DS_Porter 89 Burgandy

Looks like a CRT problem but the touch screen is an overlay grid and each touch pad is a programmed location. I suspect the touch functions still work right? The CRT electron beam is swept horizontally rapidly until it reaches the bottom and then jumps to the top to begin another vertical sweep. Looks like a DC component of the vertical sweep out put has failed. Most likely repairable if a schematic was available. A good TV tech could fix it....... oh just find a spare. DP

Thanx for the successful report. Always happy to share what I know. Pay it forward

Looking at my diagram in the manual it is: 5 wire connector C1 terminal C the yellow wire Cut the yellow wire two or three inches from the connector to give yourself enough wire to work with. Cap the wire that goes into the harness bundle. Connect a wire to the yellow wire C from the terminal plug (about 16 gauge) Run that wire to a good ground. That will ground the "retract" circuit allowing the headlight doors to close with full current just as the old incandescent filaments did. I believe they were wired that way as a means of notifying the driver that a filament was burned out. As it has been stated before if we can't tell if a headlight is out we should probably stop driving.... Let me know how it turns out Dean Porter

Whack it a few times with a soft hammer. It should pop back out to its original position. I got bumped in a parking lot about 15 years ago. I decided I could live with the damage because it was not too noticeable. About a month later I glanced at it and I could not see the damage. After looking closely I realized it was spring loaded and it had popped back into position.

New power module installed. All is well. Thanx guys. It is worth mentioning that removing the blower motor power module is the only way to inspect or gain access to the heat exchanger which can slowly clog up over the years. It makes a difference to clean it out if it is dirty

A couple rears ago I was called upon to please help / diagnose / fix my first Reatta which I have passed on to my stepson. I replaced the Ignition Module twice and the CPS - crankshaft position sensor - also twice before finally getting a combination that has been working for a couple years. It is always a frustrating and time consuming process because the new parts usually work initially but later fail due to heat and time. No codes are set with these parts either

Good tip Ronnie thanx. I was thinking that the blower module was a simple high wattage resistor but it is a solid state device which hopefully is my problem. New part is on order. I'll update this in a few days :)

Anyone ever had this problem? I shut the car off and pull the key and the heater/AC fan continues to run. I have pulled all relays and/or fuses in the center console and the under hood relay center and it still runs. The manual shows a power module and the heat/AC solid state control units as the likely suspects. When I unplug the battery I hear a relay clicking from under the dash and it starts back up again. Hmmm.......

Made me laugh :)

Good idea to pull the fuse. Here is a simple latching relay circuit. Worst thing is a broken window and ignition switch damage. Add an audible alarm that explains that you are now locked inside and help is on the way.............. Just keep good insurance up to date.

After reading Dave's comment about living on the edge I was thinking about anti theft measures. About fifteen years ago my wife's '95 Honda Accord was stolen. Twice in fact. We got a "club" steering wheel lock and solved the problem. For a long time I considered a hidden fuel pump switch but I tend to procrastinate and I never got around to it. Never seriously considered it for the Reatta because its so rare and low on the theft popularity list. Newer vehicles are getting harder to steal but here is an enhancement to the fuel pump switch idea that eliminates the hidden switch. Run the fuel pump wire through a latching relay. The relay is always off UNLESS the ignition is on AND it is turned on by a certain switch or momentary contact. This switch or contact would be one that already exists but its hidden function would not be known to a non-owner. Maybe a turn signa lever or high beam flasher.... I'll draw the simple diagram and add it to this post

On the edge yea that's me

We also have a 2014 Honda CRV that is faily good except for a pesky evap system fault. The canister and valves are underneath under a cover Grrrr.....

I have converted both front and rear bulbs to all LED's. It took a lot of trial and error and I wish I could report part numbers but they all came from Chinamart so they have poor standards with little documentation. If you choose LED's use bulbs of the color you want to see. For the rear I used dual element RED LED's because white ones appear too washed out with not enough color. Choose a fairly high wattage so that the stop bulbs are bright enough. I had to put a resistor on the tail light elements to dim them somewhat more in order to provide the desired lower level of brightness. The 194 bulbs on the outer ends are RED color. In the front I tried several types of white or amber 194's and settled on fairly bright amber. Turn signals are amber and cornering are white. I have a spare left front turn signal, parking light, cornering fixture if anyone is looking for one. The amber globe for the 890 turn signal is intact. Sometime soon I will sell my '89 Reatta. It is my favorite car of my entire life but I am ready for something new to tinker with. Maybe an Enclave....... I'll keep reading this forum. Thanx to you all

When you say "the dash doesn't work" do you mean the speedometer display? Mine went out and I had to change it out. Its OK now. I bought it from someone on this forum. I could dig up the name if it would help.

Its all about CLEAN If the throttle body is clean, if the Idle Air Control (AIC) is clean and the injectors have been cleaned and balanced by a pro like Doctor Injector then it will run and idle so smooth that you might need to check the tach

When I bought my '89 it only had 24K miles on it. Very nice except the cruise control did not work. The brake pedal has a vacuum switch which releases the vacuum and causes the cruise to quickly drop out when the brake is applied. Check that. Hardest part is getting your eyes and hands on it

When I bought my '89 it only had 24K miles on it. Very nice except the cruise control did not work. The brake pedal has a vacuum switch which releases the vacuum and causes the cruise to quickly drop out when the brake is applied. Check that. Hardest part is getting your eyes and hands on it.

When I converted to LED headlights I wanted to understand and solve the problem of the lights not retracting because I was looking to benefit from the reduced stress on the headlight switch. It seemed like adding a relay harness was redundant although it is still the best fix to reduce stress on the switch regardless of which headlight type is selected. When I selected the LED headlights to install it was more than two years ago and direct replacement rectangular lamps were not readily available. I settled for a pair that is not yet DOT certified. They have three rows of four large bright LED's. Six turned on for low beam and all twelve for high beam. Way brighter than the best stock halogen or regular incandescent. The problem however was the low beam pattern was the same as the high. I was getting a lot of drivers flashing me due to the low beam wide pattern. So I ended up partially blocking the six low beam LED's with a carefully cut piece of electrical tape. Most all the light above horizontal is blocked. No more drivers flashing me and the pattern is still plenty bright. I think my high beams are the brightest on the road. I leave my fog light switch on at all times for general safety and also because it looks sharp with the front and rear parking lights lit up. All are LED;s and it took a lot of trial and error to find the best brightness and color. I would like to share part numbers but they all came from chinamart which is all just a crapshoot. And now I am hoping I never have to buy anything from china regardless of any perceived benefit......I hope they .... oh I can't say that

I re-posted this on March 20 but I will insert it here because it is directly relevant to this post... See page 8A-102-0 in the '89 FSM On the Headlight Control Module connector C1 terminal C I cut the wire and capped the wire leading away from the HCM connector. I connected a 16ga wire to the severed wire C coming out of the plug and I ran that wire to a good ground. The LED bulbs I chose are much brighter than any incandescent and well worth this modification. Any type bulb can be installed and they will retract just fine.

When I converted to LED headlights I wanted to understand and solve the problem of the lights not retracting because I was looking to benefit from the reduced stress on the headlight switch. It seemed like adding a relay harness was redundant although it is still the best fix to reduce stress on the switch regardless of which headlight type is selected. When I selected the LED headlights to install it was more than two years ago and direct replacement rectangular lamps were not readily available. I settled for a pair that is not yet DOT certified. They have three rows of four large bright LED's. Six turned on for low beam and all twelve for high beam. Way brighter than the best stock halogen or regular incandescent. The problem however was the low beam pattern was the same as the high. I was getting a lot of drivers flashing me due to the low beam wide pattern. So I ended up partially blocking the six low beam LED's with a carefully cut piece of electrical tape. Most all the light above horizontal is blocked. No more drivers flashing me and the pattern is still plenty bright. I think my high beams are the brightest on the road. I leave my fog light switch on at all times for general safety and also because it looks sharp with the front and rear parking lights lit up. All are LED;s and it took a lot of trial and error to find the best brightness and color. I would like to share part numbers but they all came from chinamart which is all just a crapshoot. And now I am hoping I never have to buy anything from china regardless of any perceived benefit......I hope they .... oh I can't say that.

I am re-posting my fix for the headlight shutoff issue posted Jan 3 2018. Originally the grounding was run through the low beam filament. If the headlights are changed to LED's the resistance is too high and they will not retract. Here is my previous post explaining the fix..... See page 8A-102-0 in the '89 FSM On the Headlight Control Module connector C1 terminal C I cut the wire and capped the wire leading away from the HCM connector. I connected a 16ga wire to the severed wire C coming out of the plug and I ran that wire to a good ground. The LED bulbs I chose are much brighter than any incandescent and well worth this modification. Any type bulb can be installed and they will retract just fine.

I always jump in and try to fix something before I read the directions. The car and the service manual have humbled me from time to time and this forum has been a great source of knowledge and a time saver. Thanx for all you do Ronnie

Yes At the top of the firewall in the center you will find the fan speed resistor. If you remove it you will have access to the heat exchanger for the A/C. Over a long period of time it will begin to plug up. You can clean it through this access hole. You can also remove the fan motor for additional access but do the fan speed resistor first to see how bad it is. It is not an easy job but It made a big difference. I was surprised how dirty mine was.

A bad oxygen sensor may cause excessive fuel consumption. possibly an injector sticking open but not a common issue. My '89 runs perfectly with fuel pressure of 46 psi Check it Disconnect the battery overnight to make it "relearn" its fuel programming and IAC settings. Not sure how smart the ECM is or how capable it is re-programming itself. Mass airflow sensor is also part of the fuel calculation. Try disconnecting it Good luck Let us know. Always curious about such problems