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Old 30's/40's Mopar Nut

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About Old 30's/40's Mopar Nut

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    British Columbia Canada
  • Interests:
    Cars!

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  1. I AM LOOKING AGAIN FOR AN OIL PUMP FOR THE ABOVE. THOUGHT I HAD ONE, BUT THE ALEDGEDLY RELIABLE (UN-NAMED) SOURCE SENT ME THE WRONG ONE AND IS NOT WILLING TO ASSIST ME FURTHER. ANYONE HAVE A KIT OR PART NUMBERS? ANY HELP APPRECIATED!
  2. Hi Jim, Thanks for the offer, but I think I will take a pass. Best, Greg
  3. Hi, Just read this, maybe you have it solved? unlike the modern pinions that use a crush sleeve to set preload, these old Chrysler products use a solid collar between the two bearings. the preload is determined by adding or subtracting shims. I think I torqued mine to 125 FTLBS. (that was some 30 years ago...!) If you have trouble with aligning the holes for this cotter pin line up, remove the nut and file some material off the base. This will change the position of it when tightened. Nice looking car, by the way!
  4. Update...success! I found a 1934 Dodge locally. it has an almost identical setup. One look at it solved the puzzle. Thanks again for your help, Taylormade!
  5. Hi, Thanks so much for the trouble of taking those and posting them. Unfortunately, the pieces and configuration are quite different than mine. I am going to take a few days off and go back to it next week with a fresh start. There is only one way it will go together and work... Congratulations on the fine job you are doing there. By the looks of it so far, you will have a nicely restored '32 Dodge when done! Best Regards!
  6. Hi, Thanks for your reply. Some pictures may be of help, especially if your car was equipped with a vacuum clutch. Thanks for taking the trouble...
  7. HELP! I AM AT A LOSS AS TO HOW THE CLUTCH LINKAGE GOES BACK TOGETHER! AFTER 2 1/2 YEARS, I AM PUTTING THE REBUILT MOTOR BACK IN. I WAS VERY FORTUNATE TO FIND A REBUILDABLE CORE. SHOULD HAVE TAKEN SOME PICTURES. THIS SET UP SEEMS VERY COMPLICATED FOR WHAT IT IS, MUST BE BECAUSE OF THE VACUUM CLUTCH (LONG GONE) AND FREEWHEELING (DISCONNECTED AND BLOCKED OUT). ANY PICTURES OR DIAGRAMS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED! I DONT KNOW OF ANY CARS LIKE THIS IN MY IMMEDIATE AREA FOR COMPARISON.
  8. HI CRAIG, THAT WAS QUICK! THANKS. I DON'T HAVE FEE CALLING, MY NO. IS 1-604-889-5327. CHEERS, GREG
  9. HI, I AM LOOKING FOR AN OIL PUMP. ANY LEADS? MUCH THANKS GREG
  10. THANKS, i FOUND A NEW ONE ON E-BAY FOR 39.95
  11. HI, ANYONE HAVE ANY LUCK REPAIRING A HORN BUTTON ON A 39-47 DODGE TRUCK? MINE IS A 1947. THE BAKELITE IS BROKEN WHERE THE RING GROOVE IS (WAS) THANKS!
  12. Hi, I have a Canadian model 1948 2019 Pontiac which is basically a Chev with a flat head Pontiac motor and Pontiac trim. Same problem. Lots of clips around but I had to make a copy of that rusted out bracket with a piece of thick sheet metal. It wasn't a thing of beauty, but it was covered by the moulding and did the job. Greg
  13. Well, I guess I did...I bought the car, it had not been run for some time, in good faith that the engine had been rebuilt.
  14. Update... Firstly, thanks to all who replied and offered their good advice. I took the motor out and sent it to a reputable machine shop. Turns out that the previous shop could not obtain the correct main bearings. They compensated by grinding the crank (too far) and opening up the line bore to accommodate a combination of Ford and Oldsmobile bearings. The answer to all this was too much clearance with a ruined block and crank. A year and a half ago I was fortunate to find a correct engine. It is all standard, and we now have all the parts to complete
  15. Try John at Carb King. Good guy. http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/
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