Riviera63
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Posts posted by Riviera63
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I had the same problem. I have attached pictures of what I did. I used clips (which I know have a specific name but, I don't know what it is) which come in various sizes and are used all over this vintage car to attach various items. These were 3/4" long. The ones I used were actually from an NOS back-up light kit that I had installed on my 1963 Pontiac LeMans convertible. I'm sure they are not "correct" but, do the job. I have some left if you need them. I used phillips stainless screws that matched the rear screws and I was good to go. I do not remember what size diameter they are as far as being an 8,10, 12 etc. The bumpers are just common bumpers you can get from Steele Rubber, Rubber the Right Way, CARS, Inc etc.These places may even carry the fasteners as well. I hope this helps.
Bill
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10 hours ago, telriv said:
Thank you Bill.
Tom T.
Tom,
You have a PM.
Bill
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What I will do to ship is pull the staples from the hinge boxes so that I can ship the pieces flat. I will sandwich between 2 pieces of cardboard. I cant imagine that it will be horrible. Will try to get to that tomorrow and let you know.
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I believe Ed is correct in saying you have some 5 1/2 inch rims and some 6 inch rims. When I got my car I was trying to buy 6 inch steel wheels for it. I had a guy who had some wheels on cars in his junk yard but, did not want to have to go out into the yard, remove a wheel, take off the tire just to check what width it was and have it be the wrong width. I had one of each and the outside diameter was different by 1/4". He used that to determine if the wheel was 5 1/2" or 6 inch before removing it from the car. That worked for him so that he could select the size I was wanting.
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Tom has generously offered to not take the cardboard in case there is someone out there who could benefit more from it than he could. If you are working on a car and you have a limited budget/resources and you could benefit from getting this, it's yours. Please reply before tomorrow morning. If no one speaks for it by then I will shift it back to Tom. Nice gesture Tom!
Bill
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1 hour ago, 1965rivgs said:
Lol...have more than one Riv, as you already may be aware of, including one which had the cardboards replaced with black before my purchase. Whatever works for you is A OK with me,
Tom
Tom,
I assumed you had more than one, hence the use of the word fleet. However, the term "more than one" is not quite specific enough for the purposes of assessing the correct fees. Besides the verbal tally of the correct number of vehicles you will also need to have the Fleet Disclosure Form completed and verified by a member of the NFTC (National Fleet Tally Consortium). I can e-mail you the form which needs to be completed (complete sections A-E) and back to me by August 18, 2016. Upon receipt of the correctly completed form I will review and get back to you with your fee assessment no later then August 25, 2016. Failure to correctly disclose fleet information can possibly result in fines and/or possible legal prosecution. Thanks.
Bill
P.S. Get back to me when you can about what we had discussed. Good luck next week.
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On 8/3/2016 at 3:40 PM, 1965rivgs said:
I`ll take `em Bill. I can always use nice original cardboard for the fleet. We will discuss when I research the info we spoke about this morning. Thanks!
To
Tom,
Did you say "fleet"? That changes things. Free was for individual personal use vehicles only. Fleet usage is a different application and therefore may be subject to handling fees, excise taxes, and depending on the size of the fleet may also be subject to an environmental hazard assessment fee and reintegration tariff. Let me know the size of the fleet so that I can calculate what fees are applicable and how much you would owe. Thanks.
Bill
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I did this last summer and followed Jim Cannon's procedure in a previous post which I have copied below. Simple, straightforward, looks clean and original. I kept and used my stock booster and have had no problems.
Here is what I recommend: (Jim's words)
Keep the factory distribution block on the frame. Remove the line going to the rear axle and plug it. Connect the port on the block that goes to the stock MC up to the FRONT port of the dual MC. You need to fabricate a line to do this, with double-flared ends at both ends. Put some slack in the line by making a Z-shaped portion or a coil The tube nut size on the front MC port is different from stock MC, but is easily obtained. That takes care of the front wheels.
For the rear axle, you want to fabricate a new line that goes from the REAR port of the dual MC down to the frame in the vicinity of the distribution block. Include a coil or a Z for slack. Use a T-fitting style union made for brake light switch to connect the end of your new rear line to the existing rear line that come off of the original distribution block. The 2 union-type ends will be tube fittings. You connect the line to the rear axle to one of them and the line up to the dual MC to the other. It is equivalent to a straight-through union. The T-part of the fitting is 1/8" NPT, not flared tubing. The stock brake light switch screws right into it. The wires on the stock wiring harness are long enough to reach down to the frame by the distribution block. You do not need to splice any electric or cut anything.
To keep the lines from vibrating against each other, I tied the lines to each other with a couple of small zip ties.
I got the 3/16" tubing, the master fittings STN-7 and STN-5, the T-fitting BS-01 and everything from Inline Tube. I might have gotten the plug from them, I don't remember. Call them.
You do not need a proportioning valve for the drum-drum system. Crude proportioning is already included in the wheel cylinder cup/piston diameter difference between front and rear. Connecting lines as I describe will maintain the factory proportioning, for better or for worse. (I used to design brake systems.)
The brake light switch is hard to bleed air out of. Fill it with fluid before screwing into the T-fitting. Try to keep it contacts down until you bleed the system, then invert it.
Regarding which dual MC to use:
You need to remove your stock MC from the car and look at the end of the piston that the booster pin presses against. It will be either a (roughly) 1" deep hole or a 1/4" deep dimple. The new dual MC that you install needs to have that same depth "hole". It will be either one or the other. Trying to put the wrong one in will not work.
If you are keeping your STOCK booster, you need to put an o-ring on the neck of the new MC where it inserts into the booster, or else you will have no boost (due to vacuum leak at the neck). Either move the original o-ring over to the booster or get a new o-ring. The only guy I know that sells this special o-ring is Booster Dewey out in Oregon. You might try NAPA or other places and find it. If you were to "cut" the o-ring and look at the cut surface, it would not be a circle. It would be a small square. So it is not really a conventional o-ring. It is specific to this application.
HTH.
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Hi,
I replaced the trunk cardboard in my 63 earlier this spring as I added a remote trunk release. My old cardboard is still usable. Obviously, not show quality but, I think still presentable for a daily driver. It could be painted or covered with vinyl. Free to anyone that wants it, just pay the price of shipping I would be happy to package it up. PM me if interested. Thanks.
Bill
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I ran across this while researching spark plugs. It was very helpful to me to make sense of the numbering system for the AC spark plugs and I thought it might be helpful to others. I do have one question about the AC spark plugs for my 63 401. Are there any other designations in the R44 series of plugs that will work adequately besides the R44S in the 401? For example, the R44SX is designated wide gap for H.E.I. Can one just simply regap these plugs to the correct gap and use them or is there something else fundamentally different that will make these unusable? Any input is appreciated. Thanks.
Bill
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Hi Bob,
Those are the wires I do have now and they are actually blue with the boots and hoods on the other end being black. It is tough to tell from the picture. I realize that I can find any number of sets by doing searches on various websites and purchase a set of wires. It seems to be that buying anything quality nowadays can be a crap shoot. With certain things I like to get a recommendation from people that have actually used the product. I realize that getting black wires is being picky and not a life or death situation. I like to get my car as stock looking as possible when I can. I appreciate you trying to help out. Thanks.
Bill
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11 minutes ago, telriv said:
I ALMOST always use the Taylor Spiro Pro universal wires I make up myself. I use 90* boots on both ends for a cleaner.neater appearance by running them behind the head & up to the dist. Gets rid of the wires over the valve covers & gets rid of the bracketry.
Tom,
Thanks for the tip. I don't know if I am ready to make that leap yet. I'm sure they must be a quality set and will write that product down for future reference.
I did return the wires to Lectric Limited. As Bob mentioned they were nice to deal with and the return was no problem. Hopefully, I will not get charged the restocking fee.
My wires as I previously mentioned are good ones. However, they are dark blue. They are not the electric blue like you see on some sets but, blue nonetheless. Can anyone give me the name of a quality wire set that is black and where to get them? I would at least like to make that transition. Thanks.
Bill
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Bob,
Thanks, for the input. I had planned on calling them. I know there must be many satisfied customers out there or they would not be in business. I had a couple of 63 Pontiacs that I put date coded wires on with no problem. I did not know at the time who made those but, from what you say it must have been Lectric Limited. I just wanted to get input from other people as to their experiences good or bad before I do call. Thanks.
Bill
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19 minutes ago, RivNut said:
It's not that I don't like the original antennas but they play heck on car covers.
I'm sure that I'm not the only one who might be interested in what mods are necessary to mount this antenna. I think it looks good; especially since you used the OE bezel.
Ed
Dale,
I second that. Thanks.
Bill
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Hi,
Buying this set of wires has taught me many new things. I never knew about the ohm/resistance concept but, when presented with it makes perfect sense. These are new things fr me so if I sound a little dense forgive me. I tested all of the new wires that I received. They all passed the ohm/resistance test at the very outer edges of the guidelines Tom set except one. This was a 30" wire that tested 20,000 ohms. I tested 5 of my old wires which I had picked up at a NAPA in Denver, CO when attending the 2014 ROA convention in Colorado Springs. If I remember correctly I asked for the best they had. The resistance shown by these wires was at least half (or more) less than the new wires. I did install the new wires just to see how they performed. The car seemed to run OK in the garage except when I would rev the engine up I would sometimes get a backfire. I figured this was the bad wire and put the old wire back and that went away. I guess what I can take away from this is that with spark plug wires the less resistance the better. I should put my old wires back on and be happy because they are good ones. I'd like to hear some more comments/advice before I call Lectric Limited back and say I would like a refund with high resistance/lack of performance being the reason. Why put on inferior wires? For the amount of money they charge you would think you could get a superior product. Thanks.
Bill
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This is not filling me with confidence about my purchase. Anyone else have experiences with these wires good or bad? Is there anyone else that makes an OEM style of wires? Thanks.
Bill
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8 hours ago, telriv said:
Test the ohm resistance of ALL the wires before installation. 500 ohms per foot. Many have come through bad. Not daming them just check BEFORE installation to avoid future problems or headaches.
Thanks for the tip. I will definitely check those before installing.
Bill
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Hi,
I just purchased a set of date-coded plug wires for my 1963 Riviera. I did not realize until I saw it on this forum that the OEM style plug wires were a different style than the plug wires one normally sees for other cars. I am very satisfied with these wires and how they look. I am also happy to be able to add one more item to my car that will give it an even more original look. I do have a question about these wires though. With the wires they send along dielectric grease to apply to the ceramic portion of the spark plug and the inner rubber surface of the boot. They indicate that this will keep the ignition coil's spark from arching through, or around, the spark plug wire boot, help maintain a dry environment at the terminal connection, and keep the boots from bonding to the spark plug insulator thereby making installation and reinstallation of the plug wires easier. Is there anyone out there that does do this? It seems to make sense. Is this a legitimate concern and therefore worth doing or something one really need not worry about. Any thoughts or tips appreciated. Thanks.
Bill
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I just walked in to my local NAPA and they had the right battery in stock. I have noticed sites will say an item is not correct for a 1963 Riviera when I know it is correct. One example that I can think of is oil filters. I am thinking some of these sites don't have items referenced back as far as 1963.
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The idiot lights, bezel and lens are spoken for. The speedometer, lens and bezel are still available individually or as a whole. Thanks.
Bill
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The lower dash trim, ignition switch, ignition switch bezel and ignition switch light are gone. Thanks.
Bill
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The bare instrument panel has been taken. Thanks.
Bill
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Here are some more parts from my dash purchase. Please PM me with any questions. Thanks.
Bill
Tag bracket
in Buick Riviera
Posted
I believe the bumpers on my car are original. I forgot to mention they measure approximately 1/2" across and 1/4" deep. Once you have the plate on no one will know if everything is absolutely "correct" anyway.