Riviera63
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Posts posted by Riviera63
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15 hours ago, telriv said:
Tom Telesco
12 Cook St.
Norwalk, Ct. 06853-1601
phone 203-324-6045
Tom,
Postage was $3.75. Frame is on its way. Send check to: Bill Mawbey, 5893 Clark Street, Stevens Point WI 54482. Thanks.
Bill
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24 minutes ago, telriv said:
Tom Telesco
12 Cook St.
Norwalk, Ct. 06853-1601
phone 203-324-6045
Tom,
I will package and get shipping costs to you tomorrow. Thanks.
Bill
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40 minutes ago, telriv said:
Since no one else has stepped up I'll take it. Let me know arrangements nec. Can I send you a personal check???
Tom T.
Tom,
Send me your address. I'll get what the postage will be and get back to you. Personal check is fine. Thanks.
Bill
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Changed the price to $8.00 as the savings on S & H not significant. Thanks.
Bill
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8 hours ago, rodneybeauchamp said:
Just bringing this back to the top, can anyone flick a picture of the Riviera, Built Expressly for ...... plate fitted to the 1963 console? Thinking to fit mine below the ash tray but would like to see where others were installed. No big deal, but like to get it close?
Rodney,
Here are three pictures. One is a shot of the plate in my 63 and another is a shot of where the plate is shown on the actual application card a new Riv owner got. They look to be in the same location. I also threw in a shot of the other side of the application card.
Bill
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5 hours ago, kreed said:
Found this old thread and thought I would ask if anyone knows where to get the original tan cloth with foam backing trunk material that as in the first generation Rivs . I understand Jenkins was at one time supplying this material but so far unable to connect with them . Has anyone found an acceptable alternative that is even half way close ? Thanks
KReed
ROA 14549
Clark's has the correct stuff with tire cover but, very pricey. CARS, Inc. has a very nice alternative that is inexpensive and looks nice. Includes the half tire cover. It is actually listed for a 65 but, I put it in my 63 and am very happy with it. Part # TM65R.
Bill
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HI,
I have a very nice original manual antenna for sale. This antenna was just removed from my 1963 Riv less than 2 weeks ago. I had thought about keeping it but, decided that I would rather have someone make use of it rather than sit on a shelf for 25 years. The chrome mast is in nice shape with no pits or marks. The black plastic insulator is also in nice shape with no cracks. It also comes with a mounting bracket. I have it for sale on e-bay for $75.00 plus S & H. Forum price $50.00 plus S & H. PM me if you are interested and I can figure the shipping cost for you. I will also be in Brookfield for the BCA Meet and could bring it there to save on S & H. Thanks.
Bill
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Hi,
I have a brand new ROA License Plate Frame for sale. I ordered 2 for my Riv not realizing that the frame sits a little too high to use in the rear. It will hit the license plate light and you will not be able to open the fuel filler door. This is a really nice, high quality, chrome, metal frame. These sell for $10.00 plus $4.00 Shipping from the ROA. I will sell for $8.00 and send it first class which should be less for shipping, saving you a couple of bucks. I will also be in Brookfield for the BCA Meet and can bring it there to save on S & H. PM me if interested. Thanks.
Bill
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12 minutes ago, jsgun said:
My antenna is stuck, raised about 3". I am not looking forward to dealing with that thing.
I pulled the gas tank from my 64 a couple weeks ago, and had the number "14" written on the top. Same yellow color paint, and same kind of writing actually. I love finding things like that.
I was at a pick-a-part yard several months ago, and found a dash panel from a 75 Eldorado. On the back of it, was a large frowning face written in that same kind of paint marker.
I love finding those things as well. Getting just the antenna out is pretty easy. Send it out to Barney Eaton. He will get it running like new at a very reasonable price and has a quick turnaround. At least he did with me. He might be a little busier now.
Bill
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10 hours ago, whitewatersky said:
thanks for all this.... upcoming job over the next few months !
You are welcome. I have a few more pictures of the power antenna install in a separate thread " Operation Power Antenna Successful" if you are interested. Thanks.
Bill
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On 6/16/2017 at 9:38 PM, 1965rivgs said:
Bill,
There are 2 stirrup shaped, spring loaded clips which secure the forward edge of the dash pad. They index into brackets on the dash pad and as the dash pad is installed and pushed forward the spring loaded stirrup clips engage the brackets and rotate as the pad is pushed forward to pull the forward edge of the dash pad down and tight. Often, the forward edge of the dash pad is stuck by overlap of windshield sealer so watch out for that. Otherwise, if a good yank of the pad rearward does not do the trick, you can disassemble the dash fascia and once you have access to the stirrup clips, encourage the release of the clips thru direct manipulation...hard to describe in text but when you are "there" my description will make sense. Hope this helps,
Tom
P.S. When you install the dashpad, resist the temptation to push hard on the forward edge....unless you relish the experience of triple Benjamin's evaporating before your eyes.....ask me how I know!!
Tom,
You were correct about the dash pad clips. Your description made absolutely no sense before we tackled the antenna install. Once we got the dash pad off and saw the clips it all fell into place. We got the dash pad back in with no damage. Thanks.
Bill
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Hi,
The long awaited installation of my power was today and I am happy to say successful. All in all it was "relatively" painless. As usual with any project that one does, you see where you could streamline the process or do things differently if you did it over. There was a lot of learning that went on (so that's how they did that) and that is one of the things that is so rewarding.
We did have a couple of anxious moments. We removed the glove box liner for a little easier access to everything. After we reinstalled it we closed the glovebox door and then could not get the door open again. Push the button, the door popped up but, would not release. We were beside ourselves as we saw no reason why it would not release and saw no way to get in there to access the problem. After a long period of brainstorming and attempts to get it open we were stumped. For some reason I tried it one more time and it opened. Once open we could see that the problem was that a screw to hold the glove box liner in place was too long and was trapping the wire latch on the door in place even though the lock mechanism had released it. The other anxious moment was when I was testing running the antenna mast up and down. I did not realize how long this mast is! I was running it up with the intention of putting it up all of the way. It is a good thing we both were paying attention as it went up and hit the overhead garage door, curved and tried to keep on going sideways. Fortunately no damage. The only casualty was a plastic wire connector that I had in my pocket and is still missing in action even after clean-up. Luckily I had another one.
I have attached some pictures that might be of interest showing some different items. Including the often described but, rarely seen dash clips. One of the most interesting discoveries we made was two sets of the number 522 that were used on the assembly line I assume to make sure that the correct dash pad was placed in the correct car body. I also got to see the assembly date of my dash cluster, April 11, 1963 which jives with the May 1963 assembly of my car.
If anyone has any questions I would be happy to answer them.
Bill
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13 hours ago, 1965rivgs said:
Bill,
There are 2 stirrup shaped, spring loaded clips which secure the forward edge of the dash pad. They index into brackets on the dash pad and as the dash pad is installed and pushed forward the spring loaded stirrup clips engage the brackets and rotate as the pad is pushed forward to pull the forward edge of the dash pad down and tight. Often, the forward edge of the dash pad is stuck by overlap of windshield sealer so watch out for that. Otherwise, if a good yank of the pad rearward does not do the trick, you can disassemble the dash fascia and once you have access to the stirrup clips, encourage the release of the clips thru direct manipulation...hard to describe in text but when you are "there" my description will make sense. Hope this helps,
Tom
P.S. When you install the dashpad, resist the temptation to push hard on the forward edge....unless you relish the experience of triple Benjamin's evaporating before your eyes.....ask me how I know!!
Tom,
Thanks for that. I'm sure your post will be of help and we will get it figured out somehow. I will report back with the results of our adventure and try to take some pictures of the process, clips, etc. to help along anyone else that may try the power antenna install and /or dash pad removal.
Bill
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Hi,
This Sunday my brother-in-law and I are going to attempt to replace the fixed antenna mast on my 63 with a power antenna. I have all the necessary components including the power antenna mast unit which Barney Eaton did his magic on. Barney is great. If you have a power antenna issue, give Barney a shout. I am just looking for some tips or advice from anyone that has done this that may make our installation go a bit smoother. I have already gotten the access panel loosened so that will be no problem. We are assuming that the installation will be easier if we remove the dash pad. Is this assumption true? This is my first concern. I have read all of the threads which talk about how to remove the dash pad. I understand the concept. A couple of weeks ago I tried to get it off. It would not budge. Yes, I had all of the screws out. I am hesitant to use brute force as it is pristine and do not want to damage. Does anyone have any little tricks or advice they may have that they used to loosen a stubborn dash pad? Any advice on any part of this process would be appreciated. Thanks.
Bill
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35 minutes ago, Seafoam65 said:
If you want to victimize someone, park next to a railroad crossing and hit your horn when someone is about to cross the tracks!
Winston,
That's hilarious! I will keep that in mind.
Bill
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3 hours ago, RivNut said:
Try unhooking the two clam she'll horns and see if the harness will carry enough juice to activate the long horns. Can you draw and post a schematic of the way you wired the Horns?
Ed,
You have solved the problem indirectly for me by having me go to a diagram. I was going to scan the page from the chassis manual that shows the wiring for the horns and put it in the thread when I replied to you. I looked at the diagram again and then went back out to the car to take a look. Operator error seems to be the problem. For some reason I plugged the brown wire from the horn relay into the wiring harness instead of the blue wire. Why? I don't know. Switched the wires around and everything is as it should be. The horns sound fantastic. I can't wait to try them out on someone. It should not take very long to find my first victim with the way people drive. Thanks.
Bill
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Hi,
I got my main wiring harness fixed up for the 4 note horns and installed. When I hit the horns I only get the stock horns. I have tested the hood mounted horns individually by jumping them to the battery and they work fine. When tested individually or as a pair hooked up with the main wiring harness all I get is a fainting clicking when I depress the horn bar. Any ideas or suggestions as to what the problem might be? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Bill
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7 hours ago, 1965rivgs said:
Bill,
If you refer to post #35 fig. 11-202 the engineers are grounding the left horn and in the diagram it says "to the right side" for the ground wire. I realize this is an early arrangement but if they grounded both horns in that arrangement it makes sense that the grounding needs in the later arrangement did not change. Horns pull quite a few amps and demand a good solid ground to sound properly. "Clean, bright and tight"! A hinge is not a solid connection by its nature and although it is likely a ground will be obtained one way or another (thru the hinges or latch when the hood is closed) such a ground may not be consistent.
I sent you a diagram with measurements for installation...what is the wiring arrangement on that diagram?
Tom
Tom,
I have a copy of the 64 Service Manual page and the 65 page that you sent me. Both seem to show a ground wire going just from the small horn lower bracket to the firewall. Neither seems to show a wire from the large horn to the smaller horn as the 63 Service Manual shows. It is hard to tell though as the 64 & 65 copies I have are fairly small and slightly blurry.
I do have the horns mounted and the hood seems to close with no problems. I had a ground wire made and have it attached. I ran it from the lower bracket on the small horn to the firewall. There was a phillips screw in my firewall that served no apparent purpose and it seemed to be in a good location so I did not even have to drill a hole. Jim Cannon suggested using star washers on the ground wire connections and also to put one on one of the the bolts for the larger horn to get a good bite on the metal through the paint. I did as Jim suggested with the star washers. I did install the main wiring yet as I am having a couple of the connector connections redone as they seemed a bit iffy. I tested each horn separately by using a jumper wire to the battery. Both horns worked to perfection. The horn tone had been adjusted by the vendor before he sent them to me. The sound seemed good to me. We'll see how things work when I get the main harness installed.
Thanks to Chuck for the ground wire picture and thanks to Jim for all of his advice that he sent my way in this thread and via a PM.
Bill
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1 hour ago, rodneybeauchamp said:
Too late she cried!
All are now back on but they are easy peasy to remove and not that much of an issue to replace. ?
Interesting that the HOT/COLD lenses fell out of position first time because the inexperienced installer was a little rough in trying to get it back in first time (round one) ? As a result I used a tiny touch of Weldbond on ALL the lenses to keep them secure and flat against the bezel. Let that dry for a while to ensure they stayed put. ?
The installer then took a much more careful approach in installing them as he now has learnt how to do it properly. Good thing he is only on Work Experience and not getting paid for anything he does?
If the W.E. bloke (me) can't get the clock out carefully tomorrow with the other bezels in place, might try your approach with them both removed. Really looking forward to hearing that TICK, TICK, TICK, THUMP?
Rodney,
My Hot/Cold lenses fell out as well. I did not notice until I went to fire it up the next day. It gave me quite a shock to see bare bulbs lighting up in front of me and seeing them missing. Fortunately, they dropped out inside the gauge. Getting out the clock with them in is easier than getting it reconnected.
Bill
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1 hour ago, rodneybeauchamp said:
Hi Bill, thanks for that, Seafoams aka Winston reply to your topic gave the clue and now you have just confirmed it.
I had just taken the speedo and fuel/amp/temp bezels off to clean them as I could see the Allen head screw securing them. Great thing about these cars is you can take most things apart to clean and refurbish them without too many dramas.
Clock is now tomorrow's challenge, hopefully just a clean as per Eds post some time back to start it working again.
Rodney,
If you have the other bezels off, leave them off until you remove and then reattach the clock. I removed the bezels when I reinstalled the clock. I seemed to get better access and leverage when reattaching the light and power lead.
Bill
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1 hour ago, rodneybeauchamp said:
Winston, if I understand your reply correctly, does the clock comes out from the front of the dashboard?
Hi Rodney,
I am not Winston but, yes, you are correct. After you rotate, you pull it straight toward you. Have fun disconnecting the light bulb and power connector. You will have even more fun reconnecting them. That is where GM could have splurged with a couple more inches of wire.
Bill
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2 hours ago, Chasander said:
Chuck,
Where does the end of the wire that is not attached to the firewall go? Thanks.
Bill
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3 minutes ago, Chasander said:
On my what I believe to be original 63 a ground wire goes from rear horn bolt to fire wall.
Chuck,
Thanks for that. That is what is shown in the Service Manual. Does that ground wire connect to each of the horns as well?
Bill
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29 minutes ago, telriv said:
Jim Cannon knows the correct wiring as I gave him the info directly from my car yrs. ago.
Tom T.
I will check with Jim to be sure. I am thinking that a grounding wire is correct. When you mount the horns to the hood it is paint on paint and the attaching holes on the brackets are larger than the self-tapping screws, so the chance of contact is slim. I hooked the wire up to the horns. No sound from the added horns at all when the horn bar pressed. Would get noise from the original horns once in awhile. With the wiring harness off and back to original the stock horns work perfectly every time. I have attached copies of what is shown in the 1963 Service Manual. It shows a grounding wire to each horn.
Bill
Choke Tube Insulation-Updated
in Buick Riviera
Posted
Hi,
Just an update to the choke tube insulation topic. A while back I got in touch with Glenn Cecchine at CARS, Inc. to let him know that I had been very disappointed with the choke tube insulation that I had purchased from them. The reasons being the unraveling issue and the product they sent did not resemble the OEM insulation nor what was pictured in their online catalog. He stepped up to the plate and is going to refund my money in full. I also alerted him to the fact that the various Corvette vendors were marketing OEM style choke tube insulation. I just got an e-mail from him this morning stating that they have been in contact with the manufacturer and hope to incorporate this product into their offerings.
I have attached a picture of the product you can get from the various Corvette vendors.
Bill