Dennis Hagen

Ok, here was my solutions. On my 51 convert I purchased a 53 hood and hinges from French Lake auto parts in Mn. I reworked the 51 hood. It was a little bit of messing around and fitting the hinges but works well. I had to remove the under side braces from the 53 and weld them to the 51 hood essentially I upgraded the 51 to a 53 front opening, On my 52 woodie I put in four linear actuators that raises the hood straight up 24” that was pretty easy and I have four separate toggle switches so I can adjust the closing at the four corners. I hate the side opening hoods, nothing worse than having the heavy hood come loose from the opposite side clamps and ruining a new paint job. I posted a video of the hood operating a couple of years ago.

This is a little off topic but it includes wheel noise. I detected a clicking sound coming from left rear wheel on left hand turns, I ignored it for a while but decided to put car on hoist and the wheel was loose, this was of course my fault I had a set of wire wheels that I had to use wheel spacers to make work. I have since made longer wheel bolts and seems to have solved the problem. I park it on the hoist so they are easy to monitor, 1000 plus miles since that problem. BTW this is a 51 Super convert.

I see Ben (aka first born) asked me for an update on my 51 Super. This is a little late but I drove the car about 10 miles today. It’s about 70+ degrees in Az and all is good, I didn’t go fast about 60. I have a power steering unit I removed from a 52 and I am cleaning up the parts and getting ready to make the swap, I have large Michelin radials on the 8” wide wire wheels and pumped them up to 40 psi and steers/turns quite easily. I am working on a conversion of a 52 Super to a woodie wagon, going well ready to duplicate the first poplar wood part to hardwood. I made all wood parts out of poplar just to make sure all fit. Had to re-work the read doors to square off the window frames, going well just slow. I also bought a 53 Roadmaster woodie that I have at my summer home in Mn, will be working on that over the summer.

Thanks, that’s how they were originally made. I am capable of making a tool and forming them but it is a lot work for a couple of parts, I am hoping to find some salvageable parts and fiberglass the inside and cover the outside with upholstery material.

I finished a 51 super convert, converting a 52 super sedan to a woodie (that is what I need skirts for) and working on 53 Roadmaster woodie. Wife says do you realize you have 7 Buicks?

Thanks Rusty, that’s what I did on my 51. I put a layer of fiberglass on the inside and covered the outside with the same material as the upholstery and door panels.

1951-53 front seat plastic seat skirts, need both left and right. Anyone have any ideas?

I have a couple of vacuum bleeders and bought a pump tank pressure bleeder. For me it is the best!

I did a firewall mount in my 53 Roadmaster from battlebornbrakes. Bought on eBay, works great and has a 2 stage master cylinder separate system for front and rear.

I will try to answer the replies-questions: The battleborn unit is driven by vacuum and has a split master cylinder, front an rear lines are separate. The master, vacuum “can” and hanging pedal are mounted and replaces the access plate on firewall above steering column. I purchased this unit for my 53 that had a factory Kelsey-Hayes unit that was not working. To Ben: The Bendix unit activated by intake manifold vacuum. When I first did the brake system everything was fine, then after sitting over the summer (at winter home in Az) I had no pedal, replaced master cylinder and bled and was ok, now this fall I have a soft pedal. Car stops but pedal is close to floor, I will do a though bleeding again today and see what happens.

Hello all, I put a “rebuilt” Bendix Hydrovac unit in my 51 Super and am having a hard time keeping air (soft pedal) out of the system. When I first put it in I did everything new lines cylinders etc and it worked ok, seems that letting it set unused for 6 Months causes a problem. I put a battlebornbrakes system in my 53 Buick and works great, maybe that is the way to go?

I recently purchased a 53 Buick Roadmaster Estate Wagon. I am replacing the inner and outer rocker panels (they came with the car) and I think I want to do floor pans also. Any recommendations on where to purchase these? I also need to repair or replace the metal in front of the rear wheel opening.

Thanks for the info, I just got it home and up on the hoist. I was afraid to drive it on with suspect brakes so I used a winch. The vacuum hose to the Bendix unit looks bad so will replace that first, everything worked a few years ago and wheel cylinder’s were replaced but not the master.

I just acquired a 53 Raodmaster woodie. The brake pedal is hard and as I have not rebuilt the master cylinder yet I was wondering if the vacuum brake booster also could be a problem?

Late to the conversation but I did a complete brake job about 3000 miles ago (51 Super) and recently started the car and pedal went to the floor. I had no leaks. I put in a Delco rebuild kit and did a thorough vacuum bleeding and all is well, the only thing I could come up with is the check valve in the master cylinder failed.

Yes! I have a Bendix vacuum booster on it and have driven 800 miles all short trips (15 to 25) miles each with no problems. I called Bobs and they they only sell rebuild kits, for the price I thought it was complete so I must have rebuilt it. Ordered a AC Delco rebuild kit today, not looking forward to tearing into it but at least it is on the hoist. BTY the Affordable EFI is great!

Thanks, luckily I noticed on start up so I wasn’t on the road but I assumed that was the problem also. I bought the rebuilt from Bob’s, any idea if I could get a 2 stage anywhere?

Brake pedal goes to floor, no leaks cylinder full. All new wheel cylinders, steel lines, shoes (purchased rebuilt master cylinder) have driven 800 miles since brake overhaul. Also linkage is working as it should. Anyone have any ideas?

I used 1” wide strips to attach the door panels on by 51 Buick convert. I did it in case I needed to work on the power windows which I did have to do on the passenger side.

I did that on my 56 Buick, I put in a 90 degree brass fitting with a clear tube pointing up about 8” long and can see if any fluid is getting by the seal, so far so good. I did this after I replaced the torque ball and shaft seal, I drained it once and think it was residual fluid in the tube.

I would love to restore the one I have but don’t want to invest anything in it without a title and so far the state is not cooperating. I would buy it but the 3500.00 is too much to get a title.

I have the identical car in my possession, it is dissembled with extra parts all in storage. Car is in Mn. Ran well when restoration started, owner passed before title was transferred.

I am moving along with my conversion of 52 Super 4 door to a woodie wagon. I now am in need of the rear lift hatch glass or a lead on where to find it. I hoped to use the rear window from the 4 door but it is about 5 inches to narrow. My other thought is to replace the windshield and try to cut one from it, I think water jet will work. I replaced the windshield on by 51 convert but didn’t save the old one, darn. Any help will be appreciated.

I agree with first born, I did 12 volt generator an gauges as he said. 6 volt starter worked for awhile then switched to 12 volt hi-torque starter. Bright lights fast crank over then did Affordable EFI and all Is well would drive across country maybe not on freeways.

Hey First Born you asked for an update: After install started right up, did not have to do any adjustments. Removed vacuum line to wiper motor as I now have electric wipers, I thought idle was a little fast and instructions said to check for vacuum leaks and that did it. I have put on about 200 miles and runs cool in 90+ temperatures. Temperature gauge stays below center even after long idle, very happy. I’m heading to Mn and 51 will rest in Az till fall. I plan to convert my 56 this summer.