Ttotired
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Posts posted by Ttotired
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Sorry to rain on your parade, but that fuse wont prevent it happening again I'm afraid, those contacts in your original relay blew apart after the starter carnage happened. If it happened again, the fuse would save the relay and the wiring .
On that subject, you need to check your ignition/starter switch system, it is possible for the contacts in the relay to get stuck, but its also much more common for starter switches to fail
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This site says it was a spring colour?
http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/paintdetail.cgi?paint=1957|Buick|Bittersweet
If the paint is not going to match the body tags, it really wont matter anyway, would it?
If you like it, use it
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Most of the delco starter parts are/were made in Mexico or Canada, at least the ones I have seen/used for 30 years of rebuilding this stuff.
Dont know why you have chosen the s/h route, but good luck, at least therye not to hard to get back out if it dont work
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Cant advise what I cant see
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That looks about right for a truckster
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Your welcome
Glad you found it, Finding stuff like this is what I do daily
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Can I suggest you buy that engine (and trans) if its cheap and not going to cause you financial strain, reason, at worse, it may have a part in/on it that you will need for yours, or otherwise, you could make it available for purchase off you and make someone elses day instead of it hiding under someones bench gathering dust.
I wonder about your diagnosis of the engine noise, without actually being there to hear it, from what you said " But with a badly rapping rod when starting it up" and " one cylinder does not have any compression", I would be leaning more towards a broken piston.
My 364 was locked when I got it, managed to get it running, but was the same, this is what I found
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The battery disconnect method only works if the generator is producing enough power to run the engine, at idle, they normally arnt.
DO NOT DO THIS TEST WITH AN ALTERNATOR
I assume your car will have either an amp meter or charge warning light in it, if the light stays on after starting and giving the car a rev, its not charging.
If its an ammeter, same thing, it should swing over to high charge with a rev (this is not long after starting)
For those that dont know, generator systems are rather unforgiving if its not all set up right and without the correct gear, you cant set it up right, so my best advice is to take the wires off the generator, charge the battery overnight, then take the car (much better to set everything on the car) to a trusted auto electrician. All things being equal, you should get your car back in less than a day (giving them time to "work around" it), if somethings broken, then it might take longer
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I found that the starter for an "International" was almost exact, you need to use your nose cone anr the bolt hole to hold the starter cabling is not in the field housing
This should be the one, but its not showing me a picture, but its almost identical, its really just the flange diameter thats different
http://www.buyautopartsonline.ca/catalog-1/itemdetail/dixie-electric/s-1042
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Yep, I assumed that the indicators and brake lights worked on the same bulb, but when you look at the wiring diagram above, it shows that the
indicators are separate, so the brake lights have nothing to do with the indicator switch.
Same fuse that supplies the flasher unit supplies the brake switch, and the output from the brake switch goes to the fuse box, then out to the rear, but this is just a junction point, no second fuse.
Anyway, might have fixed it now, no followup posts of increasing frustration
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Awesome when it all goes to plan
Those instructions were brilliant
Excellent to see someone take the time to help out like that
Good job
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OK, first, I think you have the front and rear park light wires connected wrong on the headlight switch
Front park lights come on in the park position only and rears stay on in both park and driving positions.
I am not sure your understanding that there are 2 globes in one with your combination stop/park lights
The diagram your looking at does not show this well at all, but if you look at the bulb, you should have 2 filaments suspended on 2 sets of arms inside the bulb.
If you have connected it up at the tail light like it looks like in the drawing, then you will have joined wire 18N and 18BC at the back of the globe holder, this is incorrect, the drawing is not that good, should be 2 wires going into the globe holder with 2 contacts inside, the bulb should have 2 contacts and the bulb earths through the metal case
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Many things, but lets start from the start
First, I am afraid that the tail lights have no relevance as the bulb should have 2 filaments in them (check this) they are 2 bulbs in one, so 1/2 can work, and the other 1/2 not (if you get me)
Now, Check for power at the stop light switch (by the way, if you do not own a test light, go buy one first and dont get the LED one, get one with a bulb in it) no power, look at the fuses, got power, the next step is the flasher switch. Turn one of the flashers on, does it flash at the back, yes = bulb OK, wiring from the flasher switch to down the back OK (check both sides)
Check the colour of the stop light switch wire going into the steering column (with the stop switch bypassed) does it have power? yes = Flasher switch is faulty, NO = wire broken or faulty connector between the sop and flasher switches
I am assuming that the earth connections to the tail light assemblies are good as well.
Do all this testing wit a test light, a multimeter or LED test light can (and will) tell you lies due to needing virtually no current to work meaning a faulty wire can test ok with no current but put a light on it and it will show the fault (light bulb draws current)
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Without having done this specific job, a little sparkie trick is to use what we call a "Rabbit Wire"
You would push this wire through the hole and up the column (shaft) and then use the rabbit wire to drag the proper wire back down.
The rabbit wire I use is an old inner cable from a toyota land cruiser fuel flap release, but Mig wire (not the gasless or hollow stuff) will work, basically, you need a relatively stiff wire that will stay straight while you push it through
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There is a school of thought when it comes to just cleaning an engine that says to leave it alone.
The only proper way to clean it, especially the oil galleries, is to strip the engine.
The risk of not doing this is dislodging the gunk thats sat there for 50 years and it moving somewhere bad (bit like a blood clot and a heart attack)
So unless your planing on a full strip (I would since you have the front of the car off anyway) I would clean that screen and put it back together.
Personally, as you have the front off, I would pull the engine and check it and at least re seal it, but maybe rings and bearings as well.
You might be getting the idea of why my little projects tend to blow out into full blown resto's now
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Ok Cool
I am an auto elec, but modifying the controls to work with something else, I have not done, but like you, I would like to make happen on my 58, so it would be interesting to see how you tackle this. I was hoping you were over this side
By the way, a lot has to happen to my car before I start messing with A/C
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Where in Aus are you?
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I do believe that in the service manual it says about the proper way to set up all the mounts
Has something to do with how the rear is located
No one wants a mis relocated rear
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I know nothing about the 67 skylark, but what size fuse are you using? is it a glass fuse? If so, make sure its the soldered type.
I would expect the fuse size to be 20 or 30 amp, taking 10 min to blow indicates that its drawing close or just over the fuses current rating and melting, not blowing, as such.
If the fuse is the correct size and a good quality fuse, I expect it will be the fan motor (armature shorting out), but a rubbed through wire "dancing" on a metal something could also do this.
Un plug the fan and try again
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I could be wrong here, but that looks the same type of stuff as my dodge door trims have and its not metal, its mylar (actually, sort of patterned tin foil).
I would say it does have stainless strips top and bottom though
This is a picture of my 60 dodge door trims, the mylar I got off ebay and it is used for light reflection in hydroponics these days and its a pain to sew
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Being that I love my old cars and like to have them on the road and use them and let other people see them, all this "this is not OEM" stuff makes me laugh. I am not a "Purist" but I do like to not alter a car away from it being able to be returned to factory, but the post is about a tow bar. Do people
actually care if a tow bar is fitted? I dont get my car judged mostly because if some old snooty nose bloke came and said my car was "less worthy" than someone elses car because it had a tow bar fitted, I would be less than happy with that person, same as seat patterns and so forth. Much prefer to see a classic car on the road and alive than sitting in a garage in pieces because the seat fabric is incorrect and the paint daub to say the diff is good isnt there.
Want to put a tow bar on your car to tow your van, go for it and enjoy your car and van and unless you like snooty old men picking holes in your pride and joy, dont get it judged
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I havnt looked, but I have never heard of a solid state GENERATOR regulator and not sure they actually make one, but I could be wrong.
The size of the diodes for the D+ to B+ connection would be large, the voltage regulation would be the same as an alternator set up, but current
control would be a big issue as it would require a current sensor circuit (like a shunt type ammeter) tied into the voltage regulator section to cut the field circuit for over current as well
In your picture there Beemon, you have 1 generator regulator, the other 2 are hard to tell as they may be alternator voltage regulators, but look more like relays (starter/horn) to me, at least the one on the left does, the one on the right has a shadow across the terminals, so I cant quite see it
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Your english is fine, I understand what you wrote
Welcome to buick world
The wheel turning in neutral will not be a problem, provided it is not giving actual drive, it should not be turning in park.
I have a 58 and have not played with a 56, but I think the gear selector will be relatively the same, there should be an inhibitor switch under the dash, mounted on the steering column that controls the allowed start positions, have a look and see if its loose, but it might be broken.
As for the rattle, I dont know without being there to hear it, but make sure it is not the starter staying engaged in the flywheel and maybe take the inspection cover off the bell housing and check all the torque converter bolts.
Good luck
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Watts are Watts, dont matter if they are halogen or not, just the halogen gives a better light than the equivalent sealed beam for the same amount of current
Beemon, If your that close to work, I would consider putting your battery on charge every few days for a few hours to just top it up from the sounds of it.
It used to be common practice for this to happen back in the day, especially for the "town" cars
1955 Buick oil drip problem at rear bearing cap
in Buick - Post War
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To try and help here, the size of the twine is not that important, its a messy job, but coat the twine with sealant (put sealant on your fingers and run the string through the sealant to coat it) and then stuff the string into the grooves, the sealant on the string will help hold it in there, The string is really only giving the sealant some "bulk" so you can make sure the sealant gets to cover all areas without air bubbles by being able to pound it in