Riviera63
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Posts posted by Riviera63
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Hope this helps.
Bill
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4 hours ago, 64RivieraLife said:
The black insert that the charging port and ashtray lighter sit in thats already part of the car? And you just cutstom made the holes or that was something you bought to replace orinigal
That is the original piece that came with the car. Go back to the beginning of the thread where I explain how I did it.
Biil
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3 hours ago, 64RivieraLife said:
Nice setup, do you know where i can get those parts ?
I got mine on Amazon. They are also listed on e-bay. I am sure you can pick up a USB port at any number of places.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6S2SNM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Bill
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15 minutes ago, tkeiser1 said:
I can confirm what Tom said. I wrapped much of the line in rubber but the noise did not disappear. I dropped the gas tank somewhat and the noise lessened. However, I'm concerned about loosening the tank too much rather than dropping it and inserting spacers, which I'm not eager to tackle. Any suggestions?
Here is a thread where this problem is discussed pretty thoroughly. Lots of suggestions to help with the problem.
Bill
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New Year's Sale $30.00
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New Year's Sale $30.00
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Quote
New Year's Sale $45.00
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I am one of those funny people that likes to keep things in his car as they were. If I am installing something or replacing something I would like to put it in place as it is supposed to be. I am looking for constructive advice on how this piece should be installed on the seat. I would appreciate any 64 owner (or 65 if they were the same) to take a look and let me know. Thanks.
Bill
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8 hours ago, RivNut said:
Question. Can you remember the last time you had an adult sized passenger in the back seat of your first generation Riviera?
Answer: Yes
One may also need to move the seat back forward for a non-adult size person to sit in the back seat. One also needs to move the seat back for a number of reasons not related to a person sitting back there.
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On the right side of the passenger seat there is a lanyard that connects from the seat bottom to the seat top. On my 1963 the plastic that covers the wire is cracked and falling off. I got a replacement from a 64 Riv and it is somewhat different than mine. The 64 lanyard has a coiled wire on one end. Could anyone tell me which seat half it connects to and how to orient the wire when you put it on the seat? Thanks.
Bill
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2 hours ago, JJ62 said:
Bill,
Looks great. Did you glue the vinyl on? Did you ever get an answer from your original post as to what those other 2 pieces are?
Jim
Thanks Jim. I used DAP Weldwood Contact Cement to attach the vinyl. Yes, I have since gotten the answers to my questions.
Bill
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I also want to post this here for those that are finding it tough to find the driver's seat left side inner and outer trim pieces either unbroken or at all. It is somewhat related to what I did here to the right side trim piece. I had purchased the inner and outer left trim pieces from Gene of abandg. Gene had these pieces reproduced in metal. (FYI the outer piece will work for 63-64, but not 65, the 65 outer piece is different in shape and uses a different rear bracket, will work if you swap rear brackets) I don't know if he has any left or not but, worth giving him a call. I wanted a more original look than just painted metal. I was able to cover both pieces with the same black vinyl I used on the above piece. I am very happy with the results as I get the original look plus the durability of the metal construction.
Bill
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I got the outer right side trim piece finished today. I covered the piece with black vinyl which should give it some additional strength. I also sprayed the inner, rear piece (which is the piece I repaired to begin this thread) and the 2 pieces that fit on the rear of the passenger seat tracks. I used Eastwood Underhood Matte Black spray paint and was happy with the match to the vinyl.
Bill
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On 3/4/2020 at 7:59 AM, abandg said:
I have a couple of these seat pieces left. They are made of metal and are really nice. Paint it any color you want and your good to go. A few people asked about these. The cost is 80 dollars plus shipping. Gene
A follow up on this thread. I followed Kegart's lead and purchased both of the left driver's side metal trim pieces from Gene of abandg. I wanted a more original look than just the painted metal. I was able to cover both pieces with black vinyl. I am very happy with the results as I get the original look plus the durability of the metal construction.
Bill
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Fixed the chunk missing on the top edge using super glue & paper, filling with epoxy and sanding as well. I did not think it would bother but, when test fitting the vinyl it was apparent it was there.
Bill
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1 hour ago, EmTee said:
LOVE those Rocky & Bullwinkle posters!
They are a couple of my favorites. I found them at an antique store. Of course this dates me but, Rocky and Bullwinkle was at the top of the cartoon hierarchy for me as a kid growing up.
Bill
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Next step completed. I cemented pieces of aluminum roof flashing to the back side of the trim piece. I did this to give the piece added strength to prevent breakage in the future. The roof flashing works well because it cuts easily and will contour to the curves of the piece.
Bill
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I am adding a second installment to my previous post about plastic repair using super glue and paper. One of my winter projects is to get the various power driver's seat lower trim pieces ready to be installed on my seat. In the first post I repaired the piece that mounts on the rear of the right side seat track. My pieces need to be black, so this one will probably just be painted.
The next piece I decided to tackle was the trim piece that will mount on the brackets on the right side of the seat. This piece will cover the piece that fits on the rear of the track when the seat is down. When the seat is tilted up this piece moves with the seat and reveals that rear piece. These pieces were plastic so the survival rate of a piece is low. It was especially true for this piece on the right side. The piece I found for my car was no exception. It was broken into 2 pieces with a chunk missing.
My first step was to get the 2 pieces together again as one. I used a piece of duct tape to join the 2 pieces together as close as I could to the way they were before the break. I then used the same method as outlined above to repair the break. A layer of super glue, a piece of paper, a layer of super glue and a final layer of paper. I also layered paper and super glue to bridge and cover the area from the back side where the chunk was missing. When the repair was fairly well set I removed the duct tape to make sure it did not get glued to the front side.
The drying time for the repair is very short. When this dries it is as strong as iron. Once it was dry, I moved on to step two. Step two was to mix up a batch of 2 part epoxy and fill in the area from the front where the piece was missing. I also applied epoxy along the crack line of the two pieces. When I joined the pieces together they did not align exactly flush, so there was an uneven ridge along the crack line. I let the epoxy dry over night.
Once the epoxy was dry I sanded the epoxy down so that it was smooth and flush. The epoxy sands very nicely. I used my dremel tool to sand down close to where I wanted it and finished up with varying grits of sandpaper to get it smooth. I plan to cover this piece with black vinyl so I need a smooth surface.
I am waiting for some materials to arrive before I can move on. I will update as I progress.
Bill
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On 12/18/2020 at 6:52 PM, J3Studio said:
That looks great! Also, I love the "casual" background.
Thanks for the compliment. That "casual" background is part of the wallpaper of my shop. It is my favorite place to hang out. I go there for inner peace and solitude.
Bill
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3 minutes ago, telriv said:
Buetiful work Bill!!!!!
Thanks Tom. Coming from you that means a lot.
Bill
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In response to Jim's question up above I decided to coat with the Rustoleum Stainless Steel Epoxy Spray Paint. There were some areas that were discolored from rust or whatever and there had been a welding repair on the right front leg of the track. I wanted a more uniform appearance so I went with the paint. I rewrapped the wiring harness and cleaned and lubed the transmission. I also pulled out the armature to clean and sand the commutator bars smooth and lubed the shaft bushings. I got it all back together this afternoon. Everything runs smoothly and works the way it should. It was a fun project but, also a good one to get done. Now on to the next project!
Bill
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spark plug question
in Buick Riviera
Posted
https://forums.aaca.org/search/?q=spark plug&quick=1&type=forums_topic&nodes=73
173 results for spark plug. You should be able to find the thread Ed was talking about. It has been discussed thoroughly.