Ttotired
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Posts posted by Ttotired
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I had mine hanging in a spare room for months getting the fold lines to relax, I wonder why they cant send them rolled?
Biggest mistake I made was I mixed up the roof bows and the workshop manual didnt say what order they went in
Mick
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So now as they reproduce 57 chevy and other body shells, it wouldnt be beyond imagination that someone could gear up and make a new batch of those as well
I wonder how the new production cars would be viewed by the classic car fraternity where, even with the DeLorean being made from left over (NOS) parts, to me, it would still have to be a new car, same as if you built a 57 Chev out of a new shell
Mick
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Not a motor trimmer and my headliner install was a napped cotton one, but I sympathize with you trying to get it neat
Kind of looks like my buicks one with lots of bows, the one I did was on a 60 phoenix, but I have heard of using heat to shrink the vinyl type into submission
Not sure spraying hot water onto it would work though and to be honest, I dont think I would want any liquid on a roof lining
If they were nice to you, they should have given you some off cut or extra for sun visors or whatever, see if you can stretch a ripple into a bit of that, then see if it will flatten with a hair drier (avoid using a paint stripper gun, bit to savage)
Heat lamps (like the painters use) might work as well, parking it in the sun can work as well, but I think hot sun is still in short supply on your side of the planet at present
Mick
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Radio fitments have almost always been unique to the car model they go into, but between different models of around the same year, it can just be a difference in the fascia and the knobs to match the styling of the dash
Its one of the fun things about doing a car and trying to keep it looking stock, if there is something that is year/model specific (1 year only), then these things become very pricey
I have a 60 plymouth and the aero steering wheel for that is normally around $500+ for a restorable core (if you can find one) and to get it recast to look original is about $1700 (if I am still up to date) and this is just the bare wheel, without the horn stuff
If your car is a custom, then you could consider trying to get a bit artsy and create a mount to take an after market sterio/dvd whatever to fit in its place?
Mick
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I have the torque tube apart now (what a mess) and cleaned up
The oil that was leaking near the back end of the torque tube appears to be diff oil, the torque ball end seems to be really good, but there is a bit of rubber sticking out of the cover thing
I have ordered a torque ball repair kit off ebay and found a new pinion seal there as well, so its also on the way
I tried to undo the pinion nut today to see if I could pry the seal out and wasnt having much luck, so I resorted to looking in the manual
Looks like I need at least 2 special tools to do this, 1 to lock the nut and another to turn the pinion shaft
(The service manual says to lock the nut against the diff housing and turn the pinion shaft to undo the nut)
I have found and almost (waiting on postage costs) ordered the socket that fits onto the splines, but I couldnt find the tool to retain the nut, so the plasma cutter and a scrap bit of steel has kept me amused for a while making one, the service manual mentions 250 foot pounds, so I hope it holds
This is my first time messing with a closed drive system, so its quite interesting
Worse thing is, most things take between 2 to 3 weeks to turn up here normally, so now I have to wait
( no pics of the tool, sort of looks like I chewed it out of the steel with my teeth
)Mick
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Just did a google search on your code
You dont say what car it is, but I assume this is correct
Might help
Fuel injection guessing games can be fun (if not pricey)
Mick
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To park that at the museum would only cost 1/18th the normal amount
:lol: :lol: Sorry, I couldnt help it
Mick
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Heavy metal parts I dont have a problem with getting blasted and as said above, "You can't sand and paint a frame for what they charged me."
It is so nice to then work with nice clean metal
Mick
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It sucks when your waiting
I try and do the crappy cleaning stuff if I get held up, but it doesnt help when you really want to be fixing "that" bit
Mick
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Thanks to all so far
I have contacted all bar 1 who have contacted me
I have been contacted by one person that only joined yesterday and has only replied to wanted adds
Ian is his name and if your reading this, I dont mind buying from the UK, but, you need to give me a bit more detail on the parts you have
This is his reply, less his email address
"I am very delighted to source out your ADVERT request on the subject line as I have lots of spares to throw in the market. Let me know what you are looking to purchase and I will get back to you with what is available. What's your phone number? E-mail me on"
I am sorry if your legit Ian, but this raised red flags to me
Mick
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Thanks for posting your car
My 58 is single color and I want to make it 2 tone but it also has the thin rear window trim ect that makes doing the roof a seperate color from the hood ect difficult and I was trying to visualize the car painted like yours
I think it looks good
I dont think its factory like that (doesnt bother me) and it looks like the car has had some "attention" during its life
Great car and well done, when it was done
Mick
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I bought (have) a 60 plymouth that has been blasted using garnet (done by a previous owner), It sure lets you see where any rust is/was
I wouldnt do it myself as that stuff just gets everywhere and its impossible to get out
Every time you bang on the car (bodywork) some garnet falls out of somewhere (It could be a problem when it comes time to paint this car)
I have (a long time ago) looked into blast vs dipping and there are pros and cons to both
Biggest one with dipping is it gets into seams and is very hard to get out/neutralize/flush away, but similar can be said with garnet
Another thing with the blasting is lead fill, it really knocks it around and it will have to be re done or at least filled over and its the lead fill that I worried about the most with dipping because if the chemical (normally a corrosive substance) gets under the lead, it will be messy down the road
As much as its labor intensive, if you have the time and place to do it, judicious use of paint strippers and sand paper ect will strip the car safely
Mick
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G,Day all
I have a 58 Buick 46R that I am at the beginning of whats going to end up a restoration/rebuild and I am starting to accumulate a list of parts that I am going to need
What I am after is a list of vendors willing to ship parts to Australia (Perth) and use Paypal as payment
I am not rolling in money, so I cant buy everything all at once, but I will list what I need so far and remove the items as I get them
I am starting with the rear end, so I need the diff pinion seal and the torque ball stuff (leaking diff oil into torque tube)
As for the rest of it
Engine mounts
both transmission mounts
Engine rebuild kit (piston size unknown at this stage) 364
water pump
fuel pump
R/H exhaust manifold
windscreen/windshield
all side glass
front park/indicator assemblies
I am also going to need various stainless side moldings, but it might be best to do that with pictures
Any vendors able to supply this stuff are most welcome to contact me through here (I am on here almost daily)
Suggestions for contacts are also most welcome
I have just finished doing a1960 dodge phoenix and this buick is the next one
Cheers
Mick
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Sad as it is to say, but going by the interior damage on that car, the impacts to the windshield and especially the damage to the steering column, I dont believe the front occupants survived this, especially the driver
The damage the column would have done to his/her chest would have been enough
If the family of these people ever read this, my condolences on your loss
Mick
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Yellow one is field
Should see that its the same wire at the regulator
Should also be a ground wire from the generator to the regulator base (so 3 wires), not so important, but it is there to make the electrical potentials at the gen and reg the same (this will not have stopped it charging)
The steel band at the back of the gen comes off to reveal the brush gear, first place to start, 99% of the time, it will be there, but may (will) require a rebuild if the brushes have worn out to replace the bearings and be machined ect
Mick
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Dan
I am curious what you had to do as a seller of a car to someone here in Australia
We have pretty strict quarantine laws/standards here, so I know second hand cars must have a pretty good cleaning, but I was wondering how the whole thing went
Mick
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I never bought any from them for my dodge, there was something like a 2 year wait
I ended up making my own
Mick
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Minus fits and minus billet are 2 I use, gets a lot of them, but sometimes you miss out on something good because the seller says it fits this model and that one
Being in Australia, ebay is about my only parts source mostly, unless I am searching for a specific part
Mick
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I know nothing of your car, but this is what I would do to try and isolate the problem
When it happens, if its safe and possible to do, turn the ignition off immediately, put it out of gear (you do not want the engine to turn over and put more fuel in the carb) and pull over
Check and see if there is any fuel in the carburetor, no fuel tells you its a fuel fault, full of fuel, its ignition
You could also have a timing light turned on and drive with it flashing on the floor to see if it stops as the engine does as well as a light connected across the coil (it will flash every time the points close/open)
Now, if this thing has a magneto ignition, my learning on those is about 30 years gone and I only have vague memories on how they tick
I hope this helps you nail it down
Mick
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Thanks for the reply
Doing that here in Australia would open the hugest can of worms when it came to licensing the car, but in saying that, my 58 buick is right hand drive and has had rather extensive chassis work to make the left hand drive steering box fit
It must be hard to get all the fender and bumper mounts ect to line up, be interesting to see how its done
Mick
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You got some fun ahead of you
Can you tell me what "subframing it" is?
I am guessing your adapting a different front suspension and front frame rails maybe?
Mick
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I am 100% NOT a dynaflow expert (or any auto actually), but converter drain back is an issue with the cast iron torquflites that I have dealt with (and rebuilt 1 of)
My dodge does not seem to have this issue (the one I rebuilt), but my plymouth will be happy as larry then at any given time, I will have a huge puddle of oil under it
With the tf trans, its not the pan gasket thats the problem, it will leak out of the shift cable (if the plastic sleeving is no good) or out of the kick down lever seal, both of these areas have been addressed with the dodge when I re built the trans and I havnt actually checked to see if the torque converter is draining back (it hasnt dropped its oil
)The real check is to check the oil level (engine off) and then come and check it again in a day or so and see if it changed
On the other side of the coin, if the gasket is leaking anyway, then it will obviously leak out of there once the oil level gets above it (mostly caused by the over tightening of the pan and causing the bolt holes to push up and reducing the proper "crush" of the gasket between the holes
In the case of converter drain back, once you start the engine and let it idle a bit, the converter will re fill and if the oil has not leaked out, it will just read the correct oil level and work perfectly
Stupid autos, but I am not a fan of clutch changes either
Mick
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Even though I own the dart, I like the front on the polara/matadore much better than whats on mine, but it is what it is
Those wagons are hard to find and (especially if its an x ram) quite expensive
I am more partial to the 60 mopar wagons than the earlier ones, mostly because the fin ends leaned in backwards until then
Mopar really got into the jet age design and (I think) really took it to the extreme, where Ford and GM were a bit more conservative, in a lot of cases, that was probably not a bad thing
Even today, a lot of people dont get what the fins and all the body sculpting was about and dont get the cars
When I see them looking at the Dodge with a sort of confused look on their faces, I just tell them to think of the Jetsons and tell them that this was all futuristic for the time, or I tell them to think of rockets and flying saucers and the like, they soon get it and then start looking closer with a smile on their face
Mick
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Not surprised, that car was very cheap going by the pictures
Congratulations to the new owner
Mick
:lol: 
Can I Tell if My Ballast Resister is Working?
in Buick - Post War
Posted
The resistor can get burning hot, dont touch it
Voltage checks will tell you, but the points need to be closed to complete the circuit before you start checking, otherwise your readings are going to show almost no change throughout the circuit
Hard to get decent readings with the engine running as the pulses (and dirty electrical flows and spikes ect) tend to p*ss off a lot of multi meters and the readings will alter with rpm fluctuations anyway
Another good test to see if its working is, if you are 100% sure your ignition is going through the resistor, start the car, is it running? Yes, its working, No, nup, its busted
Mick