Alan Cutler

I have been scratching my head to figure out how he is able to paint and assemble so fast....I referenced several of my Hardbound Encyclopedia Britannica's, and the Interwebs (if it is written, it must be true), and I have come to the realization, they are so fast because they are always a day ahead of us in the States...Cheers Mate(s), Happy New Year to those Down Under! (Since your a day ahead, DM over those lottery numbers, please😂)

www.Uship.com No endorsement, but have used successfully many times.

I always do mine wheels on, on the ground....be sure to run a tape measure on axel height from ground and center hub to center hub front to back prior and after....if too late on prior be sure to do it after....need to make sure the axle is running true, prior to cinching down. (or as close to it, without a frame bender)

I took a ruler to mine at the center point of each spring on the bottom to the floor....had to replace all 4 corners, I had more than 1" diff from each corner, but I'm a bit extreme.

Hi Bob, springs are heat treated, If this was mine, I would not be comfortable building up and reaming it... Safety first, therefore I would replace.

We do the same, balance from pully to plates...however, Mattml430 did not mention a rebalance and only mentioned the weight reduction, therefore, my comment about harmonization...he will loss the original balance and may have additional vibration after the weight reduction if not rebalanced to that engines particular set up...

I was thinking gyroscopic effects and harmonization will be lost...causing both faster engine speed and slow down, along with more pronounced vibration.

Sherman & Dave...beautiful fall colors and nice B&W...wish we saw colors like that in SoCal....instead we now have smoke, ash and orange sky's...

Just a FYI, the Aluminum color is the option I chose for a '38. This takes up to 700 degrees F. https://www.hirschauto.com/Engine-Enamels/departments/2/

Memory not as good as it used to be...its tight but can be done....I used long needle nose pliers

Hand attached to the bearing side, then use a pair of needle nose pliers to slip on the housing hole...shouldn't be tight at all, this is standard replacement part and would have been designed to come off while under a lift or the floor, without removing any other parts...with the correctly sized spring should fit right up. I am assuming your doing this with gear box and flywheel separated, as presented in your photo.

Fits many applications. Is very easy to slip on, when its the correct part. CC-747 Throw out bearing pull back spring

Hi Touring, would be willing to share? acutler11@att.net

Very well, my knowledge base does not go earlier than '36...I have never seen a factory installed '36-'38...only dealer and aftermarket...thank you for educating me Dave.

Thanks Tom...stay safe over there.

They were not options from the factory, however the engine would have a plug in the head, that could be taken out and replaced with a elbow bib and attached to a heater core installed under the dash, all after market or dealer installed. Perhaps the '31 did not have that....🤷‍♂️

Henry, I do not see a heater hose bib or plug, on the head, could it be located somewhere else on the block? Also never thought about it, but with your worm gear (steering box) on our (US) passenger side, being so close to the manifolds and fuel pump, was there any space for a hand to fit?

Well that's one of those, "kick yer self in the butt" moments...I would have never thought of it...been fighting Banjo bolts for years!

To be fair, yours is '32 and mine is a '38, and yours has a few more Cwts than mine (maybe)?

I have not seen a factory installed unit, only ones I've seen have been dealer installed or after market, like the one below. Also US horns are a bit different...and they mount on the top US drivers side two rear head bolts.

This? Looks to me like a factory (UK) installed oil filter.

Great stuff Henry, Cwt? Chassis Weight?

I am kicking myself in the butt for not thinking of the Fuel tank spinner idea, in a cement mixer...brilliant!

There are many opinions here, but from my experience, leather seals do not work well with synthetic.

On your diff is the pinion seal/sleeve leather or rubber?