Riviera63
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Posts posted by Riviera63
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14 hours ago, awk409ak said:
Ed,
Wasn't there two styles of selector lenses in 64?
Art
I sold the one from the 64 that RivCat parted out and it was clear and looked like the one on the left. That car was a later build, May 64, if that makes any difference.
Bill
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7 hours ago, BulldogDriver said:
Thanks Bill
Ray,
Here are pictures of the things I used. The first is a picture of the different retainers that were used. You will have to drill out the hole on the washer bigger to fit.
Bill
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7 hours ago, Van Hef said:
Sorry, both are long gone.
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My car was missing all of the washers and the inboard retainers. I used plastic washers found at a local big box building center upon the suggestion of a forum member. They work well and are durable. Any originals that I have found or seen were black fiberboard. These can be found on e-bay or through any number of the GM classic car parts vendors. The "E" retainers I also found at the building center.
Fortunately, that is a reflection on the stainless and not copper.
Bill
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4 hours ago, BulldogDriver said:
Ok so I am getting ready to recover the 63 seats with Clarks covers and discovered that mine were not original to the car. The pivot shafts for the bottom and back frames had a mismatched of parts and rather then describe what I found, could someone tell me the correct parts that are used on the pivot shafts? I do have new caps for the ends.
Ray
Ray,
Here are pictures of the 2 pivot shafts. The first picture is of the inboard pivot and the second is the outboard pivot. Both pivots have a plastic or fiberboard washer. The outboard pivots have the chrome cap retainer and the inboard can have one of 3 different styles of retainers. I opted for the "E" retainer as I think it is easier to get on and off.
Bill
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23 hours ago, awk409ak said:
Hi Guys,
Yesterday I was out in my 64 Riv, and stop at a auto part store and when went to leave the battery was dead. Store checked the battery it was good, but low on charge about 11 volts. We removed the battery and did a quick charge that brought up to 13+ volts. We reinstalled the battery and tested the charging system. There was no increase of voltage to the battery, which means no out put from the alternator. I drove it home with no issues.
Today I started it with no issues. Put my voltmeter on the battery with engine running 12.56 volts, loading it, it drops to 12.25, but come back to 12.55-12.57. Shouldn't I have more like 13-14 volts? Is it a diode or diodes that's bad? Am I doing something wrong here?
Also, what lights should be on when the ignition switch is turned to on position? Shouldn't I have the Amp and Oil light appear? I know the temp light show when turned to start.
Art
Art,
I had the same thing happen to me on the way to the BCA Nationals in 2017. On my way to pick-up my brother-in-law I stopped for lunch. I came out and battery completely dead. I made it to his house after a jump. We spent the rest of that VERY hot summer day swapping out the voltage regulator, the alternator and the battery. To make a long story short my problem was the connections at the alternator. They had looked good with a visual inspection but, obviously were not. The old connectors were snipped off and replaced. Problem solved and have not had a problem since. I am not going to say that is your problem but, that is a simple check and fix to do before you take more drastic and time consuming measures.
When key is on you should have the following lights: OIL, AMP and COLD (if the engine is not warmed up).
Bill
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Recently, I bought a couple of the reproduction center medallions for the 1963 wire wheel covers from my friend Bob Burnopp (aka Turbinator). As many of you know the 1963 center medallion is extremely hard to find in excellent condition. Most are chipped, have stress cracks or both. This morning I got around to replacing one of the center medallions on my car that had cracked with one of Turbinator's reproductions. I was very happy with the result. Bob, did a great job in making these and this gives those of us that need center medallions a viable alternative. Bob makes the center medallions for the turbine wheel covers as well as the wire wheel covers. If you need center medallions, Turbinator is your man.
In the pictures I took, if there is anything that looks like a flaw or blemish it is a reflection or dust. These are nice.
Bill
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1 hour ago, kegart said:
Good information. I was not aware of the difference between '63 and '65 on this trim.
Kevin
Kevin,
Scroll to the bottom of this post I did awhile back. It outlines verbally and with pictures the similarities and the differences between the brackets and trim pieces for the 3 years.
Bill
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Just as a word of caution about the trim pieces on the left side of the driver's seat. The brackets that hold the larger outer piece and the larger outer piece are different for 64-65 than they are for the 1963. Be careful when buying brackets to make sure you get the correct ones that you need. Most selling them think they are the same for all 3 years. I am not trying to ruin a sale for Gene, but the larger outer bracket he had made out of steel will not work for the 64-65 unless you use the 1963 brackets. It might be able to be used if you drill new holes but, then you have 2 extra holes in the trim piece. I have pictures and can give you measurements of the brackets for the different years and have pictures showing the differences in the outer trim piece if you need them.
Bill
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I purchased an NOS Roberk Model 800 flasher back in March. Had it installed yesterday. Mounted under the dash to the right of the steering column. There was one hex screw there already so mounting was easy and close to the 4 turn signal wires going to the turn signal switch. Looks nice and clean. Works like a charm.
Bill
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On 6/6/2021 at 8:09 PM, 71GS said:
Bill, that is beautiful. I love the white on silver.
Curious, what tires did you go with?
Thanks, Brian
Hi Brian,
I went with tires recommended by a fellow Forum member. Venezia Classic 787 225/75 R15. They ride really smooth and handle really well as I was told they would and they have the thinner whitewall that I prefer.
That being said I would recommend buying them locally or contact the seller ahead of time to check the whitewalls. 3 of the 4 tires I bought have brown staining which is caused by a defect in the whitewall and will not come out. I am just sick about this. Due to weather and having surgery I did not wash the blue protective coating off until after they were mounted. Big mistake! I am still too trusting when it comes to purchasing. I contacted the outfit I bought them from and they told me to "pound sand" as it was after the return 45 day period even though this is a manufacturing defect and refuse to talk to me any further. I also e-mailed the national headquarters of the company that distributes these tires in the USA. No response.
Bill
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58 minutes ago, RIVNIK said:
Greetings! Recently a carelessly placed buffer slid off the roof of the '65 and dented the quarter window reveal molding on it's way down. Let's say my wife left it there,OK? 'nuff said... In my imagination the molding pops right off w a plastic trim tool, but the Fisher Body Manual says it is attached by screws & removing it requires removing the quarter window assembly. If true, WAAA. I assume they mean unbolting window assembly & letting it drop down to access the screws. Is this true? & does that molding have a lip on the inside like the vent window reveal molding? because that will seriously hinder tapping out this ding. & is the quarter glass as hard to adjust as I've heard it is? Any helpful tips on that? Thanks guys. Drew
Drew,
I replaced the weatherstrip on my car 3 or 4 years ago and I know that I did not remove the window assembly to access the screws to remove that outer beltline piece. I did both sides so I believe I had the interior quarter panel armrest and upper interior quarter panel pieces removed at that time as well. I am thinking that with those pieces removed I was able to get the screws out fairly easily. That will also give you access to the window adjustments which may help with getting the window out of the way. Make sure when you put the screws back in, you get them in as far as you can as they can scratch the leading edge chrome and/or the window if not in all of the way.
Bill
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Seats back in on Sunday. New tires on Thursday. Wheel covers back on today. Ready to ride.
Bill
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8 hours ago, Ckerch said:
You don't by chance ( and I don't know what the correct name is) have a spring the goes into the door hinge to keep it open to the detents?
No, sorry I don't. Check in the back of the Riview. There are several vendors listed there selling 63-65 parts that could help you out.
Bill
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21 minutes ago, JZRIV said:
No its not Bill. Hose size is specified by ID. If it says 1/4", it will be 1/4 ID. When I was looking in 2016 no one made the 1/8" thin wall hose even just smooth let alone ribbed. I checked everywhere including Corvette and Chevy suppliers. Possible someone might make it now but don't know. The problem using 1/8 vacuum hose with the thicker wall on the 66/67 means larger OD and it does not fit in the clamps behind the cowl but I had no choice but to make it fit.
Hi Jason,
Thanks for that. After I read your post I went out to my car and managed to get my hand inside the fender and get the stubs of the old hoses off of the washer pump. The feeder line from the tank has an ID of 7/32" and the lines that feed the squirters measure 5/32" ID. That jives with the hoses that CARS, Inc. has listed. I have seen some ribbed hose kits advertised for Camaros and Firebirds. I will check to see what those hoses measure. You would think that the washer hoses and squirters would be the same for the GM cars of the era but, of course we know that things that would make sense to us weren't always done.
Bill
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Any ideas what motor is in my Riviera
in Buick Riviera
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