Riviera63
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Posts posted by Riviera63
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Hi,
I sent my 63 Riviera clock out to be converted to a quartz mechanism this last winter. I was very pleased with the results and the company that did the conversion and wanted to pass along their info in case anyone else is thinking about doing this. I have had the clock in about a month and it is working perfectly. They not only replace the inner mechanism with a quartz mechanism but, also refurbish the rest of the clock as well. They clean and polish the lens, repaint the hands, clean and polish the chrome bezel and they even cleaned and repainted the rear outer casing. It looked like new. They will also return your old inner mechanism to you if you ask them to. The company is:
Instrument Services, Inc.
4075 Steele Drive
Machesney Park IL 61115
1-800-558-2674
website: www.ClocksAndGauges.com
The cost is $120.00 plus the cost of return shipping. I have no idea if this price is good, bad or indifferent compared to others that do this. It was a very painless process. ( except for unplugging and replugging the clock and light in. I wish GM had splurged a little and used a couple of more inches of wire on the light and power leads. ) All I had to do is send my clock to them with my contact information. When the clock was ready they contacted me, got my payment information and sent my clock back to me. My turnaround time was only a couple of weeks. If anyone has any questions I would be happy to answer them.
Bill
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6 minutes ago, telriv said:
It's hard to remember EXACTLY Bill, but I believe it was short on the bottom by 6"-8". You must remember that it was to stop people from getting burned by the hot air choke tube when you were working on the engine.The last 6" or so someone was not as likely to come in contact with the pipe.
Tom T.
Tom,
Thanks for that. That makes sense and that is what i needed to know.
Bill
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I did find what I needed on Eckler's Corvette website. Thanks Tom. Choke tube insulation part number 25-114228-1. $11.99 for an 18" length. Did the original insulation cover the whole tube or was it a partial covering? I would need about 24" to cover tube completely. If it was not complete coverage this would work great. After seeing it on their website I do recall that this is what my original looked like. The CARS version is not even close to the same. Oh well, not the first money wasted on buying an incorrect item. Glad to have found the right stuff.
Bill
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2 hours ago, telriv said:
Many Corvette restoration places have the CORRECT choke tube insulation.
Any idea of the terminology that they use or what you looked under to find? I looked on several sites using different words, sets of words and came up empty. Thanks.
Bill
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11 hours ago, Rivdrivn said:
I've decided, not without some trepidation, that I'm going to drive to BCA in Milwaukee in July and subject myself to their 400 point judging for the first time. Sure I have a modified '65 but most of it is hidden and some can be reversed. I can put the proper air cleaner back on once I reroute the fuel line. But what about a correct looking battery topper and period hose clamps. What's the best source for these obsolete gems? By the way, I'm not changing the radial tires.
I too have been going back and forth about entering the 400 point judging or entering one of the other categories. I know I will get dinged for certain things such as radial tires, dual brake master, hose clamps, etc. and am not going to change them for safety or practicality reasons. I drive my car as much as I can and don't want to sacrifice in those areas. Otherwise, I do strive as much as possible to keep my car stock, original and correct. I'm sure there are many out there like me. I'm sure I am not the first one to ask this question? Can't there be a category created for these in between cars? In my opinion, in an age where the car hobby is sometimes struggling for participation this might be a way to get more people to and participating in these club events? I probably will enter the 400 point judging as I this may be one of the only times where I can go to and participate in a BCA meet as it is so close to home. I like to go too one major event a year and the ROA Convention is usually my first choice but, I can't pass this up.
Bill
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1 hour ago, JZRIV said:
LOL - yea I ended up spot painting my original to try and brighten it a bit but if you have none - CARS stuff is wonderful! Besides looks, it is functional.
Jason,
Thanks for the fiberglass cloth tip. I think that would do it. What did the original look like? Mine was pretty much toast and I really did not pay attention to what it looked like when I removed it. Does the CARS insulation look the same? The black replacement that I put on was great stuff, did not unravel at the ends, it was just the wrong color. I may explore painting it as well. What type/color paint did you use? Thanks.
Bill
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44 minutes ago, NCCaprice said:
Maybe you could try an old trick we had in the army, depending on the type of material the insulation is made from. You can hold the frayed ends of the insulation tube "close" to an open flame, (lighter or candle), without actually touching the flame. If the material is synthetic, the frayed ends will start to melt upon itself. You can remove the material from near the flame once you have the right amount of fray bonding and blow to cool. Don't touch the melted end with your finger! You may want to insert something non-flammable in the tube end to keep it from melting together and closing itself off.
Be sure not to actually touch the flame with the material, otherwise, you could catch the fabric on fire.
I recommend doing this away from all flammable objects and surfaces (in the middle of a concrete floor may be appropriate).
That is the first thing I thought of and tried. It is heat resistant material and does not take to flame like a nylon rope would for example. Thanks for the effort and welcome to the forum. Good luck finding a Riv. I am a relatively new Riv person after being a die-hard Pontiac guy for many years. i love my 1963 Riviera.
Bill
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The first summer I had my car on 2014 I replaced the choke stove pipe. The pipe insulation was bad so I replaced it as well. The only color available to me at that time was black. This year I decided to replace it with a more original type white insulation from CARS. It is cut to whatever length you want from a bulk roll. The problem I ran into is both ends unravel quite easily and there does not seem to be any way to stop it. What I ended up doing is wrapping wire around each end to keep it in place and unraveling. I'm not too crazy about that solution. Has anyone run into this problem and if so what did you do to secure the ends to keep them from unraveling? What was done on the original insulation? Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Bill
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1 hour ago, Crazy4cruz said:
I can't comment on how far back the steel wheels go but there is a guy here in the Sacramento, CA area that may have the 63 and 64 steel wheels if your friends are wanting to buy some. His name is Tim Sweeley and he runs a business called Rivi Central. You can find his contact info at http://www.rivicentral.com/ or on FB at https://www.facebook.com/Rivi-Central-185684528117758/.
Tim is a great guy to do business with. I have purchased many items from him over the years. I just bought 5 steel wheels for my 65 from him earlier this year for under $200 for all 5.
Sorry Ed, I don't mean to high jack your thread but, I feel this is important.
I would just like to say to people to use caution when buying steel wheels. I learned the hard way when I first got my car. I wanted 5-15X6 steel wheels as my car had rusty, later model Buick sport wheels. I contacted a Riviera vendor that I thought reputable to purchase two 6 inch steel wheels. He sent me two 5 1/2 inch wheels. I contacted him and told him what he had done. So I purchased 2 more wheels as I figured the return postage across the country wasn't worth it. I would sell them later. The next 2 arrived and they were 5 1/2 inch wheels as well! I contacted him again and he stated that he didn't realize that there were 2 different widths and he didn't want to remove and dismount tires from cars unless he knew it was the correct wheel. I made some measurements on both width rims and figured out a way to tell if the rim was 5 1/2 or 6 inch with the tire on. This time he sent me 2 wheels free of charge that were actually 6 inch wheels. Of the 6 wheels I received I was only able to use 1 of the 6 inch wheels. The other 5 were so bent/out of true that they were not usable for anything other than scrap. Also, some of them were so pitted with rust that even if they had been true you would not have wanted to use them. After all was said and done this particular vendor did not feel he owed me any money back or even an I'm sorry. Needless to say, this person does not get my business anymore unless he is the absolute last resort. I ended up sourcing 12 wheels total from various places to get 5 that I could use. To get my last 2 I ended up having to buy a set of 4 as the person would not break up the set and sold the other 2.
To bring a long-winded post to a close. Do not make the mistake I made of trusting that people are selling you a good usable wheel. Make sure you see pictures of the wheels you are buying and make sure that they have checked to see that they are true.
Bill
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Hi Scott,
That issue is May 1985. I have attached a picture of the cover and the issue info. Here is a link where you can find it. http://backissues.com/titles/Collectible-Automobile-Magazine
Bill
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Bezel has sold.
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9 hours ago, 1965rivgs said:
There was a pamphlet/foldout/order form which was given to new Riviera owners. They could send away for the plaque inscribed as they desired. This pamphlet was also available to used car buyers so the name on any given plaque does not necessarily have to be the original owner`s name. I suppose it is possible any dealer could have submitted the plaque order as a personalized service to new car customers and installed it before delivery but I suspect the majority of plaques were mail ordered by the owner after taking delivery of the new car at the dealership. I do not believe any plaques were installed by the factory.
Tom
Here are pictures of that order form that was given to new Riviera owners.
Bill
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I have for sale a rechromed antenna base bezel for the 1963-1965 Riviera. This was purchased from one of the reputable ROA vendors. I originally purchased this with every intention of using this on my car as I did not think I would be able to get my antenna bezel off, rechromed and back in time to be practical. Early spring and a favor from my rechromer allowed me to be able to use my own. I am selling this for the same price I paid to the vendor. $100.00 plus S & H. Please PM me if interested. Thanks.
Bill
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Hi,
I just purchased an NOS purse hook from Gene at A B & G. I have scanned and attached the installation directions for any of you that have a purse hook that did not have the installation information with it.
Bill
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I have silver material to cover 2 sun visors and 2 sail panels. It is currently for sale on e-bay for $39.00 plus S & H. I will offer it to forum members for $30.00 plus S & H. Below is my description as it is listed on e-bay. Please PM me with any questions or if you are interested. Thanks. Bill
For sale is silver vinyl material for recovering the sun visors and rear sail panels on the 1963-1965 Buick Riviera. This material may be correct for other GM models as well. Please make sure this fits your application. This vinyl material is new from Clark's Corvair which is a leading supplier for Buick Riviera upholstery and other Buick Riviera replacement parts known for their high quality. This material comes in the correct original grain pattern and silver color used for these years. You will receive enough material to recover 2 sun visors and 2 sail panels. This includes 2-12" X 24" pieces for the sun visors, 2-16" X 36" pieces for the sail panels and 2-2" X 36" pieces for edge trim. With the quality vinyl dyes available now, these could be dyed to match your color interior or color headliner if not silver.
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Switch found.
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I know someone that can rebuild these as long as the bakelite portion is not broken or cracked. If anyone has a non-working switch that they would like to sell I am open to that. Thanks.
Bill
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Hi,
I am thinking of putting cornering lights in my 63 Riv. I need the 9 pin turn signal switch as mine is only the 6 pin. I have put out feelers to the ROA vendors with not a lot of luck. I am wondering if any of you might have one you would be willing to sell or know of anyone who might have one to sell. Please PM me if you do. Thanks.
Bill
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Horn set found.
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1 hour ago, RivNut said:
Contact GM Obsolete and ask them if they're wholesaling there lenses to OPGI and CARS. Tell them about the fitment issues that are being discussed here. Who know what may come of it.
I just threw that out there in the offhand chance that someone knew the answer and I would call if no one could supply an answer. I did call GM Obsolete and they said they manufacture their own and that they are the supplier for OPGI and that is it. The gentleman I talked to was a little bristly with me and my questions, so I decided not bring up the fitment issue. I then called CARS and asked them who made their lenses and they said they made their own. He also stated that they were on 6 week back order. OPGI currently shows 6 in stock and GM Obsolete shows 2 in stock. So the statements about who manufactures for whom appear to be true. I did bring the fitment issue up to CARS and the gentleman in true company fashion did not confirm or deny that they have ever had a fitment issue and stated that: " you will be very satisfied with the fitment of your lenses in 6 weeks". I wasn't exactly sure from the previous conversations if it was OPGI or CARS lenses that had the fitment issue. I took it to be OPGI. Perhaps DualQuadDave could clarify. Current prices: OPGI $203.70 each, GM Obsolete $169.95 each in their online catalog, $179.95 each on e-bay, CARS $139.50 each. That's all I have.
Bill
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Hi,
I am in the same situation as Jan was. I am need of an upgrade for my cracked turn signal lenses. I have feelers out to many of the vendors that advertise in the Riview. I have had no luck as far as finding acceptable used ones. A couple of the vendors pointed me in the direction of the reproductions by GM Obsolete. I am hesitant to order reproductions for the reason stated above about the CARS or OPGI lenses. Does anyone know if the lenses offered by all 3 come from the same vendor or if one of the 3 is the supplier for the other 2? GM Obsolete makes it sound as if they make there own. Any info on this appreciated. Thanks.
Bill
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2 hours ago, riviadrian said:
I am trying to install the bottom portion of the rear seats in my 63. They were recently re-foamed and covered so it is tough to get the seat backs lifted up far enough to allow the bottoms enough room to lock into place. If I lift the front of the seat bottoms too much, the bracket that holds the seat frame catches the seat cover.
Does anyone have suggestions?? My neck and knees are ready for this part of the job to be finished.
Thanks,
-Adrian-
Adrian,
To me it sounds as if possibly your seats were overstuffed to some degree which will make reinstallation more difficult. Are the seat backs installed correctly? Hung correctly on the hooks and the screws at the bottom in place? If the back of the seat is riding too low that will hinder the installation of the seat bottom. You should not have to lift the front of the seat bottom that high to get the back portion of the seat to slide under the bottom of the seat back. You just need to clear the hooks/stops on the floor. The front of the seat is flexible to some degree to get it back far enough to back and over the front floor hooks/stops. I have only had my back seat out once and I do remember it took a few tries to get it to fit properly. The seat bottom fits like other GM models that I have had and they were the same way. If your seats are a little too overstuffed you may need an extra pair of hands to squish and manipulate seat foam while you try to install. I hope this helps. Good luck.
Bill
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1 hour ago, telriv said:
Just to add a caution to this installation. When drilling for the holes use a STOP/TAPE or something so the drill bit doesn't go to far & damage the outside of the hood surface.
Tom T.
Tom,
Thanks for that. I will add it to the list. It would be easy to do with possibly disastrous results.
Bill
1963 4 Note Horn Installation Question
in Buick Riviera
Posted
Hi All,
I have started the installation of my 4 note horn set. I have both of the horns mounted to the hood and the hood appears to shut with no interference or problems. I have a question about the wiring. The wiring I received with the set appears to be correct but, incomplete. From what I can gather there should be a black ground wire that that attaches to a tab at the base of large horn, goes to the screw that holds the L-shaped bracket for the smaller horn to the hood and then is attached to the firewall with a screw. Can anyone confirm for me if this is correct and if it is not, what is the correct grounding route and/or procedure? Thanks.
Bill