Bill Stewart

Before removing my harmonic balancer (36 Roadmaster) I noticed that it was free to rotate slightly on the crankshaft even though the bolt was fully tightened. (checked that at 110 lbs). Obviously the key was not a perfect fit, but I also expected the bolt and washer to tighten on the balancer, not on the end of the crank. Does the key do all the work involving rotation and the bolt/washer just keeps the balancer on the shaft? Should I add a thin washer either behind or in front of the balancer that would result in compression on the balancer instead of the end of the shaft? Any info would be much appreciated.

Thank you very much. Even though few, if any of us, are likely to dismantle or fix these things ourselves, I've been curious----thanks again.

I recently sent the harmonic balancer for my 36 Roadmaster in for "restoration". I believe that means removing the original parts (springs, weights, and ?) to be replaced with silicone. I'd like to see what an original 36 balancer looks like inside and I'd like to know how silicone can substitute for the original parts. I have been able to find pictures of newer ones that didn't really show the interior. Any chance somebody has a picture? Seems like there is quite a variety of these things so a 36 or close would be much appreciated.Thanks.

i don't get it. I understand that the hot block and head raises the rocker shaft and opens the lash. But the pushrods also expand, but to a lesser degree because the oil is not as hot as the water. OK. So the hot water accounts for a lot of increase in lash, but a small amount of expansion in the pushrods should make up for some of that. (any increase in pushrod length would decrease lash). Right? Seems to me that we ought to know how to adjust valves at room temperature (no warm-ups, just room temp) that becomes the proper gap at normal operating temperature. I was not able to manage adjustment while running. I ended up adjusting for .017 cold, and then after a run (probably not highway hot) they were .014 to.016) They are a little noisy so I may revisit. Thoughts anybody? i

Paul, Just noticed your post about the rear shelf fabric. I have two originals that I can look at closely in a couple days. Superficially, I know it looks like cotton flannel.

Matt, I realize that i'm resurrecting an old entry but this one of yours is the closest to my problem that i have found. I was removing the needle on a 1936 speedometer when I got a little too aggressive and broke the spindle. I read your pdf article but it does not deal with spindle replacement. I had intended to only clean and carefully lube the speedometer. Dismantling the number wheels, etc. looks like a serious opportunity for me to get in trouble. How hard is it to replace the spindle? I enjoy working on small detail repair and tend to resist sending stuff out for repair but maybe that's the smart way to go this time. Any suggestions? Anyone?

The 36 shop manual shows the entire mechanism and its adjustment in great detail. Being quite new at all this, I would not have been able to do decent (mostly) work on my 36 without the shop manual. You will be happy if you get one. Reprints are available but illustration quality is MUCH better in the originals and sometimes necessary for a full understanding. Good luck. Kinda complicated. Many have been replaced with a button under the dash.

Bobs Automobilia and CARS no longer have the engine paint. Hirsch warned about possible slow delivery and I got impatient so I took a color sample to Ace Hardware. They mixed a perfect match using a paint they order for a local company that uses it on their shop machines. Smallest quantity is a quart. I had them put some in a rattle can. Works great. Obviously I don't know about it's longtime durability. If anyone is interested I can get Ace's product #'s. Added product info-----The stuff is Benjamin Moore SUPER SPEC H.P., Ultra base P22-4B. It is a urethane alkyd gloss enamel. Part of the info on the can says "This rust preventive coating"---and---"metal doors, machinery, piping, storage tanks and equipment"--.

Thanks everybody. Working properly is more important than looking right, so going with the McMaster- Carr washers makes great sense. Somewhere on this forum I read that Fastenal can order something more like the real thing. I will check with them Mon. a.m.

i see this is quite an old post but----has anybody located belleville washers more like the originals? Several people have referred to the ones available from McMaster-Carr but they are much thinner and don't look like the originals. The old ones are thicker and on the crude side. Don't look flexible to me but apparently they worked. The car i'm working on came to me with bolts and flat washers. Maybe that sort of thing accounts for some of the cracked manifolds out there.

I found a Rust-Oleum product that matches the heater color exactly. It works perfectly for touch-up. It does not cover black wrinkle to my satisfaction. The paint is "Rust-Oleum 2X Ultra Cover paint and primer". London Gray (really) satin. product#249857 The Kennedy paint mentioned above by Larry Schramm is the way to go when starting from scratch (bare metal).

Greg, I think the picture of my heater that I emailed you was probably not helpful for you. I am not knowledgeable about 1935 heaters. You may want to consider starting a new topic with your questions.

Greg, if black wrinkle paint is proper for 1935, it is readily obtainable.

Greg, I am mostly computer illiterate and have not succeeded in attaching a picture to this blog. I plan to contact a younger distant relative (better genes) to help me with this. My heater is the larger one available in 1936. I can text or email a pic if you send me your contact info. I'm quite certain that all 1936 heaters were painted with a brown wrinkle paint. Don't know about 1935. Other members may check me on that. See Larry Schramm' reference to Kennedy paint up above in this topic. It is expensive but it seems awfully close in color and I intend to get it. Bill

Wow! Thanks for all the helpful ideas, offers to loan stuff for patterns etc. My fan is almost identical to Ben's. The hub and blades look exactly the same. I will contact Ben directly.

Thanks Larry. The Kennedy paint looks perfect for the wrinkle. It's always risky to count on the color on a computer screen but that looks good too. Has anybody used the Kennedy paint for a heater? Color OK?

My 36 heater is the typical brown wrinkle paint but it needs help. I am able to find only black and I suspect brown is nowhere available. is there a way to color the black paint without filling the wrinkles? Any other solutions?

Thanks. I didn't expect to find blades. I can make em if i can find the rubber. Seems like some rubber gasket material might work but the local auto suppliers don't even know what that is anymore. i am not aware of modern uses for that kind if stuff that might be a source.

My 36 Roadmaster has an aftermarket fan on steering column that has soft rubber blades. The rubber is shot. I haven't found an acceptable replacement. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Good pictures. Thanks. I'm set. Bill

Pete, thanks for responding. (I assume that's your 36 coupe.It looks great!) On my original car, the main body of the dash that is not woodgrained seems to be a lighter color than the black outside body color. The instrument cluster, glove box door and all window garnish appears to have that same lighter black for the base color before being woodgrained. Perhaps I'm being mislead by the many years of fading. This is not exactly an earthshaking issue. It will come out close enough. It won't be pink or tiger striped. If you have a close-up of your instrument panel, any chance you could post that? Thanks again. Bill

Somebody out there must know whether the base color (before graining) of 1936 garnish molding should be a saturated black or something softer looking, more like slate. It can be hard to describe that kind of thing but I hope somebody will give it a shot.The graining ink color seems to be a medium gray. Any guidance will be appreciated.

My "new" 36 Roadmaster has garnish molding that has been painted very shiny very black like the outside of the car. I intend to apply the appropriate gray woodgrain pattern. I have original garnish samples from another car, but, of course, they have changed a lot over the years. The black seems much softer, more of a slate color. I can hardly believe that it was originally brilliant black. Any thoughts?

My 36 Roadmaster has an intake manifold that is obviously not a 36. The part # on the casting is 1287841. My Master Parts List covering 1928 thru 1946 does not show that number for any year. It does show #1399778 for 1936. Anybody know what I've got?

Carl, Thank you much for your great ideas. Who knew about accumulators!? I'll be reading. I'm a great fan of Amsoil. My car is a 1936 Roadmaster which is in heated workshop in Michigan's long winter. I'll be contacting you directly. thanks, Bill