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Roger Garnett

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  1. Wheelbase & track width would help a bunch. Interesting hoop around the differential. Photos of the front axle, rear hubs, and other details would help too.
  2. If it's a model I, that's a 4 cylinder, 25 hp. I have recently gotten an 08 LC 2 cylinder, which is quite different. You should be able to get a lot of help by joining the Maxwell-Briscoe owners group. https://groups.io/g/MaxwellBriscoeOwners/
  3. I have recently gotten an 08. Similar, but many differences as well. You should be able to get a lot of help by joining the Maxwell-Briscoe owners group. https://groups.io/g/MaxwellBriscoeOwners/
  4. Congratulations! One of your best resources will be the REO club of America. https://reoclub.org/ Also an active REO club group on Facebook.
  5. Several videos on YouTube. You could make your own, or perhaps pick up a source from the videos. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+make+a+wood+steering+wheel and if you do a web search for "wood steering wheel rebuilding", you'll find some sources. Roger
  6. You don't say where you are.. But in the states anyhow you're looking at Federal regs. Yet, a monocle may slip through regs. I'd check with a local glass shop about fitting safety glass.
  7. Go on eBay and look for convex clock lenses. Available in many sizes
  8. As J&J mentioned - Paper Pulleys - this is a rare case of being able to buy new brass era parts from the original manufacturer.
  9. There's no number - you use Facebook messenger to contact the seller in most FB ads. You'll need to make yourself an account - that doesn't mean you have to use it for other stuff!
  10. I think he meant Horseless Carriage site! hcca.org.
  11. Compression ratio and operating speed for early engines are rarely mentioned - but both are quite low, due to the metallurgy and designs. Car engines are (usually) a step up from hit & miss engines - which can run slower than 1 rotation per second (60 RPM). I've heard a single cylinder Olds running perhaps as slow as about 100-200 RPM anyhow - with a later style carb. (which has better adjust-ability) The brush could be similar. I expect the C/R might be around 4:1 - maybe even less, probably not much more. I've thought more than once about digging up a tachometer that can measure these cars - remember, they may be running on a buzz box or magneto ignition, so an external voltage source for an electrical tach is needed, or a mechanical / optical tach. I searched through my 1918 Dykes Automotive Encyclopedia, and did not find good listings for either. Did find a reference about SAE horsepower ratings - such as a car listed as a 25 / 30 HP car - the 25 would be at 1000 RPM, and the 30 would be as tested on a dynomometer (no RPM listed) I've seen the 1908 Ford model T listed as 4.5:1, and engine speed of at least 1600 RPM. Roger
  12. Max - Did you ever find any plates? I'm looking for one plate for a 1909 touring (yours looks shorter and curved - a runabout?). A weathered one would be great, and match what's on my car. Roger
  13. How are you going to measure anything with only one meter lead connected? Connect one side to a good ground, then you can start to measure the voltage.
  14. Nice photo Frank - It's known for knocking Barney Oldfield upside down in 1905. There's a few references on firstsuperspeedway - be sure to follow the links to pdf's and articles. Referenced as "32 hp" - and the stock REO 2 cylinder was 20 HP. https://www.firstsuperspeedway.com/search/node/reo bird Referred to as the REO Red Bird in this article - http://airportjournals.com/barney-oldfield-master-driver-of-the-world/?fbclid=IwAR05ysG6VGoqR2_gMZPtPOR71zO_51IgKV3JU0lwZgXpMsL-TeRemD7fu3U Another photo and some good clippings here on The Old Motor, in 1906 http://theoldmotor.com/?p=25847 Roger
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