Ttotired
-
Posts
314 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by Ttotired
-
-
On the "Reman" starter, I think they have to call them that because they are not genuine delco starters, they are direct copies/remanufactured, thats why it says they are all new parts
That starter in the picture above is not that old by the look of it.
Your description of the fault is hard for me to get my head around, saying it goes in and out, do you mean "machine gunning"?
If so, your battery is most likely the fault or your battery cables
If you mean the starter is spinning, but the engine isnt and it catches sometimes, I think thats a pinion problem (In the starter)
If it screams at you when you go to crank and turning the engine by hand a bit first makes it better, then worn teeth on the flywheel
The only other thing and I have seen this before is the pivot pin for the fork being missing, this can cause all sorts of fun things to happen.
The pin should be visible on the front (back really, but I always refer to the nose as the front) of the casting between the solenoid and the main starter casing. It is retained by either a nut but most commonly, a circlip
-
Without trying to sound like a smart donkey
that why I was suggesting putting the second one somewhere else. To get the one out of my 58, I had to destroy the core plug in the back of the head and push the bulb up from inside the head.
Have a look here and see if your able to give it a go, I have not done it, but it should work
http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge
-
1
-
-
I fully retrimmed my phoenix, I didnt make the roof lining (but did fit it) but I did make the rest.
Trimming prices seem to be similar to here in Perth
I found it kind of fun actually. I had to replace all the soft stuff in the seats and re make springs (that are not available).
The materials are not original, but suit the car fine.
I am happy with how it came out as a first time go at doing it
-
6
-
-
This ones easy, I had to replace the starter on my 364 and couldnt find one, but what I did find is that the international scout has almost the exact same starter, only difference is the mounting flange on the inter starter is slightly larger, so I used the nose cone from my starter and its sorted.
One other difference is the bolt hole that holds the battery cable to the side of the starter is also missing
Anyway, the starter # is S-1042 and is a "Dixie" part and it says they have 3 in stock
http://www.buyautopartsonline.ca/catalog-1/itemdetail/dixie-electric/s-1042
Good luck
-
2
-
-
Actually, just below the thermostat is normally the best spot, so it will give the correct reading in the hose, but will basically stay on cold until the thermostat opens
-
All of what you said is correct, but any old aftermarket one will do. I am assuming your looking at mechanical ones?
I would leave the factory one in and put the second one somewhere else (note temps differ from different places on the engine) like the top radiator hose is a good spot, just slip the bulb into the hose at the thermostat housing with a blob of silicone sealant on the capillary tube to help it seal and tighten it up, let the silicone go hard over night or whatever, then check for leaks.
By the way, I had a hard time removing my factory one as it had built up a bit of gunk on it and was quite happy to stay where it was, so if you do remove it, be careful, they are fragile
-
Just a word of caution if you go putting compressed air down a spark plug hole, as said, it needs to be done with both valves closed, that is at TDC on the compression stroke.
As the piston is at TDC (or really close to it) when you turn the air on to pressurize the cylinder, you are (to a lesser degree) emulating what happens when the mixture is fired, so, there is a really good chance the engine is going to want to turn, problem is, you will have no idea which way.
You need a flywheel lock or a turning tool that holds the flywheel and can hold it in position, the crank bolt is not good as it can loosen.
Compression testing is done because its easier than the messing around doing leak down tests, but I also like leak down testing before I strip an engine I am not sure about
-
Perhaps, a noise reduction solution is more whats needed?
Something like dynamat and hood insulation
In my part of the world, an overheating engine is a fairly common thing to see, but I dont see a lot
of cars running around with home made air dams and funnels all over the place
Sorry, just looked like the whole page was suffering its own thermal runaway problem
-
2
-
-
You know, with the 200,000 words already posted on this subject, has anyone thought that the best thing to do is fix the actual problem instead of theorizing on 50 band aid fixes?
If the car needs a fan to not overheat at highway speeds, something is wrong.
The car would have been able to do it once, why not now?
-
Engine fans should not be required at highway speeds, so if a car gets hot at highway speeds, something is wrong.
decreasing the fan drive pulley increases the fan speed, but also increases the water pump speed and could cause cavitation at higher rpms
I would be looking at the stuff Emtee has mentioned as well as the condition of the water pump impeller, but even something like fuel mixture will effect engine tempreture
-
22 hours ago, Beemon said:
When you compare numbers, the cost to install an alternator is dwarfed by buying a new voltage regulator by $20. If your voltage regulator fries, then you have other issues within the generator that may also need to be looked at and a rebuild can run up to almost $100 in some cases. Alternators are also solid state voltage regulation, so there's no fear of burning points out. Lastly, there are many models ranging from the stock 30 amps all the way up to 120 amps, which broadens what you can put on the car and feel safe running (electric radiator fan, solid state ignition system, EFI, modern AC, sound system).
I tried the alternator conversion, worked really well, except I used a Mopar alternator (they flow/look better than a GM, but mount differently - where I screwed up). The Mopar alternator is triggered through the amp meter in the dash, so keeping the wiring the same meant I could do without a dummy light. I eventually removed it, though, because it didn't look right sitting there and the custom bracket to mount it was flimsy - not in construction, but the fact there there were two flex points to mount instead of one led to some very interesting scenarios. I had also wired it into the starter relay from the 6v field terminals and my starter relay welded shut and blew my starter, so I removed the whole system and went back to stock...
If I were to do an alternator conversion again, I would spend the money on the Powermaster alternator. Some units come with a field "lamp" terminal, which gives off 6V when charging to use as a ground for the starter relay. Of course the issue with one wire alternators is that you have to put your foot into them to get them to charge, and the old Buicks are turned over by putting your foot into it. Buick5563 has never had an issue, so it's probably nothing to worry about. Curious to know at what RPM they kick in at, though.
With the description you just gave, I can now see why you have had those electrical problems
The 6v tapping on an alternator (If it has one) is actually a 12v a/c signal (shows 6v on a dc volt meter) and is used for running a tachometer (trucks with caterpillar engines are one that do this) or an electric choke signal (ford did this for a while), but, it is not a field anything, its taken from the stator. Because its a/c, if you apply it to a coil, like in a relay, the contacts will "buzz" (as in, open, close, open, close) with every alternation of the voltage.
Not sure which mopar alternator you were using, but the external reg type use ignition via the regulator to work and the internal reg ones needed the warning light to kick the alternator off, but an amp meter doesnt kick anything off
Most alternators do have a warning light signal wire, some its just a reference voltage (1 wire systems) others, its used to excite (trigger) the alternator, this is a 12v dc output when the alternator is charging, but is not designed to carry much more load than a 3W bulb, so if your trying to use it as an "engine running reference" I would put it through a relay first
-
As well mounted as that electric fan is, its a fail
It will draw its air from around the edge rather than through the radiator
It is also possible to reverse the fan by reversing the wiring and flipping the blades over
But, if you were going to run an electric fan, I would recommend an alternator, as said, their current draw can get up there a bit
-
I like how sometimes people learn why tradesman ask for money
These problems were not difficult for the "trained eye" and would not have taken long to sort out
But, I will say that its good to get an appreciation of whats involved (especially in fault finding) on a simple car and its always good to learn
-
Good idea
-
The flasher switch is behind the steering wheel, probably good to keep on track with fixing stuff as you go and not put it in the "to hard basket" because you end up with lots of things in the to hard basket and the car just sits there because "its to hard"
Yes, a solid state flasher is best, just a side note though, flasher units need a "load" to work
Not sure what state of apart your car is, but make sure you have bulbs in your lights or it wont even try to flash.
Oh and you can keep your hitch hikers
-
I think what your thinking is a second switch is the fuse box
Relatively simple circuit, power from the fuse (marked dr signal) goes to the flasher unit, it should then come out 2 ways from the flasher unit, 1 output (16BP) goes into the flasher switch and comes out to light up the idiot lights on the dash (16RB or 16GP) depending on wether its turned left or right. The other output (16BC) is the main output and that goes to the flasher switch and comes out (16BGC or 16GC) depending on wether its turned left or right, then into the fuse box where it splits to go front and rear
All that said, most common fault will be the flasher unit faulty or a blown fuse
-
1
-
-
5 hours ago, coupekid said:
hello again fellow members !!
...Warren,, I had a similar problem recently with my 57`Buick ... ended up being that the inner wheel cylinder rubber cups had swelled up ...basically when i pressed & released the brake pedal ..the wheel cylinder rubber cups would not retract & this left the shoes applied against the brake wheel drum & if your other side works properly this is why you get pull in that one direction & why you have the extra heat to the culprit side.....i say dont change the expensive master cylinder...check them cheap $2 wheel cylinder cups.
anyways ... something else freaky happened recently aswell ...
I had this Buick engine with rough idle ...for the likes of me i changed everything from spark plug leads, plugs to dizzy cap etc etc ..even removed intake manifold & resealed that down too .. b`cos it felt & sounded like a vacuum leak idle problem... after weeks of scratching my head & going insane ... I eventually found that
the carby base throttle shaft housing ends were slightly worn & letting air in ...
.... i mean ,, C`mon who would have picked that as the culprit ...? its not even found anywhere in GooGle as a rough idle fault possibility..!!
Sorry
but worn throttle shafts are a well known cause of vacuum leaks, glad you found it though
-
20 hours ago, JamesBulldogMiller55Buick said:
"spanner"
That's English for "wrench"
Hmmm, Shoulda writ "Spanna", then I woulda been speakin proper Stralyen hahaha
It is funny talking to the differing countries on these forums, even different regions of the same country (Australia included)
Most things I talk about with the cars, I try to Americanize as its American cars I am normally talking about, but that one slipped through
Most of you would know these, but to us Aussies, a hood is a bonnet, a fender is a guard, a trunk is a boot, a top is a roof and there are probably a thousand other things as well
-
2
-
-
Poor brake adjustment or a restricted brake line
If its a brake line restriction, you will normally get (if its the left front) car pulling to the right under braking, but can pull to the left once the brakes are released for a bit (the fluid is slow to move in and out of the cylinder)
Badly adjusted brakes (if left one is to tight or right one to loose) MAY pull to the left at first While driving, the be ok, but will pull to the left when braking at first, then loose effectiveness and MAY start to pull the other way under braking
Normally, to tight on the brake where it will fade also comes with the lovely burning brake smell
Hotter on one side than the other indicates friction on the hotter side, meaning that side is doing all the work (if the reading was taken after a brake application) or something is dragging (or, as said a too tight bearing) if the readings were done without a brake application
Have fun
-
Take it to a trimmer, A lot of the ripples can be taken out with heat, but you have to be careful
The one I did on my dodge was cloth, so heat wouldnt work on that, but I got it right after a couple of days fiddling around
-
Check your front brake adjustment, as with all these comments, just guessing as I cant see the car, but if your car is pulling to the right after some driving, I would assume the LEFT front brake is slightly dragging causing brake fade, making the right front do all the work.
Get a laser heat gun and go for a drive until you experience the problem, then jump out and check the temperature of the front drums.
Hard part is, you need to stop as quick as you can, but not use the front brakes so the braking to stop and test does not pollute the reading, so do this somewhere out of the way as your going to have to use your e brake to stop and they are generally not that good
-
Having 2 mopars of the same era as my buick, I dont see much difference in the parts hunt for either, some stuff, there seems to be lots of, other stuff is made of "unobtanium"
I try not to rag on the reproduction companies too much and neither should any of you. What I am getting at is pick a random part on your car, say a switch knob, a pulley, even a filter, now make it!
If you get a part thats not right, talk to the vendor, provide pictures, basically help them to help you.
90% of the repair sections I bought for my plymouth and my dodge didnt fit and as I couldnt get all the sections from 1 supplier, I also dealt with supposed adjoining sections with totally different profiles.
Not much point telling them anything though as the panels are stamped in dies that are old and worn out and once they get enough complaints that the panels are to far wrong or nobody buys them anymore, the dies will vanish.
Lap it up while the parts are available and try to help the guys that invest a lot of money into making the reproduction parts for your car.
By the way, look at my location. 2 1/2 day wait for parts is what dreams are made of, try an average of 3 weeks, let alone the cost
-
1
-
-
A little advice from someone thats messed with old cars for years and fixes them for a living, get hold of a service manual and read it, try and get an understanding of how the car works, secondly, your car is an old grandma, put away anything that resembles a power tool. Things on that car have been in the same spot for over 50 years, most things wont "zip out". Bolts need to be soaked (sometimes for a week) and worked loose, 2 spanners if possible. Take your time, enjoy the "fixing of the car". Rip/tear/bust is no fun and expensive and will end in a car in 100 pieces for sale for nothing
Sorry if I sound harsh, but if everything breaks when you touch it, you obvious enthusiasm wont last long
-
6
-
-
Not really sure resin on a resistor would work, they get very hot, The white "stuff" is a ceramic, so it handles the heat, but is fragile.
The ceramic is used to hold the resistor wire in place as it only takes a few back and forth bends to break it
-
2
-
this squeaking is driving me nuts!!!! cant figure it out
in Buick - Post War
Posted
Being right hand drive and not running, I have not experienced this squeak
I would be happy to have it running if the cost of it running was the squeak