Dennis Jones

Apparently the cover for my Shift Control Box loosened up and fell off while driving. If anyone has one for a 1948 Studebaker Commander please get in touch with me. Thank you. Dennis Jones (jonda1@msn.com) or message me through this forum. The last picture is of mine without the missing cover.

I have installed the missing clips and added the stock hubcaps. Also making a dent in quieting many of the rattles while driving. The old Studebaker is doing OK.

I couldn't keep the old Studebaker in the garage yesterday. It was just too nice outside. My car is a 1948 Studebaker Commander Regal Deluxe.

I drove my 1948 Studebaker Commander Regal Deluxe to The Time Traveler's Car Club garage crawl in Golden Valley, Arizona. It's just a time to get together and talk cars and projects with good people.

I got to Home Depot early. There was almost no one there. I drove the 1948 Studebaker Commander Regal Deluxe. It ran great cruising at 60 mph on the freeway.

Yes, I was bored sitting at home. So I drove my stock 1948 Studebaker Commander Regal Deluxe to Laughlin, Nevada just for something to do.

Here is a short video of my 33 Chevy Master around our neighborhood. I no longer own the chevy. I now have a Studebaker.

Oldtech........Hey, thank you for this advice. I didn't know the contact plug was supposed to always touch the drum. Thats great. Again, Thank you...Dennis

Waiting on parts to finish the brakes. I still need to order new axle seals. I'm afraid I might have ruined the existing seals when I used a torch to heat the drums to remove them. I also need to figure out how to remove the existing brake linings so I can rivet the new linings on. I guess maybe grind them off. They were bonded linings. The linings look good in the picture, but the contact plugs are worn and rubbing on the drums. I am doing all four wheels.

m-mann....Thanks. I will try again.

Does anyone know the assembly process of installing brakes on a 1948 Studebaker Commander. I can't figure out how to put the self adjuster hardware back together. Thanks, Dennis

My 1933 Chevy Master Coupe was hit in the rear fender. The impact was severe enough that the whole wooden framing was damaged. After about a month of insurance adjusters and a body shop inspecting it was determined the cost of repair was higher than it was insured for. So a couple of days ago I bought a 1948 Studebaker Commander. I got it running today and still need to do numerous other stuff but I am very happy with this car.

Thanks for the input. I will be checking the car out closely this weekend. Dennis

I am thinking of buying a 1948 Studebaker Commander and I am asking how hard are the parts to find for it. I think the car is in good shape. But I know you can never tell about when a clutch or wheel bearings or even engine parts will need to be replaced. Has anyone got any information on parts availability for this car? Thanks for any input. Dennis Jones

I had cabin fever today from being cooped up in the house for so long. So I drove my 1933 Chevy Master Coupe to Kingman, Arizona today just to get out of the house for a while. I got gas at the Safeway gas station and drove back home. We moved from California to Golden Valley, Arizona about three weeks ago and haven't been able to much of anywhere because of the virus going around. Doing our part to not spread this virus around. Here is a short one minute video of the drive. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BIsxzjQ-7r8

Tom, Sorry it took so long to look at this Forum again. I do appreciate you looking to see that you have one. It turned out it wasn't the switch. I installed a six volt alternator on the car and connected the exciter wire to the stop light switch. It was that wire that kept blowing the fuse in the stop lights. I don't understand why it does that. But after connecting it to the switch side of the coil everything works fine. I can't connect it to the ignition switch because the poles on the ignition switch aren't long enough for the extra wire. Again, thanks Tom. Dennis

I need a 1933 Chevrolet Master Brake Light Switch. I'm thinking a 32 or 34 might also work. If you have one please let me know how much you would sell it for and how you would want the payment. Thanks, Dennis Jones

My car is a 1933 Chevrolet Master Coupe and my question is about the clutch fork guide. I'm enclosing some pictures of mine and also the parts book picture. It looks to me like someone has cut some off of the length of it and also has ground down the ridge on the top of it. I'm wondering why only the 1933 Chevy has this part. My car has had a very bad rattle in the clutch linkage, or clutch pedal since I've owned the car. I removed the guide today and tried driving without it around the block. With the guide removed and the clutch pedal depressed it now makes a horrible knocking or rattling sound in addition to what it made before.So I guess it does need to be installed. I was hoping that with it removed it might solve the clutch pedal rattle. Because someone has modified it, it doesn't even extend into the opening in the bell housing which I assume was the function of it. I don't know how much mine was shortened. I will try to find a muffler shop or welding shop who will be willing to add maybe an inch or so to the length of mine. If anyone has one they don't need I would like to buy it. Or maybe someone would be willing to measure theirs and give me the measurements of it with a picture.Thanks,Dennis

I need a "clutch fork guide" for a 1933 Chevrolet Master 207 engine. I am posting pictures of my defective guide. Mine has been shortened and the ridge on top has been ground down. I don't understand why anyone would have modified it like this because its useless in this condition. If you have one you no longer need I would like to buy it from you. Thanks, Dennis Jones

Thanks