Ttotired
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Posts posted by Ttotired
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Oil thickener
I would not use it, band aid fix for a worn out part and will only get worse
Mick
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Hard to answer without knowing what its for, but you will find (if its an original your after) that they are all model specific (might go for a few years on the early ones, 30s, 40s)
Thing is, they are sealed with mercury inside (from memory) at a specific amount, so if it broke, you will be lucky to get it repaired
Being in Australia, most of this sort of stuff for me means a daily troll of ebay until something turns up and if its old, then you grab whatever comes up quick before someone else does
You have to be a vulture
If its an aftermarket one, then it might be easier
Good luck with your search
Mick
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Never had a problem converting r12 to 134a and never had anyone prove to me that their a/c wasnt as cold anymore
Thing is, 134a is slightly less efficient a refrigerant than r12 and it will take longer to get down to the temperature the thermostat (or thermistor ) is set at
That time difference is about 5% longer
Thermostats control the ultimate temperature that the system is designed to work at and provided the gas thats in the system and the system itself is capable of getting to the set temperature, it will
I havnt come across the 1234yf stuff yet, but it is only a matter of time
From memory (I did this 6 months or so ago) the last price I got for an 11 kg bottle of the 1234yf was around $1500AU, might have come down a little now but at that sort of price and the very small volume of vehicles I will see with it, I think it will only be done by dealers/manufacturers for a while yet here
It is a business opportunity I guess, to buy it and advertise that I have it, but maybe later
Sorry for the edits, but just for information's sake, here in Australia, you have to be licensed to handle and store 134a (as well as most other refrigerants), but not this 1234yf, anyone can buy it here
Mick
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Auto sparky help might get things moving
With the headlight switch knob, as said above, push the release button while inserting the rod and put a spot of lube on it (that sounds dirty
), it might take a wiggle or 2, but it should click back inTo trace out the short circuit, here is the trick, get one of your old, blown fuses and solder 1 wire to each end, so you have 2 wires coming of the fuse
The other ends, connect them to an old (working) headlight, preferably the high beam side (3 terminals on an old sealed beam, high beam are the 2 opposite each other)
Now, when you fit that fuse into the fuse box, it will make the light come on bright, now go around carefully moving wiring and stuff about, while watching the headlight, when you find/remove the short, the headlight will go dull
You need to just move the wiring a small amount and watch carefully because you dont want to move the entire harness and loose the short and not know where it was
The other thing, is dont make a rookie mistake (like I did as an apprentice) and sit that light on the carpet, it gets hot and will melt the carpet quite well
Being that this is a ford (Sorry, never personally seen an edsel) I assume the interior light switches (in the door) have 2 wires to them and that makes the interior lights positively switched, so look around the kick panels and see if its there
You put a radio in, you said you removed it, did you dis connect it?
Did you put an antenna in as well? If so, perhaps a screw has trapped a wire (in the kick panel)?
As it blows the fuse strait away, apart from the interior light, the short can only be on the power inlet to the other circuits (eg, the brake lights, switch is not activated, so no power will be trying to pass through it)
The short could be in any part of the interior light circuit, because (I bet) the whole time you were working on it, you had the door open, closing the door switch contacts, you need to pop the door switch out (or at least push the switch button in) while your testing
You can forgo the headlight trick if you want, but never put a bigger fuse in and every time you try to fit a fuse, your overheating the circuit and may cause more harm
Best of luck
Mick
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Beemon, I cant quite understand all of your post, but I will have a go at this
There is no leather earth strap, leather will not conduct electricity, but there may or may not be an earth wire to the sender, most old cars didnt have them
Look at the sender and see if there is 1 or 2 wires to it (normally only 1), if 1, then there is no earth to it and it is relying on contact on tank straps or whatever is holding the tank on and also screw or spring pressure for the sender to tank (remember, there is a seal between the sender and tank), so lots of places to loose an earth
Mopar got the right idea (eventually) and came up with this, it clips onto the fuel line to bridge over the fuel flexi at the sender
Good thing is, this is easy to also solder a wire onto that can then be bolted up to a good clean earth point on the body somewhere
This is a bit general, as I am not familiar with your car exactly, but the other thing to check is if your fuel tank is chassis mounted, make sure there is some form of earth strap/wire going from the body of the car to the chassis, not just the body mounting bolts
Mick
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Cleaned the heads up over the weekend, I DE-greased them, then gave them a pickling in a caustic soda bath (one still is) to clean the carbon and paint ect off
Mick
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Thought the same thimg
Pretty useless showing a picture like that without a hint at least as to where you could get one
It looks vacuum formed?
Mick
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Someone else has already said it, but you have 2 issues going on here
1 The smoke, I think it needs re ringing at at least a hone, the valve guides could be a problem, but valve smoke is usually very brief as there is very little oil on a valve stem, where the cylinder bores have at least splash oil on them constanly
Basically, the engine is tired.
2 The carby backfire has to be the engine running to lean. Someone has already instructed you on how to check for a vacuum leak, so assuming you had no luck there, I would take your car to someone and have the carby re done (I know you said it has been rebuilt) as I think the main jets are partially blocked
As a final advice from an auto electrical tradesman, you dont sound very proficient in mechanical repairs, and this is fine, no one says you must be mechanically proficient to own an old car (Although, it helps
), so the best advice I can give you is to take it to someone who is, let them diagnose it and take their advice on its repairKeyboard diagnosis is fraught with danger and can become exceptionally expencive
If your wanting this car to be a learning experience for you to learn mechanics, that is also a good thing, but study the manuals until you understand what you are doing completely, they were written by the people that built them (generally), so (in most cases) they know what they are talking about, but the manuals do rely on some mechanical aptitude
Always good to have a go, but always good to know if your drowning also
Miick
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No idea, but they would look cool in a display case right next to a alien ray gun and a computer with lots of flashing lights and a couple of tape reels spinning back and forth
Mick
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Not really sure
I am thinking of buying it just incase there are broken parts in my dash that I dont know about yet
I agree, pretty savage way to remove it
I wonder how the rest of the dash shell was, kind of a waste if it was ok
Mick
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May have been the brand of lights available to me, but I tried to put halogens into my 60 dodge and they wouldnt fit because the headlight buckets are not deep enough
Another thing is to consider your wiring/electrics if you go with higher wattage bulbs, the max standard headlight wattage from new was 240W, go throwing in a set of 100 Watters and you have almost doubled what the electrical system was designed to handle, this is where a set of headlight relays will come into play (you will find your standard lights will also improve if you fit relays)
Mick
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Make sure you havnt toasted the cable on the exhaust, its unlikely to be in the trans, but to check, you can undo the bolt that holds the adjuster ring on the trans and then pull the cable (dont reef on it) and you should be able to feel/hear it click
If you need to remove the cable, there is a procedure to go through to get it out of the trans, to get it off the other end, there are 2 5/16 bolts that hold a retaining plate (part of the cable outer) to the side of the push button box and a tiny "C" clip that holds the cable inner onto the mechanism
If your going to get it out of the trans, it describes how to do it in the service manual, but I ended up taking the pan off on the first go, so I could see what I was doing and work out what they were talking about (and clean the old sludge ect out)
Mick
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Mechanic in a can/bottle type stuff, I have no faith in
You would also have to see if its for (and has) a rope seal, I think there are rubber seals for these as well and some of that stuff is to "re condition" rubber seals
It will still leak again, maybe after the next oil change?
What you could do though is to check and clean the engine breathers, it may be getting positive crankcase pressure and actually blowing the oil out
Mick
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look what turned up on ebay
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Hard but not impossible find
Lucky you didnt say convertible
Anyway, I dont have one, but maybe try posting here
http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/category-view.asp
I am active on this site as well and there are guys there that scour the earth looking for cars for sale
Mick
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From what I worked out, the gun sites are actually the same as the 55 hood ornament (bought 2 55 ones for my 58)
Both of these gun sites are missing the internal rings are look quite pitted
If the spears are in good condition (no damage or pitting and good chrome), the value will be in them
Looking at the gun sites, they could be used to make custom ones with something like the old ford V8 emblem in the rings?
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Little update, nothing much with the engine, but I got the trans out
Had a hard time getting it to release from the torque tube because this had all been out years ago when the car was converted to rhd and they stuck it back together with silicone
The rear will have to come out as well because the torque tube is leaking near the diff, so I will have to get seal kits for that as well
Mick
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Not much help, but I agree about the service manual, some stuff seems to be covered well, but other stuff is terrible
Pulling the engine ect from mine, I basically had to wing it, even engine repair stuff isnt that comprehensive
You will find (unless you have re wired it) that when you connect a few known wires, a lot of them will want to naturally sit where they need to go, But concentrate on one circuit/section at a time
As an auto elec, I sometimes have to put things like this back together
Mick
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I am not a purist, but LED bulbs will look "wrong" in your car
Just get the stockies
I have a 60 plymouth as well, but its un restored (but got at) right now, I also have a 60 phoenix and I was going to put a H4 conversion in that, but because of the extra length in the lens and bulb assembly, they wouldnt fit
Mick
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I am in WA (and it is Western Australia) and I am trying to get a windscreen sorted now for my 58
I am using a glass supplier off ebay and shipping to here for it from them is $1400, then there is the price of the glass on top
Mick
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I am not full bottle on these buicks yet, so I cant help with specifics, but normally when a wheel seal starts to leak, the bearing needs replacing
If the bearing is starting to wear, it pushes the axle up towards the car and makes the seal weak on the lower side (it dont take much)
The other thing is wether the seal has cut a groove into the axle
I have used the brake drum as a kind of slide hammer to get the axles to come out
Mick
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I am not planning on staying with the 2 barrel, although, I might save the inlet manifold chase to later
I will look at both vendors, thank you
I spent the whole day cleaning the engine bay yesterday (waiting for house air con installers to turn up, which they didnt)
So many nooks and crannies for dirt to hide in
I am waiting for the week end to put the engine parts in a rotary washer to take the bulk of the dirt ect off, then I will be getting into getting it done
Mick
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I think the kit (being for the higher output engines) will have the 4 barrel carb gasket
Does anyone make an alloy intake for the 364 that isnt a 3 deuce or are they made from unobtainium?
The other thing is the engine and gearbox mounts are broken, so I have to find those, but I am hesitant about used ones
Might have to google vulcanizing and see if I can re make mine
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It is a 2 barrel, but how much different would the ports be?
Mick
How do you replace a fuse on a 1960 Edsel or Ford?
in General Discussion
Posted · Edited by Ttotired (see edit history)
Glad to help
It keeps these classics going
Dis connecting the door switch has removed the short, have a look in your interior lights themselves (pull the globes out) and look for the short
If you have recently changed the bulb in one, look at its contacts
You would be surprised at how many short circuits I have fixed by fitting the correct bulb