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About mtnchev

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  • Birthday 05/27/1939

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  1. Thanks guys. I knew someone on this forum would know about the truck. Larry
  2. At a cruise-in last Saturday I ran across a flatbed truck that was badged as a Ruggles. Looked to be about 1 1/2 capacity and a tag on the cowl said it was a 1929 model. I've never heard of a Ruggles truck before. Anyone know anything them? Sorry no picture, left it at home. Larry
  3. Buggirl: Dont give up on doing the vinyl if you like it that much. I have never come across a "kit' for replacing the vinyl, and in my opinion putting it on could be quite a hassle. However, if you decide you want one done, check with a signage company to see if they do the vinyl "wraps". some of these guys can do wonders on the trucks you see with all the advertising on it. If there is a source for woodgrain they may be able to a great job for you. Larry
  4. Another situation I remember at the Pontiac dealership was when an older gentlman brought his new car in, complaining that the car was making a peculiar noise. He said that he had brought the car in three times before and we were unable to find the problem. I asked him to describe the noise and he said that it would only make the noise when parked on a slope with the engine running. We took his car and drove to the back of the lot to where the pavement sloped up to a storage shed. He parked the car on the slope and said "hear that"? I couldn't hear anything unusual in the sound of the car
  5. I never heard of a woman who tried to use the dimmer switch on the column with her foot, but I had a somewhat similar thing happen. I was the service manager at a Pontiac dealership during the late 70s - early 80s, in which time a lot of car makers switched to the column mounted dimmer switch. One day a young lady brought her new Pontiac in with an unusal complaint. She said that the car had been sold to her without a bright button. I asked what a bright button was, and she said the lights got brighter when the bright button was pushed. I realized she was referring to a dimmer switch and
  6. I have a 1950 model and a 1956 model. The difference in the technology between the two is pretty amazing. I believe that the 1950 to1959 decade was one that produced the greatest improvement in cars. Both of these cars are daily drivers even though dealing with the lack of power steering and air conditioning, the vacuum wipers and the bias-ply tires on the 50 can be difficult. Larry
  7. Nick: If I remember correctly (I was a CPA about 2 lives ago) unless the cars were owned by a separate entity from you personally at the time of sale, they were considered as private assets. That means the gain or loss on the sale of each car would be the amount you got for that one car less the amount you paid for that one car. Gains from the sales of the cars was taxable, but any losses were not. A separate entity would be something like a trust or other organization. A separate comany would have the usual tax laws applied to the sale, and does allow depreciation to be deducted from
  8. Guys: I belive that the increase in engine size contributed to a major part of the 57's popularity. The 57 283 cu in engine would usually out perform the 265 cu in engines in the 55 and 56 (with all using the same options, 55 and 56 with 2 barrel carbs against the 57 2 barrel carb, 55 and 56 power pack engines vs. 57 power pack. etc). Many of the younger guys were really into the horsepower race at that time, so a 283 57 was more desireable than the 265 55s and 56s, regardless of the styling. Personally I too like the 56 better. Larry
  9. Michael: Looks like you got a lot of answers for one question. Each of those answers make one or more valid points. My advice is to really look at every part of the car, including the underneath, and list every imperfection that you find that could affect the appearance of the car when it is finished the way you want it. Be critical, think like a buyer instead of an owner. If you have friends interested in older cars and have some automotive experience (especially in the body and paint area) they can be a greal help in finding the problem areas (everybody likes to point out problems in som
  10. Zipdang: I agree with all the above answers - get quotes from a few sources, check the platers reputation and what the other forum member say, and compare prices including shipping. I wouldn't worry about hexavalent vs. triavalent, my understanding is that most of the platers are going to trivalent because hexavalent is more active chemically than trivalent, making it harder to remove from the waste water, thus harder to keep on the right side of the EPA and state regulations. Trivalent plates a little slower, taking more time to reach the desired thickness. Larry
  11. Guys, there is one thing that should be kept in mind when pouring any fluid into a running engine: that fluids are not compressable. The effective compression in an engine can be raised to dangerous levels by dumping water in the carburetor while running. I've seen several head gaskets blown by doing this, one blew a piece of the gasket completely out of the engine. Older cars used lower compression levels and may not be so likely to have problems, but some cars in the 70s have compression levels high enough to cause concern. Properly metered, water injected into an engine can
  12. A little farther up in TN (in Elizabethton, a little south of Johnson City) is Tri-City Plating. They did a great job on my bumpers and grill and the price was reasonable. Larry
  13. Years ago a friend worked for a battery rebuilding service. They made their money by selling "rebuilt" batteries cheaply and rebuilding the old battery core that the purchaser of the rebuilt battery turned in. (If you didn't have a core to turn in they charged you 50% more.) My friend told me that they rebuilt the batteries by pouring the old acid out, dropping the battery about 3 times from a distance of about a foot onto a concrete pad. They then used a pressured water "jet" on a small wand to wash out each cell and let the battery sit upside down for several hours to dry out, then refil
  14. 64 LeSabre: I would try very hard to get a key made that fits the ignition and the doors before replacing the door lock cylinders. It can be somewhat difficult and you run the risk of damaging the paint on the doors. If you can take the ignition lock out of the dash, you could take it to a locksmith and get the key made. It will be more expensive that just making a key, but it may be well worth it. Back in my day, GM dealers could make ignition keys from the numbers on the glove box lock cylinder. You might call a dealer and see if they can do this with your car. I've used this meth
  15. In the early '70s I drove a 1964 Taunus (not Taurus), which was a German Ford, a small 4 cylinder car. I've also had some uncommon models of common makes such as a Fiat X19 (body by Bertone), a 1968 BMW 1800TI (a 4 cylinder, 2 carburetored 4 door sedan, I believe one won a class in the European Hill Climb Championship about 1966 or 7), a Fiat 750 (basically a 600 but with suspension and engine by Abarth), and a 1966 Datsun 1600 roadster. None of these were very expensive, but offered good performance at reasonable prices. I enjoyed them all. Larry
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