Dennis Hagen

Another thing to check. Thanks

Thanks for the reply. Mine is mounted under the hood on firewall where a modern booster would be so I don’t think heat is the issue but I will check it with a temp gun. Just thinking the lines run down to original master cylinder on the frame and they go by exhaust pipe, I’ll look into that.

Thanks for the reply. Mine is mounted under the hood on firewall where a modern booster would be so I don’t think heat is the issue but I will check it with a temp gun. Just thinking the lines run down to original master cylinder on the frame and they go by exhaust pipe, I’ll look into that.

I have a 51 and 52. I didn’t like the side opening setup. I have heard of a hood coming off on the highway, my experience was hood coming loose when one side was open and being heavy hard to handle and usually end up with scratched up fenders. I did something radical and made a front opening hood using 53 hinges and latch assembly on my 51 while keeping the 51 hood. On the 52 I am using 4 linear actuators that raise the hood straight up 2 feet, using 4 switches so the hood can be nested down in each corner for a good fit. After new paint last thing I wanted was a lose hood to scratch up the fenders.

I have 1000+ miles since the brakes were done. This happened once before and I backed off the shoes some and bled the system again, I was hoping to get some ideas, thanks for looking.

I have a 51 Buick with Bendix power brake booster. Drum brakes with relined shoes. After about a ten mile drive today and quite a few stop lights the brakes seem to drag. Weather is about 70 degrees. Should I try to back off on shoe adjustment or could it be a vacuum issue? I notice when the car sits awhile I have pump the pedal a few times to make it more firm, once driving I can lock them up easily. Anyone have any ideas?

Looking to buy pair Buick woodie tailgate hinges 1950-1953.

Great find! I found a used set and put them on my 51, I coated the spoke area with Flex Seal and mounted tubeless tires. No problems.

I have a 52 super 4 door sedan that I am making into a woodie wagon. I believe the sedan is 4” longer in the back seat. Interesting the wood was painted but maybe preserved it. My sedan was a California car so no rust. I also have a 53 Roadmaster Estate, too many projects and not enough time.

Well, I still a toilet paper oil filter. Not in use but n ver throw anything away.

I restored a 51 Super convert. Car was complete and the hardest part for me was installing a new top. But as I said the frame was complete. I did put in electric windows and electric top motor. I have to clarify the hardest part was converting the side opening hood to 53 style front opening hood.

Independence Mn but a Az snowbird in the winter (Goodyear). Almost too many cars to list: 51 Super convert 52 Super woodie 53 Roadmaster woodie 56 Century 56 Special 64 Electra 60 Rambler Cross Country 71 Catalina convert 75 Grandville convert

Yes welding the bung in the crossover was a challenge because of where it was, tested my welding skills but I didn’t want to take the pipe off. I dropped the tank to cut a chunk out of the filler tube to add a fitting for the return fuel line. That is one of the pluses of this system, fuel is always moving and taking cool fuel from the tank. Those were the most challenging items to do but I have a hoist that makes it easier to do, the rest is wiring hookups which weren’t too bad except a few under he dash.

I just finished adding EFI from Affordable EFI to my 56 322 V8. When I finished I hit the starter button an it fired right up, no adjustments were needed. This is the second Buick I converted the first was my 51 Super convert, I was tired of carb/choke adjustments, vapor lock issues. I bypassed the accelerator start switch an added a push button, I think I could have made the accelerator switch work but it wasn’t that important to me. I followed Ben’s lead on his 50 to make this swap.

I purchased a Craftsman tool set and tool box in 1970 at Sears Lake Street store in 1970. Use them daily and have got replacements at Lowe’s with no problems.

Great looking car! I put a top on my 51 Super and laid the stapler on the top, mistake. Slid off and landed on right rear quarter panel, back to the painter for repair. That was my first install, take your time and should come out fine.

I purchased my soft vinyl interior (seats and door panels) from Auto Crafters that were on the same street as Lebaron Bonny and was bought by Lebaron I was very happy with the kit. Unfortunately they are gone.

I have a electric fuel pump on my 51 Buick in Az, helped for vapor lock while driving but what also helped I mounted a 4” blower ( like is used to evacuate engine compartment on inboard boats before startup) inside left front fender well with flexible metal duct to bring cooler air to blow over carb. That works well while sitting at long lights or after shutdown. I have a timer on it so you can park and walk away and restart after 15 minutes. The carb sits right on top of the exhaust manifold on straight eights. I have since installed efi on that car that solved the problem but I know some of you want to keep your car as stock as possible but the desert heat gave me any choice.

I have a mirror on passenger door on my 51 Buick that tends to move when door is closed, tried a few things to keep it in adjustment and what is working is a piece of string wrapped in the gap then soaked with super glue.

My 51 Super convert was all hydraulic windows and top. Switched to electric and everything works well.

That looks interesting, but may not work well on the heavy early 50s Buick hood

Ok, here was my solutions. On my 51 convert I purchased a 53 hood and hinges from French Lake auto parts in Mn. I reworked the 51 hood. It was a little bit of messing around and fitting the hinges but works well. I had to remove the under side braces from the 53 and weld them to the 51 hood essentially I upgraded the 51 to a 53 front opening, On my 52 woodie I put in four linear actuators that raises the hood straight up 24” that was pretty easy and I have four separate toggle switches so I can adjust the closing at the four corners. I hate the side opening hoods, nothing worse than having the heavy hood come loose from the opposite side clamps and ruining a new paint job. I posted a video of the hood operating a couple of years ago.

This is a little off topic but it includes wheel noise. I detected a clicking sound coming from left rear wheel on left hand turns, I ignored it for a while but decided to put car on hoist and the wheel was loose, this was of course my fault I had a set of wire wheels that I had to use wheel spacers to make work. I have since made longer wheel bolts and seems to have solved the problem. I park it on the hoist so they are easy to monitor, 1000 plus miles since that problem. BTW this is a 51 Super convert.

I see Ben (aka first born) asked me for an update on my 51 Super. This is a little late but I drove the car about 10 miles today. It’s about 70+ degrees in Az and all is good, I didn’t go fast about 60. I have a power steering unit I removed from a 52 and I am cleaning up the parts and getting ready to make the swap, I have large Michelin radials on the 8” wide wire wheels and pumped them up to 40 psi and steers/turns quite easily. I am working on a conversion of a 52 Super to a woodie wagon, going well ready to duplicate the first poplar wood part to hardwood. I made all wood parts out of poplar just to make sure all fit. Had to re-work the read doors to square off the window frames, going well just slow. I also bought a 53 Roadmaster woodie that I have at my summer home in Mn, will be working on that over the summer.

Thanks, that’s how they were originally made. I am capable of making a tool and forming them but it is a lot work for a couple of parts, I am hoping to find some salvageable parts and fiberglass the inside and cover the outside with upholstery material.