Tom Boehm

I bet that Baldor grinder does not vibrate.

I decided to try to fix the grinder I have. I ordered new Norton Gemini grinding wheels. I also watched several Youtube videos on this subject where the problem with low end grinders is diagnosed as the wheel not being supported enough by the stamped steel flanges. These are the large dish shaped washers on both sides of the grinding wheel. The remedy is a set of thicker machined aluminum flanges that hold the grinding wheels perpendicular to the shaft. I ordered a set of these. I will report back in a week or two if this worked.

I don't have a specific answer for you but those sound like upholstery tacks. Also did you look at a local hardware store like Ace?

My bench grinder is about a 20 year old Craftsman made in china. I am tired of tolerating the excessive vibration. It is almost unuseable. You Tube videos suggest the problem is the wheels are out of balance. The balancing process is trial and error and takes time. The devices to help balance the wheels cost as much as a new grinder. What is the solution? 1. New grinder? will a better quality grinder come balanced out of the box? Is that a Dewalt or a Baldor? or whatever? 2.New Wheels? Do better quality wheels (Norton?) come pre balanced ready to install? Is there a solution to make this Craftsman smooth? I never thought there was this much tuning involved in a simple bench grinder. Do they all need to be balanced? For a long time I just assumed mine was low quality. Not specifically a car question but I know others have dealt with this.

Good advice from SC38dls. Don't store the infested seat in the same building with other wooden items you do not want infested. I acquired a powder post beetle problem with some infested rough lumber. When I figured out the problem I got rid of the infested wood. I treated other good lumber having just a few holes with Tim Bor. It worked. I did not want the bugs hopping over to my good lumber. I varnished some of my good rough lumber also to prevent infestation. My understanding is that Tim Bor has low toxicity relative to insecticides in general. Darn the bugs not wood body cars! The lumber mentioned above was ash destined for my woodie station wagon.

And I thought I was always the most detail oriented, pickiest guy in the room. That is extreme. I'm glad you took it in a good way.

That is interesting also. There is a little competition built into the rules.

Phillip, thank you for your post. That answers my question. That is very interesting. Because the Cadillac and Lasalle Club is a one/two marque club, they have gone about that situation the opposite way. The Club publishes Authenticity Manuals for each class. These are written by volunteer club members who have experience with cars in that class. They use factory period published information as reference. This is a big help to restorers and judges.

After skimming through the AACA Judging Guidelines it seems there can be multiple first place awards at one time. I always wondered how judges in the AACA can have knowledge of authenticity of so many classes. Some cars are rare and there may not be a lot of people out there to judge who know what is correct for them. I have judged a few times for the Cadillac Club and even for one make it is hard to get judges who know all the authenticity details.

Hello All, I am not an AACA member. I am a member of the Cadillac and Lasalle Club. Their judging standard to strive for is the condition and authenticity of the car the day it left the dealership. Awards are issued according to score; so there can be more than one first place. What is the judging standard of the AACA? Are awards issued according to score or only to the highest score? I am just curious. No controversy.

Thanks for posting this thread. I'm learning so much about how the "other woodies" are put together. I always have a question: How did you decide on the green color to paint the inside of the boat?

I'm not sure which part you are looking for but Restoration Specialties has lots of what I think you are looking for.

There is another episode where Wally buys a rusty 1936 Ford to restore. June freaks out because the rusty car looks bad in front of her perfect house. What will the neighbors think? She makes Ward make Wally get rid of it. What a witch.

Epifanes would work fine but for the inside of your doors I think Minwax Helmsman from Home Depot or the hardware store would suffice. It is locally available and a lot less expensive. The purpose is just to seal the inside against moisture. It will never get UV sunlight or weather inside the door.

These companies will reproduce the factory original rubber on your car. The problem here is that they need the original to reproduce. www.runningboardrubber.com www.runningboardrubbermats.com

I looked it up in the book "Lasalle: Cadillac's Companion Car". The emblem at the top is from a 1937 Lasalle. It is a reasonable assumption the grille is too. 1937 and 1938 Lasalle grills look the same but are not the same dimensions. The logo is different from 1937 to 1938 also. To be certain, post on the Cadillac and Lasalle Club forum with dimensions. Someone there will know the difference. If you think the grill on Ebay is expensive, check out the price on having that rechromed. A grill in pretty good shape like that one will seem like a bargain.

I brush mine on like you. I use an oxhair brush available from Purdy and Corona. I am happy with the results but it is not spray quality like the cars with automotive clear coat on it.

My opinion is that the only way I would make a hole in the cowl is if I were able to find a correct antenna for your car, just like what came on it from the factory. I would not make a hole for anything else. You might be able to get an aftermarket antenna for $8.00 to work but it will stand out if it mounts to the inside of the windshield. I think your best option is to stretch wire under the car or running boards. Your 1941 Olds probably does not have runningboards. I have a 1940 Lasalle.

Post on the Cadillac and Lasalle Club website forum. There are guys over there that know this engine well.

How do you know it is valuable if you don't even know what it came from? How valuable is it?

I guess it is safe to say that none of the 5 people who follow this woodie forum has heard of Le Tonkinois. It is a tung oil/linseed oil varnish made in France. It does not contain petroleum solvents. The oils are highly refined instead. It dries to an amber film just like spar varnish with mineral spirits. It is a good choice if you want to limit your exposure to fumes. In my durability tests, it came in second to name brand marine spar varnishes like Pettit Flagship and Epifanes. I think Le Tonkinois would provide adequate protection for a woodie because it spends so much time in the garage. The Le Tonkinois was the most self leveling of all I tried. There are two versions, Original and an improved one called No.1. Here is info and a source www.tarsmell.com and www.letonkinoisvarnish.uk

The screws look fine but I really like the color on what appears to be original wood.

Tom, I don't think there is a right or wrong answer to your question. If a 3/4" screw holds tight then it is OK. I would probably take a small drill bit and make the hole deeper for a 1" screw. 46, I knew soap was not good but I did not know wax did the same thing.

For "thread lubricant" I use an ancient piece of beeswax that was in with my Grandpa's tools. I rub the threads over it and the screws go in easier. People may use the wrong size screw for a repair just because that is what they have laying around. Have you guys even heard of Le Tonkinois varnish? It is a tung/linseed oil varnish that does not have solvents in it. Made in France. I wrote and submitted to Roddy my story on varnish today. I was procrastinating something else.

6 volt systems need to have all the electrical connections on the battery cables and the ground straps clean of rust, dirt, and paint.