Brooklyn Beer

Nothing special, just a horn for my daily driver 46 Dodge. 6 Volt. If it blows and is period correct I will take it ! Have to rebuild my originals that don't make a peep anymore.

As I get ready to accept a 1931 (titled as a 32) Plymouth PA into the garage I am looking at two distinct drastic driving extremes between winter and summer here in TX. 30-50 degree's in winter but 100 + in summer. Above 90 from mid May through September. I know I have to change out winter to summer trans oil in my 31 Franklin or shifting is a pain. It just gets too thin to spin the trans down at 160 and I change it to 250. Would the same hold true for the Plymouth trans? How about the rear end? Brake fluid. I like DOT 3. what say you ? Motor oil? Yes I know it is between my god and me and outside the extreme temps a Franklin runs at where I use Mobile 1 ,10-40 full synthetic, I stick with conventional 10-30 in winter and 10-40 summer in all my other Mopar flat 6's.. Opinions? I don't know anything about the flat 4. Belt number ? Reading up on the clutch release bearing and it's lubrication. Is this accessed from below the car of through an access cover in the floor?

My first time in a 6 volt application so I guess I will see what happens. A much different installation for sure from 12 volt.

Done and done. Car never even did a full turn before it fired up. Adjust the timing about 4-5 degree's and we are back in business. I had a hunch either the coil or the condenser was going out as twice in the past week she would just shut off but fire right back up after a minute of sitting. Today she would not even fart or cough. In goes the pertronix and she fired right off with no hesitation. Every vehicle made today has the same type of ignition so it can't be that bad.

Been running them in my 12 volt cars with not a single hiccup. This is the first time on a 6 volt positive ground application. I am guessing I shall run the external distributor ground to the battery ground.?

Changing over to pertronix in my 46 Dodge which is still stock 6 volt positive ground. Anything special I need to worry about not covered in the instructions? I hooked up the internal ground wire after removing points but the external ground off the distributor that used to go to coil +, should I connect that to + battery now instead?

I grew up in Blue Point and if my sister who lives in Holbrook is right, you better get ready to hunker down as winter is coming ! Glad to see you got a day to enjoy the beach before the snow comes calling. I snuck the 49 out after all today and just hit a mist coming home. That turtle wax ICE wax and rainX sure did it's job ! The tradition continued !

For the past couple Thanksgivings I have been able to load up some friends and drive us all in a proper style in the big 4 door to the annual potluck fest we have at their Ale House. Sadly looking like this year is a wash out unless the skies clear and the roads dry in a few hours. So I will be driving her in spirit (and using the gravel road survivor 53 Plymouth instead) It is sad looking into the lonely winter garage but tomorrow looks dry and 70 so hope is on the horizon.

Look at the base of the bulb to accommodate that

I had to start fire tonight because it was 52 out Brrrr ha

In TX I am lucky I never have to winterize. We get cold snaps and ice storms but they last maybe a week at most and it is back to mid 50's. Last year zero ice or snow and was a welcome break using the heaters on the 40 degree mornings. But we don't get the beautiful leaf season.

I am kind of wondering what this bulb would do in white light. They have a very good and LONG write up about the bulb https://www.ledlight.com/g18-s25-1158-ba15d-2_6-watt-6-volt-ac-or-dc-non-polarity.aspx Actual Product may vary from picture shown. One product per package unless otherwise stated. 1158 LED Bulb BA15D Base 6 Volt 2.6 Watt G18

Saw very little rust which is what impressed me. But the loose scale and crud left behind I know would not have come out unless I yanked the tube and back flushed, all the while scrapping away as deep as I could get. I am pretty sure when Spring comes back around I will be pulling again to flush out more crap that breaks loose.

what number is the 25 watt quartz halogen? And do they pull more amps then the 1000's?

odd. I see them on my screen. let me try again. See if my handy dandy tube yanker comes out

Interesting. Would they drop the 12 volt to 3 volt. Is the Lumens then based off of 3 volt output? That is a good question worth asking them. I think I will. But just in case I ordered a spare set of regular bulbs as spares. I did not find but one bulb seller that had any in stock.

There has been discussion about these type LEDs on the Franklin club boards as well and some people have said they have not see a giant increase in light over regular bulbs but they are very happy the generator is working a whole lot less. I am guessing with good reflectors they would be better. But stopping the TAX on old wiring surely will save on repairs down the road. I turn on the Trippe Lights and the amp gauge lets me know a good replacement bulb that would be more amp friendly would not hurt. All 4 of these big, bad beauties running is quite a lot.

These the ones your talking about ? 16 LED Ba15 Bayonet 15 mm 6-12 volt These LEDs are suitable for pre war type lamps from the Late 20's to 50's. High and low beam and single. 2500 Lumens 600 ma at 12v +ve or -ve earth and will work from 6v to 12v. Single LEDs are not suitable on resistance dip systems. LEDs give a natural white light and produce a softer beam pattern

Great. I have some of that here as well from the Buick repairs. Concerning lights. Head lights and tail lights. What are the bulb numbers? I would especially like to put an LED out back and need the bulb number. Head light bulb? Just getting things in order so I can get right to work when the car gets here.

OK, I am not a fan of this yellow wire from the coil. What color should this wire be and what gauge?

How did they know it was overheating ? But you can use that as leverage in getting a good price especially if the wife wants it GONE NOW. Sounds like he never learned much about the car to understand the workings of it. I doubt the car was overheating but I bet it was having a little oil get on the cylinder fins making smoke. Ask me how I know. The club has the best support I have ever seen with a club. I need to change out the valve cage gaskets on mine to stop some of the oil leak that was leading to smoke (overheating ? NOPE). Just common leaks that crop up with them. I also need to change out the lifter tube gaskets that leak (No smoke) . I am looking forward to really getting into the top end of this car once weather craps out and I can swap cars around and get her in my little service bay that is easy to heat.

After 30 minutes of flushing it was time to get everything buttoned up. Installed a new distribution tube and it slid in nice. Just a couple good whacks to set it. Did not feel any scale holding me back. Flushed the radiator and put everything back together and off for a 20 mile ride. These results pleased me and when I got home I laser heat checked the back to front. Every spot was within 3 degree's of each other and not the 30 + the back was showing. I am sure there is more scale that will break loose over time and come spring I will be running the evapo rust again. But for now I am very happy with the results of my 1700 dollar car that everyone gave up on because of over heating

So hooked the garden hose to the heater hose up front and let her go for about 20 minutes. All the while I was using my handy tool to scrap away. After about 30 minutes of flushing and scraping the water started running clear of debris and crud. But oh what came out ! I think I found the main overheating problem. Did the evapo-rust break things up? I don't know but all this crud was coming pretty easy. Note all of this was in the motor but a lot of it was for sure. Not the size of the darker pieces !

After just a few cranks it popped out! And I do mean popped out! It shot 3/4's of the way out. Goooo evapo rust ! The tube looked to be in very good condition. I suspect it was replaced when the first people got the car from the original owner in 2009 in an attempt to fix the overheating problem. But it sure was heavy. Wait, what is this inside the tube. Yep. BIG scale chunks and flakes. I can only imagine what is stuck inside around the tube. So now time for a good flush