Ttotired
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Posts posted by Ttotired
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I have to say that the Chevy line, I, like about everyone else, thought the 58 chev was nothing on the 57, but that aside, I love all the stories from the era about the panics the designers used to get into trying to (basically) win a pissing contest
The OP headline from this thread shows that he is well aware of the mopar slogan for the release of the 57 model range "suddenly its 1960" which really seemed to kick the design wars into gear
I am watching the "Crime Story" series at the moment and being full of this era cars of all sorts, really makes you appreciate how hard the designers had to work
There are some really out there cars (eg, 1961 plymouth)
A bit of a disclaimer here
I have a 60 dodge phoenix, a 60 plymouth and I am just starting on my 58 buick
Mick
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I would just fabricate that part, looks pretty simple
Might be harder if its tapered
Mick
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Cool, cant wait
Mick
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So this is where its at today
The blown tire happened before I got it and was a re tread
It did a bit of damage to the inner wheel arch and the lower exterior of the outer wheel arches, but not to drastic
I have straightened out the inner part, but I had to cut it in half and now have to weld it back in
The plan today is to clean the torque tube and pull it apart to check it inside and work out what seals I need to fix the leak
Mick
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I thought I should start a build thread for my Buick
I found this car advertised quite close to me as a 57 Buick, but the pictures showed a 58
I decided to go for a look, just to see the car
I am a big fan of finned era cars, and there are not a lot of Buicks around here
I have just finished a 60 Dodge Phoenix and also have a 60 Plymouth Fury waiting in the wings
When I looked at the Buick, I was surprised at how little rust it had in it (both the Mopars are/were quite rusty), the chrome and trims are not to bad, the interior is very good (just a couple of small holes in the seats that are easy enough to fix) and it had been converted to right had drive many years ago, so I couldnt resist it and a deal was made and it came home
I originally was going to try and flip it, but I kind of like it to much
The first thing I did was tried to get it running, the engine was locked and I spent a couple of weeks getting it to turn
I got it started, but it had a knock in it, so I only drove it down the end of the street and back (with no brakes) just to see if it would move and drive ok, but I went quite slowly and all seemed basically ok except for the knocking and various leaky things
So next was to pull the engine and find what was trying to get out, here is the thread I started on it
http://forums.aaca.org/topic/264513-58-special-engine-removal/
I am going to keep everything here now including the engine repair, but I wont double up on the dis assembly stuff
Basically, the engine is out, cleaned, but partially re assembled (to keep all the stuff together), the dynaflow is cleaned and ready for painting (no game to pull it apart and it seemed to work ok), just pulled the rear axle assembly out to fix the torque tube and the arms (they are a bit bent)
Because of the other 2 cars, I have to try and find room for the Buick parts somewhere before I get to carried away with getting the interior out and getting the trims and glass off
I will add pictures as I go and comments and advice are welcome
Mick
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That would be an awesome thing to restore (hotrod actually)
Definitely be different to drive
Mick
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Oil pressure switch is good, provided the engine will achieve enough to activate the switch while cranking
Most will, but thats what the timer side is for, it will activate the pump for a few seconds, then shut off
If the car goes upside down, no oil pressure, no fuel pump and if you put an inertia switch in it, a big thump and also no fuel
But again, a push button switch to prime is very unlikely to stay on (does happen though), causing any dramas in the case of an accident
Mick
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Just an often not thought about precaution with using electric fuel pumps
You really should wire it through an "engine running" system that has a priming timer function on it/in it
Main reason for this is in case of an accident, you do not want the fuel pump running continually with the ignition key on and possibly pumping all the fuel out (broken fuel line or car upside down)
Just while I was typing this, I thought I would do a bit of a search to see if someone made an aftermarket type of module to do this, seems that they dont?
Fuel injected cars normally have this protection built in as a function of the electronics (ECU or body control module) and also an inertia switch
I am a bit surprised that my search was not that fruitful, might be something worth looking into
I did note that your talking about using it just to prime the engine, but this is a protection against forgetting to turn it off (A push button switch also stops this
) or if the mechanical one fails and you use the primer to get you homeMick
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Well, it sounds like you just want another one, which means searching on ebay ect I guess
The ones that were sealed and not working dont make sense, the gauge works on pressure, so if its sealed, it will work
I guess if the little arms or something in the gauge head itself was broken or stuck, it wouldnt work, but they really are a basic gauge
I cant see how deposits can build up inside, it just sounds like faulty repairs
One thing to consider though is how the capillary is run, it needs to have a "coil" to it or the line will fracture with engine movement
Mick
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I have never repaired a capillary gauge before, but I did find a thread recently on how to do it (not much help when you cant remember where you found it though) and it didnt seem to be that hard
I am wondering is its not some solder or something blocking the tube up?
Found it
http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge
If you have 3 dead ones, what have you got to loose
Mick
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Brandon, how did you get it to look like its vacuum formed?
I recon its a really nice job and one that I have I have to do on my 58
Mick
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I might be showing my ignorance here, but by your heading, I had no idea what this thread was about.
Some people will not look at all the threads and if the "headline" does not grab them, then they wont look
You could call the thread "boobies", you will get a lot of looks and comments, but maybe not about what your wanting to know
:)Mick
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Not sure how cheap brake clean is over there, but its not that cheap here
, pressure washer would be better to get all the dirt ect offIt really could be anywhere, bit check the oil level on the stick first and see how full it is (engine off), I think it will be way overfull, meaning the converter has drained back into the trans, over filling it
Just a guess
Mick
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Just remember, welding sheet metal and welding a bracket together are 2 completely different diciplins
Try running a nice seam along a rear fender and watch what happens
What makes those kits (above) easy to weld is the nice cuts and it shows how nice you need your own cuts (and surrounding metal) to be
Slaggy, rusty, dirty ,painted, lead filled cuts/metal will give you welds that are garbage
You should see the nice mess that the welder makes if you find some lead on a panel that you missed
I am not a welder, but I have also learnt the hard way and practice makes perfect, so I like junkyard metal because it makes you learn what must be done even before the welder is turned on
Working with new steel is cream
Mick
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I got parts for a 65 bird from a place called "the T Bird Ranch"
Try contacting those guys, never know
Mick
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I think everyone that restores old cars has been or will be burnt at some point and it really p*sses you off, but, dont let it get to you, all it will do is sour the enjoyment you are having restoring your car
I am in the auto repair industry and have a very happy and loyal clientele, but thats not to say everyone has been happy with me and it mostly comes down to either price (they wanted it for nothing) or a misunderstanding on what was wanted or expected and what reality is
I am not taking sides here as I really dont know exactly whats happened, but, from a repairers point of view, if someone paid me 1/2 the money (the 300 odd dollars) when the job turned out to be worth double that, then cancelled the job (especially if I had bought in special parts or sunk mega hours into trying to track down something made of unobtanium or both), I would not be overly happy either and if I had to return parts to that customer at my cost, without any hope of having those costs re reimbursed, then I am quite sure I would post it the cheapest way possible as well.
Unless you actually go to the shop and the owner allows you to search his property (highly doubtful) no one can say that he still has those parts.
Stuff does get lost in the post and all the insurance in the world wont stop it (or help with unobtanium parts)
I also know that its very hard to quote on some jobs as you never know what your going to face until you get a good look at whatever it is, but an estimate can be given, but is subject to change
I do feel sorry for the losses as I have had stuff lost as well, but your better off chasing the parts or replacement parts (even if it means re producing them) than expelling energy on something thats not going to bear fruit
Best of luck
Mick
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No and no (I think)
I am not that "up" on the 55 and 56 plymouths, but if yo go here
you will find out anything you ever wanted to know about them
Mick
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Sorry, that I dont know
My car is a 58 and I havnt messed with its booster innards yet
Mick
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Probably not
You should be able to get one made (or make it yourself), it doesnt look that complicated
Do you know where it was supposed to live, that could be the hard part
Mick
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Easy to check exhaust leaks, start the car and put your hand over the tail pipe (assuming a single system, harder on a twin) and the exhaust will build up pressure and start hissing if there is a leak
Also, you could run the engine when its dark and look for spark jumping from one lead to another or bridging the cap (crossfire)
Spark in a cylinder with the exhaust valve open can still re fire, causing a backfire
I like these guessing games
Mick
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Perspective thing
Throwout bearings are behind the clutch, as in towards the rear of the car, where the clutch and pressure plate is towards the front of the car, but, If you are staring at the back end of the engine, then, you would say its in front of the clutch
As far as sliding it back without draining oil ect, kind of depends on how much room you have, but most floor pans wont allow a bell housing to go back far, but if you can unbolt the bell from the gearbox, you should get more room, but the real trick is stopping the tailshaft yoke falling out and all the oil draining out the output shaft
A spare yoke taped to the extension housing is great (if you have one)
The gearbox will have to slide back about a foot, but that depends on the gearbox input shaft length
Side note, gear boxes are really heavy and really hurt when they fall on you, not so much if they fall on your helper
but still painful (you would have to buy them many beers), so using long studs is good, but make sure you keep the box supported on more than just those studsMick
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You need to isolate what cylinder is causing it first
Start the engine and kill 1 cylinder at a time and see if the backfire goes away, you should also have a fairly similar amount of rpm drop as each cylinder is killed
If you kill 1 cylinder and it makes almost no difference to your rpm or the backfire stops, thats where you need to look
I am assuming a stock engine here, if you have messed with the cam, it all goes out the window
Mick
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Excellent info
Mick
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This might stir the pot a little on the 58 mopar fuel injection
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/pts/5328031662.html?lang=es&cc=mx
And here is a thread about it
http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=59899&start=1
Ultra rare, I think there is only one surviving car
The Electrojector system had big problems with electro magnetic interference causing the engine to cut out, thats why they were recalled and replaced with 2x4 carburettors
Mick
Advice Needed - Stainless Trim Repair Service & Polishing
in Buick - Post War
Posted
I have done the polishing myself at home, nothing to it really, just have to be careful that the wheel does not grab your piece and send it flying or worse
Look at the utube videos on the steps to take, its basically like polishing paint
As for the repairs, I cant help, except to say you might have to ring around to find someone thats willing to not just un flatten a trim, but weld one as well
The composition of the stainless can effect the color of it compared to a welded piece/section, so the repair can sometimes still be visible and this type of repair work can be very expensive
Again, watch some utube movies on stainless trim repairs and think of how much labor time will be involved in fixing the trims (Its frightening)
Little dings are not that hard, but re construction is
Good luck
Mick