901 Packard

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  1. Matt's right, you have to decide if you want top shelf, or other. If other, there are good cars out there, you just have to be patient and flexible and yea maybe she isn't going to be a beauty queen. The old song " make an ugly women your wife, you'll be happy for the rest of your life " works for me. Pre war sedans are cheap even Packard's, and if you are buying paint, chrome and sandpaper, they cost the same for a Model A, or a Packard. Over the top restorations are for the Pebble Beach crowd. Let them loose the money. I saw a 32 Packard convertible at Hershey last year for $ 1.3 M, and it had a lot of the same stuff my lowly 901 has, it was amazing to see the similarities. I bet that guy gets no more attention then I do, for a whole lot less money. Enjoy the hobby, and don't take it to seriously. Buy what you like, not what someone else likes, unless your like me, I had to buy a Packard, my wife spend 30 yrs working for Packard ( Electric ) so I had no choice.
  2. Detergent oil will help some, but don't expect a squeaky clean block, mostly clean bearing surfaces that you cannot see. Just change the oil and clean the screen on the oil pick up every few hundred miles at first. If you see a lot of gunk, then maybe go further, but it will take some time. Also getting the oil hot while running can do wonders. On a engine that has set for so long, I would be curious about the valves sticking. MIne was in a museum for 15 years and most of the valves were stuck. The only way to know is have someone turn the crank and watch the valves go up and down. Once you determine that they move all or part of the travel then maybe turn it on the starter. Did you remove the starter and try it on a bench ? Remember this is 6volt positive ground.
  3. All good suggestions so far. I use Rotella 15/40 in my 32 and have no issues. As suggested clean out what you can from the valve gallery and make sure those drains are clear. As for the pan gasket, use Permetex or Form a Gasket on both surfaces, I think this car uses a slinger return line like mine from the rear main bearing and if the pan is not tight it will leak around that return line hole as it comes through the pan flange. It is not under pressure, only gravity feed but still the pan needs to seal around the hole. I did not see that you turned the engine yet ? I made up a crank tool by using a 1" black pipe and connectors and drilled and ground out the space for the pin that holds the pulley. See photo attached. Overall length is 14" . Just use a big crescent wrench to turn it. As for the oil filter, you can disconnect it for now and by-pass back to the pan. A by-pass filter does not do much anyway, it may cycle about 10% of the oil, so just change the oil regularly, you are not likely to drive it many miles to need a filter.
  4. I go to a car show every Tue. night. 50's music, not too loud. 50 to 60 cars just show up, mixed years, some newer some older. But driving in with a 32 Packard and everyone looks. They past right by those pony cars etc. and take a photo of mine. If we don't get our cars out no one will realize they exist and the sport will die. Young people need to see them before they can appreciate them, so go show yours and turn your hearing aid down, it could provide a great memory for some little kid, that may want to buy your car one day.
  5. Soak the end grain with Penetrol, leave the rest of the wood dry if not exposed to the elements. On interior door wood where rain water might get in, I prime with an oil based primer like Zinsser and then an oil based top coat like rustoleum and thin it a bit. On the fire wall a couple of coats of Zinsser, sand with 220 and then top coat with oil based, not lacquer. If using lacquer based top coat, then just primer and top coat as usual, the primer should penetrate the wood and seal it. Keep in mind that wood moves with humidity, and no paint till adhere forever.
  6. There are many survivor Packard's out there in much better condition that this one for less money, but anything that can be cleaned up and made safe is fun to drive. This car will never be invited to Pebble Beach anyway, so drive it around town like I do with my 901 and enjoy the high fives and waves from admiring folks at local shows and just have fun. I saw a 1932 12 cylinder car open car at Hershey last year for $1.3 M, and I suspect it was no better to drive than my under $ 50,000 sedan. Parts for these cars are expensive, and this one may become parts for some open car like so many others. One thing about Jay Leno, is that he appreciates all of them no matter what level or condition, which is good for our hobby.
  7. Some sellers make it easy to walk away. Too many good cars to even look at this one.
  8. Looking for the painted front frame rail cover left side for 901, likely the same as all 900 series.
  9. Could not agree more, take them out and show them, even to local restaurants etc. We do a drive in at a local bar-b-que joint every Tue. night, just show up. You will be amazed how many people come by to see the 40 to 50 cars that randomly show up each week. People love my 32 Packard and take photo's standing in front of it. No telling how many kids get the bug, or where. We are responsible for the future of this sport, even if it is a hot rod Honda Civic with a bumble bee muffler.
  10. Yea, this is definitely an old school kind of place in Conway SC. Everyone there should have retired 10 yrs ago. They had maybe 150 blocks on the floor, and 50 crank shafts hanging from the ceiling. They do a lot of local race track kind of stuff, along with big diesel farm tractors. He said he has done several Packard Straight 8 blocks over the years, but most were cracked from freezing up north. Fortunately mine is a CA. car, then to Fla, then to Minn. but must have had antifreeze, because no sign of abuse. He charged me $ 30 to install a new ring gear, I could not get the money out of my pocket fast enough. This car was in West Petersons family, so pretty well cared for prior to my ownership.
  11. I don't know guys, if it is worth fixing, then it is worth fixing right. Bore and sleeve is the way to go. I just did my 901 Packard and it only cost $ 1,000 to soak the cylinder block, bore and sleeve back to standard dia. Egge had the pistons on the shelf, and I was back in business in 2 weeks. Fooling around with a hone is OK, but having perfect bores is more important to me.
  12. IT is not a 32, wrong dash. It is a 31, and yes it is way too much for that car in that condition. $30K buys something drivable and presentable.
  13. The term "rare", should only be used to describe a steak.
  14. Got some rainy day specials for my Packard, all the vendors I bought from were happy to have any business on Thursday, even rare parts.
  15. No doubt that the wood was painted prior to assembly, at least primer or what was back then called "red lead". Take a razor blade cutter like an exacto knife, and see if there are any chips that can be removed from the crack. That might tell you if red lead was used to paint the wood prior to its original assembly. It would likely be there to protect to the wood from moisture. Red Lead was also available in a putty form to close gaps for assembly just like this. However as you point out, the dissimilar materials will expand and contract at different rates, so the only solution it to dissemble, repair the gap, and paint both items separately, then reinstall, which I would bet is how it was built originally, and live with the crack that will inevitably occur. If you want to seal it with sealer, then I would use 3M 5200 which is paintable. Mask both sides with fine line tape, and use the least amount possible. Run your finger down the seam multiple times to remove all but the necessary filler. When you remove the tape, then run your finger down the seam one last time to smooth out the tape line. It will dry in 24 hrs. and stay for years. However personally, I would live with the crack.