David_Leech

This is the inspiration for this build. The magazine article is the only copy I could find online. Resolution is terrible. If you try, just hard enough, you can make out the words

Building a period trailer for my Dodge, so that's why it's here in this board. It made of model T parts, so I could have posted it there too. I have another thread discussing towing and working through aspects of mounting a hitch that can be found here The goal of this build is for a period-correct (ish) utility trailer that could have been build from plans found in popular mechanics or some other magazine. The use of this trailer is strictly for going to local car shows at speeds not exceeding 35 mph and very little load. It's to haul my daughter's power wheels and lawn chairs to the show

Sounds like the vacuum tank is trying to suck air through the float bowl. I have not been into one yet as mine is functional (knock on wood), but that is the only connection to the symptoms you are describing

I am much happier with the direction my project has turned.

Minimum trailer lighting requirements per local regulations A red tail light A white license plate light Two red reflectors This working kerosene tail lamp and two of these glass reflectors pretty much covers it

Just picked up a couple rough T fenders that I can repair. Will work nicely for my build. These were $75 Canadian dollars for a set (one shown). A few dents and other damage, but still solid enough for a trailer

Price was pretty much irrelevant, the only usable parts I could find. Only a two hour drive each way.

The wagon fell through. Old guy selling it decided to keep it and restore it. Just picked up a complete front end from a model T with beautiful wood wheels. How'd I do on price? $150 Canadian. The spokes don't have so much as a crack in the grain. All strong and tight. It's too dark now for a picture, but this is from the ad. The steering is already locked, I think it has been a trailer in the past

This type of trailer is still used, it's frequently used in heavy trucks, Google "type A convertor dolly". This rear trailer with convertor is essentially the same as a farm wagon with steerable front axle, just hauling quite a bit more weight at quite a bit higher speed. They don't sway if the weight is distributed correctly. Tongue weight theory still applies here. If one of the trailers start to sway, it becomes amplified through the second.

Nailed it!

It's being modified, value in parts only. Likely single fixed axle, same scale as a modern utility trailer

Took me a few hours of power washing to get all the muck out from under the baffles in my 28. High flow high pressure industrial power washer. Solvent tank wouldn't touch it. The stuff was like clay.

Obviously needs a ton of work, but it's all there. 90% of the wood is solid enough to reuse if I can find a way to incorporate it. Value is in wheels, axles and suspension. The seller is bought it from the original owner 45 years ago to restore and never did. Has been in dry storage ever since. It was built in 1905 and everything is original. Hubs have bearings, spokes are solid, wheels turn. Anyways, lots of possibilities. Will need to take everything apart and assess how much can be reused. At least one axle worth of parts and two spare wheels. I'm sure there are better starting points but not local to me. Just need to get it dug out from its resting place. It's pretty burried right now

This might work well. I will have to see what is available for mounting points. I'm set in my belief that I cannot make any permanent changes to this car. I'm only it's caretaker for now, so I want it to be a reversible modification

I don't have a picture, but what I'm looking at is the remains of a very old horse drawn wagon. Seller dates it go 1905 but I think it's quite newer than that. It has transverse leaf springs and pneumatic tires on wood spokes. Axles are steel as are the hubs. I believe they are 16x4 or 16x6 wheels. Value is basically in the axles and wheels for me to build a wooden trailer on. I will likely swap out the transverse springs for some modern trailer leafs. As a wagon it has had its day. There is little left of the body. The wooden undercarriage and spokes are still solid. It looks as if it was stored upside down. The top has had it but everything else is well preserved. I will have to see what it gets built into once I find out how much can be salvaged (if only two wheels are serviceable etc). Ideally I would use a T axle, but they aren't exactly common anymore. This picture is what I fell in love with. I want a variation of the one in this picture with either one or two axles and big enough for the power wheels and a few lawn chairs. The hitch (pun intended) in my plans was how to couple the two together. Thanks for the ideas on the long draw bar hitch. That bumper clamp might work with some padding. Would they have used a ball hitch or pintle back in the 20s / 30s?

Enough of the oppinions on pulling the traler. It has suspension, it has pneumatic tires, it has steel axles with spindles and bearings, i will be building a new frame, it is safe. Does anyone have anything helpful to add on what would have been used for a trailer hitch with a split rear bumper and rear mounted fuel tank with spare tire

They are wood spoke wheels with steel rims and pneumatic rubber tires. They are very similar to what the car is equipped with. The wheels are 16" Not the 36" stage coach wheels you are thinking. It's a flat bed trailer, 4x8, not very large.

This thread is not about the Dodge ON the trailer, I want to PULL the trailer with it. My four year old daughter does car shows with me in our 28 Dodge. Last season she entered her power wheels along side the real car and had a blast. I want to be able to tow her power wheels to the show with the old Dodge, a 28 standard six. I'm looking at an early 1900s wood wagon with wood spoked wheels. Two axles and I think the front turns. Weight won't be an issue. As it will be pretty much empty all the time. I'm curious what would have passed for a trailer hitch back in the day? With a split bumper and a fuel tank in the back, how would one go about attaching one? If you a curious about the power wheels, it's a pink Cadillac Escalade. I'm outfitting it with functioning lights, underglow, 7" touch screen multimedia recieved, upgraded speakers, upholstered seats, gauges, anything a real car has, plus a bunch more battery power to run the electronics

I doubt heat at the rear of the cylinder head is enough of an issue

My 28 runs from the vacuum tank, along the firewall, barely clears the rear of the cylinder head, until it reaches the right side of the car. It stays away from the exhaust. Drops down the firewall on the right to the frame rail. Along the frame rail then darts over to the carb. No high points or loops, just a steady down hill run

Well, it doesn't screw off. Any other suggestions. As mentioned above, there is no lighting switch in the steering column

Will advise how it comes apart once I get at it this evening

28 standard six, likely the same as other models. My horn contact isnt making good contact. I want to pull it off to see why. How do you get it off? I can't see anything holding it on

#3 - save what samples you have. It makes it alot easier to make replacements when you have a template. Depending what you are looking to spend, the interior... Well, it's going to be expensive. You can watch some videos on making your own door cards and whatnot on YouTube. How's your sewing ability? For a professional job, you will need to hire a professional (I bet that's why they call it that). Yellow pages under upholstery. Google auto interior. Go to a high volume used car lot and ask who they use to repair their car interiors. With any luck, you can pretend you work at the car lot and score a discount. You will want to find the oldest person you can that is willing to build a car interior. They will be the best at it. The seats are the same as reupholstering a couch. They should be able to tackle most of the interior bits. If you try to save a few bucks, leave out only the details that could be added again later. If you go with square foam seats you will have wasted your money if you want to go fancier in the future. You can leave out items like door pockets and add them later. If you do it a little bit at a time, have all of one type of item completed at the same time. All seat cushions, all door cards, etc. Don't do the front seat now and the rear ten years from now. They will not match. My .02 and I'm rambling