Tom Boehm

I responded to your other post. Can you please measure how tall this part is and respond?

According to the Cadillac Master Parts List 1935-1949 that part is the rear bumper guard for 1940 Lasalle 50 series sedan 5019 and 5011, and convertible sedan 5029. It is also the rear bumper guard for the 1940 Lasalle series 50 commercial chassis after engine number 2327588. Can you respond with a measurement of how tall this part is. I have a 1940 Lasalle. Some '40 50 series Lasalles have two different bumper guards, short and tall. This could tell me which goes on the front and which on the back. Thank you

Hand Clinchers Rivet Tool | Hanson Rivet I made a link to a tool to reproduce the factory rivet style. Pop rivets sound like a good idea too. Thanks for the reply from someone who has done it before.

Has anyone changed the shaft on a prewar GM window crank mechanism? The shaft the chrome window crank handle attaches to. My car was missing some regulators. I found identical replacements except for the length of the shafts. I have others that have the right size shafts. I want to do a transplant. It is held on with three rivets that could be drilled out. Is there a tool available to replace the rivets?

The 1939 Cadillac is a 75 series.

Keiser, what is a $+& ? Sounds like you don't like whatever car that is.

Also look at the differences in the radiator between the red 32 in the picture and the OP picture.

To expand on the response of the previous poster, Eastwood sells a spray can of "stamped steel" color for non cast iron steel parts. Seymour might have this color also. I have seen high heat versions of cast iron color also for exhaust manifolds. Sometimes I use a spray can clear coat on parts that came from the factory bare steel.

1931 Cadillac 5 passenger coupe.

That is a 1939 Cadillac.

Or you could buy a Ford Explorer and add wood to it if you want a modern driving experience. That would be easier and less expensive. Sometimes I think people make this stuff up and post it to get a rise out of the purists on this forum.

"The more time you get into a piece the more costly a mistake becomes" is very true. That "measure twice cut once" adage comes into play here. I have had the router slip on the last step of a piece. I have also lost my concentration and routered in the wrong place on the last step of a piece. Is that another Town and Country in the background?

G.W, you should post your questions on the www.forabodiesonly.com forum. Those guys really know those Mopar cars inside and out. They are not reluctant to modify their cars there either. There is a section for pre 1967 A body Mopars. They were a big help to me when I got my 1973 Dart back on the road. I kept mine 100% stock. That was a rarity on that forum.

You can post your questions on the Cadillac and Lasalle club website forum. cadillaclasalleclub.org. The 1941 Cadillac remains a very popular car on the CLC forum.

Are you talking about the shift linkage or the clutch linkage or both?

I have a 1973 Dodge Dart Swinger. It had a vibration between 40 and 50 MPH that I suspected was a tire(s) out of balance. Two tire shops refused to balance the tires. The first said my tires were over six years old and they are not allowed to work with them.(he said this just seeing my car out the window) The second said they did not want to risk damage to the stock rally wheels on my car. (she said this seeing my car out the window). The third shop did it while I waited and only charged me $23.00 for about an hours work. This actually did get rid of the vibration ! ! I called them back and thanked them for the successful job. What is going on here? Balancing tires is the most simple thing they do next to putting air in. I have had several experiences lately with poor service at car repair places with my modern cars. They are getting really picky as to what they want to do. Stuff that was routine just a few years ago.

Finally some progress again! I want the seats to be ready when I finish the doors sometime this summer so I can drive the car. I took a break from the doors to prepare the wood seat frames for the upholsterer. This car had three seats originally. I have two original seats but the middle row was missing. I replaced the ends on the front and back seats as well as other minor repairs. (plugging some screw holes so new screws would hold tight.) I had to make the middle seat frame from scratch based on the dimensions and design of the other two. The middle seat is narrow to provide access to the third row. This seat is shown in the middle picture in bare ash and in the third picture finished with the sheet metal strips like the other two. (I used 87 flat head slotted wood screws in the middle seat.) The upholsterer will supply missing springs for the bottom of the front seat and the back and bottom of the middle seat. I made arrangements to deliver all three to the upholsterer next week. So I hope sometime this summer I will have doors and seats!

1960 Chevrolet Biscayne. It took me a moment to figure out the car is upside down.

Hello Alec, do you have woodworking experience? I am reproducing the wood body on my 1940 Lasalle 100%. Before I got the car I had some woodworking experience but I did not have nearly all the skills necessary to do a woodie. I made stuff with an 8" table saw and a router. To do the Lasalle I acquired a bigger table saw, a planer, a jointer, and a band saw. I took classes at Woodcraft to learn how to use them. I watched Norm Abram on the New Yankee Workshop on PBS for years till it wasn't on anymore. I'm not finished yet but I am very happy with the results. I have a high standard in mind and I will figure out a way to achieve it.

Hello Alec, how much woodwork repair does your car need and are you considering doing it yourself?

The long one on the bottom is from a 1949 Ford but it is missing 2 pieces. A chrome circle goes on the left in the crescent shaped niche and a clear plastic arc behind it.

I just encountered some rusty stuck wood screws in a wooden seat frame. I used a Craftsman screwdriver with the square shaft. I used a wrench on the square shaft to give me extra leverage while I leaned on the handle. That helped a lot.

I'm sure "NewOldWood" will comment with first hand knowledge. But, there is a story in the latest issue of the Woodie Times about the differences in construction in the Ford Sportsman and the post war Chrysler Town and Country. The Ford had a metal structure under the wood and the Chrysler was all wood, like we see in this '41/'42.

A sincere thank you for the complement from a pro.

I assume you finished the boat? I know of at least three you have completed while I am still plugging away at the doors on mine.