David_Leech

In the older diagram, let's replace the ignition switch/coil with a two terminal switch and a seperate coil. From the top down on the drawing of that switch, this is how we will wire it up The top wire is running to the breaker points. Let's connect it to the "pos" terminal of the coil. The middle wire is running to the gas guage. Let's connect it to the "on" terminal of the switch Now we need to supply the new coil with a negative, so we will run a new wire from the "on" terminal to the "neg" of the ignition coil The final wire is coming from the ammeter. This can be traced back down to the battery "neg" if we follow it back far enough. Connect the this wire to the "bat" terminal of the switch. Now, when we turn the switch "on", the coil and gas gauge are all supplied with "neg" from the battery

I am having a hard time following this diagram. Here is how it is on my 28 standard six The battery terminal of that switch will go to battery neg. The ignition terminal will go to the neg terminal of the coil. The pos terminal of the coil will go to the breaker points. The breaker points will go to the condenser and then go to pos ground. STA would go to the starter and should only be active when the switch is in the momentary starting position. It will be inactive after the key self returns to the ignition position. (On a three position switch, yours is only on/off? Both diagrams show the switch as two terminal) If you have a floor mounted starter switch, just leave this terminal unused. In the original coil/switch setup, the ignition wire to the coil was all internal to the component. You can use 14g wiring, it will be fine. Remember, the Lower the wire number, the HEAVIER the wire is

This old 28 was fixed up in 76, went 200 miles and was parked for 40 years after that. I have no history on it before 76 but it must have been in decent shape given what I can see if it. Mechanicals were certainly not touched so I have no idea when or if it has ever been apart

Took hours of work to get the pan clean inside and out. Baffle plates were the worst to clean up under. Combination of industrial power washer and solvent tank to get it clean. The outside of the pan had ¾" buildup on the exhaust side. Ended up using an abrasive wheel to get it off. Pan is sitting drying now with a fresh coat of flat black

Had mine redone for the 28 Dodge. Took it to a good old fashioned family run radiator shop. It wasn't cheap but well worth the cost. Was finished in about a week. Cost $800 Canadian. Go with an industrial core. It has the widest spacing and flat cooling fins instead of the modern zigzag style

Model t with one hand? Aren't you too busy working all the bass akwards controls?

No need to wash the inside of the engine. The oil changed frequently will take care of this. I will be running Rotella T 15w40, I get it very cheap from work (no, not light handed discount cheap, but 2/3 of the price from the big retailers!) And brake parts cleaner is ridiculously cheap there. At this point I don't "want" to open the side cover, though I know I should and likely will. I haven't run the car in almost two weeks and the summer is half over. I'm sure it's pretty bad in there though. I can't imagine valve seal technology was that great 90 years ago. Pics will follow when I get back out to it. On a side note, I am really impressed with my Matco LED cordless trouble light. I misplaced it two years ago doing some house repairs (was surely no where near fully charged), found it recently, used it for a few hours today to pull the pan, and the dang thing is still going strong. I haven't charged it since before I misplaced it.

Ok, now that I have had a shower, it wasn't that bad. Took me two hours using basic hand tools. I spent more time trying to get the perfect bends in my new oil lines to the new oil filter setup. I love the simplicity of this thing. No oil seals, looks like it slings the oil off the crank. Works pretty good, the flywheel is clean and dry!

I have no idea how that ngine had ANY oil pressure. The pickup was 90% blocked. The oil pan had been on for quite a while. There was so much crap built up between the skirt and oil pan, my god. I work on heavy trucks for a living, dump trucks, garbage trucks, this was up there! Wow. So much chisling to find the bolts under 1 inch, yes one bonafide inch of cement like built up crap. Also, there was paper in the oil pan. Interesting.

First oil change by me on my 28. Previous owner changed it before I got it last year. Obviously had no concern for the buildup in the pan. How bad was your engine the first time you pulled the pan? What started as a quick oil filter upgrade (reproduction from Myers, very nice) and oil change has escalated to pulling the pan. There feels like a ton of slime and chunks in there. Engine runs smooth, quiet, no smoke and good oil pressure, so I'm not overly concerned. Also, is there just a gasket under the pan or am I disturbing oil seals as well at the front?

With my new radiator I can barely make the motometer move on a cool day

Decided on a fold way system to make it easy for people to get in and out. I originally planned to screw the cup holder to the floor. Was not an ideal location. Passenger side wasn't doing much and was easily within arm's reach. My second idea was to utilize the existing holes under the dash for the right hand drive steering arrangement. I researched a number of hinge designs before randomly stumbling on these. Eureka! The cutting board was chosen because it was exactly the size I needed, premade, and the others in the set are in my kitchen now. Also needed to bump up my order to qualify for free shipping. I try to drive this car as much as possible so small modifications like this make it just that much more enjoyable! My only rule is I will not make a change to the car that cannot be undone easily and will leave no permanent damage if the next owner chooses to remove it

The wood shelf is actually the smallest cutting board from this set of bamboo cutting boards. I treated it with tung oil.

These hinges were just the ticket! They clamp on one side and screw on the other. I painted them to match and glued felt pads to keep from scratching the paint. They have quite a bit of resistance built in so even with a coffee they hold their position. They allow me to clamp to the dashboard firmly. Can be easily removed without damage

The cup holder is a cheap one I found randomly from Marine Depot. Looked simple and elegant enough for my needs

Installed in a 28 standard six. Purist won't like it but it did not require any drilling or modification to the car. It's too hot not to drive with water accessable, not even safe really. Here is the final product. I will post how I built it below

Amazon Canada and USA are two totally different experiences