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Fleetwood Meadow

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Everything posted by Fleetwood Meadow

  1. I haven’t read the other sides compression yet. I took the car around the block and it didn’t smoke and ran very well. When I shut it off the carburetor didn’t spit any gas when the engine was shut off. I guess that the electric fuel pump was creating too much pressure. It’s going to rain for a couple days. I’ll get the compression of all of them the next nice day after the engine is warm.
  2. Thank you so much guys for the great answers. When I rebuild my ‘51 Dodge’s engine I want to make sure I’m getting the right sized rings.
  3. I replaced the valve springs on the odd side. I know I’m not supposed to do a compression on a cold car but I did just to see where it stood: #1 80 #2 90 #3 95 #4 120 When I did start it I ran it fast and checked to see that oil was getting to the rockers. Oil came out nicely as it should. What I find perplexing is that the engine idles and revs smoothly. I took the electric fuel pump wire off and ran the car strictly on the mechanical fuel pump. It ran great. Unfortunately I forgot to look and see if the carburetor was still shooting gas out when it
  4. Engine Rebuilding 101: -Can someone explain to me the difference between STD rings and .010, .020, etc.? -Are the standard rings the same size as oversized rings, the oversized rings are just a wider diameter? Or are the oversized rings thicker in size? What I mean by thicker is if you lay the ring down and use a caliper to measure the size of the piece of metal, not the diameter, is it thicker/wider than a standard ring? -Also, can you use an oversized ring on a standard piston? -If someone bored an engine would they bore every cylinder or just
  5. I replaced the valve springs on the odd side. I know I’m not supposed to do a compression on a cold car but I did just to see where it stood: #1 80 #2 90 #3 95 #4 120 When I did start it I ran it fast and checked to see that oil was getting to the rockers. Oil came out nicely as it should. I took the electric fuel pump wire off and ran the car strictly on the mechanical fuel pump. It ran great. Unfortunately I forgot to look and see if the carburetor was still shooting gas out when it was shut off. I will look the next time I run it. There was so much blac
  6. -It does have an electric fuel pump, I have now added a switch to use it only when needed. Haven’t installed the new springs yet to start it to see if the switch helps the carb not build up too much pressure, in the event that it is. -The car is a 4 barrel Carter WCFB. I don’t know if it has an anti-percolation system or not. I can’t get the thing to adjust properly as it is. I can tighten both mixture screws and it still runs the same as if I had them open. -The gaskets under the carb are all new so I would like to think that the heat is ok. It can run and start ever
  7. What’s it look like? You can pm me that so it doesn’t distract the thread. If I am not mistaken ‘53 went to 12v and electric windows, didn’t it?
  8. I was told that the cylinders can not be taken apart, they are sealed units.
  9. Thank you for the great responses. It sounds like it is an expensive system. So bottom line, if I want to use ATF I need to spend $600 on cylinders and another $100 on rubber lines. Doesnt sound like a great use of money. Unless someone knows where I can buy 4 window cylinders and an underseat cylinder for less.
  10. Exciting news is that the radio was finding stations! I had the volumn all the way up and it was barely a whisper but I could hear it and the video I took of it you could hear it clearly. I wish I could put the video here, but imagine One Direction playing through an almost 70 year old radio. 🤪
  11. And this was in the #1 cylinder however the spark plug wasn’t covered in wet oil. It was dry.
  12. I have original window cylinders in my ‘52 Cadillac. That means I need to use brake fluid in them. They say that if I use ATF in them the original rubber in he cylinders will get destroyed. But the advantage to ATF is they claim it doesn’t need to be changed yearly. However, they say that the dot 3 brake fluid that is used needs to be changed yearly due to the absorption of moisture into the fluid. The new cylinders can use ATF but are expensive. With new fluids, such as dot 5, a silicone based fluid which they claim does not absorb moisture, can that be left in the system without the yearly f
  13. I took a picture inside the cylinder that had the broken valve and this is stuck to the side of the wall. I don’t know what it is. The cylinders that I checked look great though, with the exception of whatever that is.
  14. Sigh, to add to the lost battle today I went back into the garage tonight to get my ‘51 Dodge to go out for a spin and the overwhelming smell of gas was in the garage. I pushed the Cadillac out of the garage because I knew it came from me filling it up. And this is what I found. I thought I fixed the leak at the sending unit but the little rubber gaskets seem to be worthless. I’ll end up making a cork one once I can get the car running again and get it to the driveway. Until then I don’t know what I’m going to do with the leaking gas. All I do know is I couldnt leave it in the garage dripping
  15. Could the floats be too high and it’s causing the fuel to spray out of the jets when the car is off? I’m wondering if I am washing the cylinders by too much fuel being forced out of the carb. I can’t seem to get any change when I adjust the mixture screws
  16. So I took the car out and did the hill thing, and rougher driving as was suggested. The car ran great for about 20 minutes. Then i started hearing what sounded like a rod knock. So I headed home. Every time I stopped the car it stalled. When I parked the car and shut it off the carburetor kept dumping gas into the intake, which explains the hard start when I stopped to get gas along the ride. I took the covers off and assured that oil was getting up there. Then I saw it.. the broken valve spring. I wouldn’t have been so concerned about it because I didn’t replace them when I rebuilt the e
  17. So I took the car out and did the hill thing, and rougher driving as was suggested. The car ran great for about 20 minutes. Then i started hearing what sounded like a rod knock. So I headed home. Every time I stopped the car it stalled. When I parked the car and shut it off the carburetor kept dumping gas into the intake, which explains the hard start when I stopped to get gas along the ride. I took the covers off and assured that oil was getting up there. Then I saw it.. the broken valve spring. I wouldn’t have been so concerned about it because I didn’t replace them when I rebuilt the engine
  18. Roughly how many miles should I put on it before I should start to try correcting “issues?” I know that break in periods vary and I’m trying to just wait it out but when should I start to assume that issues aren’t just a break in struggle?
  19. That’s what I’m going to do. The engine only has about 200 miles so the rings may not have seated yet.
  20. I’m not exactly sure on the heads. The seller never touched the disassembled engine. He said that the heads had been rebuilt by the time he had bought it. I replaced the seals and the clips that hold the spring onto the valves. It was the first time I had rebuilt an engine so I didn’t try to jiggle the valves around to see if they moved. The engine only has about 200 miles on it since it was first started.
  21. Also found this. Does this make sense? (Options 1&2)
  22. If you follow my thread in Our Cars you will know I rebuilt the engine last year. It was my first one and I didn’t do all of the things I should have done, such as measure cylinders before ordering rings. However the car runs great. I parked it in November and started it up and let it run for a couple minutes every month until I took it out for a spin today. It shifted 1-4 perfectly, which is unusual for the first mile in that car, but it ran rough at idle and still a little rough driving. When I stopped the car at the garage there was light smoke coming from the driver’s side exhaust. I parke
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