Bill Stewart

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Everything posted by Bill Stewart

  1. Pete, thanks for responding. (I assume that's your 36 coupe.It looks great!) On my original car, the main body of the dash that is not woodgrained seems to be a lighter color than the black outside body color. The instrument cluster, glove box door and all window garnish appears to have that same lighter black for the base color before being woodgrained. Perhaps I'm being mislead by the many years of fading. This is not exactly an earthshaking issue. It will come out close enough. It won't be pink or tiger striped. If you have a close-up of your instrument panel, any chance you could post that? Thanks again. Bill
  2. Somebody out there must know whether the base color (before graining) of 1936 garnish molding should be a saturated black or something softer looking, more like slate. It can be hard to describe that kind of thing but I hope somebody will give it a shot.The graining ink color seems to be a medium gray. Any guidance will be appreciated.
  3. My "new" 36 Roadmaster has garnish molding that has been painted very shiny very black like the outside of the car. I intend to apply the appropriate gray woodgrain pattern. I have original garnish samples from another car, but, of course, they have changed a lot over the years. The black seems much softer, more of a slate color. I can hardly believe that it was originally brilliant black. Any thoughts?
  4. My 36 Roadmaster has an intake manifold that is obviously not a 36. The part # on the casting is 1287841. My Master Parts List covering 1928 thru 1946 does not show that number for any year. It does show #1399778 for 1936. Anybody know what I've got?
  5. Carl, Thank you much for your great ideas. Who knew about accumulators!? I'll be reading. I'm a great fan of Amsoil. My car is a 1936 Roadmaster which is in heated workshop in Michigan's long winter. I'll be contacting you directly. thanks, Bill
  6. To most of you---I do take your point. It's likely that most of our cars will not be driven enough to justify the bother or expense. And as Ben notes, we won't be here either. The preluber idea was more of a last little detail, something that feels good. I don't plant fruit trees for myself anymore but I might for other people. I do buy green bananas. Bill PS Morgan, I'm older than my 36.
  7. Many or most of our engines DO have pressure lubrication to bearing surfaces and they have flat pushrod ends and valves. The good feature of prelubers is that they pump oil everywhere in the lube system before any part starts to move. At least one manufacturer of prelubers suggests that as much as half of engine wear may occur in the first few seconds after startup ---(a self serving opinion, I am sure). Seems like it would be nice to guarantee good lubing without removing plugs or setting up to crank engine without starting it. I've never had any "lubrication problems" either, but it does seem easy to flip a switch for a few seconds before starting just in case it may really matter. I think I'm sorry I brought his up.
  8. Many of our engines stand for months between startups. Concerns are often expressed about oil that may be too heavy when cold or that simply take too long to reach critical places in the engine when first started. I have not seen mention of prelubers anywhere on this Forum as an answer to dry startups. I have been told that they are fairly common on diesel truck engines. I had one on a diesel auxiliary sailboat engine. In about 30 seconds oil pressure was raised to normal operating pressure before touching the starter. Gave me a good feeling. No clatter at startup and a nice mental picture of oil on every critical bearing surface! I realize that there is a lot more pressure and stress in a diesel----but still?
  9. Wonderfully clear and detailed responses. Thank you very much!
  10. I recently acquired a 36 Roadmaster that spent the last about 35 years in a museum and in very inactive storage. One spring shackle was an old fabricated replacement that immediately fell off the car. It is clear that the side pieces had been twisting on the pin, chewing up the ends. None of the pins will accept grease and all are seized in place. It would be nice if the pins were just straight instead of being threaded in the sleeves and expected to turn! I have soaked them in penetrating "rust buster" stuff, tried to twist them (not too hard) with a bolt in the zerk thread, tapped them (fairly hard) on the ends. I think i will need to remove the springs and press the sleeve out (with pin in place) or weld a nut on the end of the pin and thread it out of the sleeve. But the pins and sleeves are hard to find so i don't want to destroy them. If somebody has an idea that would make this easier, and hopefully save the pins, that would be great! Bill
  11. Sounds perfect. Who knew it would be so obvious? Thanks.
  12. someplace I read about redoing the crackly paint on 36 heaters but now can't find the info or the product. Can anybody help?
  13. Paul, I'm VERY interested. I hope it's not a hassle. Any way of sending it would be fine with me. Thanks Bill
  14. Thanks everyone. Paul, I'm surprised there are apparently so many complications involving "trunk fit out on 36 Buicks". Can you say what they are? Will there be an article somewhere?
  15. I have the proper fabric for the interior of the trunk but I don't remember the way the factory placed the pieces. Does anyone have a picture of an original trunk interior or one that was done as original? Car has sidemounts, so no spare tire shelf. Sure would be appreciated.Text or email would also be fine. Bill Stewart 231-675-3534
  16. I have one---not as pretty as the one in the picture. No significant rust, minor dents, several fins bent slightly. I'm going to Hershey. Call me between 10:00 a.m. and 10:00 p.m. Bill Stewart 231-675-3534
  17. I did also use Captain's varnish. It's very good. You'll be happy.
  18. I did the exterior varnish on my 43 year old sailboat every year for about 20 years. In order to stay perfect it needed to be done every year. I kept track of the latest tests in Practical Sailer (like Consumers Reports) and used the best stuff from major manufacturers. I ended up with Epifanes products, one of which is somewhat golden hewed but another (I think "Clear Gloss") is almost water clear. These are the only varnish type (urethane) finishes I found that will do 2 years out in the sun before starting to "lose it". In spite of our attachment to old things, none of the authentic old type finishes will match this performance. The slightly golden colored one, I think, adds something positive if not added to too much over the years. Keep in mind that your car will not be out in the sun, on the water, for months on end. Your wheels should look great for many years.
  19. I have confirmed that the flywheel is in the correct position by using the method for manually timing in the 36 shop manual. ( starting with the position of the #3 exhaust valve, turning the flywheel slightly, the timing marks end up in the window, something that could only happen if the flywheel is in the right place) Now I just need to get my fuel pump. Thanks for all the other ideas and methods. It all goes into useful general info.
  20. hchris I've brightened the timing marks and can actually see if I try hard enough. I will need to do as you suggest to see if the timing marks are in the right position. Do I ever hope the flywheel is where it should be! Thanks much! Bill
  21. Robin, Now that would be kind of a nightmare.....! And it sure would explain why I had not been able to see the timing marks in the window! .....And that it runs so rough over 20mph. I had thought of the flywheel position earlier to explain the rough running but convinced myself that I used old marks that were on it to replace it properly. I Can't really imagine not positioning it right. To me, the engine seems to suffer from irregular spark, not physical out of balance. It just doesn't have the rhythmic feel I would expect from an out of position flywheel. I will have to wait till my fuel pump is returned before starting the car. Some parts in rebuild kits for the fuel pump were incorrect (very annoying and seems to happen often) so I gave in and sent it away. I can hardly imagine having to take the engine out again, but your thought may turn out to be very perceptive. Bill
  22. Thanks for all the helpful responses. I have highlighted the timing marks with special emphasis at TDC and 10 deg. but I can't see them even when the engine is stopped with the marks in the window. The placement of the window allows me only a view of the ring gear. I used a 12v. light source with the timing light but simply can't get lined up for a view of the marks. Two of my friends who claim to be intelligent can't make this work either. (But they are Packard guys, so who knows). Is it possible that the view window is actually somewhat out of place? Just as I'm writing this it occurs to me that I can extend the marks out onto the ring gear where I can see them in the window. The idea of getting the marks and a pointer at the dampner may be the most straightforward solution. Use of the vacuum gauge is a new idea to me. I'll sure do that too! Many thanks! I can't try this till a fuel pump repair is completed. Bill PS To answer hchris, carburetor is rebuilt (also tried another carb), also has new points, spark plugs and wires, coil. No vacuum leaks. Good compression. I got to the distributor by default, I guess. Any other ideas would be welcome!
  23. Thank you Dave. Your comments are helpful! I like to understand how things work even when they don't need fixing (yet). My newly rebuilt engine runs terribly rough over 20 mph. The distributor seemed to be the culprit but i couldn't figure out why. I had it all apart, cleaned, and could find nothing wrong. It just came back from Advanced Distributors where the advance was recurved (just as you suggested) so I do not need to do the calibrating with a timing light that you suggest. However, trying to time the engine drives me nuts. I literally cannot see the timing marks through the dinky opening down behind the starter and oil filter, even standing on my head, using a mirror. How do people time this engine?! Thanks