David_Leech

I'm looking to make it through the rest of the season before I rebuild it properly. I have had the car two weeks and just got it on the road this weekend. Not much drive time left this year before she goes into storage

The outter shaft nut on my '28 Standard Six water pump came loose and ruined the shaft packing. I tightened it back up but it still leaks too much. I want to minimize down time by repacking the shaft in one go. I can't seem to find any specs on the packing rope such as size and material composition. Short of removing the packing and measuring the pump, then locating the correct packing, which I want to avoid, does anyone know what size and type to use? I have a local industrial seal supply that has every type of sealing rope ever devised. Really big to really fine rope. Any help would be appreciated Thanks, Dave

Most modern cars have known weak points. VW TDI timing belts, Ford Powerstroke head gaskets, Cummins dowel pins etc. Are there any known issues on a 1928 Standard Six that NEED to be looked at or inspected when the car is a new acquisition? I'm not talking regular maintenance making sure fluids are up, belts good, brakes etc), I'm talking hidden killers like oil pump drive chains for example

Any thoughts on using straight Lucas oil stabilizer in the steer box? Readily available and thick as molasses. Apparently you can use it 100% in a modern rear end (though I wouldn't) and considering what the steer box does, being a low speed device, I can't see any down side really

For what's it's worth, this is the mounting on my 1928 Standard Six

As I am working through the various issues with my newly acquired 1928 Standard Six, I am unsure of my spark advance and throttle controls or if they are assembled correctly. They do control the advance and throttle but tend to move as I turn the steering wheel. Also, the levers out the bottom of the steering shaft could be pointing the wrong direction causing them to work backwards. Im new to this antique motoring world. Which direction advances and retards the timing? Right now, you raise the throttle lever up to increase the throttle. I'm not sure at all what the spark advance is doing. Which direction should the distributor rotate to advance the timing? This will tell me for sure which direction to move the lever. From what I can see they might be working opposite of how the controls on the early Fords do so this has me confused Simple question right? I would consult my owner's manual but it has not yet arrived from Myers Early Dodge, and if the levers are infact switched out the bottom of the steering shaft, they will work backwards anyways. Pardon my ignorance, Dave

The Ford mirrors are for 2.25" hinges

These seem a bit useless

I feel like I'm driving with blinders on having no mirrors. I have been looking at what options I have and think the '35-'40 Ford door hinge pin mirrors might be the ticket. What are the opinions on installing these long curved arm ones upside down from the upper door hinge? There are also short straight ones but I feel they will be too far up to be useful. These should hang down into a more conventional location. If I had Photoshop I could see how they looked Thoughts and opinions?

I don't think ANYTHING is straight forward or cheap for these cars. Those Ford fellows sure have it easy sourcing parts.

If I could afford everything I want / need from Myers Early Dodge, I would be bankrupt and they could retire

I cannot back this up, but I believe autogreaser lube will work. It is semi- fluid and thin. I am going to run it in my box

No worries. The car has waited 89 years, it can wait a while more?

I cannot open it either

Please do! I ordered myself the 1914 to 1933 Dodge Brothers passenger car dealer parts book. I was hoping to use it to at least find the original Dodge number. The best I could find for this car is the link below http://shop.rareparts.com/smtp/shopdisplaycategories.asp?iyear=1928&imake=0016|DODGE&imodel=7246|VICTORY SIX&iproduct=0049|STEERING, GEAR, PUMP & COMPONENTS

If anyone else has taken a set apart and has pictures, please upload them. It will make describing this process much easier

This was done on a 1928 Standard Six. Alternatively you can take them to a specialist that rebuilds power brake components like wheel cylinders and Master cylinders. They might be able to hone and stainless steel sleeve your ends back to spec. The bushings I used were bronze. They may not hold up forever, but something had to be done for now. Mine were totally trashed. The ball socket was intact showing very little wear. The bushings had worn into the cast ends, therefore loosening their hold on the ball sockets. The bushings are two half circles that encase the ball end of the tapered tie rod end stud. They do not form a full circle around the ball end. There are gaps between the two halves. I have ordered a parts book and intend to search for new old stock ones. Until then, I will just be sure to keep them well greased.

Sorry I didn't take pictures Disassembled the tie rod ends. Cleaned thoroughly. Found the ball socket bushings had worn into the tie rod ends castings causing the ball socket to be loose. What to do? They aren't available (at least I can't find any) so they must be rebuilt I managed to locate a set of King pin bushings that were almost the correct diameter to press into the worn casting. I believe they were from a Hino truck. They were split bushings. I trimmed them to size with a zip disc and removed the nylon coating. Notched the bushings to accept the locating tab. Next I pressed them into the castings. Perfect tight fit. Now the ball socket bushings would no longer fit the tie rod end castings. I ran the outside of the ball socket bushings against a grinding wheel to bring them to the same diameter as the bushed tie rod castings. They were a tight fit and had to be tapped into place. I drilled through the new bushing from the grease point. Reinstalled the end cap. One of the end caps had to be tack welded on. I located suitable rubber dust boots. Reinstalled and greased them up. Set the toe and took it for a drive. Nice tight front end and I no longer feel like I might die driving it!

I wont be able to post any pictures until Tuesday. I left the car at my work after a long day of getting her sorted out and Monday is a holiday.

Here she is in all her glory. I've only owned it a week so far

I adjust the identical box today on my 28 Standard Six. It had almost a 1/4 turn either direction before the wheels would react to steering input. I was certain it was junk. There are two adjustments to make, you might be surprised. Sector shaft end play and worm gear lash. Sector shaft end play is the adjuster on the inboard side, towards the engine. Worm gear lash is corrected by the eccentric on the sector shaft housing (at the Pitman arm) loosen off the housing bolts and turn the eccentric clockwise to tighten the lash (7/8 wrench). It is at the 12:00 position behind the 5/8 nut. Have the sector shaft end play loosened off prior to this. (3/4 wrench and a flat screwdriver)

Felloe runs true. Rim has likely been damaged by improper tire changing techniques. It is definitely a rim issue. Cannot be corrected with the wedges. Tried forever to get it as straight as possible. It is bent out between wedges, picture the rim with a minor S bend in it. Likely from someone prying on it. Have been setting up heavy truck spoked wheels for almost 20 years and it's not all that different. It's a Hayes Canadian rim with the locking pin to hold the rim joint together. I was going to see if I can massage it back in line using a press once I get the tire off. Was really hoping to find new ones but can't find a thing. Looking at the construction of the wheel rim, I can't see them really being all that straight anyways. Since I can't locate a replacement, I will just have to try to get it true as possible Thanks for the assistance!

Greetings, first post. Picked up a 1928 Standard Six. Working through some of its issues today. It has 19" wood spoke wheels. Right rear wheel wobbles. Spokes are straight. Outer wheel rim has wow in it. Can't swap it with the spare as it has damaged mounting flange. Any suggestions on repair or replacement?