Ttotired
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Posts posted by Ttotired
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I am wondering about your fuel pressure/volume. You said your fuel filter went dry, doesnt that mean its ran out of fuel? Assuming plenty of fuel in the tank, you may have a problem with the fuel pump more so than the carby?
Mick
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If its back there, have fun
Save yourself some time and get the special socket (If you can) used on the pinion shaft (you need this, it matches the splines) and see if you can find the special spanner thing that holds the pinion nut, I couldnt find that one, so I cut one out of a piece large angle iron I have and it just did the job (ended up welding the spanner to the nut, horrible job) and dont forget a new seal
Mick
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Fix that earth, you can put that loose one under the throttle linkage bolt ( dont remember seeing one on that side on mine)
Anyway, do that and your likely to still have the same problem.
I think you will find your tail light assemblies are a little loose and it the tail lights that have lost their ground.
They ground (earth) through the contact of the housing to the rear 1/4 panels, there are no earth wires to them.
Best repair, solder a wire to the globe socket and earth it to the inner fender (trunk wall) and if you have fitted the correct bulb and fitted it correctly, your fault will be fixed.
If your hesitant (or just dont want to do that) then try undoing one of the bolts that hold the tail light on and putting a star washer under the bolt and re tightening it, should work again (until it loosens again)
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I am quite sure (which means I dont know) that the fuel cap will not be vented because the filler neck is low mounted and points out to the rear, if it was vented, it would allow fuel to leak out every time you accelerated away. The vent tube on the tank will most likely (again, means I dont know) be a metal tube and go up to the filler neck and join in there. It is done this way for above reason
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I would not put a bypass in. If the wires have come loose in that junction and are loosing connection, it wont stop at one and that connection will get hot (burn) once the car is in use again, Best to trace the fault as has been described, but when you find it, fix it. Adding extra wiring under the dash is how rats nests are built and this one being a main power feed is a recipe for disaster.
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If its the same as my 58, there is a short piece of rubber fuel line attached to it and follows the actual fuel line up to the big cross member and just stops (nothing on the end)
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All great advice "Buick Man", but as an automotive professional myself, I must say that I must be an "Iffy Shop Owner" because if someone came into my business asking for what you are recommending, They would not get the opportunity to thank me for "saving you the possible trouble of him causing you grief and pain and walk away" because they would get booted out faster than they came in, because I know someone coming in asking for all of this IS trouble waiting to happen.
Also, all of these documented tests take time (lots of time), so that time needs to be paid for by someone, so, If you didnt get booted out the door and they did rebuild your transmission, it would probably cost you double to get everything documented.
I do not work in a transmission shop, so I might be off here, but how would you set up a dynaflow to do pressure checks without at least a nailhead to attach it to or the car to fit it into, pretty sure that most trans shops (even in USA) would much prefer to have the car for testing rather than trying to adapt a dinosaur transmission to whatever they have as a test bench, as for reference checks, I would cite "privacy laws" and tell you to check me out on the "net" because If I stitched someone up, it would be up there for sure and lastly, if you do not trust whoever you take your vehicle to to do the repairs, go somewhere else.
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New to you!!!!
Is/was it a barn find (parked up for a long time) or is this the reason it was sold?
Just thinking (and believe me, we are on a par here, I dont know a lot about these things as well, mine dont run now) I am wondering if the variable bit of the torque converter is working/stuck. No idea how this really works yet because I havnt read up on it, but reverse will have a lower drive ratio than "D" (not sure about "L") so it will be harsher in reverse. I did notice (before I pulled the engine out of mine) that it seemed to push through the brakes, but the brakes were really crap on mine (wheel cylinders stuck). I fixed the brakes, but I didnt really get a chance to drive it after that because the engine was knocking (was suck when I got it) and I was trying to keep running time to a minimum until I fixed the knock
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Dont really understand the thought behind it actually, kind of like putting stop leak in your fuel tank, I am sure the carby or injectors would love it
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Apart from any other part on the A/C system, you have a t/x valve or an orifice tube, both are restrictions to gas flow and are very sensitive to foreign objects blocking them up. Being an auto elec, a major part of my job is A/C repair and nothing on this planet would make me add a stop leak to a system. The very nature of a stop leak (to plug up a hole) means it would be no good. Stupid sales gimmick (seen it advertised "every A/C service gets bla bla stop leak installed to protect against future leaks")
I have not come across it yet, but I hope they "sticker" the car, would hate to have that crap go through my equipment
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Yep had a look as well, very cool and bookmarked now
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If they are anything like the late 50s mopar in general design, the jacket for the manual steering clamps to the steering box, where the power one doesnt (well does on mopar, but inside the car, where the manual is outside, in the engine bay). The manual steering shaft also goes fully into the box and is part of the actual gear drive assembly, the power steering shaft is attached to the box using a tongue and groove setup, held together with a roll pin.
Guess the manufacturers of the time figured that the power steering boxes would have to come out more often than the manual ones, so they made it a bit (not much really) easier to get out
A grizzle (because I am an auto electrician) is why do people cut the wiring harness when they pull stuff out, really, its not that hard to unplug something and you dont destroy a perfectly good (or relatively easily repaired) wiring harness and it could be saleable if undamaged?
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I agree. when i pulled the engine from my 58, only the thrust pad was still intact, the rest fell in 1/2 when I lifted the engine out.
They looked fine in the car and before the engine came out, I drove it up and down the street, no problem (that part anyway)
Mick
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I am yet to personally see a printed part, especially directly off the printer, so I am measuring my comments, but I do not believe you could print a lens and have any sort of clarity to it without a lot of work. Simple casting would be so much easier
I looked into getting a 3D printer, just because I like messing with stuff and I think it would be interesting, but I do wonder when people suggest "just print one" wether they have done it, seen it or know anything about it, most have not (I expect)
Pictures I have seen of printed parts are far from smooth (as you would expect from something that is built up in layers), so for a lens, it would require a lot of sanding and polishing on all its surfaces to clean it up
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You will have to re make one I think, That said, has anyone actually made something for their car with a 3D printer?
Lots of people say "make this on one or make that" but I have never seen anyone (over lots of old car forums) actually make something and show its manufacture, the other thing I would be concerned about if you were able to "Print" a lens; is that the plastic is a thermal plastic and I imagine that the nice new lens would turn into a nice new blob soon after the light was turned on
That said, look up (google) silicone mold making and see how to cast your own lens and you can then experiment and make your lenses whatever color you like
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I wouldnt put that back in my car
Was it noisy, apart from where the pinion was hitting the carrier, the crown wheel teeth are shot, I would have thought it would have howled like a banchee
Mick
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Add is gone
Mick
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Straightened mine up yesterday in my press (cheap china crap, but it works), did both of them, only took about an hour (I have the whole driveline out)
Use a straight edge and you can see where the bend is, they dont have to be exactly perfect as they have slotted holes at the diff end
Mick
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Sealed bearings are really sealed against grease, oil will seep past them
Mick
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Never invest in something you know nothing about, especially cars and art (sometimes the line gets fuzzy between the two)
I am in Australia, but I do watch the US car market a bit for cars in my range, which your ford falls into and I agree with the others, if you get more than $5000 for it, your doing well
Anything that has a 6cyl in it, but could have had a v8 will have people turning their noses up at it, that said, If it was mine, I would restore it with its original engine and either supercharge it or turbo. either one, dont matter, but it then gets the wow factor that could actually trump the V8 in crowd appeal, just because its unusual, that is what "I" would do, because I can do it myself
You appear to not be a car guy, so just off load it, to pay someone to bring it back, would be more than you would ever get for it (minimum $30,000 for a good driver quality car, $50,000 to get to the upper end show car and keep chucking money for a trailer queen) or have a go at it yourself and become a car guy
Good car to learn on
Rolls, hard one for me, no real interest in them, but condition is everything with them, I dont imagine people buy them much for restoration, most want to have them for class I think
Go to a motor trimmer and see if there is anything that can be done to the seats, full leather re trim would be very pricey
Funny thing is, I think the rolls would be worth more (maybe $15 to $20 grand, but as I said, I dont look for these so I could be very wrong) but I would have the ford over the rolls myself
Mick
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I have been reading all about this myself
Sprung means the axle housing may be bent caused by the radius rod getting bent or the radius rod got bent due to the axle housing being bent (sprung)
They warn about it because it may still be under tension ( unlikely), but even if it was, it wouldnt move much
The ones for my car are also both bent, the axle housing is fine (as I expect yours would be, its a pretty substantial hunk of metal) and I am just going to straighten them
They are only there to stop the top of the "T" from getting bent and are not under that much stress normally, which is why they get away with slotted holes at the wheel end of the bars
They can be removed from the car without removing the entire rear end, quite an easy job actually (although I have the entire rear end out at the moment)
Mick
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SKI principle
(spend kids inheritance)
Mick
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I am not sure what you mean by trunk board (maybe the trunk cardboard stuff?), but anyway, the century is the same size as the special where the roadmaster is bigger, but I dont believe that the size difference was in the trunk anyway, so you should be right
Mick
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I am with Old-Tank here
"I don't pull a trailer, but I do drive in the mountains and the Low range of the Dynaflow gives good engine braking; when that is inadequate a hard stab of the brake pedal to reduce speed is all that is needed for awhile...riding the pedal will get you killed."
I am even a little less experienced as I havnt driven my car with a dynaflow anywhere yet, so I am going on book learning and some heavy vehicle driving experience
I also have no problems with people doing brake modifications, provided they have an idea what they are doing (brakes and steering will get you killed if not right)
Disc brakes will also overheat and fade, just a bit slower than drums, I think "driving technique" is more the issue
Most trucks have very good engine braking capacity, especially if the have some form of exhaust braking as well, but they still have to approach a steep decline in the appropriate gear to get them from the top to the bottom with minimal use of the wheel brakes
Your car should give you reasonable engine braking in low range and if you maintain a reasonable speed by modulated braking and dont care about the lineup of cars behind you (where do you think the term "bloody caravaners" came from) your brakes should be adequate as they are
For me though, having had a massive scare driving a 1962 Holden (look it up if you dont know what it is) down a mountain and loosing an entire rear axle and brake drum ect, I am not a big fan of single circuit brakes and if you towing a van a lot, I would at least recommend a dual circuit master cylinder
I think (its been a long time since I have seen it) there is a movie with Lucile Ball in it called the "Big Trailer" that was pretty good
the times may be modern now, but the technology being used here is basically the same as in that movieMick
Dynoflow woes.........
in Buick - Post War
Posted
Means the case is full (or very aerated)
I know as much about these dynaflows as you, only advice I can give you is not to mess with it until you understand whats going on.
Wait for your manual (at least) and study it first until you get what is happening and why
Automatic transmission is another name for can of worms and if you stuff it up messing with it, it will cost you much more
Mick