David_Leech

Tie rod end press was the perfect size. The drivers side popped up and I finished it off with a punch. The passenger side, yah, not so easy. I had to press it out the whole way. A series of longer and longer M6 bolts were used with the press. Both are out now. There was zero wear to either pin. The drivers side can be reused if needed, the passenger side was pretty much destroyed

This may fit over the pin head. Tie Rod end separator

You can see the penetrant has started to dissolve some of the rust

The heads of the pins are quite large. I'm going to use a spacer as suggested and see what I can find for a press. I think they will tap out if I can get the to budge

These pins are STUCK. Some mechanical advantage will have to be found

I have the clamp ones right now. Waste of time. I can't see anything and they are too delicate. If you even brush up against them they come loose and loose adjustment. Have not had time to get back to my hinge pins, tomorrow hopefully

I saw those. The issue is the head of the hinge pin covers the whole top of the hinge. Nowhere to mount the tool, it would just push on both ends of the pin. I guess I will see tomorrow after they soak for 24 hours. Will continue to look at other tools and see if something might work

On my 28 standard six, are the hinge pins just really stuck or are they peened over and that's why they won't move? I have them soaking in penetrating oil right now. Can't use heat, don't want to ruin the paint. There's nothing wrong with them, I want to install hinge pin mirrors and want to get them moving before ordering the mirrors Thanks

Is this the same one from Myers? I ordered it along with repair parts. Thanks!

Yes, I tried searching. Is there any downloadable information on the Detroit Lubricator Stewart carburetors? I'm getting ready to tackle finally fixing all the fuel leaks and rough running. Thanks

Looking at purchasing a Hercules rim tool and have a question. What are the differences between a model a, b, and c? Were there other models? My 28 has 19" wheels, are the models just revisions or size indication?

I did semi-gloss. They look better now the paint has dried. Lost alot of the shine

I'm wondering if there will be any strength left to these if I cut the sides out of them?

Wow, the black certainly shows defects!

Fenders have had the worst damage repaired. I'm not interested in making these ones perfect. They have dents, creases, thin spots, and the one had a huge split almost cutting it in half. The other had 2 inches rusted off the front edge. The splits and holes are all welded up. The front edges have been trimmed to match and the edges folded over. They were all warped and I have them squared up again. My theory is a utility trailer would have never been perfect if it was built from scrap parts. These are already a ton better than they were before. I gave them a quick spray to see how they looked painted. I will be brushing on rustoleum (Tremclad up here) and it will be good and thick.

Once eBay shipments start rolling in I can can get building it! Started on the fenders. Some cracks to weld up and dents to fix.

Right from the service Ontario website on registering a home built trailer

Not according to local regulations and the dodge does not have them. Hand signals only

Two used tires sourced through a co-worker. New tires were just too much this year. The only source I could find was catalogue order from the USA to Canada. No one local could help. Drove the prices up far too much for me to justify. Thanks Shelby!

Other than lumber, square nuts, and carriage bolts, all parts are acquired. Next step will be restoring the axle and fenders

This is the trailer hitch I chose. Patent dates on it are 1936 and 1940. It is newer then I was hoping for but I believe it is unused. Look at the casting marks, they have not been worn away by the ball. There were older ones that were considerably less then this one, but they were all in pretty tough shape. A modern hitch was not an option, too out of place. I will of course be using safety chains to comply with local laws

Ball socket for the radius rod. It will be flipped over from the position shown in the picture and embedded into the center beam of the frame by boring a shallow hole for it to sit in.

Local lighting requirements are: One red tail light One white licenseplate light Two red reflectors as far apart as possible Purchased from eBay this working kerosene tail lamp. Has red rear facing lense, clear side facing lense, and a convenient license plate bracket Purchased these reproduction "King Bee" glass reflectors for WWII vehicles. Close enough! Lighting requirements fulfilled!

Frame detail for the build. My radius rod connection will be likely turned around. This is a compression joint, not extension. In these pictures it faces forwards. It is designed to face backwards. My frame will be wood as shown in the last pictures (will not protrude from the sides as this one is). I have the ability to use steel. Wood is a design choice I have made. I just need to respect the limitations of the trailer

Acquired parts so far Compete T front axle with good wheels and all suspension intact. Just needs refinishing and tires. Rough T fenders that will be repaired and cut where required. Not restored to new, but fixed up bit. These parts set my height and width for the build. All I have right now are screen shots from the FB ads. Axle was a bit over 2 hours away. My dad came with me to get it. It would only fit with the passenger seat moved right up to the dash. The ride back was awful! I took the passenger seat, he drove 🙄 Fenders were local