
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I believe OP is confusing an auction of high end collector items for a circus/TV freak shows a la B-J, Mecum, R-S, etc.
While ALL classic car auctions are and have always been “just another (used car sales) business” venues, some cater for more established and serious buyers/collectors who often don’t attend nor even follow the proceedings, while others cater to those into glitz, glitter and desire to be “seen on the scene” and their off-site followers (through TV, etc) who like to live vicariously through their “heroes”(?), be they Housewives, Kardashians or some banging/cursing/sparks producing pretenders on fake/scripted drama about car rebuilding/restoration.
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Couple of observations:
First, why would anyone buy any vehicle for public road use before confirming any and all operational regulations related to that vehicle ???
On 8/2/2022 at 6:53 AM, Trulyvintage said:I put my latest plate off the current enclosed car hauler trailer I am using
to tow it back to Ohio where I get a new plate & registration.
While I'm not familiar with Georgia nor Ohio state regulations, I somehow suspect attaching a license plate from vehicle A (with a certain VIN) to another, vehicle B (with a different VIN), would probably be considered illegal by most or perhaps all states in the union.
If not, why would anyone owning multiple vehicles, license/register (or insure ?) more than one of them, instead of just swapping that plate/registration (& insurance) between it and all other vehicles ?
As far as I know Certifications of Origins, Registrations and Titles are all linked/referenced to a specific VIN, i.e. Vehicle Identification Number.
Same with insurance.
Only reasonably accurate answers to OP's questions are likely to be received from government authorities overseeing related regulations, i.e. Department of Motor Vehicles or State Police, a.k.a. Highway Patrol, etc, not some random online discussion forum with umpteen million "opinions".
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So, what is this “very high oil pressure” ?
As you can see TerryB’s posted images, a normal oil pressure should be somewhere between 45 & 60 psi.
It’s also possible your cars factory gauge could be faulty.
I would start by obtaining a good quality aftermarket mechanical gauge with wide enough range (0-100 psi) and good, clear face dial showing increments with at least every 20 psi (i.e. 0 - 20 - 40 - 60 - etc.) and connect it, using a T-connector, with the factory gauge feed line/tube on the engine.
This way you’re able get an accurate reading what the pressure actually is while comparing it with the factory unit readout scale to see if latter is close to accurate.
Also, keep in mind the “normal” pressure is usually indicated with engine fully warm at operating temperature and under moderate load conditions, i.e. while driving.
Basic, old school rule-of-thumb is that a reasonably good or safe oil pressure should be at least and rise 10 psi per each 1000 RPM, i.e. 5 psi at 500 RPM, 20 psi at 2000 RPM, etc…
Another example, I just finished a full rebuild on a ‘53 DeSoto 276” V8 about a week ago and did 100+ mile road test earlier this morning. I’m using 20W-50 oil and when cold the oil pressure goes immediately to about 42-45 psi and after the engine gets fully warm (almost 180*) stays there, whether I’m idling at signal lights or driving 60 MPH.
The oil pressure relief spring in the NOS oil pump I just installed is “standard” and while I have heavier, I’ll use this until I see a reason to change, but I don’t expect that to happen for tens of thousands of miles.
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On 8/3/2022 at 8:31 AM, TTR said:
I don't see anything wrong with band-aid/patch repairs IF/WHEN "you just have to get home" (I've had to do such on more than few* times when driving hundreds of thousands of miles with antique/classic/vintage cars on two continents in past 40+ years, but none were intended as a permanent solutions) or thinking "outside of the box" (having lost my family in my mid teens and supporting myself since, I've done it pretty much all my life), but OP post seems to suggest his were not really intended as temporary solutions.
* I could write a book or two on all the roadside emergency repairs I've done ("just to get home"), but won't...
Just wanted to add that while I might drive my vintage cars, ranging from 65-90 year old examples, perhaps more than most here (several thousand combined miles annually. You ?) and carry, not only reasonable amount of tools along with service/spare parts, I also pack various adhesives/chemicals/lubes/etc, bailing wire, duct tape, tie-down straps, zip ties, etc, especially on long distance, i.e. more than couple of hundred mile trips, just in case should some unexpected roadside emergency repair need arise.
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Wish to add that ONLY instances I can understand band-aid/patch repairs as somewhat permanent solution is if/when a person has a single, daily driver vehicle they depend on to get to earn enough to support themselves and/or their family, but don't have or make enough to afford better or more appropriate repairs or replacement.
WE are essentially discussing/talking about non-essential LUXURIES, apparently even including sailing yachts on the oceans and seas around the globe, all which vast majority of the worlds population can't even afford to dream or think about, let alone aspire to own or do.
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1 hour ago, yachtflame said:
TTR, I guess you’re right. If we can’t all keep our cars at concourse level, we shouldn’t be allowed to have them.
Now we just need to form the CLP (Concourse Level Police)While I've owned a few "concours level"(whateverthefthatmeans ???) cars and still do, most (of the 100+) I've owned in past 4+ decades have been far from what most consider as such, as I've always been more into driving/using than showing mine, perhaps you just chose to miss my point, which was referring to practicalities of permanent vs temporary mechanical/technical repairs/restoration and potential consequences of promoting band-aid fixes as permanent solution.
I'll try to make my point(s) clearer in the future.
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20 hours ago, yachtflame said:
You guys are missing the point. You can’t ALWAYS fix it right! Sometimes you just have to get home.
Give Chris a break, he was trying to start a humorous post on how things can be fixed thinking “outside of the box”!
I don't see anything wrong with band-aid/patch repairs IF/WHEN "you just have to get home" (I've had to do such on more than few* times when driving hundreds of thousands of miles with antique/classic/vintage cars on two continents in past 40+ years, but none were intended as a permanent solutions) or thinking "outside of the box" (having lost my family in my mid teens and supporting myself since, I've done it pretty much all my life), but OP post seems to suggest his were not really intended as temporary solutions.
Right or wrong, but IMO attempting to do band-aid/patch repair as permanent solution is rather disrespectful of antique/classic/vintage cars and the technology they involve.
Besides, promoting/publicizing such endeavors can easily encourage others to attempt similar approach, while ending up with far less than ideal or satisfactory results, eventually leading them to have more frustrations and disappointments toward the hobby, not to mention growing number of antique/classic/vintage vehicles compromised by myriads of hack work out there.
But as I've said before, having been born into and growing up with nearly nothing, I've never been able to enjoy the luxury of being cheap. Apparently OP and some others do.
* I could write a book or two on all the roadside emergency repairs I've done ("just to get home"), but won't...
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On 8/1/2022 at 2:13 PM, 29hupp said:
I have a 29 Hupp with a honeycomb type radiator with a leak that appears to be in the middle of the of the honeycomb. Is this something an established radiator repair shop can possibly repair?
They may be able to, but the real question is, does an established/experienced shop want to ? You know, liability or potential comeback when it fails again*.
If you're looking for good, permanent solution, I would highly recommend replacing the entire core (and perhaps even tanks), especially if any/all of it is original (93 years old) or even just half of that age.
* Patching a leak in something that old is like putting on a band-aid and with any luck (should I say in all likeliness), it'll soon spring another leak near/next to the band-aid or somewhere else.
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"reflections" ?
Well, here's couple of mine and I know they may not be pleasing top everyone, but...
Having attended or participated in various "Monterey Car Week" events in variety of capacities since '93, I've experienced/seen a lot of changes over the years, including rises and falls of some events, ever growing overall attendance by spectators, now including hoards of those into all “luxury lifestyle” events & things to a point of excessive overcrowding along with every kind of problem it brings along.
And now that I finally last week got my Roadster back together, up and running again after 8 months of it being sidelined due to a sudden need of complete engine rebuild (+ clutch, transmission & steering gear overhauls and other smaller “while you’re there” services), I might drive up and perhaps even attend PB this year, but if it's anything like last, I’ll be leaving premises by or before Noon and possibly making this my last attendance (at least as a spectator), as it's not worth the hassle of aforementioned excessive overcrowding, etc, even with free ticket(s) I get usually gifted.
Yet, I still wish to suggest that anyone who's seriously into antique/classic/vintage cars and has never been, should attend, not only PB, but as many Monterey Car Week events they can, at least once in their life (and remember to bring your big boy wallet, as there's not many inexpensive events or lodgings available during that time).
OTOH, one should also be prepared for possible disappointments, especially when it comes to the aforementioned overcrowding + logistical and traffic concerns, etc it brings.
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2 hours ago, alsancle said:
… so the private sponsor needs to be giving you $2500 plus. Or the math doesn’t work.
OK, now that makes more sense.
Your initial comment made it seem, at least to me, like the participating car/owner has to pay $2500 to any sponsor who wants to place their business/corporate logo on the that car.
Thanks to both you and Paul Dobbin.
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On 6/28/2022 at 5:08 PM, alsancle said:
Costs.
2. … and then another 2500 if you want a corporate sponsor logo on the car.
Excuse my ignorance, but could you explain this ^^ as it doesn’t make sense* to me ???
I would think “corporate sponsor” would, or should pay car owner to place their logo on a car.
* I’ve never understood why any business, company/corporation/organization expects me to pay to promote their products or services, i.e. like (trying to) sell me T-shirts or other promotional items with their logo or other business references on it.
If someone wants me to promote theirs, I EXPECT them to GIVE me those promotional products, especially if I buy their products or services, not the other way around, but apparently there are plenty of fools willing to pay for them.P.S. I have stacks and stacks of promotional T- and other shirts, etc I’ve received (free) from all sorts of, mostly (vintage) automotive related businesses over last 3-4 decades, actually more than I can ever wear out in this life and occasionally still get more, but would never pay a dime for any of them.
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As I've pointed out before and what many here may not realize or understand that the cost of completely/correctly/fully/professionally restore any car similar to topic example can easily approach half a million $'s, so assuming it (= topic example) or similar car is done to even close to that extent*, +/-$400K can be seen as a relative bargain.
* OTOH, 99 out 100 cars like that (or any kind) claiming to be completely/fully restored, really just aren't and most not even close.
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Has your car or its body have evidence of having ever been completely disassembled and/or re-painted in such manner during or prior to your ownership ?
Even if it has, a careful examination during disassembly can often reveal how the vehicle was painted during its original construction.
While I don’t recall seeing evidence how mid-‘30s Dodge would’ve been done, I’d guess all or most body panels were painted either off the car or “loosely” mounted and welting wasn’t painted.
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Or perhaps the offer is only about making the video for free, as in he wouldn’t charge the car owner or mechanic for filming them, regardless of how much time or money they might have to spend to get it running ? 🤔
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And what was that old wisdom again ?
”You get what you’re paying… “
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51 minutes ago, Den41Buick said:
The first question is, has the engine been rebuilt at some point recently? If the answer is no, then I would recommend a non detergent 30W. If it has been recently rebuilt then you can look to something more current like a 10W30.
This ^^ is a reasonably good start, but some consideration should be given to climate for and type of intended driving.
Might also be worth to invest into owners manual, as it might have factory recommendations for oil viscosities.
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Please report back whether you end up using their or someone else’s services and how it turned out.
I recently contacted them regarding few different steering gears, both manual and power assist, I need overhauled/rebuilt, but some of the (technical) answers I received gave me a pause.
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On 7/1/2022 at 7:43 AM, 60FlatTop said:
I frequently think that a growing number of old car hobbyists choose their cars as a fashion accessory based on their Kodachrome memories. Only to become disenchanted with their choice, ability to maintain it, and the lack of the expected pleasure of ownership once the have driven past a few reflective store windows.
It starts with the inspired individualist then others follow as a sign of their own individualism.
Exactly why Car Shows, Concours d’Elegances, C & Cs, Cruise night gatherings, etc and now apparently social media outlets are and have always been so important to many in this “hobby” as these “individuals”(?) seem to have inherent need for peer or public approval for their so-called “individualism”..
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Well, that certainly seems little questionable/unethical way to eliminate business competition.
Just publicly claim they’re scammers or otherwise crooked (without providing solid proof ?) and everything will be fine.
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While I don't quite understand why this is specifically in Buick forum, especially when most referred examples are some other brands, but...
... I don't believe this "customizing" or "hot rodding" is anything new or even recent.
It has been going on as long as there's been automobiles.
Heck, come to think of it, almost all coach built cars are and always were essentially customs, i.e built to some specific configuration & details requested (and paid for) by their first owners, and many had their engines or running gears modified or upgraded (= hot rodded) back in the day or even when new.
Besides, some of these "high dollar hot rods" built today aren't necessarily getting done "quick" or "easy", but like any top level restoration, will require time and money, a lot of both and even more of latter if time is of essence.
OTOH, just like "top level" stock configuration restorations, very, very small percentage of customs or hot rods are actually "top level" jobs easily requiring high six or even seven figure budgets and several thousand hours of labor.
Attempting to get a top award like AMBR or Riddler is not really much different from attempting to get a BoS at Pebble, as all require a right car, right crew and truck load of $$$s.
YMMV.
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All these comments about “Lacquer”, but no mention who’s referring to acrylic and who nitrocellulose ?
Having personally painted with all from nitrocellulose to water based base coat/clear coat materials of various brands + variety of spray can paint during past 40+ years, I think I say that they all have their attributes and flaws.Just in past few weeks among variety of other, mostly mechanical, projects I did a small (about 8” x 8”) dent repair, requiring metal straightening/shaping, heat shrinking, prep and custom blend/color-match paint on a 50+ y.o. Italian sports car (yeah, "that" brand) painted (according to the current owner) to its current color (yeah, "that" color) +/- 20 years ago in Germany and has held up quite nicely.
While the color-match came out quite accurately, the most difficult part, as always with spot painting, was to match the texture, especially if you’re not going to color-sand, buff and polish the entire car.
And no matter how hard I tried, unfortunately my texture came out slightly smoother than rest of the car, but fortunately it’s in the area that’ll help hide the difference and I doubt many would ever be able to find it, even if they spent hours next to the car looking for it.
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14 hours ago, plymouthcranbrook said:
All the old Mopars I had back in the 60’s(54 Plymouth and briefly a 53 Dodge) had bolts holding the wheels on. I don’t remember ever seeing one from that time that did not. And the drums on my current car are factory originals.
13 hours ago, c49er said:Dodge was the only line of MoPar 40's 50's cars that used pressed in studs on drums as already noted.
Alex your picture of the pressed in studs from the backside of the drum is the original factory drum setup.
I have some funky 11" stud drums off a 54 Coronet I parted out years ago.
My 52 Dodge wayfarer cpe had 10" stud drums.
The chinese replacement drum drilled and tapped for bolts is probably all that's available new after market.
Probably should be checked on a brake lathe for running true.
Reading these ^^ replies made me realize my experience extends mainly to higher line cars, mostly Chryslers & Imperials and some DeSotos (pretty much all w/12” drums w/studs & nuts instead of bolts) with only few Plymouths or Dodges sprinkled in between 20+ years ago.
Sorry about that.Only extensive and more recent early Plymouth experience I have is with my PB Roadster, but only front brakes on it are stock and rear brakes (& entire rear axle), IIRC, scavenged from ‘51-‘52 Dodge STW(?), so not exactly greatest reference.
But come to think of it, I do have some (new and used) lug bolts with LH & RH threads in my spare parts inventory. Just can’t recall where from or why I got them.
Good topic, learned something useful. Thanks.
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2 hours ago, plymouthcranbrook said:
Mopars of that era used bolts to hold the wheels on.
I don't think this ^^ is exactly correct.
Most of the MoPars of that era ('30s to '60s) that I've owned (dozens) or worked on (dozens) originally have pressed-in (from inside) studs, not only to hold the drum on to the hub as they're separate parts, i.e. two-piece assembly, but also to provide mounting for the road wheels which are secured in place by tapered nuts.
The "new" drum in OPs pictures appears to be what I would call an aftermarket, one-piece (cheaper* to make) brake drum (with drum & hub casted together, so no studs required) and drilled + tapped for the use of tapered bolts to secure road wheels.
* Being that they appear to be cheaply made type (perhaps even "Made in C***a"), just make sure they're running true in all directions before attempting to mount and/or put to use. Any "built-in"(?) discrepancy may cause you chase your tail and possibly even misdiagnose any balance or out-of-round issues to be caused by tires or wheels.
Also, make sure road wheels center themself snuggly from the hub, not the lug bolts.
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Safe, yet effective car cover when towing?
in General Discussion
Posted
Just because OP replaced the cowl vent seal or any other weatherstripping, doesn’t mean they were correct items or installed correctly.
How many here believe these Lincolns or any other same era cars with similar construction leaked enough to soak the interior and trunk when they were new or if they did, how many owners at the time would’ve considered it “normal”, only drove them in sunny, dry weather or asked dealer service department to wrap some tape around them for pending trip in the rain ?
I have a 90 year old Roadster, originally no side windows, no cowl vent (2 of them), door or trunk lid seals, no top header seal, etc + no fenders or running boards and I/we have driven it top up in heavy down pours at highway speeds countless times, yet never been nor had my/our luggage inside the trunk getting soaking wet.
I have owned and driven (in the rain) numerous post-war convertibles from late-‘40s to early-‘70s and never had their interiors or trunks soaking wet, especially after replacing all weatherstripping with proper stuff or if such was not available, I researched for appropriate alternatives and made sure they actually do their intended job when I was done