Dennis Jones

I'm hoping I'll be able to attend. It all depends on whether we will need to make a trip to Texas for some family health issues. What day or days do you plan on being there? Dennis Jones

Such beautiful work. What a true craftsman.

I would like to buy an original 1933 Chevrolet Master Air Cleaner Assembly. Here is a picture of what they looked like.

Thanks for the response JFranklin. I have been looking for something like that but haven't found anything close enough to the dimensions that will fit.

Has anyone got any ideas about how to convert my 33 Chevy air filter element from the original wire to a more modern efficient element? I want to keep the original metal case. I don't think this is the "original" air cleaner. But its close enough that I want to keep it. Just want it to be more efficient. I can't find any Fram, AC, K&N, etc. filter element the same size that would work with my housing. I'm not sure what material I should replace the wire with.

Thank you.

Going through photos today and put this two minute slide show together.

I realize my car is a chevy and also a 1933. But I had a very bad rattle coming from my clutch. After removing the transmission and clutch I determined it was the fork ball support and the clutch fork that was causing the rattle. It was a good thing I did remove it all though as I ended up needing a new pilot bearing also. Good luck with your problem.

J.H. Boland.........Wow, I love your Packard. What a beautiful car. And alsancle, I do use the balancing beads in my motorcycles. They work great. I don't see any reason why they wouldn't work just as well on a car or truck. Dennis

My car is a 1933 Master 5 window coupe. It was probably restored about 40 years ago. The interior is old and not in great shape. I am afraid of destroying it trying to clean it, and I can't really afford to replace the interior at this time. I am not even sure what kind of material it is. Here is a short video of it. I'm open to all suggestions. This forum has helped me figure things out many times and I am thankful. Thanks, Dennis

I like the look of the new black wall tires I installed today. It made a big difference in how it drives. The old tires were 40 years old and hard as a rock and not much tread left on the front tires. I ordered the new tires from Universal Vintage Tire. They are made by Lester Tire Company. The ride is very good, and so far I'm thinking they don't even need to be balanced. I took the car up to 55 mph and there is no tire vibration at all.

Rick Marsh, Thanks for explaining to me the difference in classes. I guess my 33 Chevy would be entered in the DPC class because I have installed a 6 volt alternator on it and those little oval mirrors to see in the blindspots for changing lanes. Oh yes, and somebody prior to me converted it to a rumble seat. Dennis Jones

What do the initials DPC stand for? Dennis

chistech, Yes mine still has the plug on top. I have now added about 4oz. to 6 oz. through that hole in the top. Dennis

It's probably my imagination, but it seems to run a little smoother now. Although I just found out that I "packed" the u-joint wrong when I put it back together. I coated the u-joint in grease before I closed up the torque tube. Now I just found out that I was supposed to fill the torque ball with 160 wt gear oil. I'm thinking that if I remove the speedometer cable I can pump some gear oil in through hole and put gear oil in torque ball that way. In the picture it looks like the oil would flow straight to the torque ball/universal joint. There are so many things about these old cars that I've just forgotten because it's been so long since I've owned one.

Hooray............The 33 Chevy is back together and everything works good. It was a learning experience and I appreciate all of the help everyone gave in answer to my questions. Dennis Jones

Spinneyhill, Yes the engine mounts and the rear transmission mount look almost like new. Tonight I was able to loosen the engine mounts and tilt the whole unit upward enough to install the rear transmission mount. So now I'm hoping nothing else pops up while I'm assembling the car back together. I should probably replace some of the wood that the floor boards and seat rails screw into. But I'm pretty much afraid to tackle that. I don't know anything about wood work. Dennis Jones

Whew, the transmission is now bolted into the car. Although now there isn't enough clearance to bolt the rear transmission mount into the transmission. I'm hoping that if I loosen the engine mounts I can tilt the rear of the transmission up far enough to bolt the mount to the transmission. I tried installing the transmission with the mount already bolted, but it was a no go situation. If it isn't one thing its another. I'm pretty sure the whole problem started because the old crankshaft pilot bearing had been installed cockeyed or crooked and everything was binding. I knew something was wrong from the beginning when I had to use a pry bar to separate the transmission from the bell housing when initially removing the transmission to check things out. The transmission slid right in with no trouble after I replaced the pilot bearing.

Thanks to Harbor Freight. I bought a slide hammer type puller that fit into the pilot bearing and was able to remove the bearing. When the new pilot bearing arrives in the mail I will install it. Then I will install the transmission without a clutch and without the clutch fork. If it lines up and bolts up with no problem then that tells me the problem is either the clutch or clutch fork. I will then install the transmission with only the pressure plate and friction disc. If that goes ok, then I guess the problem is with the clutch fork. So I'm going to take it one step at a time and see what happens. Thanks, Dennis