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Fleetwood Meadow

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Everything posted by Fleetwood Meadow

  1. To answer that question, it’s all I had. Today I decided to start tackling the rust inside the door so I could finish the door and put the new window cylinder in. I wire brushed the inside of the door then sprayed it with a rust reforming/converting spray. I then put the wires in the channel and moved onto the next door to remove the cylinder assembly and rewire it. Now both rear doors are rewired and sprayed with a rust converting agent. My next step is to apply the bed liner stuff to the inside of the door so when it rains or the car is washed the water won’t sit on the metal and the moistur
  2. Absolutely not my friends. Sticking to one job until the whole thing pisses you off and you give up is entirely ridiculous. You need to have little wins. I am fixing a door so that I can have windows. That is what I am sticking too. If I decide that that frustrates me I will move onto another thing and have success and feel rejuvenated to go back to finish them further. These cars are meant to be enjoyed and used, not hidden away dismantled for years while we pretend we are making progress. And certainly not sent out to get everything done by someone else then we pretend we did the work. And C
  3. While on a roll with fixing stuff I decided to replace the destroyed wires in the door. There were three of them: 2 for the in-door light that lights up the ground when you open the door and 1 for the window cylinder. The wire covering was completely gone on 2 of them. I thought they were going to be tricky to get at but I cut the wires at the door and then made new wires and snaked them back through the door. Now I have to find the metal covering that goes on the to protect them when the door is opened and closed. The metal connectors previously used were pretty interesting. I tested the wire
  4. I tackled the speedometer cable today, it is essentially the wrong cable. I didn’t know that the cables inside the cable housing were different sizes. I took the gear out and checked it thinking it was broken or that some of the old cable was broken off in it but it wasn’t. So I put the old cable in it and tried to spin it without spinning the gear and it wouldn’t because it was the right size. I put the new cable in it and the cable spun inside the gear housing. So that means the cable I bought has a smaller diameter than the original and that was the problem. I checked the speedometer to mak
  5. So I didn’t know that the cables inside the cable housing were different sizes. I took the gear out and checked it thinking it was broken or that some of the old cable was broken off in it but it wasn’t. So I put the old cable in it and tried to spin it without spinning the gear and it wouldn’t because it was the right size. I put the new cable in it and the cable spun inside the gear housing. So that means the cable I bought has a smaller diameter than the original and that was the problem. I checked the speedometer to make sure it will function and I checked that the gear was locked into pla
  6. I have been using 15-40 in it. The book says 20 weight. Starting that car is a monster after it’s hot. It takes a lot of cranking and after a little bit of cranking I end up holding the gas pedal down to the floor and it finally starts up. When it’s idling I can see the bubbles in the fuel bowl. They put the pump on the upper crankcase breather so the lines going to it from the tank and going to the carburetor are on top of the engine. I have the one going to the fuel pump way above the engine, about 10” higher. When driving the car doesn’t act up but when idling after it’s warm it will shut o
  7. I have an electric pump. But that’s not the problem that I’m trying to tackle here. My issue is the 209 degree coolant temp when the thermostat is 180. That seems way to hot and is vaporizing the fuel. I should not have to operate an electric pump when the car didn’t come with it. They were able to keep the car running with its mechanical pump. I understand that when outside temperatures get high or the car is sitting too long idling there is a rise in temperature and the electric pump will temporarily fix the issue but I need to get the engine temperature down to the appropriate temp first an
  8. Before I start ripping this engine apart again I have to be certain what I’m looking for. When I put the bearings in I used std bearings. I didn’t measure because being new at it I didn’t know I had to. When I start the car the oil pressure light shuts off and I’m happy. The car runs great and I take it for a ride. The first stop sign the light is off still. After about 10 minutes and the engine is warm I stop at a stop sign and the oil light comes on. I take off and the light goes off. If the car goes into 4th gear while I’m driving about 25 around town the light flickers on and off and after
  9. Great looking car Keith. Help me understand, you have a ‘54 engine with a starter in it. That eliminates the need for a crank handle correct? Or do you think you might put back in the original engine?
  10. So would the racing fuel, which I think is something like 110 octane lower the temperature 25 degrees to get the engine to 180?
  11. Thank you for that message. Very few people respond in this thread while less exciting (in my opinion) projects have a million people following them. I have been debating lately to just stop writing in it because nobody seemed interested. On the mopar website there is a buddy of mine with a 1951 Dodge Meadowbrook and he has 33 pages in his story with people constantly writing in it. I thought about showing my car here but I don’t have as many fun stories as he does. And that car is pretty good on repairs so I don’t have much to talk about with it. But it was my first old car, bought it in New
  12. I had also noticed that day that the radiator hoses were 209 and 185. That seems kind of high for a temp. I am trying to figure out why so much heat is staying in the engine bay instead of going out the exhaust pipes.
  13. Spinneyhill I do have a leaking gasket on the differential so I have to keep adding oil at the beginning of the season. The gears may have been ground down by the leak before I got the car. It runs great and doesn’t give me any problem I just hear the slight scraping sound. My first check will be at the rear brakes and then move inward.
  14. Ed, I’ve been toying with the idea of a return line. As 48 said, ethanol free gas is probably the way to go and there is a place in town that sells it in the form of racing fuel but I struggle with paying an extra dollar a gallon in a car that has a 20-something gallon tank and 11 mpg. I’m sure the return line is simple in design but where and how does it connect to the existing fuel line and gas tank?
  15. Jim, thank you for your input. I have a 1954 Motors manual that came in the back of my Meadowbrook. I have used it for specific things when I’m trying to repair things but sometimes I don’t know where to start. I’ve noticed a lot of guys on here are great and I write these things hoping they will weigh in. And then there are the others who’s responses are always to replace it or send it out to get fixed. I will not do either if I can fix it myself. I’m planning on rebuilding an engine and every time I bring something about that sort of thing everyone keeps saying to send it out. It’s always be
  16. It is an electric sending unit. I have never had good luck searching for anything on this site. The other question that I am struggling with is why is it so hot? That will cause my vapor lock issue. It’s a new water pump that is working, a new thermostat that opens properly, the radiator is working, and I have flushed the engine block.
  17. I apologize Rusty for not mentioning that. After being on here for years and posting many things I was under the assumption that people would start to recognize my handle. I even am in the Restoration threads talking about my car. This one happens to be a 1952 Cadillac Series 75 with a Hyda-Matic 4 speed.
  18. In the event that the axle has been worn what do I do to correct that? It doesn’t rumble or noticeably make the scraping/thumping sound when traveling over 20mph.
  19. I’m trying to get my speedometer working again. I drove it last year and it stopped working halfway through a drive. I bought a new one and hooked it up and it didn’t work. So I made sure everything was tight and the connection at the transmission was loose. Thinking I solved the problem I got in the car and drove and it didn’t work. So I removed the speedometer side of the cable and drove. The cable isn’t spinning. I can spin the back of the speedometer and it functions. How does the mechanism in the transmission function? Do they fail or is my problem somewhere in cable even though it’s bran
  20. My ‘52 Cadillac is fighting me again. The temperature gauge is only showing 1/4 of the way up the gauge and the carburetor is vapor locking on me. I checked the inner and outer radiator hoses and they were 209 and 185. So to me that indicates that the radiator is doing it’s job. Clearly the gauge is not measuring properly. Not sure if the gauge can be 12 or 6 volt dependent but the sending unit is 6 volt as is the rest of the car. However I don’t know what the owner before me did in terms of the gauges. What is my next course of action in terms of checking and correcting this. I have to keep t
  21. I lifted the rear end and spun the tires with my hand. I can hear the scrape scrape scrape of the driver’s side brake. There is a very slight jiggle that I can do with the passenger’s side tire. I can’t see it but I can feel it when I rock the tire grabbing the top and bottom of the tire. But I was hearing, so I thought, the thumping in the driver’s side. I may be wrong. I can also hear the spindle gear clanking as it rotates, as if it is dry.
  22. I have 2 different cars and 1 wiper arm on each car doesn’t stay down on the windshield strong enough to wipe away the rain. Where would I find the replacement springs for them? The wiper arm springs are different for the 2 cars.
  23. I took the car for a ride today and it worked great, got some compliments at the gas station too. I noticed that when stopped and then taking off up a hill the transmission seems to slip. At one point up the longest hill of the trip from a stopped position I floored the pedal and the engine revved as though it was in neutral. Once the car levels out the car takes off and the transmission works great. The dipstick showed the fluid at a little above full. I had forgotten to check it when the car was running but I had shut it off about 1 minute before.
  24. I did a reading after filling up the tank and the gauge read a little below 1/2. I took the lead wire off, the gauge when the key was turned on read full indicating the gauge is working, and the ohm meter read 22 ohms. I connected the lead wire again and the gauge went to between 1/2 and 3/4. I jiggled the wire and the gauge stayed there. I took it for a ride and the gauge stayed in that spot. It is actually in the same spot as the original posted picture.
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