michealbernal

The tag on the starter on my 1928 Standard says that it is a Delco model 725 A. There is a Delco model 725 D starter for sale on ebay. Can anyone say if these starters are interchangeable. I would like to have an extra starter on the shelf in case mine goes bad. I have found that you can not just walk into Autozone or Pep Boys and get one of these off the shelf. Any information appreciated. Thanks

I had the exact same problem several months ago with my 1928 Standard. I was finally able to get mine loose by pressing up on it and rotating it clockwise and counter clockwise numerous times and after much cursing and swearing it finally came loose. I not sure which helped more the back and forth movement , the upward pressure or the cursing.

I have had this persons business card in my rolodex for ever. I have never used him but you might give him a try. The card says Al Suehring, flywheel ring gears, 1000s in stock, 715 677 3809, 10058 Krogwold Rd., Amherst Jct. Wi 54407.

The front seat on my 1928 standard model 27 is not adjustable as far as I can tell. At 6 ft 4 in with size 14 feet it is kind of a job to jamb my 72 year old self into the drivers seat. I moved the steering column as far forward as it will go. Has anyone tried re positioning the front seat to the rear a couple of inches? Is the front seat back frame secured to the door pillar post? Is this some-kind of huge job or can it be done relatively easily? Any suggestions or information appreciated.

Rod, I have the exact same lite on my 1928 Buick Standard model 27. Mike

The front window moldings on both front doors on my 1928 Standard appear to have been affixed to the door with some kind of duel counter sunk head post screws. I can find sources for single counter sunk head post screws but not duel counter sunk head post screws. Is anyone one aware of where I might find duel counter sunk head post screws?. By duel counter sunk heads I am refereeing to both the screw head and post head being counter sunk. I could use single counter sunk head screws but that just wouldn't be correct. Any info appreciated.

Old26Buick and Terry Wlegand; Thanks very much for the help. In looking back through my old issues of the Bugle I found an add by BCA member #28707, Gary Wallace in the April 2006 magazine for reproduction visor brackets. I called him and he said he was all out presently, but was having another batch made and expected them in about 2 months. I asked him to please put me on his list and notify me when they were completed which he graciously agreed to do.

McCargar and C Carl, Thank you, I got it now.

When I bought my 1928 Standard I found a set of window shades on the back floorboard. They were completely deteriorated from age. I ordered a new set from Lebaron Bonny and in due time they arrived. Recently I went to install them. I found each one contained two things resembling black boot laces rolled in with the shade and two large tacks about 1/2 long . It appears they may be some kind of guides but I cannot figure out what to do with them. I called Lebaron Bonny for assistance and was told " we just sell them, we don"t make them" I examined the both the new and old shades and they all have a small screw eye in each end of the bottom wood dowel. I assume the boot lace things get tied to them but then what? Do they get attached to the roller or bracket some how? Does any one know what I am talking about and what I am supposed to do with these "boot laces" and tacks? Any assistance appreciated.

Does anyone know if there is someone out there who has reproduced the visor supports for the 1928 Buick? I could fabricate some but I think they would look kind of hokey. I have the visor but no supports.

50jetblack Terry Wiegand Thank you both for the insight in how the fuel gauge operates and problems to look for. I really appreciate your time. Mike

The gauge is in the dash.

The fuel gauge on my 1928 standard does not seem to be working. The tank has about 2 inches of fuel in it. Is more fuel required to get it to register? How does that type of gauge work. Any info appreciated.

I disassembled the vacuum tank today and found that what appeared to be a paint chip lodged under the valve seat of the vacuum valve. I removed it,reassembled and reinstalled the tank. It seems to be working fine now. Thanks again to everyone for your help

WE DID IT, WE DID IT, WE DID IT. My problem is the vacuum tank. As soon as I disconnected the vacuum line to the intake manifold it started up and ran fine, no more flooding. While running, if I reconnect the vacuum line it runs about 10 seconds, begins to load up, floods out and dies. Thank you to all, especially Hurbert 25-25, Rod W and dibarlaw. I could never have done it without your help. Now, can anyone tell me how to remedy the problem with the vacuum fuel system. I rebuilt the tank using a kit from Bobs. What else do I need to overhaul to get the system to work properly. Any info appreciated. Thanks Mike

I bought a replacment float from Bobs and installed it. It seems to be working because the fuel level stays constant, I installed a new air spring and set the tail clearance. I took the unit completely apart and cleaned all the parts thouherly. I installed all new washers and gaskets. I set the float level at 9/16 in. The new float seemed to help some in that now instead of fuel pouring out of the air intake it just drips.

Dibarlaw, I am having the exact same problems with a Marvel Carburetor on my 1928 standard. After the car runs for a very short time fuel begins running out the air intake and the engine overloads on fuel chokes up and dies. Please explain more about how you how you set a fuel level and marked it inside the bowl. My thoughts are that the fuel level is still too high and the engine vacuum is sucking the fuel out of the low speed jet.

Tinindian, Thank you so much, that did it. Mike

The dome light bulb on my 1928 Standard model 27 has burned out. How do I access that bulb? The light cover appears to be held in place by a very elaborately decorated trim ring . I tried gently prying on the ring but it did not want to release. I don't see any screws holding the trim ring on. Since the car was restored when I bought it I have no idea how to get to this bulb. I don't want to ruin the headliner, trim ring or bulb cover with some hanhanded approach. Can anyone provide any insight? Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks Mike

I suspect that the float is at least partially saturated. I ordered a replacement from "Bobs" today. We will see how that works.

Today I found that at least part of the problem is due to a leaking fuel flow needle valve. Is any one out there reproducing them? Is there a source of good used needle and seats?

Thanks to everyone's help I got the Marvel carburetor on my 1928 Standard rebuilt and installed. It ran great for a while but now it has started flooding. After I start the engine it immediately begins to run rich until after running about 20 seconds it stall out. A that point fuel is dripping from the air intake. I tried readjusting the float level but that did not make any difference. The fuel level is not overflowing the float bowl. I tried closing down the needle but that didn't seem to make any difference. Can anyone provide insight into what the issue might be? Any insight appreciated. Today I got a chance to work on my carburetor issues again. I removed the float bowl cover and turned the float level adjustment to the end of its travel. That left about 1/4 inch of fuel in the bottom of the carburetor fuel bowl. I started the engine but it immediately flooded out with fuel running from the air intake. The vacuum tank seems to be working properly in that it is pulling fuel from the fuel tank and delivering it to the carburetor. Is there some kind of test to do on the vacuum fuel system? I wish I had Supermans x-ray vision so that I could look inside the carb. and see where this fuel is coming from. Since that probably is not going to happen can anyone provide any insight into what might be going on here?

I am using the original vacuum tank for fuel delivery ti the carburetor.

Thanks to everyone's help I got the Marvel carburetor on my 1928 Standard rebuilt and installed. It ran great for a while but now it has started flooding. After I start the engine it immediately begins to run rich until after running about 20 seconds it stall out. A that point fuel is dripping from the air intake. I tried readjusting the float level but that did not make any difference. The fuel level is not overflowing the float bowl. I tried closing down the needle but that didn't seem to make any difference. Can anyone provide insight into what the issue might be? Any insight appreciated.

Terry Wiegand, what a great idea. My partners uncle owned the Buick dealership in Gilroy Calif. in the 1930s and 1940s. Gilroy is a small city about 10 miles away and my partner was raised there and she has root extending way back there. I will go to the Gilroy City Museum and check out the old city directories to determine what the exact name of the dealership was and see if they had a unique logo and have a cover made up with that on it. Thank you