awk409ak

You may have a LX block, but an LX engine would have the dual quads set up. Certainly not a Q-jet carb. I see nothing is bolted together too. Art

Have you tried this place. I just Google'd EP-536S and got this. It may be the same place, don't know. Art http://www.2040-parts.com/1953-1967-buick-green-engine-paint-spray-can-ep536s-i1854399/

Carl, I like number 3 too, not anything crazy, just bolt on stuff. I've done the QA-1 on a 38 Chevy coupe with mustang 2 front end and my current project which is a 47 Chevy Fleetmaster Woodie Wagon with a 74 Camaro front end. I like them. Think about it, it gives you the flexibility to adjust to ride height, firmness, and they look great underneath. As far as wheels and tires. I'm not a big wheel person so I was not going to go bigger than 17's. The redline on the yellow car give it more performance look, which is what I wanted. Art

Kreed, I'm with you 100%. I have been there and done it. It is a hobby to me, but I still watch how I spend the $$$$ on a project. Art

Carl, My car is pretty much stock height I believe. I do have air shock in rear with little to no air. Would like to lower the front a little someday. Have thought about adding QA-1 coilover to the front, then I can adjust the ride height. I do have spacers, but did not require them. The 17's fit fine without spacers. One of my biggest problems I is trying to decide what I want to do with car. 1. is do I keep it, 2. do I leave it stock like it is or 3. do I make small changes to more of my liking (a little restomod). Thanks, Art

Thanks. It gives the car more of a performance look. I've seen them on silver cars with the Buick road wheels too. Nothing wrong with the white walls, but a different look. Art

I was in a show two weeks ago and got a top 30 pick of all most 500 cars. I have the US Mag wheels, 7 x 17 & 8 x 17 with DB redlines. I chosed the redline for a little different look. Art

Hey, let me clarify myself. Sure you can get it done for less, a lot less. You get what you pay for, and you can paint it your self to save $$$$. I was speaking of a show quality 2 stage paint with general prep work or even stripping(not major body work) and the removal of all trim, hood and truck lid, maybe front fenders. Then there is the finishing touches, putting it back together and the color sand/buffing. There is a lot of work to do a Quality Job. Just trying to be up front about cost. Paint/body work is not cheap these days, specially from high quality shop. Art

My experience is paint and body work is expensive. Just paint can be 15K if not more and then add for body work. You can hit 20K-25K easy. Art

I thought for 63-65 that the remote was the for left and right. We've discuss this manyyyyy times. Art

Tom, So you're saying the one on the right is correct for my 08D built 64 (Aug, 4th week, 63). Art

Ed, Same length. Bill, Which one is correct for 64 with a Aug 63 build, please say the one on the right, haha? Art

Ed, Wasn't there two styles of selector lenses in 64? Art

All is good. Had to replaced the regulator too, but don't really know if it was bad. During replace of regulator it appear the connector can become loose. I also had to replace the connector on the alternator, because it just fell apart during removal process. Important thing is, it's charging now. Art

Your engine appears to be a 63, 401 4bbl. Not a 64 engine. Art

It should look like this. First picture is the engine code and serial number. Second picture is the vin number which should match the vin plate (pictured above). Looking straight down at the block in front of the valley cover. To the left of the thermostat housing will be the engine code, either KW or KX. Both are 425's, W is single 4bbl carb, X is 2 x 4 carb's. Just like what Ed described above. Art

OK, my alternator is not the original. It appears to be possibly a 70 Corvette style. Date code is really 0D29 so 70 April 29th. Art

Had the alternator tested and it tested bad, no output. So got a new alternator. The old one is a Delco-Remy with a number; 1100750 61A 0029 12VNEG Does anyone know the original alternator numbers? Art

I have a show coming up Friday and Saturday. My thoughts are to remove alternator today and test the diodes, I have located replacement diodes. I'll check the manual on testing the regulator. I could just take the alternator in to an auto part store and have them test the alternator too. If my is bad then just buy another alternator and fix my mine at my leisure. I guess I could do that with the regulator too. The timing is poor for this to happen. Haha, but it always is right. What is meant by "hot" battery? Is the the voltage high? It was on a quick charge Saturday and was a tad over 13 volt to get me home. Thanks, Art

Hi Guys, Yesterday I was out in my 64 Riv, and stop at a auto part store and when went to leave the battery was dead. Store checked the battery it was good, but low on charge about 11 volts. We removed the battery and did a quick charge that brought up to 13+ volts. We reinstalled the battery and tested the charging system. There was no increase of voltage to the battery, which means no out put from the alternator. I drove it home with no issues. Today I started it with no issues. Put my voltmeter on the battery with engine running 12.56 volts, loading it, it drops to 12.25, but come back to 12.55-12.57. Shouldn't I have more like 13-14 volts? Is it a diode or diodes that's bad? Am I doing something wrong here? Also, what lights should be on when the ignition switch is turned to on position? Shouldn't I have the Amp and Oil light appear? I know the temp light show when turned to start. Art

On my 64 Riviera, I had BFG's 225/75R15 on the road wheels. Running some aftermarket wheels and tires now. Art

Thank you Tom for looking. The article is about my 47 Chevy woodie as it was found in 1990 Idaho field. I have a copy of the article, but not the Woodie Times issue. Thanks again Art

All, I know I'm going to get dinked for starting a new thread, but.... I'm looking for two past Woodie Times issues; Issue; 2/1/1994, Car; 1947 Chevrolet, Article Title; Can This "Gonner" be Saved? By a Non-Cabinetmaker? Issue; 4/1/1997, Car; 1947 Chevrolet, Article Title; Not a Goner! Thanks for the help, Art

Looking for issue 4/1/1997 Thanks, Art

Hi everyone, First time on this forum. I'm on the Riviera forum, but did not know that Woodie Times is part of the same forum. I’m trying to find a past article that was in the Woodie Times many years ago. I’m going to say late 90’s or early 2000. The article title and author is as followed; “Can This Gonner Be Saved? By A Non Cabinetmaker?” by Mike McLaughhlin. I bought the woodie from Mike in 2012 and have been working on it since. It about ready to it the road, but would like to find that issue of Woodie Times. Any help would be greatly appriecated. Art Klein #10873