Riviera63
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Posts posted by Riviera63
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13 minutes ago, moran75 said:
Hi all
Re trim at bottom of electric bucket seat - I’ve attached an illustration re piece I’m referring to..
It looks like the only way to remove it is after the seat has been removed and physically turned upside down? Can anyone confirm or is there a way to get them it off a tad more easily.:.
all the best
kev
You might be able to pop the plastic push pins out without taking out the seat. I think it would be very tough. I just added all of the trim pieces to the left and right side of my driver's seat this winter. After doing that I would suggest just taking out the seat. It might seem like more work to take the seat out but, in the end it will be much easier than being a contortionist. With the power seat, getting the bolts out is really very easy because you can tilt the seat up to get at the bolts. Those trim pieces are plastic and break easily. To get the 2 pieces in or out on the right side of the seat would be extremely difficult, if not impossible with the seat in.
Bill
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2 hours ago, 64Rivvy said:
Thanks Pat. Will check that out. That huge gap where it's sagging is def bothering me but Ive wasted enough time on this and had to move forward. Any ideas on where I could find one of those?
Vendors that advertise in the Riview. That's where I got mine. Just one of the many reasons that is such a great publication and organization.
Bill
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18 minutes ago, Jim Cannon said:
I have my instrument panel and dash apart to replace the heater core and replace a few other parts. While it's all in pieces, I thought I would put some LED lights into the instrument panels and indicator lights.
I started with the menus on the Super Bright LEDs website, the comprehensive bulb list in Section 10 of the Shop Manual, plus the list of bulbs from the Nov. 2017 Australian Region Riview.
I'd like feedback, and maybe photos, from people who have used the Super Bright LED bulbs. Did you use Warm White (3000K), as suggested in the Aus. Riview? Or other color temperature (Natural 4000K or Cool White 6500K)?
Is it worth putting LEDs into the indicator lights (turn signals, hot/cold lights, oil press., high-beam, park brake light)? Or just keep them incandescent?
What about the lights in the heater-A/C control?
For the speedometer, which I think we all agree is too dim with the stock bulbs, has anyone tried the LED bulb 194-WWCOB1W?
It looks more like the original bulb than the one suggested by the Aus. Riview article:
The "COB" style bulb also says it has more lumens and it looks more like the original bulb. Perhaps it was not available in 2017, so was not suggested? I don't know how well they will dim.
Is it worth putting LEDs into the console lights, sail panel lights, etc.? Perhaps by drawing less current, they will keep the door jamb switches working better longer? They don't dim, so LEDs are a good fit.
Any other thoughts?
Hi Jim,
I did the LED conversion last summer. I followed the recommendations of the Australian Region when ordering mine. I ordered the warm white which to me seems to be the same look as the incandescent bulbs but, much brighter. Here is what I did and some things I found out as I did the replacements.
1.) LED for the trunk light. No more pulling the bulb for shows.
2.) Did not replace the back-up lights with LED as the originals have more CP.
3.) I replaced all of the courtesy lights, sail panel and console with LED. I figured this would save on lens damage from heat and battery drain when I work with the doors open.
4.) Did not replace blinkers and high beam as felt those were bright enough.
5.) Used an LED green for the cold light and the LED red for the alternator light. Left the others as is.
6.) Replaced the dash lights with the LED suggested by the Australian Region.
7.) Did not replace the A/C and heater control lights. I tried but, I had trouble getting the sockets to reseat and the bulbs I had would not stay seated in the socket and would fall out into the cavity. After fishing 2 out of the that cavity I just put the old ones back in. There is still one LED bulb rolling around in that cavity.
8.) Found the suggested bulb for the shifter was too long. Replaced with an incandescent 57 which is brighter.
9.) Left ignition switch as is. LED will fit but, lighted panels will not line up to give illumination.
10.) Found the suggested LED will not fit for the ash tray. Used an incandescent 1816 which is brighter.
11.) Did not replace the glovebox bulb as the suggested LED was too large.
Hope this helps.
Bill
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I removed the old weatherstrip and chrome piece using nonmarring scrapers that I had purchased at Harbor Freight. These worked very well as they have a thin edge that you can get underneath the lip of the trim piece so that you can tap it off. I followed Winston's advice. I removed the rubber press fit liner and used black weatherstrip adhesive to reattach. I held it in place with masking tape and waited 24 hours. An easy fix. Now, I just need for the weather to warm up so that I can attach the new rubber weatherstrip. I originally had purchased the weatherstrip from CARS, Inc. I decided not to use them as they may work but, are similar but, not the same as the originals in design. I did not want to have mismatched weatherstrip on my car. I ordered a set from Steele Rubber. These are the same design as the originals.
Bill
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49 minutes ago, Seafoam65 said:
DON"T USE THE RUBBER STRIP LIKE THE FACTORY DID! Leave the rubber strip off and just put some 3M black weatherstrip cement in the bottom of the channel and slap it on the glass and let it sit 24 hours.. Easy Peasy
and you won't break the glass. All my old cars have been done this way it looks great and no muss no fuss.
Thanks Winston. My replacement has the rubber strip intact. I will remove it and go the black weatherstrip adhesive route. Is the wood block with rubber mallet for removal a good technique or is there another method you could recommend?
Bill
P.S. My tires arrived last week. I am anxious for spring to come so that I can get the car out of hibernation and get them put on. Looking forward to see how they perform.
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16 minutes ago, gungeey said:
The stainless strip on the outside of the window?
Theres screws in the fuzzies you have to removeit doesnt bang off
Or are you talking about the thin strip thats on the upholstery panel in the car?
Neither, this is the vertical chrome strip that is attached to the vertical leading edge of the rear quarter window that has a weatherstrip seal that meets the rear vertical edge of the front window. I am not talking about the exterior beltline chrome nor the interior rear quarter panel chrome that the horizontal weatherstrip fuzzies attach to.
Bill
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I am looking to replace the leading edge chrome piece on my driver's side rear quarter window. I am looking for some guidance for its removal and the reinstallation. My initial thought for removal was to use a block of wood and gently tap with a rubber mallet to pop it off. For reinstall I would use the block and mallet to gently tap the new one back into place. Is there any adhesive used to hold it on the window edge or is it held by friction? The replacement has the rubber liner that goes against the window edge intact. Is any adhesive used to hold the new weatherstrip seal in place? I was thinking of using black weatherstrip adhesive. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Bill
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On 3/5/2021 at 10:35 AM, Hans3 said:
How does one remove the ball vent, if necessary? What were your felt sources?
Any fabric or craft store should have the self adhesive felt. Very inexpensive.
Bill
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11 hours ago, jframe said:
Little update. Got a friend who is a master tech to install CORRECTLY a good pigtail I got from Steve Lorenzen. Soldered everything and heat shrinked the repairs. Eliminated the cloth covered resistance wire, and car fired right up. Still got an amp light on steady. Now that the car is running, he checked at the alternator and battery. Alternator only showing 12.26 with engine on and battery was showing same. I know O'Reilly's bench checked the alternator and got 14 or so, but we are really thinking it could be bad anyway. Turn on all the lights and load it up, and the meter drops to 12.18 or so at the battery. Remove the ground cable and it dies. I know the battery cable from horn relay to starter is toast and I have a new one to go on from lectric limited. Meter showed a big drop on that bad cable as well with engine on. Dont know if its related, but it sure aint helping. Do y'all think its worthwhile to swap that alternator just to see what happens? I know all the parts house ones are not as good as what came on it, but I was thinking it might be worth a try. Left the switch out for now til I get things going, but I'm going to tape the wires in a bundle and get them back up in the dash. At least we got rid of the taped and butt connected stuff along with the Scotch lock.
Mark,
I had the same problem 3 or 4 years ago as you are having with your battery/alternator. To make a long story short. Several components were replaced with no solution. The old components were tested, including the alternator and they tested good. It ended up to be the solution that Tom had suggested, clean, tight and bright. My problem was caused by the connections at the alternator. They looked good with a visual inspection but, were bad. My mechanic clipped off the old connectors and redid them. Problem solved and no problems since.
Bill
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9 minutes ago, XframeFX said:
This post is rubbing-in the details that I never got around to doing. Anyway, I'm past that now. No way I'm taking anything apart to get at those felts.
When struggling with my gutted interior the last 2 years, those felts were not even on my radar.
Brian S. and others are always setting the standard. No way of keeping up!😙
John,
I did mine last summer. You do not have to take anything apart to replace the felt. I used felt with an adhesive backing and I found it easiest to put the new felt in pieces rather than one continuous piece.
Bill
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2 hours ago, moran75 said:
Hi all
Re. specifically the two straight strips either side of rear wheel well - one to bumper and other to door.
I understand they are fastened by what some people refer to as ‘bath tub’ style fasteners/clips.
Ive read a ref to the mouldings SLIDING off these ‘bath tubs’ - rather than being forced off by sliding one of those trim removing tools underneath and forcing them off OUTWARDS, if you see what I mean.
Just to double check is the sliding method of removal/Installation correct ? After removing curved wheel well trim first of course.....
thanks in advance
Kev
Hi Kev,
Attached is a picture of one of those fasteners (ignore the rivet). I have seen those trim moldings taken off by sliding and I have also seen them taken off by gently prying the upper or lower lip off and then lifting the other lip off. I have seen them attached using sliding method and also seen them reattached by hooking the upper or lower lip and then applying gentle pressure, up or down, to slip the other lip in place. I personally, like the prying/pushing method better as with the sliding I am worried about catching an edge, some of which are sharp and scratching the paint. Using the other method one has to be careful not to damage the trim piece.
Bill
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Lectric Limited has both positive and negative.
https://www.lectriclimited.com/battery-cables-and-ground-straps/battery-cable-141219
https://www.lectriclimited.com/battery-cables-and-ground-straps/battery-cable-140737
Bill
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2 hours ago, awk409ak said:
I thought "originally" the first gen's at some point in time, the positive was near the fender with a rubber boot over it and the battery terminals on engine side, but then there was a change made to what is stated above. I still have the positive cable near fender with the rubber boot (64 Riv).
Art
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40 minutes ago, 64Rivvy said:
I'm looking for the front passenger side wheel arch trim piece for my 64. I have one but it's a bit too far gone to reuse. Thought i could hammer it out and polish it but it's too far gone. Thanks.
PM sent.
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As stated by Tom T. and Tom M. the grain on the 63 & 64 pieces was the Seville grain pattern and the 65 was the Madrid grain pattern.
The differences in the years I was referring to were differences in the configuration of some of the actual trim pieces and the brackets that hold them. From trying to assemble the pieces for my own car, being sold the wrong pieces for my 63, disassembling my seat, disassembling seats from the other years and information I have read on other posts in this forum I have come to the following conclusions:
1.) The trim pieces that attach to the back of the PASSENGER seat tracks are the same for all 3 years. Pictures 1 & 2.
2.) The 2 trim pieces that attach to the RIGHT side of the DRIVER'S seat are the same for all 3 years. Pictures 3 & 4
3.) The DRIVER'S seat LEFT INSIDE/LOWER trim piece and brackets are the same for all years. Pictures 5 & 6
4.) The DRIVER'S seat OUTER/UPPER trim piece is different for the 1963 than the 1964-1965 trim piece. Pictures 7 & 8
5.) The DRIVER'S seat UPPER/FRONT trim bracket is slightly different for the 1963 than the 1964-1965 bracket. Pictures 9 & 10
6.) The DRIVER'S seat UPPER/REAR trim bracket is different for the 1963 than the 1964-1965 bracket. The 1964-1965 bracket is 3 1/4" wide and the 1963 bracket is 4" wide. The 1964-1965 bracket is 1 1/2" tall and the 1963 bracket is 1 7/8" tall. The mounting tabs on the 1964-1965 bracket are angled whereas the 63 bracket mounting tabs are straight. Pictures 11 & 12
As far as the outer trim piece and brackets on the LEFT DRIVER'S side. I believe you can use the 1964-1965 trim piece and brackets on a 1963 and you can use the 1963 trim piece and brackets on a 1964-1965 as long as you have all of the same pieces for that specific year(s). You cannot mix and match the upper/outer brackets and trim piece of different year categories.
Bill
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6 hours ago, 64Rivvy said:
Bill. Do you know if these trim pieces were also supposed to be there on a 64? I recently redid my seats and carpet and installed the seats back in and remembered thinking they looked a little bare at the bottom of the seats like maybe something should be there.
Yes, the 1964 and 1965 Riviera's had these pieces as well. Some of the 1964 and 1965 pieces and brackets are different than the 1963. Be careful if you go to purchase these parts. I found this out the hard way when I started getting pieces for my car.
Bill
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8 hours ago, RivNut said:
I actually phrased it wrong. I should have said that I'll "Follow it." In the upper right hand corner of the thread, there's a link to click if you want to follow a thread. Not that much more might be posted,but it saves a grueling search, if you can even remember that something was posted you want to use as a reference.
Thanks Ed. That is pretty simple. That will save me much time in the future. I have spent much time doing those grueling searches trying to find something from the past I need to reference.
Bill
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3 minutes ago, RivNut said:
Gonna put a watch on this one so I'll know what to look for and where it goes when (if) I find everything.
Nice post. Thanks,
Ed
Thanks Ed. For you and anyone else planning to put these pieces in give me a shout before you go ahead and do this. I ran into a bit of a problem with clearance between the 2 driver's left side pieces when putting the seat in the full down position. I had a situation where I almost ruined my vinyl covering on the inside piece. If you have the original plastic pieces if might result in a broken piece or two. Luckily, I caught it and was able to fix the issue. I can let you know what might happen and how I solved the problem. Having gone through this I can give some other tips that will make the install a little easier also.
Bill
P.S. Ed, how do you put a watch on something? I have some posts I would like to keep tabs on as well. Thanks.
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Just to put a finishing touch to the degreasing and rust removal of my power seat assembly. I got the wiring rewrapped and the seat assembly mated to the driver's seat which just got back from the upholstery shop where new foam was put in. Tested again and everything still works as it should. A stretch of below zero weather here has me longing for spring and getting those seats back in the car.
Bill
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35 minutes ago, telriv said:
As is usual Bill top notch work.
Tom,
Thank you very much. Your kind words are very much appreciated.
Bill
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I removed my front seats before I put my car away for the winter so that I could have the foam padding redone. The seats are back from the upholstery shop and I have been slowly getting them back together. I just finished reattaching the power seat assembly and the lower trim pieces. I also attached the passenger seat trim pieces. I just learned about these trim pieces a little over a year ago. I am sure there are others that do not know about them or have never seen them actually in place on the seats. Attached are pictures of them in place and in the case of the driver's seat in the full up and full down position.
Bill
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These have been taken.
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I have for anyone that wants them bare driver's and passenger's front seat frames for the 63-65 Riviera. These particular frames were from a 64. They are rusty like most seat frames but, appear complete and not to have any broken springs. The seat tracks are not included. Free for pick-up in central Wisconsin or you arrange shipping. PM me if interested.
Bill
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47 minutes ago, RIVNIK said:
Dear Ed, Franklin,& Bill. Thank you all for schooling me on the proper use of a forum. You'll be happy to know I feel really stupid for asking. & now, if nobody else wants to chime in with more excellent advice, I'm gonna go eat some worms!
Not meant to make you feel stupid. I was just trying to let you know that there was a lot of info on the topic and to give you a direct path to it without trying to explain step by step how to get there.
Bill
Spring Cleaning Sale - No Reasonable Offer Refused - 1964 1st generation part-out
in Buick Riviera
Posted
Hi all,
I have purchased the remainder of RivCat's supply of Riviera parts. If you need anything shoot me a PM with your needs and I will see if I have it. As RivCat said, reasonable offer plus shipping. The transmission was not pictured and is still available. Also, RivCat still has the 3.07 posi rear end and is looking to sell it. Contact him if you are interested in that. Thanks.
Bill