filozof97

Hello; I'm looking for one of these thin metal c-shaped rails, used to attach weatherstripping to the pillar, and, in my case, also to the convertible top frame. They seem to be a universal product, sold by the meter, used to attach rubber in many different cars... but I don't know how is it called and where to look for it. Any ideas?

That's what I thought after posting problem here; I'll look tomorrow how hard is to get gear removed, and then will check it for wear.

Hello; I've got really, really strange issue with speedometer in my '53 Mercedes - Benz 300. When I'm accelerating, speedometer stands at zero. When I press the clutch down, it goes up to actual speed. Same happens when I rapidly take my foot off the gas pedal. When I'm driving at steady speed, it's random - sometimes zero, sometimes actual speed, sometimes slighly reduced speed, sometimes something like 20 km/h at 100 km/h. I've disconnected cable from the speedo, to see if the problem is in speedometer or in cable. When accelerating etc. cable does not move, so speedo is O.K. I've changed speedometer cable for a new, custom made one. Nothing has changed. Put some rubber hose over it, as I thought it's bending in where it passes in beetween frame and body, while engine moves on its mounts. Nothing has changed. I have absolutely no idea what to do next. Any ideas?

Thank You for all responses; I asked the friend, who asked the friend etc.

Hello; I'm going to buy a classic car in St. Louis area; the car seems fine, and seller too, but before transfering money on the other side of the Ocean, I'd like to check if it's not scam. Just somebody to meet with seller and see if the car actually exists. I suppose that there are some companies which specialize in it, but in fact - I don't even know where to start looking for. Any clues?

Well, I've photographed classic cars with old cameras a lot, then developing pictures in darkroom in my basement; sometimes even using expired, 1970s photographic paper. I've used 35 mm "Praktica" and "Zorki", and medium format "Agfa Isolette", "Rolleiflex" and "Kiev 6C" and even made few 8mm movies; though, I''ve never tried to "make - up" the past. What about the medium - format film, Kodak cameras used 620 type, which is no longer manufactured; the film is identical to common and still aviable 120 film, but the spool is different. Some cameras can be machined to use 120 film, some are too small. Just buy non - Kodak camera, as almost every other manufacturer used 120 film, even back in early 1900s. IMO, if You want a real 30s - technology camera which would be cheap and work without any repairs, You can buy any of soviet rangefinders, as they were manufactured up to early 90s, without major changes - 50 € would get you nice Zorki, Fed or Kiev. With medium format is a little harder (I mean - more expensive); I've bought my 1934 Rolleiflex for about 200 €. Bellow - type cameras are generally cheaper, but most of them don't have rangefinder, so focusing is a bit tricky, as You have to guess the distance and set it on the meter scale. They were made up to late 50s, so getting one with non - pinholed bellow is possible; if there are some minor holes, You can always patch them with solution of black ink in bookbinding glue. Another story is lightmeter - You simply got to have one. Old, self - feeding selenium type are almost always broken (diffusion of thin gold layer on surface of selenium cells), so You have to go with more modern, CdS type (more expensive ones from 60s onwards). Or... just install app on Your mobile phone. Of course, You can always perform a 1930s newsreel and buy a Graflex Speed Graphic. What is most important - as every possible hobby, it takes time. A lot of time (and a little skill). So make sure, that You have time for both classic cars and photography. It's almost impossible to get the "look" of photographs taken on film using digital camera - silver halide gives You plenty of shades of gray, having greater tone range than any digital sensor; You'd see it especially in lightest parts of image, which on digital photographs are often "burnt". So, what's the point? Probably the same as driving a 80 years old car - fun. Attached photographs: Group of cars on the roadside - Praktica MTL; Packard and Warszawa with people - Praktica MTL; Ford T - Zorki 4; Packard on the wooden bridge - Rolleiflex "Old Standard"; Volga in the dark - Kiev 6C; Mercury - Kiev 6C.

Major Russian motor industry began in late 20s, when GAZ (Car factory in Gorki) was founded, and they first model was GAZ - A, simply licensed version of Ford model A. Also, factory was actually built by Ford, even some American workers left USA during Great Depression to work in GAZ factory. Of course, there were Russian cars before, such as Russo - Balt, but it wasn't mass production, as there were nor industrial capabilities nor real demand before forced industralization in Stalin's era. Gaz A was quicly replaced by GAZ - M1, based on 1934 Ford and designed in cooperation with Ford. Another factory, ZiS, produced trucks and luxury automobiles - most of them of Russian construction, but highly influenced by American designs. Another example of such influence is Mopar Flathead Six engine, which was copied in Russia to power trucks, then shortened by two cylinders to power passenger cars, then licensed to Poland, then converted to OHV and manufactured till late 90s. Those Russian pre - war cars are extremally rare nowdays - not many of them were produced and most of them was destroyed during the war. Scarce of automobiles also meant that existing ones would be used as long as possible, lacking spare parts and being repaired with those aviable (I've posted some time ago photographs of pre - war Willys after such repairs). Even nowdays You can sometimes find on Russian or Ukrainian websites abominations such as pre - war Tatra (air cooled rear engine) converted to use Volga's drivetrain. As far as I know, imports of cars to Soviet Union was minimal, with few minor exceptions. First, cars imported as a examples of foreign technology, design patterns - they were not scrapped, but simply used. Just after WWII many captured cars were taken home by Red Army officers and some were leftovers from diplomatic agendas. And, of course, lend&lease. You may wonder why Russian cars were based on American designs. There were two reasons: first, both countries are simillar by natural conditions - large, with low population density, every possible climate, lacking roads and having plenty of natural resources - so machines used to fight those inconveniences ought to be similar. Another reason is that the american motor industry was simply the best and biggest in the world - and whole America was set as an example, a target to achieve by Soviet Union before Cold War. Even today You can see flashback of Stalin - Ford contract from 1920s. Handbrake lever in UAZ - Classic, a 4x4 van which is still produced is the same as in Ford model A.

No, they don't. But the same way as any motor company in the world, they probably bought examples of other cars, to copy some of the engineering, to see it's pros and cons. They finally made GAZ M-20 Pobieda, which's motor was close relative to Chrysler Flathead Six, front suspension was very simillar to that of Opel Kapitan, styling of dashboard was clearly 40s GM etc. That Willys surely ended up in Russia when it was new, and then, well.. it was used for many years, being rear - ended sometime. The trunk was too small, spare parts - non existent, so using the opportunity, it was enlarged. Typical story in places when getting new car is very hard or impossible, same story in Cuba. In front end I see grille and headlights trim from Volga M-21, wheels look "Volgish" too. Rear lights seems to be of late Moskwicz.

As downloading from Instagram is impossible, I've made screenshots.

Hello; I wonder if the 1937 - 1942 Willys was ever sold outside US? I especially mean in Europe. Why am I asking? Becouse I found photographs of something that once was a Willys, taken somwhere in Russia. And I have absolutely no idea how did that car ended up in Soviet Union. It's clearly too old for Lend - Lease help, so there are only two or three possibilities: - Car of american embassy in Moscow or some other diplomatic corps (but... would they really use cheapest of the cheapest?) - Bought by one of car factories, such as GAZ or KIM, as an example of world - leading design, thus valuable as a pattern And, most possible - war trophy, taken from Germany after the war So... were they exported? Or maybe You have ideas how this car get to Soviet Union?

Thanks for all replies; I'd like to ask one more thing. If the car is equipped with combination fuel - vacuum pump, should it be connected directly to wiper motor etc. or should it be connected, using tee - joint to the manifold vacuum line and wiper motor?

Hello. I've been wondering what in old cars was actually vacuum - powered. I know about vacuum wipers, vacuum operated pop - up headlights, vacuum operated convertbile tops in 40s convertibles, vacuum operated wiper doors in Corvette C3, vacuum gearshift control in 1938 Chevrolet. Was there anything else?

They are not speed limits. It has something to do with maximum load of bridges etc.- different for wheeled vehicles, different for tracked ones. Two arrows mean traffic in two directions, one - in one direction. Fence means railroad crossing with gates, while traffic sign with choo choo means crossing with no gates.

If one or two teeth are broken, it's easy to repair without making a new gear. I did it with my 120's vent. First of all, drill tiny holes in place of broken teeths. Then put tiny nails in it, bend it 90 degrees and glue/cover with epoxy "welding" glue. When glue dries, simply file it to required shape.

That was actually pretty common practice in eastern bloc countries, but done not with bumpers, but with rocker panels. As all these cars - Fiat 126p, 125p, Ladas etc. rusted quickly, spare panels were on the scarce and waiting time for a new car was from eight to eighteen years, some people cuted small hole in top of the rusting rocker panel and filled it with concrete. Imagine tiny , 24 hp Fiat with extra 100 kg of concrete in it. Daemon of speed.

Two ice scrapers from late 50s/early 60s - one with ad from local insurance agency, one with some tyre ad (Dunlop?). Some kind of circular military air calculator - probably from 50s. Car came from Wyoming, so it's not so unusual. Both in 1953 Benz. Old soviet medal, " ударник XI пятилетни" - work leader of 11th five years plan. Obviously, in 1966 Volga. Also peroid first aid kit, owners manual with average fuel consumption calculations on inside of cover; service manual. Soviet pornographic magazine with very strange content, probably from 70s or 80s in glovebox of my friend's 1970 Skoda 100. In every US car - beverage can pull-tabs. A lot of them. It's not classic, but my uncle once bought 2001 Skoda Fabia from old doctor with tons of documentation - bill of sale, bills for all spendings on the car - fuel, bulbs, filters, oil, repairs wiper blades etc. from ten years. In glovebox was a notebook, in which every ride was precisely noted - such as "Church, 21 XI 2002, 2.1 km, 10121 km, back home - 2.1 km, 10123 cementary,22 XI 2002 - 5.6 km, 10129, back home, 5.6 km, 10136km ambulatory, 23 XI 2002, 3 km..." etc. - and that for 50 000 km, for ten years!

From the other side. I bought few cars in US and got them transported to Europe. Always wired the money to seller, and then organised company to pick the car at his location and move it to port. Making money transfer in port seems "a little" strange to me.

Hello; I've just started wondering. In early 80s, BMC made Triumph Acclaim - mostly badge engineered Honda Accord. It's history ended in 1984. Five years after that, Chrysler launched Plymouth Acclaim. All we know stories similar to that about Peugeot, Porsche and 901. Were there any legal issues with Plymouth Acclaim? I know that by 1989 BMC was non-existent company, but British Aerospace held it's derivatives.

My mom had one, '68 in late 90s/ early 00s. I remember that it was incredibly loud. I remember that it was quite often broken. And I also remember, that my dad found a wasp nest in the garage. As removing it could be quite dangerous, he decided to gas the insects - he left the motor running for 3 hours in a closed garage. Once, my mom took the car to go to the hospital in another town, for a night shift. She refueled the car, drove about 3 km from the station and the car has stalled. Nothing unusual with that bug. Dad came on the motorcycle - inspected the VW and everything seemed fine. Then, he connected the Beetle's fuel line to the carb of his bike. Started the motor... and in around 30 seconds the motor stalled. Now, that's the fuel quality!

That's quite possible; also, removing old upholstery could not be as easy as it seems - some places may be glued, also you risk tearing the cloth. The thread can be weak, and got destroyd in washing maschine. The covers may consist of few types of fabric - one could shrink more, another may shrink less. (That's the reason why You can wash suit's trousers in water, but You can not wash the vest or jacket.) If you still decide to do it, handwash in about 20 degrees - especially warm, but sometimes very cold water can cause shrinking. Don't let them dry completly - put them back partially wet. Recently, I cleaned light brown wool upholstery in '53 Benz, some places were even stained with motor oil. At first, I used typical carpet cleaning solution (Vanish or sth) and washing vacuum cleaner. It removed most of the dirt. At second - washing powder dissolved in some warm water, sponge and a rice brush. Then - car cleaning foam, "Prestone" seems to be the best. Then - clean water, about two or three times. What's important, You should avoid soaking the whole seat. The springs & other internal, metal parts of seats are probably rusted so it can end with removing the dirt, but adding rusty marks on upholstery.

I don't think that they are crap... Of course, there are better cars, most of cars are better than Yugo - but they are not bad. Much better than many of eastern bloc cars - better than Dacia, better than Trabant, probably better than Tavria. Last time when I was in Croatia (2014), it was quite common car - often seen in quite good condition. The warm climate of southern Europe may have something in common with it. Also, guy in my neighborhood has one, nicely restored. The reason for Yugo not being a classic is it's market positioning. It was simply a shopping trolley, an household appilance. Triggering simillar amount of emotions as dishwasher. Thrown away after getting used. Same thing as Dacia Sandero or Fiat Panda today. Cheap cars are not the cars that young boys are dreaming of, so they don't buy them as grown-ups. Cheap cars are not becoming classics - maybe sometimes, when the model is very popular, and during the production run is a part of popular culture - such as Volkswagen, Fiat 500, Citroen 2CV, Morris Mini. Or Renault Twingo. But who remembers the Peugeot 104 or Lloyd 400?

No, the tires are not subsidied... I don't think that any consumer product is subsided. In fact, the only "gift" from the government I get for driving classic is the lack of mandatory, yearly technical inspection. I've got it inspected once, and forever. What's the reason of cheapness of Maxis tires? Well, I remember when they has shown on market - being advertised as a affordable tire with white stripe. For the set I bought in ~~ 2014 I paid around 300 € or even less - that's simillar to my modern automobile. Also, as press says, those tires were designed for best possible stopping distance and for slow aging - in favour of tire wear. So, why they are cheap? Mass production, causing low price, causing high sales volume, letting mass production... Unification with other tires from the same factory - thread pattern looks modern and probably is the same as in "normal" Maxis tires. About those wheels to Germany - I heard that their pre - registration inspection of classic car is really strict, and such thing as custom wheels would probably disqualify car from getting classic status. But that's the words I heard... Germans are known for abiding the law, Poles... Poles are slighly different

I also use Maxis MA-1 on my 71 Cougar, in Poland. But I also have other car, still on tires from USA - and didn't have any problem with it. I'll look tomorrow, if they have any ECE sign. I know a lot of guys who are driving new, or modern car or motorbikes imported directly from US - they changed the lights, noone even thoguht about tires. I fact, I hear about it for the first time.

How does it work?

I knew about other methods of preventing rusting of enclosed structures, such as frames, rocker panels, lower parts of doors etc. Using only oil is a bad idea, because it's too thin and will quickly get out of the structure. Rather, using heated mixture of engine oil and Tovotte grease was advised by friend of mine, who's father owned an automotive rust protection shop in early 90's. There are also special products for conservation of such parts; wax based and non - wax based. Both avialable as a spray or in cans; some of the wax based needs to be heated. And that's probably the best protection possible, as it is used by car manufacturers as a standard. Sometimes, leaving car in direct sun may cause it to start getting out through the drains; it's easiest to see on 80s VW (mostly Golf). Non-wax based are worse - the protection level is simillar, but they smell awfully, and give "dirty" appearance of all surfaces they are used on. Protecting the outer surfaces is another thing; the best idea is using some bitumine - based products (here are called "Bitex", but I'm sure that something simillar is possible to buy in US), which leaves thick layer of black protection. It also isolates noise a little. Most important about it is that it closes all minor holes, cracks and connections - all these easy rusting places, such as trim mounts, connection of fender to body etc.