TTR
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Posts posted by TTR
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23 hours ago, Dr B said:
I do not believe they have mileage data on the cars they insure. I use Hagerty and I have never been asked and I have never told them how much I drive my cars. At the time of signing up with them, I did make sure there was not any annual mileage limit on my policy. Some other companies have limits on annual mileage and usage (for car shows only, etc.). Also, they at least "talk the talk" that they say they support owners driving their cars. So I give them credit for that.
Robert
In my experience and those of many acquaintances, clients & friends, Hagerty (just like any other automotive insurer) has periodically requested mileage reporting and/or estimate, which is part of the necessary information they all need to accurately assess the liability of insuring your vehicle(s).
In my case, at the time of renewal, it is noted that my annual use is estimated/expected to be between 2500-5000 miles and in past 4+ decades I've received couple of audit requests to confirm my odometer reading at that moment in time and as far as I've been made aware by my agent, I can raise or lower my estimated annual mileages and it will be reflected in the premiums.
My policies also have agreed value coverage and obviously those too are reflected in the premiums.
So yes, I believe "they" have some mileage data on all/most cars/trucks the provide a coverage for and while that data is likely inaccurate, I would think it being more realistic than those from auction results, but then again, I'm not an insurance insider.
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5 hours ago, Bhigdog said:
From 2010................
In the interest of sharing knowledge............
I'm finally getting around to installing the glass in the 56 Chrysler. I've been fretting about the windshield and the wiper marks in it for two years now. The "marks" were not quite deep enough to actually "catch" a finger nail but they could be felt. Imported repro glass is available for about $650 without a date code. I'd heard both pro's and cons about polishing out the scratches. I'd heard that it can't be done, that it would cause distortion because it would leave a shallow hollow where the groove was or heat build up would crack the glass.
Being both a frugal type and having nothing to lose I figured I'd give it a try.
First I needed a polishing "kit". I looked at ready made kits and saw they were nothing more than a hard felt pad and some cerium oxide polishing compound.
So instead of p**sing away $75 bucks on a kit, I cut down an old backing disc from my DA sander to 3 1/2" diameter and epoxied a 3/8" thick pad of hard felt on the bottom. My local glass shop sold me a baby food jar of cerium oxide for $5. So now I had my kit.
The kit sellers say to chuck their pad in a drill to polish out the scratches. I figured that was the cause of the distortion problem. Folks were using the pad like a disc sander and concentrating on the scratches. To get around that I mounted my pad on my DA sander and used it only on the orbital mode. Also, instead of concentrating on the scratches I evenly buffed the glass and only gave the scratches a bit of extra buff time.
I'd also heard that the glass could crack from heat build up. Not true. I mixed the cerium oxide with water to make a loose paste. Wet the pad, spread a bit of paste, and started buffing VERY slowly and lightly. As long as everything is wet there in no heat build up. I kept a spritz bottle of water close by and just kept spritzing, buffing, pasting, spritzing buffing and checking.
In about an hour all traces of the scratches were gone, there was no distortion, and I'd saved almost enough to pay for the new tires for the 56 that I need to order. The whole project took a morning to do including making the polishing pad.
If you decide to try this here's few hints. The hard felt is available from McMaster-Carr by the square foot. Or, I have have enough left over to cut a disc for someone or two or three. Keep the glass wet and keep the orbital speed about mid way. Draw a line under the scratches, with a magic marker, on the back side of the glass. That way you can find them and you only have to wipe a small area clean to check your progress. Do not let the pad get dry. It will pack dried oxide into the micro pits that are in every used windshield and you will spend an hour with soapy water and a tooth brush getting it out. Do not ask how I know this last............Bob
Edited December 9, 2022 by Bhigdog (see edit history)Did you by chance took "before & after" photos under various day & night lighting conditions, i.e. sitting inside the car while facing the approaching traffic with their lights on or sun directly in front, etc to demonstrate the evidence in change or elimination of the glare ?
I have seen numerous cases similar yours to remove scratches and/or tiny pitting from windshields, but not a single one that didn't leave evidence of it having been done and as I mentioned, in most cases, while sometimes alleviating or even eliminating the initial problem, generally caused others and/or made the results worse. Some of these cases included multi day efforts by "professional glass polishing services".
OTOH, I've also seen some results, in which perhaps similar to your efforts were employed and the owner(s) of said car(s)/windshield(s)/rear window(s) were pleased, but I (& others) thought of them looking quite bad.
But as they say, we all view things from our own perspectives (or expectations).
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Chances of making it better by polishing will be very small.
I most cases I've heard of or witnessed*, the outcome has usually been worse than the initial concern.
* Full disclosure: I reproduce & sell obsolete windshields and other curved glass for vintage vehicles (although not for '82 Chrysler) and have over 30 years of experience with this.
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7 hours ago, Marty Roth said:
The major fallacy of the article, at least in my opinion, is that their data is from auction cars, the same cars which were auctioned at least twice.
I also find it odd Hagerty would use auction listings to compile mileage data, especially when they have access to audited/reported mileages of their own entire customer base, which I would think to provide far more accurate and comprehensive data points.
3 hours ago, Dr B said:Yes, this is a limited data set. Nevertheless, it still confirms that people who bought those cars didn't drive them much.
I admittedly didn't or won't click on the article, but did it specify reasons for lack of driving ? Cars not meeting (driving) expectations ? Purchased for bragging/showing off reasons or financial speculation ? Etc...
In 45 years of owning 100+ vintage cars, I've only "shown" mine less than dozen times and really have no interest in doing it.
I've always bought/owned vintage cars for myself to enjoy, mainly by driving them (on average a few thousand miles annually).
I don't want to be on any organized "tours" or even do day-drives with more than 2-3 other cars.
I prefer doing drives by myself, so I can enjoy freedom of choices.
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Since when has auction or any other used car sales descriptions expected to be historically accurate or correct, let alone anything on TV shows or internet discussions intended for (rainy day) entertainment ?
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On 9/18/2024 at 4:07 PM, ken77 said:
What engine oil do you guys recommend for a 1929 chrysler 65?
Is this a trick question ?
In spite of so many obviously trying, for anyone to give even a somewhat reasonable/sensible answer, a lot more information would be needed, including but not limited to what is the current condition of the engine ?
When was it rebuilt*, if ever ?
If ever, what was done and/or replaced ?
Do you have rebuild and service records ?How many miles on it since ?
What type of oil is in it now ?
Etc, etc, etc …* Yes, there are “rebuilds” and then there are “rebuilds”, but one may not have much, if anything, in common with the other.
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For full disclosure:
I don’t “budget”, pre se, anything nor ever have for my own cars either.
I’ve always bought cars I want and lived with the consequences.While I maintain my own cars to best of my abilities, regardless of cost, and try to use them as much & often as possible, if/when something needs to be repaired*, replaced** or serviced***, I don’t gripe about it, I just do it and the day I can’t afford to, it’ll be a time to accept I’m in the wrong hobby.
OTOH, I don’t have to worry about budgeting for cars I don’t yet have as I can’t afford to buy any of them even if my net worth was ten times of current.
* The engine in my Roadster gave up after nearly 100 000 miles and 30+ years of service couple of years ago and I spent more money & time rebuilding it than I originally spent on acquisition and reconstruction of the car 30+ years earlier.
If or when something unexpectedly fails, it gets repaired promptly or as quickly as possible, because I want my cars be ready whenever the urge to drive rises.
** For example, I replace tires on all every 5-6 years or at +/-20% thread wear, whichever comes first (usually latter).
*** Just like daily drivers, I service pretty much everything in my vintage cars on schedule based on mileage and/or time.
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Based on 4+ decades of involvement & observations of this hobby, it appears vast majority of vintage car buyers/owners do not seem to budget or even consider budgeting anything for repairs, let alone scheduled maintenance, etc.
Almost all seem to just complain of those "Oh s**t, something broke (again)" experiences or "Fuel/insurance/parts/services/etc are too expensive", etc, all now exhibited daily on internet forum like this one..
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I agree with both Matt & West, just like in restoration or numerous other professions, there probably are more crooks, hacks and scammers in appraisal/inspection service or antique/classic/used car sales businesses than knowledgeable and trustworthy providers.
Using due diligence to choose one is as important as the subject vehicle itself.
I've probably mentioned it before, but having had brokered or consulted on hundreds & subsequently inspected thousands of vintage vehicles on behalf buyers, mostly because an inability to do it themselves due to living hundreds or thousands of miles away, including on other continents.
Almost every individual has contacted me through word-of-mouth recommendation(s) from those I've assisted before and in 99+% cases have been pleased with it.
As for the OPs dilemma, I can understand why the seller is hesitant and objects to someone bringing their own & unknown lifting equipment.
I probably wouldn't agree to it without pre-approving said equipment, the person operating it and clear terms of liabilities in case of any potential damages caused by lifting.
As far as I'm concerned, PPI* in general is or should be the last thing to do after everything else is done and agreed on, including price**, only to verify sellers claims/disclosures and best if contracted with someone, preferably a shop with necessary equipment, experience & familiarity with the make/model or at least the type of vehicle in question to do it professionally.
And generally the entity performing the PPI, be it an individual or a shop, should be agreed upon by both parties, but usually all costs, including transportation to/from it and other liabilities fall on buyer
* Like with so many other misconceptions in this hobby & industry, there's a difference between appraisal***, general & pre-purchase inspections, but most people don't seem to know or understand what they are.
** Obviously, the price can always be re-negotiated IF PPI reveals notable undisclosed concerns/issues/problems, but trying to obtain & use PPI results beforehand is just moronic in my opinion and likely a waste of time for both the buyer & the seller.
*** For example, years ago, I had to deal with a substantial insurance claim on behalf of a clients vintage car due to a major collision damage and not only the 3-4 of the insurance company's own adjusters/appraisers, but the internationally highly regarded independent appraiser they (the insurance company) also contracted to assess my estimates appeared almost completely inept to provide any sensible assessments of their own.
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25 minutes ago, alsancle said:
On one hand I agree with you, on the other hand I've seen too many cars painted Beige/Brown/Orange because that was cool in 1980.
I see a lot of cars, colors or other choices people make daily I don't agree with or wouldn't do/want, but it's their car, color or choice to live with.
I've never understood someone asking opinions of others, let alone from random people on internet forum on something that's clearly a personal choice/matter, but that's just me.
As far as I'm concerned they might as well ask something like "Hey ! I just met this person. Should I marry her/him ?" 🙄
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I believe that if an item is shipped Monday (before cutoff deadline) with FedEx "First Overnight" service from Templeton, CA, it’s likely (guaranteed ?) to be delivered in Austin, TX on Tuesday by 8am.
Most major National/US carriers (UPS, USPS, etc) offer similar or less expensive (read slower, i.e. 1, 2 or 3 day) services. Search their websites and choose the one you like/prefer.
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Is the car supposed to please you or others ?
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11 minutes ago, JFranklin said:
It is something I have done. It may be aggravating and time consuming, but it is also satisfying and a help to all of us to make scamers not get away with their activities. It never is a waste of time.
I've tried too (not on this case though) and realized there are easier ways to extract justice. Some have been quite satisfying. They say Karma can be an equivalent of a female dog and I have no doubts about that.
As for helping/warning others, that's what my comments here have been about.
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32 minutes ago, JFranklin said:
That's why we have a small claims court system. Use it.
How many (interstate) "small claims" have you personally pursued to a successful outcome and without significant amount of aggravation, effort, money or time ?
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On 9/12/2024 at 9:41 AM, drhach said:
Everyone has their own perception based on their experience. I would hesitate to accuse SMS of corruption. My take away from my own dealings with them was that their work is stellar. However, don't expect to be treated like royalty and more to the point, expect to be treated like an annoyance. In all fairness, I would imagine that they get calls all day from people wanting their stuff. But i have to wonder how many of those calls come from not quoting the timeline correctly the first time.
I certainly didn’t accuse them of “corruption”(?).
I just noted the founder/owner being a crook and lying thief.I flew to his place of business, stood in front of him and handed over the cash he required to fulfill my order within estimated “6-8 weeks, no problem”.
After three years of calling every 2-3 months and hearing BS excuse, even to my request to get my money back, I gave up.I’m not at liberty to provide details, but know several other individuals who’ve had similar, i.e. unhappy outcomes dealing with him/his company, hence my cautionary comment earlier.
As far as I’m concerned the guy is a fncking crook (and knows it too), but has managed to build a specialty business with little to no competition and therefore able to get away with.
I can only imagine how much money he’s managed to scam off people who, like me, eventually just gave up wasting their time.
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I would highly recommend not clicking the OP survey link, especially since OP is new and the link could be a click bait or portal to potential scams, etc.
If OP is serious about surveying/studying this subject, all answers can be found already on this forum or could be asked directly here without a need for outside link(s).
Just think people.-
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13 minutes ago, alsancle said:
Ed, isn't there a rough estimate way for a backyard mechanic to perform this test outside of the car?
There are ways to “bench” test just about any electrical/mechanical component found in vintage automobiles.
Just in past few weeks, I’ve rebuilt couple of Coaxial power steering gear assemblies for mid-‘50s Chryslers, a vacuum control solenoid valve assembly & main shift cylinder for a Cord 810, an A/C compressor + its clutch for a ‘60 “300 F”, etc and all were “bench” tested before installation.
Couple of months ago I conducted flow rate & pressure performance tests on several 50+ year old electric fuel pumps used in vintage Ferraris and did a comparison tests on two modern identical replacement pumps.
P.S. I just saw Ed’s reply and it describes a method almost identical I’ve been using for decades.
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16 hours ago, DFeeney said:
You did not mention if it overheated before you re cored your radiator.
This ^^ !
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7 hours ago, Turbinator said:
I apologize for my error. I did not read and understand the question as it was written.
No problem. Happens to all of us occasionally.
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20 hours ago, Turbinator said:
As a shipper best way is the senders choice for his/her situation. Also could be the best way is the shippers choice of carrier.
With all due respect, but this ^^ has nothing to do with OP's issue or my question of "best" in his/her context.
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15 minutes ago, Pfeil said:
One step at a time. First charge the battery fully, then do a load test. If the battery passes the load test and the car still has cranking problems, then we look for resistance in the wiring and in the starter.
This ^^
16 minutes ago, Pfeil said:Most generator equipped cars will show a discharge at Idle. That is NORMAL. If you want to make a generator charge at Idle and you don't do a lot of driving or high-speed driving, you can change the pulley size diameter to accommodate this problem you THINK you have.
You can also make adjustments to some voltage regulators to increase output at idle, but this requires basic understanding of how automotive charging/electrical systems work and how to perform any such adjustments.
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3 hours ago, Giacomo said:
Howdy everyone, I have a 1927 Franklin 11B I'm down to changing all of the fuses.
I noticed that the fuses look bad and got new ones, but can't see what size each is on the car.
🤔
3 hours ago, TerryB said:Photos of fuses please.
🤔
3 hours ago, keiser31 said:With size/length of fuse.
🤔
How many fuses does a 1927 Franklin use and for what ?
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Basically for same reason hundreds of thousands of cars/trucks/etc are scrapped every day around the globe (& pointed out already by others), ECONOMICS.
Besides, just think of the horrors if all the cars ever produced were still cluttering the above water surfaces of this planet.
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What does “Best way” mean in this context ? 🤔
Most authentic ?
Cheapest ?
Easiest ?
Quickest ?
Etc …
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How many hours a week/month?
in General Discussion
Posted · Edited by TTR (see edit history)
For past 3+ decades I’ve worked pretty much full time, i.e. 5-6 days a week, restoring other peoples vintage cars, fabricating & manufacturing parts for them, etc., so my ability to spend time with mine has been somewhat limited, but I still manage to accumulate a few thousand miles on them annually by taking time, usually 2-3 Sundays a month for 100+ mile day drives and 2-3 500-1500 mile road trip vacations in them, latter meaning combining two of my/our “hobbies”/pleasures i.e. vintage driving & travel.
I/we occasionally also incorporate couple of other hobbies/interests/passions to vintage driving/travel activities.
For example, later this fall we’re going for another 1000+ mile vintage car road trip planned around a weekend visit in San Francisco to attend two live music/theater performances, Beethoven’s “9th” and “Tristan und Isolde” by R. Wagner. I can hardly wait to enjoy both.
My other hobbies/past time include hiking & swimming, reading, mostly classic literature anymore & geopolitical history, latter usually from as many different, including opposing perspectives as possible in hopes of learning what truly happened, especially in various conflicts and what were the real reasons that caused them.