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Fleetwood Meadow

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Everything posted by Fleetwood Meadow

  1. So I got the seat back into the car and tested the cylinder for it and it moved the seat back and forth beautifully so I took it to the driveway and fixed the speedometer cable and the driveshaft insulators that were broken. I put 5 gallons of gas in it and took it down the road. It shifted 1-4 perfectly, which is unusual for the first mile in that car, but it ran rough at idle and still a little rough driving. When I stopped the car at the garage there was light smoke coming from the driver’s side exhaust. I parked it and took out the spark plugs. 2,4,6,8 were all a uniform light brown color.
  2. After using the underseat cylinder a couple times the gasket inside must have swelled because it doesn’t leak anymore.
  3. I am in the process of getting the vacuum parts of my ‘52 Series 75 working and I’m struggling with the vacuum antenna. Any tips on how to get the bolt on the bottom out of the cast iron without snapping the iron or the bolt? On my parts car the bolt snapped then the cast iron snapped when I tried to remove the bolt from it. When I finally got the bottom off, which does not come off easily since the car was left outside for many years, I found the 2 disks inside attached to the moving shaft of the antenna but I don’t see any leather or rubber attached to it like I saw another site saying it’s
  4. With that being said, what is the best way to park a longer car? I haven’t had the chance to take my Cadillac out but it’s just about 20’ long. Do I park to the line and stick out into the driving lane or do I park flush to the driving lane and push into the parking spot in front of me? I’m not sure of the eticate for that one. My Dodge is only 17’ so there is no problem there.
  5. That’s hard to really answer. The mechanic that did my transmission has a guy that does them. It took about 3 days. In-Gear Transmission in Douglas, MA is my mechanic. Does great work and has a lot of experience with Hydra-Matic transmissions.
  6. I just got my Mopar 813 radio for my ‘51 Meadowbrook. Although the radio needs some new capacitors it is a great piece to restore. It was packed very well. And I got it in 2 days!
  7. My heater core came in. It looks like he replaced the whole core and kept the housing and outlet tubes. He must have even found a hole in one of them! Not looking forward to putting it back in.
  8. When I bought my Cadillac it was 575 miles away. I sent $500 through PayPal and agreed that when I got there, if I was still satisfied with the car, I would give him the remaining balance. If he wouldn’t agree to that I was not going to do business with him.
  9. I’m not sure if this helps but it’s a checklist for Hydra-Matics.
  10. The radio works! Well sort of. I wish I could add video so it could be heard. The radio has a Selector bar so it scans for the signal. I can hear random voice and music sounds but it doesn’t stop of any of the stations. The car is in the garage so that might be why but I’m excited; it’s the first time I’ve heard sound come out of it. I’ve had it one several times before but never with any sound.
  11. That’s sort of what I thought had happened. Does ATF do the same thing? I have to replace a window cylinder or two and I was debating just replacing them all. They say that with the new cylinders the rubber seals are more resistant and to use ATF instead of the brake fluid because it won’t have to be flushed and changed.
  12. Hi all, I don’t normally come into the Buick forum because I have yet to buy one. Give me time though and I’ll get there. But I have a ‘52 Cadillac and it seems that Buick and Cadillac had similar features, such as that pesky hydro-lectric window system. I’m battling that right now, if any of you are interested, in the restorations section of this site. But I went to open the driver’s vent window and the know just spun. When I pushed it out further the mechanism caught and it opened. So I took the regulator out and broke it open and found that they used aluminum as the shaft and gears. I can’t
  13. I have finally figured out the shorting issue in the rear of the car. Whenever I would open the rear doors the interior light would turn on but the window switches would no longer work. With the doors closed I would press a switch and nothing would work in regards to the windows but the interior light and light under the door would turn on very dim. I spent the last 3 hours tracing wires and using different lead wires to pinpoint the problem. It turned out to be the hot wire coming from the front of the car. It was broken in half. Somehow it was grabbing power from the dome light, I’m assuming
  14. As those of you who follow my thread about my ‘52 Cadillac in another section of this site know I have been battling the windows in it. The Motovator motor did not work, then it did, then I busted a line and brake fluid sprayed everywhere. I fixed that and then one of the cylinders now leaks whenever it is operated. I have also been battling the electrical system in it. I had found a broken wire leading to the back of the car that operated the rear windows. I replaced that. But that was before the window line that is filled with brake fluid broke and sprayed all over the harness that is going
  15. I went out to move the windows up and down to see how they handled. The seat cylinder didn’t leak anymore. The front windows went up and down perfectly. The front passenger cylinder still leaks as it is going up though. The rear windows don’t have the large spring to move them down and the switches don’t work back there so I could only pull the drivers rear down. It worked great but leaks. And then I saw the big puddle under the door. The line in the door has let go. So it is another line to replace. I think I’m going to buy a roll of tubing and make as many new lines as I can access. The. I w
  16. I used Evaporust Thermocure. It is used with water and designed for the cooling system. I used it in my 51 Dodge and it worked great. The car used to overheat and I couldn’t fix it. I ran it through 3 flush and drain cycles and it removed all the rust and problems and the car hasn’t overheated again. The inside of the block is the cast iron gray that it is supposed to be. You’ll know when it’s time to drain the fluid because the water will turn black. It says to leave it in for a few hours but I left it in for a two weeks each time and had no problem. I found it at Walmart and it was relativel
  17. M-mman is selling a 58 Pacer in the Cars For Sale section.
  18. These are pictures of the parts car heater including the heater core that is shown in the previous post.
  19. I took the firewall heater out of the parts car and took the heater core out of it. It’s a rear hassle to get at, I’m assuming these were an early-days throw away and replace part based on how it is constructed. The whole thing is plug and play. The heater in my green car leaks as soon as the system builds up pressure. So I figured that since I have another one I can explore the options or replacing the core. Every screw had to come out in order to allow clearance of the heater core to come out. I took it to the sink and flushed the pipes. That’s when I noticed this one leaks too. There are 4
  20. Were windshield washers available in 1951 for Dodge? My Meadowbrook has a windshield wiper switch that pushes in and I am curious if it was a vacuum or electric button to operate washers in cars equipped with them.
  21. I turned on the pump and found a broken line right at the firewall so I replaced that and turned put every window up. They went up very quickly. The driver’s rear window stays open 1/2” though. The underseat cylinder sprays fluid when it’s fully extended. 2 of the other cylinders leak slightly down themselves also. I’m hoping that if I use them a little the rubber will swell inside and they won’t leak.
  22. I took the pump out of the car. With it all apart I didn’t see much of anything jumping out so I cleaned the metal between the windings, the armature, and the metal where the brushes rise (the name of that area escapes me.) I took the brushes off and cleaned them along with the area that they sit. I also retwisted the wire connected to the brushes. I tested the continuity and things seemed different than I had expected so I took the housing from the parts car and tested it and it seemed right. I cleaned that and put it on and tested it and sure enough it worked. So I went to put it in an
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