Bloo

Studebaker stopped making Studebaker 289s and stopped making their own engines altogether about the same time Ford started making Ford 289s. It's a Studebaker engine for sure.

The original 1948 blue? There are a bazillion Ford blues. Bill Hirsch https://hirschauto.com should have a bunch of them including the original for 1948. It's mostly brush paint. I use @JFranklin 's method for little stuff if I have a matching aerosol can around.

I'm not quite sure what you mean.

As I recall it just replaces one of the pedals. I have only driven three pedal ones. I read all the sordid details about the differences in some book, probably a Floyd Clymer one. That was a long time ago. Someone in here will know though. One thing I do remember reading in a Clymer book was something along the lines of "In 1915, Henry Ford made a little over 300,000 Model T Fords, but only twice that many are still registered". I'll show myself out now... 😛

The earliest T's had two pedals and two levers as controls, rather than the three pedals and one lever we all know.

I have seen this before and it is quite unclear. I came up with the best hypothesis I could, and then compared to the old harness to see if I could disprove it. In an old faded harness, they all look the same, but that may have been sort of true before the fading. I believe there was an unstated default color unless otherwise specified, and it was probably "natural", or maybe another of the brownish hues you see in old harnesses (oak?). For now I am going to guess "natural". If I were doing it I would start with this hypothesis: Wire color is natural unless obviously stated otherwise. Black CR TR = Black crossed tracers. (X pattern) Green TR = Green tracer. Red CR TR = Red crossed tracers. Black TR = Black tracer. Red TR = Red tracer.

Flat lobe? If the cam is bad, then it and it's cam followers (lifters) will have to come out, and be sent off to a cam grinding outfit for repair. Maybe there is a cam grinder local to you? I have had good luck with Delta Cams of Tacoma, WA. It may be possible to get the cam out without pulling the engine... or not. The shop manual may have clues about that. it is not a trivial job. If the cam is removable with the engine still in the car, EVERYTHING directly in front of the engine has to come off. Some prewar cars are designed to take the whole nose off as an assembly. Others you might have to just pull the radiator and grille and maybe headlights or anything else that happens to be in the way. It also might be time to think about whether it is time to pull the engine out of the car and do the whole thing. It can get expensive.

That's exactly the same thing, just without a regulator for convenient control and a gauge to convert leakage air to percent. All I would really add to what VW4X4 said is that unlike valves, the rings will ALWAYS leak enough to make significant noise, so don't interpret some hissing there as a bad engine. If you don't have the regulator you won't be able to quantify how much they leak. That does not matter because a 16 PSI cylinder is 99% not "rings", unless there is a bunch of broken ring lands or a hole in the piston or something like that. It is no doubt a valve problem, and most likely a burned exhaust valve. Always check for tight valves first though.

Great trick, but I think that only works for Timkens, not ball bearings. How old is this Buick?

There are cases where the cam would be compatible, but nothing this new was far as I know. I would expect any high-performance car like this to have clearance ramps that would cause cause the valves to leak and burn, also cause bad performance even before the damage was done. The whole cam and lifter set could have been changed to hydraulic though.

You are probably in a better spot in Los Angeles for custom paint colors than anywhere else. In today's world that may not matter though. The paint ingredients have all changed, so most old formulas aren't much help. What you need to do is find some removable piece of the car that is not faded, clean it up real good, and take it in and get it scanned. Paint is then mixed to match. It looks like an early 50s Nash color to me, not that it makes any difference. I agree with TAKerry that the biggest problem is finding a competent shop to take on a car such as this, assuming you are re-doing the whole thing in your grandfather's color. This is far removed from what most body shops do today. If you are just patching I don't know. I see spots on that car that are in plain view and probably cannot be patched very well. Good luck with your project!

The chips could easily be custom, some of them anyway, and even if basically standard parts are extremely likely to have in-house numbers. On something like a safety device, they don't want you to know. I generally find datadheets just googling. The 3 big aftermarket parts suppliers will usually have a datasheet listed. I refer to Mouser, Newark, and Digi-Key. Usually it's good. Sometimes its crap, Sometimes its the wrong one, sometimes it links to a 500 page corporate catalog you have to dig through, sometimes the manufacturer has redone their site, and the link goes to their utterly useless front page, sometimes the link is dead, and sometimes there is no datasheet listed at all. That brings us to the Philips UAA-1280T, later the NXP UAA-1280T. Mouser sold it once upon a time. https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NXP-Semiconductors/UAA1280T-V1?qs=wUVvLa%2FZKxV1FYxW0fxUjA%3D%3D Oh look, no datasheet link, not even a dead one. Also, when NXP/Freescale discontinued it they said it was for "Domestic Appliances (Hamburg)" See page 31. https://www.nxp.com/wcm_documents/products/eol/dn48a.pdf It is actually an airbag controller, and mentioned by various sites who were once selling them. That is all they say. I found one site in an Asian language who had a datasheet link. It was a PDF that said "the datasheet is not available online, please contact by email" https://cn.exshinetech.com/products/NXP-Semiconductors-Freescale/UAA1280T-V1512.html There are other places besides the big three who have a lot of datasheets, Octopart for instance. No help there though. Unfortunately, the trail for the other 2 chips was even colder. They don't want you to know. I don't have the foggiest idea what is going on there. I don't recognize that either. The regulator has to be there somewhere, maybe buried in some chip, maybe made with discrete parts. I suspect it would have some of the larger traces like the RBO thingie does.

Well I wouldn't rule out that they just hadn't started doing it yet. Someone in here will know. Are they delaminating?

I think LOF is correct, and I think the marks started with safety glass on GM cars. I don't think the marks are all the same in the 30s. I have seen some site showing variations but I don't recall where.

Time for a rebuild if it is hissing. That is a vacuum leak as far as the engine is concerned. Vacuum wipers are more suggestion than action, but a vacuum motor that seals properly is a lot better. A booster pump improves the situation a little if your car has it. Here's a third vote for Rain-X. I had mine rebuilt by Clean Sweep in Oregon. It turned out well.

Do you have the bleed screws with the screws in top instead of rubber dust caps? Is that the issue? It is possible to buy an internal hex bolt with a hole through the middle and use it in place of the dust cover screw for vacuum bleeding if you have those old style bleeders. As I got mine from another forum member years ago, I don't know the source offhand. It is also possible to just cram the bigger adapter of a harbor freight vacuum bleeder over the the hex, you just can't have the wrench on at the same time. Its a little inconvenient but not impossible to deal with. Shove the wrench under and pop it off while it is still under vacuum. If that doesn't work out, just get it mostly bled with the vacuum, and someone to help you foot bleed one or 2 squirts right at the end of the process. It's a good idea to do that anyway. I don't know the thread size. It may not be the original size anyway if the cylinders were ever replaced. If you are going to exchange the bleeders for modern ones, you may just have to go to the parts store and match them up.

Ok I just looked that up and I now think what I have always heard called BSP in the USA is really BSPP. The difference is no taper on BSP(P). If you have no taper, which seemed logical with a screen that looks like that because the fitting would be able to bottom on the screens ring. But, there would have to be a flat shelf or seat in the head for the screen's ring to squeeze and seal against. If there is no seat or shelf in that head for the ring to bottom on, then the fitting probably is tapered threads. If it is tapered threads, it seals on the threads and is probably NPT. No reason I can think of to use a British standard pipe threads in the US at that time unless you needed the straight threads.

That fitting is threaded sleeve. What you have should screw in it and work. Normally you don't replace the nut. If you do need it, Blackhawk Supply has them. This not compatible with double flare in any way. BSP? Straight threads? Not NPT?

Thanks for posting, success stories encouraged! Valvoline/Zerex's datasheet says this one had 75ml of foam with a 2 second break time, compared to 35ml of foam with a 2.1 second break time for G-05. Both pass ASTM D1881 with plenty to spare as the upper limit is 150ml of foam and a 5 second break time. This one also passed the ASTM D2570 corrosion test with flying colors (very low corrosion).

It was drained from the car. A few days earlier the car, which had been working fine for about 3 years, was drained, rinsed out with distilled water, and filled with "Oreilly Conventional Green Antifreeze and coolant" for Ford/Chrysler 2000-earlier and 1995-earlier GM/others. It was mixed 50/50 with distilled water. It almost all blew out out on the ground 5 miles later. It was refilled with Havoline's "conventional" formula "for older autos and light duty trucks", continued to have the problem, and was refilled with a LOT more of the Havoline over the next few days. It was Havoline. There could have been traces of the Oreilly coolant in it. There couldn't have been much Oreilly left by the time this test was done. Maybe some residue. I'll go edit the first post to match the exact verbage on these bottles. The foaming problem has been widely reported with "conventional" formulas in open systems designed for water. Somehow I was getting away with it without any issue until this last change.

You're not wrong about the traffic though, I assume that was taken on southbound I5 somewhere between 85th and Boylston.

Next up, Prestone All Vehicles. One minute in with the eggbeater: Two minutes, just as the eggbeater was pulled out: 5 seconds later: 10 seconds: 15 seconds: Well, that's a difference! Next up is Prestone DexCool, or rather it would be If I had any pictures. I did this experiment twice. The first time I couldn't manage the camera in a timely manner, and so the next day I got @37_Roadmaster_C to come over to my place and hold the camera. Unfortunately the sample of Prestone DexCool leaked out of the container overnight. It's performance in the original run was slightly better than Prestone All Vehicle, but hardly enough to mention. Next up, Valvoline/Zerex G-05, one minute in with the eggbeater: Two minutes in, just as the beater was pulled out: 5 seconds later: 10 seconds. 15 seconds: 20 seconds: This is clearly better. It barely made any foam even while the beater was running. It would have been nice to try a bunch more samples, but I found what I needed to solve the problem for the trip and so I stopped here. Feel free to expand on this!

Testing to the ASTM standards was out of the question. I can't afford the standards, let alone the standards referenced by the standards, or the standards referenced by those standards, never mind the lab equipment. What are we going to do then? Simulate real life conditions as much as possible by heating the coolant to 200F and beating the crap out of it with an eggbeater for two minutes. Now right up front there is a bit of a problem with this method, that being that the coolant will start cooling down almost instantly while being beaten. Still, maybe we can tell something. Onward! Today's contestants are: 1) Havoline Conventional (green), 50/50 mixed with distilled water. Possibly with a little Oreilly Conventional Green still mixed in. Drained directly from an recalcitrant Pontiac. 2) Prestone All Vehicles. Mixed 50/50 with distilled water. @37_Roadmaster_C had a some Prestone left over from his wife's car, and I ran off with a couple cups. 3) Prestone DexCool Mixed 50/50 with distilled water. As used in my other cars. 4) Valvoline/Zerex G-05. Mixed 50/50 with distilled water. Here is the Havoline Conventional, after one minute of the eggbeater on high: Two minutes, at the moment the beater was pulled out: Five seconds later: 10 seconds: 15 seconds: 20 seconds: 25 seconds: 30 seconds 35 seconds: 40 seconds: 45 seconds:

B: With a better view, they aren't chokes. I like @37_Roadmaster_C's idea that they are diodes. The mounting is weird though. I've never seen anything like it. It looks like a lot of current capacity, and that wouldn't be typical for little glass diodes. I think it is the best guess so far. How about this for an idea out of left field, maybe spark gaps? Or maybe some little gas tubes for spike suppression? I have no idea why they would be there if so. F: I still cant seem to see that very well but it looks like brown-black-brown-(space)-gold. Is that right? If so, 100 ohm resistors with 5% tolerance. The wattage would have to be determined by size. L: I still think they are chokes, although it remains a wild guess. RBO: I read the datasheet and it is exactly what you said. No regulator inside. I don't know. the caps for the first generation Ford units were huge compared to these and located in a separate box. The Ford units were also used in Mazdas. Airbags were a USA thing early on, so Delco wouldn't surprise me too much in an Asian car, until you said the box was marked Siemens.