Ttotired
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Posts posted by Ttotired
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My 58 special 2 door also has that material (cloth) along the top rubber
I wondered if it was factory, I assume it used to be black, but its a bit faded now (whats left of it) its looks like canvas
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I am an auto electrician (try searching "auto electrician" in your area) and I think it will most likely be out of brushes, but (as said) it could be other things causing it as well, so proper testing should be done and the test (and rebuild procedure) should be in your workshop manual.
That said, I have had to repair a lot of stuff after a home repair has been done by someone who did not really understand what had to be done and charging systems are rather unforgiving if you get it wrong
Also, be aware that even if the brushes have worn out, that will sometimes "upset" the regulator and it may require resetting as well
A proper repair/rebuild should also include the re machining and under cutting of the commutator (part the brushes rub on on the armature) as they wear out of round and as they wear, the insulator between the com bars can end up higher than the bars themselves and the brushes wont contact the bars
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Maybe leaked out?
Drain the tank and see how much fuel comes out
Not really sure jb weld is a good cure for the cracked solder
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My dodge engine is painted with the exact same paint as I painted the bodywork with
Heat paint for exhausts (if you can work out the trick of getting it to stay on and not burn off anyway)
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On the fuel line being rubber all the way, that would be correct, or at least the supply line on my 58 is rubber all the way and the chassis clips match it
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Radials require a different wheel alignment that the bias ply specs
A wheel alignment should fix it
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Exactly
THEY DO MAKE A 6 POLE (OR THEY USED TOO). YOUR ELECTRICIAN SHOULD HAVE BEEN ABLE TO FIX THAT FOR YOU WITH THE DIODES.
Sorry about the caps, but we are communicating across the ocean, so shouting must be required
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Yes, a simple thank you does go a long way
Manners my Mother taught me, sadly lacking in some and especially the younger ones
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Never seen such a setup, but its interesting
What the piston does is give a "line" restriction
Normally, when a car has a return line to the tank, it also has a fuel pressure regulator and the return line is basically a dump line for fuel not required.
The normal carburetor fuel system runs at about 5 or so psi, as that tapping would be technically a leak, it would need to have something to block it so the fuel pump could build up its 5 psi. Unless it doesnt make a good seal to whatever it seals on (and I guess it must be the hose or thats the wrong joiner/valve housing) I cant see how it can do much good at all because there is no way it can govern pressure, its can only restrict or block flow. I wonder if that fuel filter actually has a regulator in it, all it would have to be is a ball valve with a spring?
Now, that housing looks like an ordinary joiner to me, and I wonder wether someone has tried to "fix" a fault and thats there attempt at replacing what was actually a fuel pressure regulator using the piston from inside the original regulator
Personally, I probably would ditch the whole set up and go back to a single line
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It will be your front indicators coming on I think
The hazard switch is bypassing the isolation of the front indicators to the rear indicators/brake lights
The type of hazard switch you need must have 4 independent outputs/contacts for the flashers
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Personally, out it comes.
Judging by the trickle of water in the picture, its cracked into the water jacket.
To weld cast iron, it needs to be preheated to try and bring the whole casting up to a high temperature to help with it not cracking during the weld.
You can look up "Pinning" the crack as well, but however its done, its going to be pricey, only worth it if your insisting on numbers matching.
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Oh yes, I did forget to mention that a poorly or incorrectly painted and detailed engine, and for that matter, engine bay, would greatly adversely effect the starting capabilities of the car, in fact, I have seen this often, particularly at high bling car shows, where very shiny cars with lots of late model stuff in them (I think they call them "restomods") wont start at all and have to go too and from these shows on a trailer. The only cure for these poorly repaired cars is to totally gut them and try and find all the correct missing parts and put the car back together totally factory stock.
I dont understand how so many people fall into this trap, seems every year there are more of them
Looking at the picture of the starter above, to me, it appears to have a little more than the appropriate amount of oil film on it, but it is sadly lacking the correct amount of actual dirt so that during removal, you get 50+y/o gunk in your eye, giving you an affinity with the mechanic of the day that wiped a blob of grease on the starter that the dirt stuck too all those years ago
Good luck with your starting issues, you have a lot of stuff to correct
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Old Tank is right
Machine gunning is caused by a crap battery (weak or flat) or bad cable connections
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Just a little info, if you can not find a starter for your nailhead (original type), there is a stater to suit an International that is exactly the same except the flange on the nose cone is wrong.
Very simple job to just swap nose cones
Your problem with your car normally comes down to the starter, but you must check the cables ect first as others have said
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Not much to report really, I have mothballed the Buick for now due mostly to the costs of the glass I need (Its looking like approximately AU$2000+ for a screen and side glass) as well as the engine rebuild which is also not going to be very economical
Work has dried up somewhat around here, so not as much spare cash floating about to play with it, so I have bought my Plymouth out to fit the rust repair sections I have for it (Did try to sell it, but only got stupid offers, so I will fix it). I did finish resealing the final drive and I have put it and the trans back in the car mostly so I can roll it around, but its undercover now and out of the way and will sit there for a while and (I hate hearing this) "I will get around to doing it one day"
Sleep well Buick
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As light switch is a bit of a generic term, I had a look and its a headlight switch to suit 54-55 Buick.
Here is the link
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15 hours ago, ghaskett said:
I had read where, for example, a Chev Turbo 350 took about 35 hp to run and the Turbo 400 required about 45-50 Hp to run. So, I was curious about the Dynaflow, since it never gets good press.
Never gets good press from who?
If you drive the car properly (like in the owners manual), I dont think your going to have any problems running your dynaflow, however, if you want to go doing burnouts and drag racing from every traffic light you come across (using low range and then slamming into drive, which is not the
recommended way to operate a dynaflow), then you will likely have some problems down the line
The numbers your asking for are probably not available because the way the transmission works is not conducive to use in drag racing, its more a luxury transmission for smooth seamless (no gear change) cruising, so no one probably tested it
Point is, if your concerned about HP use and transmission life, I would go open driveline and your choice of transmission (dont forget the powerglide, used to be a favorite for drag racing)
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Interesting looking stuff although it looks like it isnt available in Australia, but I would love to see how good it is and hear what a plater thinks about it
Mick
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Dumb question, but a bit new to buick, is that piece chromed steel?
One of my cars is a 60 plymouth fury and that has lower 1/4 covers as well, but they are stainless
Mick
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I have to say that the head bolt question scares me a bit.
I am a bit of a classic car lover and try hard to preserve these cars and a question asking if head bolts are special kind of makes me think that you shouldnt be sticking your fingers into that engine, You cant ring up and order a crate one, its not a 350 chev
Nothing wrong with learning, no one here was born with their knowledge, so leave it to your mechanic to fix (if he knows what he is doing and isnt a first year apprentice or something of the like). You can help your mechanic out by offering a workshop manual (you have one right?) so he can have all the specifications he needs.
He is not going to know all the ins and outs of that engine because its rare, rare equals expensive and if you stuff something up, expensive could
happen twice
On the head bolts themselves, in a true engineering world, all stress bolts (like head bolts) should not be reused as when they are tentioned down, they stretch, thats what your supposed to do, I have never replaced a head bolt that was visibly ok, just cleaned and reused and I cant remember ever seeing a broken head bolt (that was being used to hold a head down)
Mick
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About as bad as the heads on my 364, except, the guides are ok on mine
Its going to need a pretty full on fix, as in guides and valves, seats need to be re cut as there is to much pitting to just "lap in"
Springs should be checked (I basically just line them up and make sure they are all the same height, not a proper test, but its done me ok so far)
The last pic is the temp gauge bulb stuck, I was able to get mine out by punching out the core plug at the end of the head and pushing it up with a screw driver (saved the gauge)
Going by ebay prices, not cheap to fix, but not junk
Mick
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I would be interested in a continuation of this thread, you know, pictures as you go along the road to fixed
Sometimes a bit painful remembering to take pictures as you go, but sometimes it can save you if you do something wrong or forget how something was
Mick
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Points file will be best, but sand paper will do, but make sure you clean them well, otherwise the "sand" can melt with the spark and and sort of glass coat the contacts
Sometimes, filing is not necessary, but I have been caught (cheating) enough times not doing it that I now do it as a matter of coarse.
Grease behind the rubbing block is required to lubricate it as it wears down (common mistake not to do this and have the rubbing block wear out quite fast)
The wire from the insulator block to the points must have a bit of "slack" to it or the breaker plate can not move with the vacuum advance, although, I would set that wire up with the terminal around the other way so the wire comes up and away instead of down as it is now
Mick
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All looks right, although the nut on the insulator block inside the dissy looks really close to the breaker plate
You need a test light to see whats going on before you go ripping things apart
With the key on, you should have power (voltage is not an issue yet unless its really low, test light really dull) at the + on the coil and if the points are open, you will also have power on the - of the coil. If the points close, there should be no voltage shown on your light on the - post
If points are closed and you have voltage, the wire to the dissy is broken, the points are incorrectly (or not) connected or the common one, the points have an oxidized coating on them that you need to file off and it hasnt been done, so they dont make a circuit
If the points are open and your test light shows no voltage on the - post, coil could be open circuit (disconnect the wire off the - post and test for voltage on the post again, voltage yes, coil ok, no voltage, coil is open and faulty), so coil ok, continue, check for the wiring between the coil and the dissy being shorted out, check for the wire inside the dissy shorting out (including the nut I mentioned earlier) and that its all wired right (looks right from the pictures) You can also disconnect the condensor inside the dissy incase that is shorted out
Last advice, I would not have messed with the ignition system yet (test first, replace later), once you start throwing stuff at it higldy pigldy it becomes really hard to diagnose as you now have 2 potential problem areas instead of one (it used to start and run, then die, now it wont start, so its worse)
Check the ignition as above, make sure you have spark and that the timing ect is all correct before doing anything else with the carby
Mick
'58 Roof Rail Weatherstrip
in Buick - Post War
Posted
I just had a look at mine, the cloth covers the full length of the top rubber and also the one between the front and rear windows