michealbernal

NAPA has a black woven slip on wire covering that is very close to the original material in looks. It is available in various inside diameters.

I bought some clamp on side view mirrors that go on the wind wings, that way you don't have to remove the hing pins. They are the same size as the ones that go on the hinge pins.

Before throwing more $ at this problem you might consider calling the manufacture of you current coil for it's specifications. What type of spark are you getting at the spark plugs? Is it a hot blue spark or something else? I think there was an original coil on ebay a couple of weeks ago. It may still be listed.

They appear very similar to a Smith and Wesson or Peerless hand cuff key. I wonder if one of those would work until you found an original. Hand cuff keys are like fifty cents at a uniform shop. If you have a police officer acquaintance ask to borrow his/her hand cuff key for comparison.

As it was explained to me a long time age " oil is relatively cheap, engines are not", change it early and change it often. All those small pieces of metal and grit you could not clean out of the engine when you rebuilt it are floating around in that oil. Drain it out and get rid of them.

Does any one out there have a starting crank for a 1928 Standard that they would be willing to part with for a fee?

What an amazing project. This is the kind of thing that keep you young, keeps you thinking, using your brain. Don't stop.

Ok. with fuel dripping out of the air intake you may assume fuel is getting into the cylinders. Is it possible the you have the timing 180 degrees off? When #1 cylinder fires are you sure it is on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke?

Although you may have put fuel into the vacuum tank, is that fuel getting into the engine? Is there fuel in the carburetor float bowl?

Dracenroc and Grimy, thanks for the photos and info. Mike

My 1928 standard 4 door does not have any pull strap/grab handles for the read seat. Since the car was restored when I bought it I am not sure if it was supposed to have them but they got left out, they were an aftermarket accessories or a dealer accessories. Having a set of them would make it much easier to get into the back seat. Can someone supply a photo of these and tell me if they were original? Any info appreciated. Thanks

Mark, thanks for the info. I replaced the water pump and hoses a couple of months ago because the pump shaft was seriously eroded due to a leak at the packing gland. The suction hose is not collasping . The car had been restored 30 plus years ago and driven about 3,000 miles but was then parked and had been sitting the past 20 plus years undisturbed so it has a number of issues to be sorted out and I am slowly working my way thru them.

Hurbert 25-25 and 27 donb I thought the reason the car was heating up was that the fan belt was too loose. That does not appear to be the problem. I took off the radiator cap while the engine was running and noted bubbles coming up in the coolant. I think I probably have a head gasket out at the very least. Thanks for the info on the fan belt tension. Mike p.s. I did have the fan hub bearings replaced the sealed bearings.

What do I set the fan belt tension at on my 1928 standard? The engine has the flat fan belt. I have searched repeatedly thru my numerous reference books for some indication of what the belt tension should be. The only thing I have found is that it should be "tight". I didn't find that very useful. I don't want to get it so tight that it brakes the belt or so loose that it slips. Any info appreciated.

Tiny Bult, North 8301 State Highway 89, Whitewater Wisconsin 53190, 262 275 6403, tonybuick272829@gmail.com did a good job on my 1928 Standard Marvel. He has the parts including a replacment for the ever problematic pot metal venturi

Herbert 25-25 So I went out to the barn and climbed up into the attic where my dad had hung several complete harness sets at least 65 years ago. I brushed the accumulated dust off and measured the thickness of the leather. On the "tugs" which are the parts that transfer the horses pulling force to the object being pulled the leather is a good 1/4 inch thick and in three layers and stitched at 1/2 inch intervals along their entire length. Next I measured the thickness of the leather on a set of reins and found it to be 3/16 inch or less. Be aware that different leather making processes result in very different leathers depending on what characteristics are desired [toughness, limberness, hardness], My suggestion would be to go to a good saddle maker and consult with him about appropriate leather for this project Mike.

Hugh, Thanks for all the help, I will give them a call. I tried the testing the two valves by sucking and blowing on them and they are both holding. I suspect that the missing ring has something to do with why my tank is not functioning correctly. Thanks again. Mike

Herbert 25-25 I am full of blue mud clear up to my ears. That small cup shaped piece with the hole in the center goes under the atmospheric vent tub NOT as I wrote, under the vacuum line. It is the part you labeled "vent(ring below) on the postitnote on the photo. Anyway that ring is missing from my tank. I would assume that is at least part of my problem. Do you have any idea where I might be able to obtain one of these rings. Thanks again Mike

Herbert 25-25 I was able to get back to my vacuum fuel system today. I found that the small chip on the inner tank flapper valve did not effect its sealing capabilities as it was outside the sealing surface. I performed the water and suction tests on it and it held fine. I then disassembled the vacuum inlet portion of the tank top. I noticed that my vacuum inlet did not match the photos provided. There seems to be a part missing. In the photos there is a small cup shaped metal disk with a hole in the center just under where the vacuum line attached to the top of the tank. I did not find that disk in my tank. My tank is a model "N". Did they all take this disk. It appears to be an upper seat for the vacuum valve maybe. Any info. appreciated. Thanks. Mike

Hubert 25-25 and crazyfamily. Thank you so much for the diagnosis info. I would have never figured that out without your help. The bakealite valve on the bottom of the inner tank has a small chip out of one lower corner. I think that is at least part of the problem. Does anyone make a replacement for that valve or is there something that can be substituted? Thanks again for all the assistance. Mike

In bought a rebuild kit for my vacuum fuel system and installed it. I cleaned all the rust out of the tank and put it back together but it doesn't seem to be working. It is getting vacuum. This seems like a pretty simple system. How does one go about diagnosing what might be wrong with it? Any info appreciated.

Hugh, thank you so much, I never would have found that section of the parts book with out your help. I didn't find it listed anywhere in the index. Thanks again. Mike

Hugh, thanks for the information. I do have the 1916- 1932 parts book but I did not find the section you refer to. Can you please tell me what pages you found the information on? The book is not the easiest thing to use or maybe I am just kind of a numb skull. Thanks again. Mike

Hubert _25-25 I got your additional emails thru my yahoo account but when I tried to respond to you thru that account it would not take my response. Anyway thanks for all the additional research. The starter seller also has a generator listed that is the correct Delco model for my car. I have been negotiating with them on the generator price. They live about 100 miles from me. If I can get a better price on both items I will drive over and get them. Should save substantial on shipping. Thanks again for all your efforts. p.s. How did you come up with all that info? My master parts book only says something like "see Delco Parts book" but I do not know of such a book. I think it would be a tremendous resource. Could you please tell me the full and exact name of your Delco parts book and also where I might obtain a copy? Thanks again. Mike

Hugh, thanks for the info. I'll pass on it.