Ttotired
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Posts posted by Ttotired
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Not worth saving a heap of mucking around and finding the knock?
Might get away with an "in chassis" rebuild, especially if its still matching numbers
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If you don't mind me saying, I think you should at least put a strap or something from your top front compressor mount to a water pump bolt.
Looking at the pictures, it looks like the bracket on the block is a long way back and that the front hole for the compressor is about 1/2 way along the compressors body, theres to much leverage
on that bracket from the belt and the compressor will vibrate and break the bracket over time
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Having never really driven a dynaflow, an open driveline might become a requirement for mine
Not sure if you have seen this one yet
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10208059905122908&set=pcb.993913000739390&type=3
To far away for me to look at
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So, are you going to use the WB diff housing ect as a swap, or cut the brackets off?
If it would fit, the WB diff assembly be much easier to mess with than finding a 61 diff centre
Just trying to get it straight in my head.
I have already re sealed the torque tube in my 58, but if it all goes pear shaped, doing this is an option
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Na, useless statement
My 58 buick (which did not run when I bought it, but got running) has a shattered number 1 piston.
Its the skirt that's broken, so, once I got it running, apart from a knock at idle, it ran fine.
I look at it that the car got "put away" for a reason, so somethings wrong and if its been there a while, then everything is wrong
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Be careful where you send it
I am in Australia and that wouldn't make it through customs
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I have had the same thing with my mopars, the question is not is it worth the money, its is it worth the money to you?
Right now, you have available to you a genuine evaporator, the questions are, do you want it? how long until another one comes up? Will it hold up your build or how you want the car?
If you really want it and they don't come available much, snap it up, if its not hard to find and they come up every so often, then wait and see what prices are like
Myself, I am one of those that search daily for parts when I am in repair/restore mode and if its good and I want/need it, then I buy it, then I have it and don't need to worry about it anymore
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I wondered if it was WB you were thinking
If you change the centre to an open drive shaft, your still going to have to set up a 4 link or leaf springs anyway, so are the WB arms and axle housing
brackets going to be fitted to the buick housing?
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Cheers
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Looks great
Where in Aus are you?
Now comes the hard part, waiting for your new toy to turn up. I recon they should make the ships hydroplane so they can go faster
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I had the same question when I got my 58
Believe it or not, that's the wiper and washer switch. the push button is the washers and you slide the lever for wiper speed.
Its all vacuum controlled, so the engine has to be running and all the vacuum lines hooked up before it will work (if it works)
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IFITWREZ , I don't get it?
If It Wrez? If It Revs?
Get it here as well, personal plates that mean nothing to anyone but whoever dreamt it up
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Pretty keen to see it as well as I might do similar to my 58, although, I will give the dynaflow a go first
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I use reverse electrolysis, just a big tub of water with washing soda in it, some reo bar (anything steel works) and a battery (I keep a charger on it as well)
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I have done the headliner and windlace install once and agree with everyone else
I havnt done up a 53, so I don't know exactly whats involved, but I would have thought 600 to do both would be more correct, ring around mate
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If you cant find gears, you can do a speed test (say 20,30 and40mph) and compare that to a gps speed, then take your info and speedo to a gauge repairer to re calibrate it
Might save you lots of frustration
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I am in Perth
My 58 seats dont lock back either. I am watching this, as I might end up with the same problem.
My car was converter to right hand drive (possibly when the car was new), but was last on the road in 1976 (going by the license sticker), so the stupid licensing dept have no records of the car and it now has to be re engineered
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I used a "dual voice" speaker in my dodge, seems to be ok
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Vicky Blue
Interesting read, I have no idea on your oil leak, but what I am a bit puzzled about is your floor repair.
I didnt see any removable plate to access the master cylinder?
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I dont know where the large mining machines and road haulage trucks are that still use oil bath air cleaners?
I have (and still do) work on those machines for years and they use 2 filters, an outer filter with swirl vanes to handle the bigger particles
and an inner for the smaller stuff. The inners are changed every second service and are never cleaned (recycled), the outers at least every service and can weigh around 50 kilograms or more (mine machines) depending on how the dust conditions have been.
Being that I am in Australia, snow and ice are not really a big concern here, so perhaps thats why we dont see the oil bath cleaners here. I could see where they would be useful in northern USA or Canada (watching "Ice Road Truckers") as I can imagine a frozen over air cleaner would be a pain to fix. Imagine is the key word there as I have only seen snow once when I was a kid and not really keen on seeing it again (horrible cold stuff)
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MSD ect will work fine with a generator, but they will normally cut out at around 10V, so if your crawling along (idling) with the lights on (or whatever) you might run into problems. Generators dont charge well, if at all, at idle
Not a fan of any "luminition" type ignition system (they have a plate with holes in it for an infra red led to "shine" through) seen to many fail, although, some seem to go forever, not brand related, just luck of the draw
I much prefer the "hall effect" type (these are the magnetic ones) I have still also seen these fail, but do seem to be better.
I am using a Chinese copy of a Bosch type distributor in my Dodge and no problems at all.
I will say that if you use a CDI ignition (MSD 6AL or similar) then I would recommend an alternator because this type do use more current, but they are designed to give a stable spark output throughout its working voltage range. they also fire multiple sparks per cylinder (gets less at high rpm because it can only fire so many times before its moving along to the next cylinder) but these types of ignitions are a bit of an overkill for a street cruiser with a relatively stock engine
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Most likely solenoid contacts, but be wary that sometimes a starter will stay engaged if the engine doesnt fire.
I have only noticed this in GM (dont matter what GM) vehicles.
Its caused by the force of the pinion to the flywheel when cranking and the depth the teeth engage as well.
On a chevy (with the bolts going up from underneath) I normally leave them loose when replacing the starter, give it a crank with the coil dis connected and tighten the bolts while the starter is cranking. It pushes the starter out a bit so the teeth dont bind in as hard.
Someone else was having starter issues recently and I put a link up to a "dixie" starter to suit an "International" thats an identical starter except you have to use your original nose cone.
Contact sets should be very easy to get hold of (especially for you guys in the US) as the delco soleniod was basically common to just about every US GM car built for 20 years
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Back of the engine where the line connects and also a plug for the coolant as well.
I would go and buy cheap aftermarket gauges myself to replace the factory ones (until you can put them back) as I dont think running an engine with no oil pressure warning is smart
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Repowering a '55 Special
in Buick - Post War
Posted
Wow, I hate reading how "worthless" a 4 DOOR is